Engine mount sensor fault

[paul_23]

Hi

Just had the RS6 engine out for a new torque converter and it is back in now but the following fault is recorded

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P1577 - 004 - No Signal/Communication

Anyone have experience of this - what is the problem and is it due to them crushing something or breaking something while fitting the engine?

Now the engine is back in what is involved to sort it out?

Thanks

[hahnmgh63]

I skimmed through ETKA and couldn't find a sensor on the mounting system but obviously there must be one there. I have my car on the lift in the shop and it is fairly hard to see the mounts even from the bottom but I'll take a look and post if I see anything obvious.

[vangelis]

YES, The engine mounting has a sensor and it seems they (or one of them) got broken while they fitting your engine. I have the same problem and I just bought 2 engine mountings from ebay for 100$ each.

[hahnmgh63]

I took a look at it on the lift and Vangelis is correct, both sides have a sensor which appears to be integral with the mount. They must have either forgotten to hook the sensor up after the install or broke off the plug portion that sticks out. It is easy to see with the plastic belly pan off the car. It is close to, and just below the base of the oil cooler or about 6"/15cm towards the inside of the car from the lower right side intercooler inlet. I think a good mechanic could install it without too much trouble by slightly lifting the engine and unbolting some oil lines and other pieces around it. Maybe you'll get luck and find that they just forgot to plug the connector after the install. The part # for the right side engine mount is 4B3199379D and costs about $200 here in the U.S. from the dealer. Sounds like Vangelis said, Ebay may be a good choice if they are OEM.

[paul_23]

Thanks.

The cheif mechanic is reviewing the problem and will judge if they do it at their cost or mine!

[vangelis]

The part # for the right side engine mount is 4B3199379D and costs about $200 here in the U.S. from the dealer. Sounds like Vangelis said, Ebay may be a good choice if they are OEM.

Hi, I need to get two engine mounts and I found it on eBay UK but I want to confirm first whether right and left side are the same and have the same part# 4B3199379D or not?

Thanks

[hahnmgh63]

My Etka says:
<TABLE border=0 cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width="100%"><TBODY><TR><TD style="BORDER-TOP: #b4baad 0px solid" bgColor=#d7dbd3><TABLE border=0 cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%" bgColor=#e1e1e1><TBODY><TR><TD style="BORDER-TOP: #b4baad 1px solid; BORDER-RIGHT: #b4baad 1px solid" width=50 align=middle>6</TD><TD style="BORDER-TOP: #b4baad 1px solid"><NOBR>4B3199379C (http://javascript<b></b>:;)</NOBR></TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>


</TD><TD style="BORDER-TOP: #b4baad 1px solid"></TD></TR><TR><TD bgColor=#e1e1e1></TD><TD></TD></TR><TR><TD style="BORDER-TOP: #b4baad 0px solid" bgColor=#e1e1e1>hydro-mounting / F >> 4B-4-901 499*
right / <TABLE border=0 cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%" bgColor=#d7dbd3><TBODY><TR><TD style="BORDER-TOP: #b4baad 1px solid; BORDER-RIGHT: #b4baad 1px solid" width=50 align=middle>(6)</TD><TD style="BORDER-TOP: #b4baad 1px solid"><NOBR>4B3199379D (http://javascript<b></b>:;)</NOBR></TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>


</TD><TD style="BORDER-TOP: #b4baad 1px solid"></TD></TR><TR><TD bgColor=#d7dbd3></TD><TD></TD></TR><TR><TD style="BORDER-TOP: #b4baad 0px solid" bgColor=#d7dbd3>hydro-mounting / F 4B-4-901 500>>


</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
and:
<TABLE border=0 cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width="100%"><TBODY><TR><TD style="BORDER-TOP: #b4baad 0px solid" bgColor=#e1e1e1><TABLE border=0 cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=1 width="100%" bgColor=#d7dbd3><TBODY><TR><TD style="BORDER-TOP: #b4baad 1px solid; BORDER-RIGHT: #b4baad 1px solid" width=50 align=middle>3</TD><TD style="BORDER-TOP: #b4baad 1px solid"><NOBR>4B3199379B (http://javascript<b></b>:;)</NOBR></TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>


</TD><TD style="BORDER-TOP: #b4baad 1px solid"></TD></TR><TR><TD style="BORDER-TOP: #b4baad 0px solid" bgColor=#d7dbd3>hydro-mounting
left /

</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
Not sure why the difference for the Right side. But when I put either right side # into the parts system it comes up with 4B3199379M and the left side comes up as 4B3199379J so both must have been superseded, at least in N. America.

[vangelis]

Thanks a lot hahnmgh63 for the info. but I'm confused now, is that means I can use in both sides part# 4B3199379D or not?

[hahnmgh63]

No, part# 4B3199379D is still only for the right side it just appears there may be a newer part out there. Maybe improved? Maybe not? Only Audi will know but they did supersede the part # with a new suffix. The one on my car is a "C" suffix so they must have changed it a couple of times over the years.

[vangelis]

No, part# 4B3199379D is still only for the right side it just appears there may be a newer part out there. Maybe improved? Maybe not? Only Audi will know but they did supersede the part # with a new suffix. The one on my car is a "C" suffix so they must have changed it a couple of times over the years.

Thanks, appreciate your help man. I will go to dealer morning and I will check with the parts dep. and update you here.

[RS6Steve]

I believe the mount sensors are an engine protection device. If you over torque the engine it effectivley twists in its mounts. The sensors detect this and back the engine off to preventing damage to it and associated components.

It will not affect your performance, just stop you breaking something if you have a heavy right foot :-)

[vangelis]

I believe the mount sensors are an engine protection device. If you over torque the engine it effectivley twists in its mounts. The sensors detect this and back the engine off to preventing damage to it and associated components.

It will not affect your performance, just stop you breaking something if you have a heavy right foot :-)

I agree with you, anf I have a heavy right foot :) ,that is why I wanna get it fixed soon.

[kevinyoung03]

Thanks for helping me here. I was looking for the solution of this problem.

[vangelis]

Well, I just confirmed with the dealer, the part# 4B3199379D for right side has been superseded by part# 4B3199379M.

[Shoppinit]

It will not affect your performance, just stop you breaking something if you have a heavy right foot :-)
If the engine mount sensor is causing a defect code then the ECU will dial back turbo pressure to reduce power and reduce further damage. The engine mountings are quite a common failure on the RS6.

[uncfrk]

Pure M.S. has mounts http://www.purems.com/products/products.php/CA=1484 I don't know anything about Pure Motor Sports, but the allroad guys use them.

[V8weight]

Pure M.S. has mounts http://www.purems.com/products/products.php/CA=1484 I don't know anything about Pure Motor Sports, but the allroad guys use them.
I like the look of those mounts, but you would have to install a resistor in place of the original motor mount solenoid to fool the ecu into thinking they are still there. For what it's worth, I've had good luck with Pure Motorsports. I've been considering doing both the Sterns motor and transmission mounts in my car. They will cause noticeable vibration over the stock mounts, but should offer better feeling shifts.

[vangelis]

If the engine mount sensor is causing a defect code then the ECU will dial back turbo pressure to reduce power and reduce further damage. The engine mountings are quite a common failure on the RS6.

R u sure about that Shoppinit? Faulty mounting can cause a loose in power??? :vhmmm:

[Shoppinit]

vangelis: have a look at this thread http://www.rs246.com/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=78736&highlight=mount+boost

[Shoppinit]

I understood that a fault here would cut boost. S2tuner doesn't think it does though, and I know he seriously knows his stuff and I'd be inclined to believe him when he says a mount failure won't cause the car to limp.

It's a long shot, but you could always check fuse n°32. This is the circuit that the electro_hydraulic mounts are on...

[Tudigon]

I believe the mount sensors are an engine protection device. If you over torque the engine it effectivley twists in its mounts. The sensors detect this and back the engine off to preventing damage to it and associated components.

It will not affect your performance, just stop you breaking something if you have a heavy right foot :-)

I had the same problem today after I remap the ECU to stage I. I am not quite sure right now if I change the engine mount will solve the problem or the problem will come back again. Do you think it is related to what you were saying here?

Thanks!

[Fraba]

I have the same issue, right side. Interestingly, it kills the cruise control. In fact, I brought the car in for the CC and they found the fault. Just waiting for my waiting period on my warranty to end.

[marklar182]

I have a right side fault, CC works fine.

And I would wait a little extra time after the waiting period, trust me ;)

Tudigon, I have the troubleshooting info from ETKA on my home computer, I can post it later today.

[Fraba]

Rgr on the waiting period. Thanks. On the CC...so much for believing the shop.

[GEN XER]

http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q22/GENXER1971/RS6%20Work/IMG_0715.jpg

Here is what you are looking for. Mine went bad on the right side as well. The left side is still good and I sold the car with it still working.

[Tudigon]

another one question.... the dealership here recommend me to change both side because the labor cost is quite high. Since I see most of the people have the same problem only on the right side, do you think it is really necessary to change the other side?

Actually he told me to even consider to change the transmission as well. He said that's what most people would do.

thanks!

[Tudigon]

Here is what you are looking for. Mine went bad on the right side as well. The left side is still good and I sold the car with it still working.

Sorry I just saw your reply after I post my question. I think that's exactly what I will do tomorrow to just change the right side instead of both side. The dealer told me the labor cost is the same if I decide to change both side. I guess that just doesn't make any sense.

thanks!

[Gustaf]

Can these be changed with the motor in the car? Or does the world need to come apart to get to it?

[JSRS6]

You can get to them by supporting the engine and removing the mount supports.

[V8weight]

Can these be changed with the motor in the car? Or does the world need to come apart to get to it?
I don't see why you couldn't lift the motor from below and change one side at a time, although this is one of the only things I haven't had to do to my car. Probably throw a DTC tomorrow now.

[DHall1]

Please clarify a couple of things.

Where are you located? And where is the car? Audi dealer or indy?

What is the labor quote to change this RS mount?

I'm confused as to why these people would tell you to change the transmission.

So, which flash did you go with? and did you install the MTM trans chip as well. Mileage on the car and has the torque converter ever been changed.

Here is my angle. If the dealer is charging you engine removal to change this mount(which is not needed) you may as well replace the TC(not the entire trans) while your in there. That is IF the TC has never been changed.

And depending on the flash you really need the MTM/TCU chip as well.

edit: I dont work for MTM but the general group all recommend this TCU chip. I know if we dont mention Viper tuning when it comes to engine or trans remapping we get nasty moderator messages in our PM box and a certain vendor starts complaining. But what the hell, I like living on the edge.


another one question.... the dealership here recommend me to change both side because the labor cost is quite high. Since I see most of the people have the same problem only on the right side, do you think it is really necessary to change the other side?

Actually he told me to even consider to change the transmission as well. He said that's what most people would do.

thanks!

[Benman]

edit: I dont work for MTM but the general group all recommend this TCU chip. I know if we dont mention Viper tuning when it comes to engine or trans remapping we get nasty moderator messages in our PM box and a certain vendor starts complaining. But what the hell, I like living on the edge.

That's not really needed...

[MaxRS6]

I'm also unclear about why replace the tranny? You will have ample opportunities to do this when the engine does require a pull- then there are a lot of other items to cover to get economies of scale repairs completed.


Rare sighting...

http://jeffgoins.myadventures.org/blogphotos/myadventures/jeffgoins/life_on_edge.jpg

[DHall1]

Nor is a personal attack via PM by a moderator with an agenda.

How far do we take the PC attitude about just the mention of a vendor product around here? That question has not been answered.

Where have you been in the debate with Klint and Erik?

I think the tables need to be cleared and the rule of RS6.com law laid down on the table to make it very clear what we can or cannot say around here. I'm not upset at all with the entire song and dance but if we are to play that game then where is the boundary? Many members have voiced the attitude about "if we cant talk about the upgrades, help others, give opinions, and generally have a good time. They why are we here?"

We are perched atop a slippery slope. I would think the admin understand the very nature of the forum in general. Showing favor or bias with regard to a particular vendor while shutting down all others is a clear path to failure under the cover of PC. This is a private venue and the admin have all the right to silence any topic. Just where does that power land on the slippery slope? Audiworld paid the ultimate price last year and the RS6 section has never recovered. I wonder where this one goes.

So. Why are you here?


That's not really needed...

[Tudigon]

Please clarify a couple of things.

Where are you located? And where is the car? Audi dealer or indy?

What is the labor quote to change this RS mount?

I'm confused as to why these people would tell you to change the transmission.

So, which flash did you go with? and did you install the MTM trans chip as well. Mileage on the car and has the torque converter ever been changed.

Here is my angle. If the dealer is charging you engine removal to change this mount(which is not needed) you may as well replace the TC(not the entire trans) while your in there. That is IF the TC has never been changed.

And depending on the flash you really need the MTM/TCU chip as well.

edit: I dont work for MTM but the general group all recommend this TCU chip. I know if we dont mention Viper tuning when it comes to engine or trans remapping we get nasty moderator messages in our PM box and a certain vendor starts complaining. But what the hell, I like living on the edge.

You are absolutely right. That's the problem. I only did the MTM chip because the garage guy told me it will take another week. I didn't want to wait so I told him it was okay and I would do the remap first and have the TCU done later when it is ready. Just when I was on my way home and the engine light came up. That's why I thought it might be related to the MTM chip.

The labor cost for changing the engine mount is about US$200 here at local Audi dealer. They told me my car has about 60K miles now and it is the first time the engine mount is broken. They recommend to change the left side and the transmission mount as well just for peace of mind. The labor cost for all three of them is about US$300, only $100 more. The reason why I was hesitated was because I think the right engine mount looks like is an common issue but not the left and transmission mount.

Anyway, thanks all for your good advice. It is very helpful. I sent my car to the dealer this morning and told them I only want to change the right engine mount this time. I will wait and see what heppen next. If it is really the MTM chip caused the issue, I believe the check engine light should come back soon.

Many thanks!

[DHall1]

The added info helps. We all thought your dealer wanted to change the transmission. doh

You should be fine with the just the RS engine mount change.

MTM chip had nothing to do with the failure.




You are absolutely right. That's the problem. I only did the MTM chip because the garage guy told me it will take another week. I didn't want to wait so I told him it was okay and I would do the remap first and have the TCU done later when it is ready. Just when I was on my way home and the engine light came up. That's why I thought it might be related to the MTM chip.

The labor cost for changing the engine mount is about US$200 here at local Audi dealer. They told me my car has about 60K miles now and it is the first time the engine mount is broken. They recommend to change the left side and the transmission mount as well just for peace of mind. The labor cost for all three of them is about US$300, only $100 more. The reason why I was hesitated was because I think the right engine mount looks like is an common issue but not the left and transmission mount.

Anyway, thanks all for your good advice. It is very helpful. I sent my car to the dealer this morning and told them I only want to change the right engine mount this time. I will wait and see what heppen next. If it is really the MTM chip caused the issue, I believe the check engine light should come back soon.

Many thanks!

[Erik]

Nor is a personal attack via PM by a moderator with an agenda.

How far do we take the PC attitude about just the mention of a vendor product around here? That question has not been answered.

Where have you been in the debate with Klint and Erik?

I think the tables need to be cleared and the rule of RS6.com law laid down on the table to make it very clear what we can or cannot say around here. I'm not upset at all with the entire song and dance but if we are to play that game then where is the boundary? Many members have voiced the attitude about "if we cant talk about the upgrades, help others, give opinions, and generally have a good time. They why are we here?"

We are perched atop a slippery slope. I would think the admin understand the very nature of the forum in general. Showing favor or bias with regard to a particular vendor while shutting down all others is a clear path to failure under the cover of PC. This is a private venue and the admin have all the right to silence any topic. Just where does that power land on the slippery slope? Audiworld paid the ultimate price last year and the RS6 section has never recovered. I wonder where this one goes.

So. Why are you here?




Dave, as you can see in the PM I sent you have been warned for the last time.
As I said, this is my "sofa", my forum and my rules. Please use common sense, and you know as well as I that this didn't start with this single post.

When it comes to tuners advertising is forbidden. This forum lives on the contribution I get from fellow members financially, or I pay out of my own pocket which I've been doing since 2002 or something...

Does it mean that a member can't say "I love this tuner, as their service is amazing, performance the best etc. etc."? Of course not!

Does it mean that a tuner can have a "friend" that posts the "ad" instead? Yes, guerilla marketing is perfect but if I find out or find the subject being raised over and over I will act.
There are no rules you can write to avoid this, so I/we act on a per case basis and you have pushed this to far.

I think you're trying to make this into something it isn't, and if someone - at this point - should ask himself why he is here it is you.

I myself have personal experience with both MTM and Hohenester and I love them. I think you could say I'm very biased towards them, I have a hard time hiding it in any case.

You like living on the edge you say, so now you know how close you are and it's up to you to decide on which side you want to stay.

I hope this answers your question.

[DHall1]

So when a moderator PMs me and makes a case for a warning I should just shut up and take it?

I simply asked for an example of my "actions" that caused the said warning.

No examples were ever provided. I asked again and no examples were ever provided. So I questioned why this moderator was sending the warnings in the first place. Nothing ever came of it.

I still have no idea what makes for a tuner friend posting a "ad" as you call it. The whole thing has blown up after this situation between one of your moderators and myself because I questioned the warning and personal attacks that were sent to me via PM. In that PM, I was given a warning due to my activity and behavior. I asked for examples. To this day, no examples of the said behavior were ever provided. That is my beef.

But whatever, like you said your platform.



Dave, as you can see in the PM I sent you have been warned for the last time.
As I said, this is my "sofa", my forum and my rules. Please use common sense, and you know as well as I that this didn't start with this single post.

When it comes to tuners advertising is forbidden. This forum lives on the contribution I get from fellow members financially, or I pay out of my own pocket which I've been doing since 2002 or something...

Does it mean that a member can't say "I love this tuner, as their service is amazing, performance the best etc. etc."? Of course not!

Does it mean that a tuner can have a "friend" that posts the "ad" instead? Yes, guerilla marketing is perfect but if I find out or find the subject being raised over and over I will act.
There are no rules you can write to avoid this, so I/we act on a per case basis and you have pushed this to far.

I think you're trying to make this into something it isn't, and if someone - at this point - should ask himself why he is here it is you.

I myself have personal experience with both MTM and Hohenester and I love them. I think you could say I'm very biased towards them, I have a hard time hiding it in any case.

You like living on the edge you say, so now you know how close you are and it's up to you to decide on which side you want to stay.

I hope this answers your question.

[Tudigon]

I got the engine mount changed today. They told me the original engine mount looks fine so maybe it is just the sensor is broken. Just for peace of mind, I decide to change it. I even change the left one as well. Just in case.

Unfotunately the check engine light is still on because there is a new fault code 16985 came out and can not be deleted. They asked me to go back to my tuner and flash the ECU back to stock. Well, I spent like $1,000 for the ECU remap and then spend $600 to change two engine mounts which are not broken.............. now they told me I have flash it back to stock, that sucks!!


*16985 - Internal Control Module: Memory Check Sum Error

[marklar182]

Tudigon,

16985 is an issue with your flash/chip. Take it back to the tuner immediately to have it corrected. Was it a chip or flash?

Where are you located?