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GBG
September 4th, 2009, 01:08
This is what my car ride height looks like AFTER the DRC replacement. The car rides much better than before...I am very happy with the ride quality... but still a bit high, particularly in the rear. So, should I leave well enough alone or have them do it again? Is there any chance that it will "settle" a bit, which is what the dealer tells me will happen after 800-1000 miles (but which I doubt is accurate)? Thanks. GBG

DuckWingDuck
September 4th, 2009, 01:31
if it's riding high, I would take it in.

Aronis
September 4th, 2009, 01:55
Check your tire pressure. They set mine to 26. Way too low.

Handling is improved especially with proper tire pressure.

Mike

mmaturo
September 4th, 2009, 02:11
looks a little high to me. Mine was just fixed and is close to the before height.

DALLAS_RS6
September 4th, 2009, 02:34
Definetly check the tire presure and mine was done over 2000 miles ago and still sits high. At dealer now to fix.

DHall1
September 4th, 2009, 03:53
Hey,

I just replied to your post on 6speed.

Welcome aboard and your back end is screwed up.

Check some of our recent threads. Lots of info in there.

Your rear height should be 14.5 inches from center hub to top of the fender lip. Yours looks like 15 inches.

Fronts should be just a tad over 14 inches. 14 1/8 is an average.

Did the dealer use the new special tool? Did the dealer allow the car to settle before the final torque on the suspension arms? The latter seems to be the point of error.

The car will not settle. Ever. It needs to be fixed.




This is what my car ride height looks like AFTER the DRC replacement. The car rides much better than before...I am very happy with the ride quality... but still a bit high, particularly in the rear. So, should I leave well enough alone or have them do it again? Is there any chance that it will "settle" a bit, which is what the dealer tells me will happen after 800-1000 miles (but which I doubt is accurate)? Thanks. GBG

GBG
September 4th, 2009, 13:53
Thanks DHall. :) I'll call my local dealer and cross examine him! Looks like he will be doing over again...

s42ski
September 4th, 2009, 23:16
Just measured mine - 15 in the rear and 14.5 in the front - and it feels soft for the first inch or two on the back bumper push test. Question is will the dealer recognize this as a proble or do I need to get AoA involved.

I think the car should be almost impossible to move with the bumper push test - I weigh 200 lbs and I could not move the car when DRC was functional....

thoughts ?

DHall1
September 5th, 2009, 00:28
Yours is screwed up too.

Same questions need to be asked at the dealer.

Did you use the new special tool? Did you allow the car to settle before the final torque of control arm bolts?

read the other threads where we have documented

14 1/8 Front
14 1/2 Rear

These are the verified and repeated over and over and over and over again.....expected results.




Just measured mine - 15 in the rear and 14.5 in the front - and it feels soft for the first inch or two on the back bumper push test. Question is will the dealer recognize this as a proble or do I need to get AoA involved.

I think the car should be almost impossible to move with the bumper push test - I weigh 200 lbs and I could not move the car when DRC was functional....

thoughts ?

DHall1
September 5th, 2009, 00:29
What were your measurements?

Center hub to fender lip?




Thanks DHall. :) I'll call my local dealer and cross examine him! Looks like he will be doing over again...

GBG
September 5th, 2009, 01:27
My measurements were 14 front and 15+1/2 rear. Not good. I'm bringing it in to a different dealer on Friday 9/18.

I asked this second dealer whether Audi will pay for a second install given that the first was done improperly. He said that they probably would if I were to bring it to at the SAME dealership, but probably would not at a different dealership, but he was clearly just guessing. I'm not sure why would Audi North America would refuse to pay for a second install no matter which dealer does it-- why would Audi North America care which dealer does the second install assuming everyone agrees that the first install was botched? In any case, what's the cost of just the install without parts?

DHall1
September 5th, 2009, 05:47
I would take it back to the first dealer.

Just be civil with them and get them to call AoA for direction. We have given you the facts and what the specs are. 15.5 is flat out wrong and almost a danger to drive on the road.

It could just be the bolts torqued with the wheels in the air or maybe they left air in the system. Those questions need to be answered.

Good luck


My measurements were 14 front and 15+1/2 rear. Not good. I'm bringing it in to a different dealer on Friday 9/18.

I asked this second dealer whether Audi will pay for a second install given that the first was done improperly. He said that they probably would if I were to bring it to at the SAME dealership, but probably would not at a different dealership, but he was clearly just guessing. I'm not sure why would Audi North America would refuse to pay for a second install no matter which dealer does it-- why would Audi North America care which dealer does the second install assuming everyone agrees that the first install was botched? In any case, what's the cost of just the install without parts?

GBG
September 5th, 2009, 11:51
Thanks, but the original dealer who did the DRC fix is now 200 miles away from me, so it's too inconvenient. Plus, he's an idiot-- I already explained all of this to him and his response is that "it will settle in 1000 miles". I need to go to a second dealer. If I must pay out of pocket, I will. (Human error is probbly not covered by
my aftermarket warranty).

DHall1
September 5th, 2009, 15:27
Got it.

I would recommend this.

1. Have the new dealer put the car on an alignment rack.
2. Use the rack jacks to lift the suspension arms and raise the car in a loaded manner.
3. Loosen and then retorque the control arm bolts that were disturbed during the strut install.
4. Lower the car back down and drive it.

Then inspect and decide if the central valves need to be bled

There is a chance that the bolts on the arms will do the trick. As others here have found.

Good luck


Thanks, but the original dealer who did the DRC fix is now 200 miles away from me, so it's too inconvenient. Plus, he's an idiot-- I already explained all of this to him and his response is that "it will settle in 1000 miles". I need to go to a second dealer. If I must pay out of pocket, I will. (Human error is probbly not covered by
my aftermarket warranty).

GBG
September 5th, 2009, 16:01
Will do. Thanks DHall.... You've been great help. Much appreciated. :thumb:

s42ski
September 10th, 2009, 05:32
Well I am fresh out of ideas - I went back to the dealer and they checked it out and said that it is fine - now what ? The car is not cine with the soft first couple of inches, new noises from the trunk and the higher ride height....

Showed them the threads from this site - also mentioned the height issue - they said there was no specification for the height after the repair.

Suggestions are welcome

Is there someone I can call for help with this ?:confused:

DuckWingDuck
September 10th, 2009, 05:41
Try the AoA number? Or maybe finally bite the bullet and get a set of KW or H&R. Feeling confident enough to make it out this weekend? Totally understand if not.

DALLAS_RS6
September 10th, 2009, 05:42
Well I am fresh out of ideas - I went back to the dealer and they checked it out and said that it is fine - now what ? The car is not cine with the soft first couple of inches, new noises from the trunk and the higher ride height....

Showed them the threads from this site - also mentioned the height issue - they said there was no specification for the height after the repair.

Suggestions are welcome

Is there someone I can call for help with this ?:confused:

My car is in the shop as we speak. I had a small amount of noise starting and it was sitting a little high. I will let you know what they do. But they definitely agreed it was to high. Oh yeah they said I had a BLOWN SEAL on my front left shock! WTF!

SAF
September 10th, 2009, 05:50
Oh yeah they said I had a BLOWN SEAL on my front left shock! WTF!

That ain't good. I wonder if these things are somehow getting over pressurized.

mmaturo
September 10th, 2009, 06:33
My car is in the shop as we speak. I had a small amount of noise starting and it was sitting a little high. I will let you know what they do. But they definitely agreed it was to high. Oh yeah they said I had a BLOWN SEAL on my front left shock! WTF!

ohhh boy. hope these last. Sounds like yours was over pressurized blew the seal giving you the clatter in the trunk (central valves). Not a good sign if they still fail that easily.

DHall1
September 10th, 2009, 16:13
Which dealer did you take it to?

What are your height measurements?

Any noise from the trunk spells bad news.

Did the dealer use the new tool? How many other DRCs have been done with the new parts/tool kit?




Well I am fresh out of ideas - I went back to the dealer and they checked it out and said that it is fine - now what ? The car is not cine with the soft first couple of inches, new noises from the trunk and the higher ride height....

Showed them the threads from this site - also mentioned the height issue - they said there was no specification for the height after the repair.

Suggestions are welcome

Is there someone I can call for help with this ?:confused:

s42ski
September 10th, 2009, 18:38
Circle Audi in Long Beach - New tool was used and heights were 15.25 at the rear and 14.5 at the front. I think they have done 3-4 other RS6 at this dealership.

This dealership fixed the last DRC repair that I had and did it correct - so I "thought" I would not have an issue with the new fix since it was "new and improved"

I even showed the tech this link and printed it out. The service writer told me the car was in spec and fine and they blamed the noise on the brakes:nana: needing replacement. I pointed out that the noise was not there prior to the shocks being replaced. They also stated that there was no "specification" for ride height which I do not think is correct since every car has a specification for ride height to perform alignments.


So I called AoA and they suggested I go to another dealer to try and make it correct.....

SAF
September 10th, 2009, 19:01
So I called AoA and they suggested I go to another dealer to try and make it correct.....

You've got to be kidding. That was their answer? My tech told me there WAS a spec on ride height.

s42ski
September 10th, 2009, 21:29
SAF, there is a ride height specification on all cars - otherwise it would be impossible to perform an alignment. You can adjust the alignment based on the change in the ride height as the suspension ages, but going higher than original is usually not a good idea.

So the story I got was just that - a story to get me out. More to come - I am going to try another dealer and see if I can get some resolution.

DHall1
September 11th, 2009, 09:24
This just makes me mad as hell.

Talk to Greg about his dealer or HyOctane. I think HO goes to Beverly Hills.

This is just crazy.


SAF, there is a ride height specification on all cars - otherwise it would be impossible to perform an alignment. You can adjust the alignment based on the change in the ride height as the suspension ages, but going higher than original is usually not a good idea.

So the story I got was just that - a story to get me out. More to come - I am going to try another dealer and see if I can get some resolution.

DHall1
September 11th, 2009, 09:27
Call the service manager at Circle.

Make the case for your points.

1. Noise in trunk
2. Ride height too high all around.
3. Similar problems have happened around the country.
4. Will you recheck the car and call tech assist to help?

Again, the agreed "normal" height is...

Front 14 1/8
Rear 14 1/2

This number comes up over and over again with properly repaired cars.

Stick to your guns.


Circle Audi in Long Beach - New tool was used and heights were 15.25 at the rear and 14.5 at the front. I think they have done 3-4 other RS6 at this dealership.

This dealership fixed the last DRC repair that I had and did it correct - so I "thought" I would not have an issue with the new fix since it was "new and improved"

I even showed the tech this link and printed it out. The service writer told me the car was in spec and fine and they blamed the noise on the brakes:nana: needing replacement. I pointed out that the noise was not there prior to the shocks being replaced. They also stated that there was no "specification" for ride height which I do not think is correct since every car has a specification for ride height to perform alignments.


So I called AoA and they suggested I go to another dealer to try and make it correct.....

s42ski
September 11th, 2009, 21:12
Dhall1 - went through the whole routine - they are sticking to the " it works according to factory specifications" - so next Tuesday I will bring it to Pacific and see if they think there is a problem.

DHall1
September 13th, 2009, 04:08
How can anyone just make those assumptions??? without rechecking the car.

Idiots.

When the car gets fixed you should write a letter to the owner of the dealership. Thank him for such a great service department and explain why your next Audi purchase will be from another dealer.






Dhall1 - went through the whole routine - they are sticking to the " it works according to factory specifications" - so next Tuesday I will bring it to Pacific and see if they think there is a problem.

s42ski
September 13th, 2009, 05:24
Dhall, it get's even better - I think either you or one of the other members suggested checking the sway bar links as a potential cause for the clunk in the trunk. Si I Crawl under the car and one of the DRC lines is loose and laying on the lower rear suspension member. This line has a jam nut that attaches it near the sway bar mounts. That was at least part of my rattle.

Bottom line is they never checked it AT ALL!! :nana::nana::vgrumpy::w:

DHall1
September 13th, 2009, 05:58
Nobody is above a simple error.

The best surgeon to the weekend mechanic.

Anyone with a basic element of care would be happy to inspect for potential error.

Your findings point this out.

I would think a call to AoA and the dealership GM is in order. I can give you the number and name of a AoA manager in Michigan. PM me or email me at..

dhall1 @ vzw dot blackberry dot com

Or if your close...come over to the start of tomorrows ride. I will be there. We can compare cars. Mine is perfect, wife and I were running all over San Diego and up the coast today. Love the roads!

Sorry for your problems. Audi needs to wake up and hold dealers accountable.



Dhall, it get's even better - I think either you or one of the other members suggested checking the sway bar links as a potential cause for the clunk in the trunk. Si I Crawl under the car and one of the DRC lines is loose and laying on the lower rear suspension member. This line has a jam nut that attaches it near the sway bar mounts. That was at least part of my rattle.

Bottom line is they never checked it AT ALL!! :nana::nana::vgrumpy::w:

Hy Octane
September 13th, 2009, 17:51
Ask them to show you these supposed factory specifications.
If they had them for anything that has to do with this car we wouldnt have the huge discrepancy of repairs we are seeing.
In short, call them on it.

s42ski
September 16th, 2009, 04:43
Updates - so today I get a call from Pacific Audi and they find :

1. That several of the components in the rear were not tightened down properly ( probably causing the rattling I was hearing over bumps)
2. The front suspension has at least two bushings that were worn through
3. The system was not charged properly after the replacement as it was not at proper pressure

According to the previous dealer everything was operating "at specification".

More to come...

DHall1
September 16th, 2009, 06:43
Did you notify Mr Hollester?

Sounds like you got the car to the right place.

I guess the letter to Circle GM and owner is in order. Idiots need to drink piss water for their actions. As I posted below, anyone with common sense from a surgeon to a mechanic should be more than willing to look into your issues without just blowing you off without even a 2nd look.

Idiots.

The warranty DRC claim from Circle should be placed on void by AoA. Your current dealer should be paid for the repair. I think you can make that happen.


Updates - so today I get a call from Pacific Audi and they find :

1. That several of the components in the rear were not tightened down properly ( probably causing the rattling I was hearing over bumps)
2. The front suspension has at least two bushings that were worn through
3. The system was not charged properly after the replacement as it was not at proper pressure

According to the previous dealer everything was operating "at specification".

More to come...

snoopra
September 16th, 2009, 14:45
After hearing all these F-ups with the "new" DRC, I bit the bullet and bought a set of KW V3's. I'll try to see if I can get a refund from AoA, even though they've already told me I had to have bought it BEFORE the recall came out. I'll use the fact that no Audi dealership exist in the USVI. Might work. I'm getting the following suspension parts replaced with the install:

FRONT SUSPENSION PARTS
#09 - Upper Bearing - Part # 4D0 412 377 F
#14 - Spring Disc Upper - Part # 8D0 412 065 F

REAR SUSPENSION PARTS
#3 - Shock Absorber Mounting - Part # 8E0 512 121 D
#4 - Stop Buffer - Part # 4B3 512 131 C
#5 - Buffer Block, Upper - Part # 8E0 512 149 H

MaxRS6
September 16th, 2009, 15:08
After hearing all these F-ups with the "new" DRC, I bit the bullet and bought a set of KW V3's. I'll try to see if I can get a refund from AoA, even though they've already told me I had to have bought it BEFORE the recall came out. I'll use the fact that no Audi dealership exist in the USVI. Might work. I'm getting the following suspension parts replaced with the install:
FRONT SUSPENSION PARTS
#09 - Upper Bearing - Part # 4D0 412 377 F
#14 - Spring Disc Upper - Part # 8D0 412 065 F

REAR SUSPENSION PARTS
#3 - Shock Absorber Mounting - Part # 8E0 512 121 D
#4 - Stop Buffer - Part # 4B3 512 131 C
#5 - Buffer Block, Upper - Part # 8E0 512 149 H

Good luck with the install

hahnmgh63
September 16th, 2009, 15:25
Even though I purchased the KW V3's 11 months ago, before the recall, Audi is not willing to re-imburse me as they said a dealer or independent shop needed to confirm there was a fault with the DRC. So to get my money out of AOA since I hadn't installed the KW's, I had them do the recall (Bad install of course), then had them try to correct it (still to high), then I drove my car the 1+ hour home from the second fix attempt and ripped all of the new & old DRC components out and installed the KW's and I've been smiling ever since.

DHall1
September 16th, 2009, 19:29
I must say given the horror stories out there.....your path was well designed.

If you dont have a good dealer then KWs all the way.

It is a shame because my car runs perfectly with the properly repaired DRC. The Julian Run was a dream of a drive and the car worked as designed. So much fun to push to the limit and play with over/understeer around every corner.



Even though I purchased the KW V3's 11 months ago, before the recall, Audi is not willing to re-imburse me as they said a dealer or independent shop needed to confirm there was a fault with the DRC. So to get my money out of AOA since I hadn't installed the KW's, I had them do the recall (Bad install of course), then had them try to correct it (still to high), then I drove my car the 1+ hour home from the second fix attempt and ripped all of the new & old DRC components out and installed the KW's and I've been smiling ever since.

snoopra
September 16th, 2009, 22:14
Should be able to reduce over/understeer by adjusting compression/rebound on KW's right? My car's ride height right now is 13.5" average with busted DRC so it should be the same with KW installed at highest setting, right?

DHall1
September 17th, 2009, 01:15
Typically, most drivers should never come to the point that they feel any over or understeer.

Only on a race track or open road should you experiment with that option.

Good balance is when you can play with your gas and brake pedal just alittle and tip the scales between over and understeer. That my friends is pure fun. On that edge and just a tad to tip it over or under is just where you want to be.

Given what I just said. Your driving skill and car setup will determine where your sweet spot really is....

Do a search on typical KW setups. V8 put a nice one together.


Should be able to reduce over/understeer by adjusting compression/rebound on KW's right? My car's ride height right now is 13.5" average with busted DRC so it should be the same with KW installed at highest setting, right?

V8weight
September 17th, 2009, 01:39
I have to add, for all of those switching to Kw's, I hope you are doing the "headshot Mods" so you can make rebound adjustments without uninstalling the whole coilover system.
http://rs6.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17263&highlight=kw+mods
And here is my thread after my install
http://rs6.com/forum/showthread.php?t=18199&highlight=kw+v3+settings

snoopra
September 17th, 2009, 02:31
Thanks for the heads up DHall1.
V8, I'll just use your settings with a 5mm higher ride height, no need for the "headshot mods".

Spidercat
September 17th, 2009, 22:04
I have to add, for all of those switching to Kw's, I hope you are doing the "headshot Mods" so you can make rebound adjustments without uninstalling the whole coilover system.
http://rs6.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17263&highlight=kw+mods
And here is my thread after my install
http://rs6.com/forum/showthread.php?t=18199&highlight=kw+v3+settings

:0: Nice work digging that one up! I had been meaning to look that up for a while but kept putting it off, knowing that the search button was NOT going to be my friend!

Eventual goal is to go the hahnmgh63 route and not look back. Provided that I'm unhappy w/the DRC fix, that is.

I'll reserve judgement until I actually get mine done, however. Who knows? Maybe I'll be pleasantly surprised.

s42ski
September 18th, 2009, 03:57
Well, AoA contacted me today and asked in if they could send a technician to check on the work. I said that would be great. Now it turns out they are bringing a complete set of new shocks and they will be here on Tuesday. So more to come, but it appears that AoA is being proactive on this :)

More to come

DALLAS_RS6
September 18th, 2009, 04:51
Got my car back from the dealer Monday. I do have to say it is a lot stiffer than the first time. No more cadillac! This is what I expected the car to feel like. I did notice the rear is now 14 3/4 from center of hub to the fender lip. Not to concerned with the height, I will have it taken care of by someone other than the dealer ( Steve?). I am happy so far, lets just hope there are no more issues. I was also contacted by AoA today regarding my on going DRC problems. Definetly feels good to see AoA is making an effort to resolve our problem.:rs6kiss:

Spidercat
September 18th, 2009, 06:35
Dealer just called me today to set up an appointment to get mine replaced next week. They've done a couple already, I'm told with no "issues." They are giving me a loaner for the day, and the trans/eng oil will be changed at the same time. Will definitely post before/after measurements.
My tech is pretty good, so I remain hopeful...

DHall1
September 18th, 2009, 06:51
Wow,

Finally some real action. Bravo Audi!

Did you have the AoA contact with Mr Hollester? Did he make all this happen?

Damn! It pays to have friends.




Well, AoA contacted me today and asked in if they could send a technician to check on the work. I said that would be great. Now it turns out they are bringing a complete set of new shocks and they will be here on Tuesday. So more to come, but it appears that AoA is being proactive on this :)

More to come

Shoppinit
September 18th, 2009, 08:08
I have to add, for all of those switching to Kw's, I hope you are doing the "headshot Mods" so you can make rebound adjustments without uninstalling the whole coilover system.
http://rs6.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17263&highlight=kw+mods
And here is my thread after my install
http://rs6.com/forum/showthread.php?t=18199&highlight=kw+v3+settings
Don't you have to do a complete alignement if you remove the upper suspension mount? That's a nasty job.

V8weight
September 18th, 2009, 17:24
Don't you have to do a complete alignement if you remove the upper suspension mount? That's a nasty job.
You'll want to get an alignment after the coilover install anyhow. When I made my access holes, I didn't remove the upper strut mounts, I just drilled in from the top of the strut tower with everything assembled. But then again, I have access to full frame dimiension sheets, and was able to use a tram guage to pinpoint the location of the hole first.

Shoppinit
September 18th, 2009, 18:45
Maybe it would be a good idea to drill through and put pins in 2 or 3 areas to ensure correct positioning when refitting?

Doing the alignment of the upper suspension mounts has got to be a specialist job, I would have thought.

hahnmgh63
September 18th, 2009, 22:34
The alignment is standard Audi Quattro. I did elect to replace my upper strut & shock mounts when I did the KW's. After looking at the design they may have been ok as they act more of as a bumper than anything else, nothing like Porsche uses with a bearing in the top strut mounts for better movement. The mounts will not affect the alignment but loosening up everything to change the shocks/struts can, and I did notice that the dealer did make a grease pencil mark but that would have really only held the alignment close, but with a much higher rear ride height the alignment would have been off anyways. Now that I went KW's and am sitting lower than previous I will need an alignment also. As mentioned before, due to laziness, I only changed the upper control arms (the upper rears were very worn looking at 56K). I have spherical bearings on order from 034 so I will be doing both lowers in the next month or so and then having the alignment done.
DHall1, I see what your saying but the KW's actually are only slightly firmer than my pre DRC Fix system (post DRC seems to be a wide range of what's right) and they allow me to go lower (13.25" rear 13.125" front) which is what I've wanted for a long time. I started at 13" all the way around and didn't have any rubbing issues but I thought the car looked a little better sitting slightly higher.

s42ski
September 24th, 2009, 02:13
So I picked up the car today - 4 pages of repair info with a novella on two of them. Readers Digest version is the car has one new shock and two central valves. When examined ALL of the shocks were full of air and the system was pressurized to 2 BAR. Also the two suspension bushing on the front left were replaced since they were worn through. All loose lines in the back were tightened down as well.

But according to the old dealer it was all at factory specifications.:doh: OK - I am done venting on that front.

In any case regional technician and one from Germany overlooked the repair. Car feels stiff again and the ride height is back to normal. In the notes they even indicated that they relaxed the suspension bolts with car on the ground and then tightened them ( as per the instructions!) to make sure the car rode properly.

Total bill was over ~$6K. Plus the time of the two master technicians.

Car is back to what I remember an RS6 is supposed to feel like. :love2:

Thank you Pacific Audi and AoA for making this right:applause:

DHall1
September 24th, 2009, 05:44
Well well well.

The real Audi stands up and makes things right. Over and above the call of duty.

We do have some important Audi folks watching RS6.com. Thanks Qisha!

If anyone is having DRC problems after a shoddy repair. Email me and I will put you thru to the proper contact at AoA.

DRC is fantastic when working properly.

:addict:


So I picked up the car today - 4 pages of repair info with a novella on two of them. Readers Digest version is the car has one new shock and two central valves. When examined ALL of the shocks were full of air and the system was pressurized to 2 BAR. Also the two suspension bushing on the front left were replaced since they were worn through. All loose lines in the back were tightened down as well.

But according to the old dealer it was all at factory specifications.:doh: OK - I am done venting on that front.

In any case regional technician and one from Germany overlooked the repair. Car feels stiff again and the ride height is back to normal. In the notes they even indicated that they relaxed the suspension bolts with car on the ground and then tightened them ( as per the instructions!) to make sure the car rode properly.

Total bill was over ~$6K. Plus the time of the two master technicians.

Car is back to what I remember an RS6 is supposed to feel like. :love2:

Thank you Pacific Audi and AoA for making this right:applause:

GBG
September 24th, 2009, 21:14
Well well well.

The real Audi stands up and makes things right. Over and above the call of duty.

We do have some important Audi folks watching RS6.com. Thanks Qisha!

If anyone is having DRC problems after a shoddy repair. Email me and I will put you thru to the proper contact at AoA.

DRC is fantastic when working properly.

:addict:

DHall,

I am still having trouble with DRC. Two dealers have now screwed it up. After a "re-install", my car is still too high, particularly in the rear (measures 15+1/8 from middle of center cap). The ride is soft with too much body roll. Both dealers insist that it's at spec height, rides well, and they think I'm crazy! I'm taking it to a third dealer for one more try to get it right. Can you PM me a name and/or phone number at AoA for this (new) dealer to call in case he needs assistance? Thanks. GBG

Gary

Spidercat
September 30th, 2009, 01:25
Before: 13.5"F/14"R
After: 14 1/8"F/ 15"R
Noooooooo.

I made point of showing the SA the tire to fender clearance with my fingers when I dropped it off as a quick reference test. I had a funny feeling that this may be a problem. It looked high when I picked it up, and sure enough, at least one more finger F/R! Doh!

I took the car home and the SA's going to check into it w/the mech and AoA to talk w/him about pre-loading the suspension before torqueing the bolts down to spec and also bleeding the system. Showed him this thread on my iPhone (thank-you, technology!) I just couldn't wait around.

On a positive note, the car feels more "planted," especially powering out of turns.

If I didn't just buy new wheels and need new rotors (and now new tires), KWs would be halfway here by now...

hahnmgh63
September 30th, 2009, 03:09
Spidercat, what wheels did you go with? Please tell me you got some Forged wheels :)

Spidercat
September 30th, 2009, 07:55
Spidercat, what wheels did you go with? Please tell me you got some Forged wheels :)

Since you asked...I've been looking for a set of these wheels for about a year now:<O:p></O:p>
<O:p></O:p>
http://rs6.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=8578&stc=1&d=1254292925<O:p></O:p>

http://rs6.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=8573&stc=1&d=1254292285

<O:p>http://rs6.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=8572&stc=1&d=1254292285</O:p>
<O:p>http://rs6.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=8574&stc=1&d=1254292285</O:p>
<O:p></O:p>
I immediately fell in love with them! They reminded me of the old Ruf 5-spoke (one of my favorite wheels of all time).
Gratuitous photos:

http://rs6.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=8577&stc=1&d=1254292925

http://rs6.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=8580&stc=1&d=1254293612
^^^These require adapters or special order for Audi bolt pattern, so no go for me^^^


Anyway, I didn't even know who the heck made them for quite a while, and I thought I had searched everywhere, but somebody here (I think Nene) nailed them on the head when I reposted these pics out of desparation. So, after many long e-mail chains and dead ends, Rolf at ABT gave me the name of a distributor in FL who could get them for <GULP>almost $1K each plus shipping! :harass:So that was the end of that chapter. Also, I wasn't sure if I wanted silver or titanium, and I thought I had better be sure for $4k (not including tires)! <O:p></O:p>
<O:p></O:p>
Skip ahead to a few weeks ago, saw a set of used 19 x 8.5 titanium colored ones in Canada for $2500 including tires (but they were only 235's so I'd want to replace them anyway). They looked a little too dark for my taste on my car, and had some minor rash on them.
http://rs6.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=8576&stc=1&d=1254292712

http://rs6.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=8575&stc=1&d=1254292712



I searched again and found some on e-bay that were silver, brand new in the box, and 19 x 8.5 ET32 for $1600 buy it now!

http://rs6.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=8579&stc=1&d=1254293047
I couldn't pass them up. I just spent a bunch on my laser jammers, and I still need new brakes, so it took a little convincing my wife. She eventually gave me the green light. I think it helped that I unwittingly softened the blow with the used wheels for $2500! Now I'm just waiting for them to arrive, and then I'll get some 255s from tirerack and all will be well in my world!<O:p></O:p>
<O:p></O:p>
Anyway, to answer your question, I think they are cast alloy, not forged. So I am just as sure they are not light. And by not light, I mean effin heavy for aftermarket wheels! He gave me a number (which I'm embarrassed to actually post), but I'll be happy if they are even a little lighter than my 18s. I will weigh them when they get here to be sure, but I really don't care. Read: Do not attempt to lecture me on unsprung weight! I know. I don't care. <O:p></O:p>
<O:p></O:p>
I needed a set of 19s to clear the new C6 rotors, which I'm rediculously close to needing (Grizz, please answer my e-mails!!!)<O:p></O:p>
<O:p></O:p>
If I can't get this C6 kit from Grizz, then I'll just bite the bullet and get the OEM C5 rotors from the dealer (already have the pads--been in the trunk for like 4 months!) and try Grizz again in 15-20K miles.<O:p></O:p>
<O:p></O:p>
On a separate note, when I got home I rechecked the ride height, and it's 14" front bilaterally, and Rear:14.5" passenger/14.75" driver side. It still looks high, but if they followed the proper sequence of steps, I may just fugetaboutit and leave it be 'til I get the KWs. It just looks so friggin high (compared to before).<O:p></O:p>
<O:p></O:p>

DHall1
September 30th, 2009, 15:41
Pics no workie

Keep checking the DRC. Your numbers are real close.


Since you asked...I've been looking for a set of these wheels for about a year now:<O:p></O:p>
<O:p></O:p>
http://rs6.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=8578&stc=1&d=1254292925<O:p></O:p>

http://rs6.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=8573&stc=1&d=1254292285

<O:p>http://rs6.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=8572&stc=1&d=1254292285</O:p>
<O:p>http://rs6.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=8574&stc=1&d=1254292285</O:p>
<O:p></O:p>
I immediately fell in love with them! They reminded me of the old Ruf 5-spoke (one of my favorite wheels of all time).
Gratuitous photos:

http://rs6.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=8577&stc=1&d=1254292925

http://rs6.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=8580&stc=1&d=1254293612
^^^These require adapters or special order for Audi bolt pattern, so no go for me^^^


Anyway, I didn't even know who the heck made them for quite a while, and I thought I had searched everywhere, but somebody here (I think Nene) nailed them on the head when I reposted these pics out of desparation. So, after many long e-mail chains and dead ends, Rolf at ABT gave me the name of a distributor in FL who could get them for <GULP>almost $1K each plus shipping! :harass:So that was the end of that chapter. Also, I wasn't sure if I wanted silver or titanium, and I thought I had better be sure for $4k (not including tires)! <O:p></O:p>
<O:p></O:p>
Skip ahead to a few weeks ago, saw a set of used 19 x 8.5 titanium colored ones in Canada for $2500 including tires (but they were only 235's so I'd want to replace them anyway). They looked a little too dark for my taste on my car, and had some minor rash on them.
http://rs6.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=8576&stc=1&d=1254292712

http://rs6.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=8575&stc=1&d=1254292712



I searched again and found some on e-bay that were silver, brand new in the box, and 19 x 8.5 ET32 for $1600 buy it now!

http://rs6.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=8579&stc=1&d=1254293047
I couldn't pass them up. I just spent a bunch on my laser jammers, and I still need new brakes, so it took a little convincing my wife. She eventually gave me the green light. I think it helped that I unwittingly softened the blow with the used wheels for $2500! Now I'm just waiting for them to arrive, and then I'll get some 255s from tirerack and all will be well in my world!<O:p></O:p>
<O:p></O:p>
Anyway, to answer your question, I think they are cast alloy, not forged. So I am just as sure they are not light. And by not light, I mean effin heavy for aftermarket wheels! He gave me a number (which I'm embarrassed to actually post), but I'll be happy if they are even a little lighter than my 18s. I will weigh them when they get here to be sure, but I really don't care. Read: Do not attempt to lecture me on unsprung weight! I know. I don't care. <O:p></O:p>
<O:p></O:p>
I needed a set of 19s to clear the new C6 rotors, which I'm rediculously close to needing (Grizz, please answer my e-mails!!!)<O:p></O:p>
<O:p></O:p>
If I can't get this C6 kit from Grizz, then I'll just bite the bullet and get the OEM C5 rotors from the dealer (already have the pads--been in the trunk for like 4 months!) and try Grizz again in 15-20K miles.<O:p></O:p>
<O:p></O:p>
On a separate note, when I got home I rechecked the ride height, and it's 14" front bilaterally, and Rear:14.5" passenger/14.75" driver side. It still looks high, but if they followed the proper sequence of steps, I may just fugetaboutit and leave it be 'til I get the KWs. It just looks so friggin high (compared to before).<O:p></O:p>
<O:p></O:p>

Spidercat
September 30th, 2009, 20:44
Yeah, that's why I may just leave well enough alone for now. Rides better, anyway.

I'll check on the images when I get home and re-do. They worked last night when I posted them (I saw them, I swear!).

Grrrr!

Actually, I'll probably start another thread. Didn't mean to thread-jack, anyway! I can probably find the images again, edit them, then copy/paste the text. I got time now, actually...

Brake light just came on while pulling into the parking garage this morning. Grizzzzzz!

Spidercat
September 30th, 2009, 22:00
Spidercat, what wheels did you go with? Please tell me you got some Forged wheels :)


Let's try this again:
Since you asked...I've been looking for a set of these wheels for about a year now:<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" /><o:p></o:p>
<o:p> http://www.rs6.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=8589&stc=1&d=1254343581</o:p>
<o:p> </o:p>
<o:p></o:p>
<o:p>http://www.rs6.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=8590&stc=1&d=1254343581</o:p>
<o:p></o:p>
<o:p></o:p>
<o:p>http://www.rs6.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=8591&stc=1&d=1254343581</o:p>
<o:p></o:p>
<o:p> http://www.rs6.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=8593&stc=1&d=1254343952</o:p>
<o:p> </o:p>
<o:p> </o:p>
<o:p> </o:p>
I immediately fell in love with them! They reminded me of the old Ruf 5-spoke (one of my favorite wheels of all time).
Gratuitous photos:

<?xml:namespace prefix = v ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:vml" /><v:shapetype id=_x0000_t75 stroked="f" filled="f" path="m@4@5l@4@11@9@11@9@5xe" o:preferrelative="t" o:spt="75" coordsize="21600,21600"><v:stroke joinstyle="miter"></v:stroke><v:formulas><v:f eqn="if lineDrawn pixelLineWidth 0"></v:f><v:f eqn="sum @0 1 0"></v:f><v:f eqn="sum 0 0 @1"></v:f><v:f eqn="prod @2 1 2"></v:f><v:f eqn="prod @3 21600 pixelWidth"></v:f><v:f eqn="prod @3 21600 pixelHeight"></v:f><v:f eqn="sum @0 0 1"></v:f><v:f eqn="prod @6 1 2"></v:f><v:f eqn="prod @7 21600 pixelWidth"></v:f><v:f eqn="sum @8 21600 0"></v:f><v:f eqn="prod @7 21600 pixelHeight"></v:f><v:f eqn="sum @10 21600 0"></v:f></v:formulas><v:path o:connecttype="rect" gradientshapeok="t" o:extrusionok="f"></v:path><o:lock aspectratio="t" v:ext="edit"></o:lock></v:shapetype><v:shape id=_x0000_i1025 style="WIDTH: 24pt; HEIGHT: 24pt" type="#_x0000_t75" alt=""></v:shape>http://www.rs6.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=8594&stc=1&d=1254344116

<v:shape id=_x0000_i1026 style="WIDTH: 24pt; HEIGHT: 24pt" type="#_x0000_t75" alt=""></v:shape>http://www.rs6.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=8595&stc=1&d=1254344116


http://www.rs6.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=8596&stc=1&d=1254344236

^^^These require adapters or special order for Audi bolt pattern, so no go for me^^^


Anyway, I didn't even know who the heck made them for quite a while, and I thought I had searched everywhere, but somebody here (I think Nene) nailed them on the head when I reposted these pics out of desparation. So, after many long e-mail chains and dead ends, Rolf at ABT gave me the name of a distributor in FL who could get them for almost $1K each plus shipping! :harass:<o:p></o:p>
So that was the end of that chapter. Also, I wasn't sure if I wanted silver or titanium, and I thought I had better be sure for $4k (not including tires)! <o:p></o:p>
<o:p> </o:p>
<o:p> </o:p>
<o:p> </o:p>
Skip ahead to a few weeks ago, saw a set of used 19 x 8.5 titanium colored ones in <?xml:namespace prefix = st1 ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" /><st1:place w:st="on"><st1:country-region w:st="on">Canada</st1:country-region></st1:place> for $2500 including tires (but they were only 235's so I'd want to replace them anyway). They looked a little too dark for my taste on my car, and had some minor blemishes on them.
<v:shape id=_x0000_i1028 style="WIDTH: 24pt; HEIGHT: 24pt" type="#_x0000_t75" alt=""></v:shape>
http://www.rs6.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=8597&stc=1&d=1254344329



<v:shape id=_x0000_i1029 style="WIDTH: 24pt; HEIGHT: 24pt" type="#_x0000_t75" alt=""></v:shape>http://www.rs6.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=8598&stc=1&d=1254344329



I searched again and found some on e-bay that were silver, brand new in the box, and 19 x 8.5 ET32 for $1600 buy it now!

http://www.rs6.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=8599&stc=1&d=1254344392
<v:shape id=_x0000_i1027 style="WIDTH: 24pt; HEIGHT: 24pt" type="#_x0000_t75" alt=""></v:shape>
I couldn't pass them up. I just spent a bunch on my laser jammers, and I still need new brakes, so it took a little convincing my wife. She eventually gave me the green light. I think it helped that I unwittingly softened the blow with the used wheels for $2500! Now I'm just waiting for them to arrive, and then I'll get some 255s from tirerack and all will be well in my world<o:p></o:p>
<o:p> </o:p>
<o:p> </o:p>
<o:p> </o:p>
<o:p> </o:p>
<o:p> </o:p>
Anyway, to answer your question, I think they are cast alloy, not forged. So I am just as sure they are not light. And by not light, I mean effin heavy for aftermarket wheels! He gave me a number (which I'm embarrassed to actually post), but I'll be happy if they are even a little lighter than my 18s. I will weigh them when they get here to be sure, but I really don't care. Read: Do not attempt to lecture me on unsprung weight! I know. I don't care. <o:p></o:p>
<o:p> </o:p>
<o:p> </o:p>
<o:p> </o:p>
<o:p> </o:p>
I needed a set of 19s to clear the new C6 rotors, which I'm rediculously close to needing (Grizz, please answer my e-mails)<o:p></o:p>
<o:p> </o:p>
<o:p> </o:p>
If I can't get this C6 kit from Grizz, then I'll just bite the bullet and get the OEM C5 rotors from the dealer (already have the pads--been in the trunk for like 4 months!) and try Grizz again in 15-20K miles.<o:p></o:p>

Spidercat
October 6th, 2009, 08:31
Wheels arrived today!!!
EXACTLY what I was looking for! I'm so tempted to just jack the car up and test fit one to check the offset...

Added bonus: they are not 35 lbs, as I was told (did I just say that number out loud?). They are (only) 29.5lbs. So just "real" heavy, not :harass:heavy. Plus, they look cool as shit!

Oh, I guess I should stay on topic:
My suspension height hasn't budged. Still TFH! Wo is me.

Rez0n8r
October 12th, 2009, 05:34
I just got my DRC do-over completed earlier this month by Strong Audi in Salt Lake City. No problems so far, and I can really feel the difference in the way the car drives.

They said they have done 6 cars before mine, and the ride height is correct. They found a leaking high pressure hose on one of the rear shocks, which added 4 days to the repair but was paid for by Audi.


Which dealer did you take it to?

What are your height measurements?

Any noise from the trunk spells bad news.

Did the dealer use the new tool? How many other DRCs have been done with the new parts/tool kit?