PDA

View Full Version : Please measure and post your after DRC repair Tire Pressure



Aronis
August 30th, 2009, 16:51
My pressure was set to 26 PSI all around.

This is most likely part of the repair bulletin to lessen complaints of 'bouncing' as the tire will absorb more of the shock and of course give a softer ride, wear the tread unevenly, and add significant squeal when turning.

I filled my tires to 48 PSI where I usually keep it and the ride is much more firm and the road potholes give the jar you'd expect from a tightly sprung suspension.

I'd love to find out what everyone else's tire pressures were set to.

Mike

Roger
August 30th, 2009, 18:25
48 seems a little high

DHall1
August 30th, 2009, 18:37
I set mine 42psi cold.

I dont think Audi changed mine after the repair in May.

DALLAS_RS6
August 30th, 2009, 20:18
My were also at 26 psi when it came back from the dealership. I thought it was just a coincedense. WTF!

RS6-4dr911
August 30th, 2009, 20:50
They didn't mess with mine. I run about 38 cold typically. So far so good.

Aronis
August 30th, 2009, 23:39
As per door label...

36 PSI is the minimum (driver, no baggage)
49 Max for 5 people and luggage.

I think they are deliverately dropping the Pressure to 26 to less the harshness of the ride to try to hide something.

26 is WAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAy tooooo low...

Mike

DonS
August 31st, 2009, 00:44
32 PSI (cold) and you can see finger marks in the brake dust (yep, I shoud be reading the brake pad thread shortly) proving someone checked them since the last wash (not me). 32 PSI is pretty old-school for radials. I'll add some air to hit 38PSI...

SAF
August 31st, 2009, 01:33
They didn't mess with mine. I run about 38 cold typically. So far so good.

Same here.

snoopra
August 31st, 2009, 01:43
NO DRC repair yet, but I run 45 psig cold since pressure increases up to 4psig when warmed up.

DuckWingDuck
August 31st, 2009, 01:44
50 to get faster on those salt flats!!!!

Hehe. Ya, I'm low 40s myself

hahnmgh63
August 31st, 2009, 02:08
I run 45 psi out of a Nitrogen tank in my shop and mine were unchanged from DRC fix #1 & #2 but then again, they didn't bother to hook up one or my rear swaybar drop links so they obviously didn't have time to monkey with my tire pressure.

DHall1
August 31st, 2009, 04:26
Don,

Hurry and you can get by dirt cheap. Put the EBC Reds on the car asap.

http://www.rs6.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17594&highlight=ebc+brake+pads


32 PSI (cold) and you can see finger marks in the brake dust (yep, I shoud be reading the brake pad thread shortly) proving someone checked them since the last wash (not me). 32 PSI is pretty old-school for radials. I'll add some air to hit 38PSI...

DHall1
August 31st, 2009, 04:30
http://www.rs6.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17740&highlight=ebc+brake+pads

hahnmgh63
August 31st, 2009, 05:23
I agree with the EBC reds on the street, a little less dust than OEM and much cheaper, seem to brake equally. On the track (DE events), I've swapped to a set of Yellows, they need a little heat to really work so probably not quite as good as Reds for the street unless you really run hard on the street. I think my next brake project will be Grizz's C6 brake upgrade for the C5.

DHall1
August 31st, 2009, 07:06
I wish I could do the C6 rotor upgrade. I have to stick with the 18's till I wear out the tires and choose rims. If you still have an extra set of rotors LMK.

Hmmm, I could burn up the PS2s on the Julian Run. Yeah, that sounds like a plan.




I agree with the EBC reds on the street, a little less dust than OEM and much cheaper, seem to brake equally. On the track (DE events), I've swapped to a set of Yellows, they need a little heat to really work so probably not quite as good as Reds for the street unless you really run hard on the street. I think my next brake project will be Grizz's C6 brake upgrade for the C5.