DIY: Easy oil change and filter access

[Audi-RS6]

Not sure why "others" mentioned that you need to lower sway bar or some other stuff, I didnt believe it and decided to make some pictures.
Its a basic maintenance and should not touch any part of suspension.

Hope we all know which one is the main bolt for oil drain and it requires star "*" T-55

Filter is easily accessible from passenger side wheel, next to axle there is a hole where you can GET FILTER IN and OUT

http://wheelsgallery.com/upload/rs6/intercooler/IMGP3934.JPG

Here is my hand easily touching the filter
Pipe you see is turbo pipe, hose was removed for replacement, no need to remove during oil change

http://wheelsgallery.com/upload/rs6/intercooler/IMGP3933.JPG

[xpl0sive]

kinda an off topic question, does the engine have to be removed in order to perform the timing belt service?

[DHall1]

nope

only the front bumper and support

[xpl0sive]

so why do people make such a big deal about changing the t-belt... i know its a pain in the ass, but it can be done in a weekend... i thought the car had to be under major service to get it replaced... i guess not

[Audi-RS6]

i'll post timing belt DIY when time comes.
I did tbelt on my s4, nothing hard i would say 12 pack of beer and by the time you finish em t-belt will be done. :cool2:


so why do people make such a big deal about changing the t-belt... i know its a pain in the ass, but it can be done in a weekend... i thought the car had to be under major service to get it replaced... i guess not

[96a4]

Working at a dealer it is much easier if you can drop the enige for a T-belt job. But the enigne does need to be dropped to replace 2 of the O2 sensor and valve cover gasket replacement.

[Audi-RS6]

I changed my valve cover gasket with three tools in hands, no way you need to drop engine for that


Working at a dealer it is much easier if you can drop the enige for a T-belt job. But the enigne does need to be dropped to replace 2 of the O2 sensor and valve cover gasket replacement.

http://wheelsgallery.com/upload/rs6/intercooler/vc1.jpg

http://wheelsgallery.com/upload/rs6/intercooler/vc2.jpg

[ben916]

i'll post timing belt DIY when time comes.
I did tbelt on my s4, nothing hard i would say 12 pack of beer and by the time you finish em t-belt will be done. :cool2:

12 pack!?:bigeyes:

I would be on the ground sleeping instead of working...

excellent write-ups and photos!
The Mods should have a DIY area....hint hint...

[DHall1]

:cheers: I would say you own that one.

I need to find me a high miler to dive into all these repairs. Mine just turned 30k and it needs nothing. Damn, I want to get the tools out.

:w:


I changed my valve cover gasket with three tools in hands, no way you need to drop engine for that

[V8weight]

:cheers: I would say you own that one.

I need to find me a high miler to dive into all these repairs. Mine just turned 30k and it needs nothing. Damn, I want to get the tools out.

:w:
Maybe we can work out a trade:lovl: Needless to say since I bought the RS6, my tools gather very little dust. On topic though, I always just remove the sway bar as well as the right intercooler tube when changing my filter. It's easy enough to remove the filter without doing so, but the oil drains right down onto the sway bar.

[DHall1]

Hehe,

I have my 88 Alltrac turbo down at my place in AZ. I got some tinkering planned for it this summer. It already has a big ass turbo, injectors, fuel, tune and 3" ceramic coated exhaust from the turbo back. One of a kind Whiteline full suspension upgrades and the car just turned 70k miles. Talk about sleeper....nobody has a clue what that thing can do.

The only problem, upgraded Porterfield pads and stock rotors will not slow the car down. Ahhhhhh, after about 10 minutes of hard canyon running....the pads are on fire. :revs:

I have to plan a full brake package update to the car. Nobody makes anything for that little monster.


Maybe we can work out a trade:lovl: Needless to say since I bought the RS6, my tools gather very little dust. On topic though, I always just remove the sway bar as well as the right intercooler tube when changing my filter. It's easy enough to remove the filter without doing so, but the oil drains right down onto the sway bar.

[cornishmoocher]

[quote=96a4;164492]Working at a dealer it is much easier if you can drop the enige for a T-belt job. quote]

Thats why dealers are crooks.

Thats complete and total bullshit man. The engine does not have to come out at all to do a cam belt, and nothing could be easier. as Dave says, front bumper off and the whole front end of the engie is exposed, if its on a ramp its even easier! Grizz did mine in less than a morning.... Including all pulleys, tensioners, water pump AND thermostat.
And that was why he was £3000 cheaper than the dealer. Fookin robbing bastards, praying on the unwary. :vgrumpy:

Engine out = money making.......

[snoopra]

Working at a dealer it is much easier if you can drop the enige for a T-belt job. But the enigne does need to be dropped to replace 2 of the O2 sensor and valve cover gasket replacement.
Engine just needs to be "lowered" to get to the O2 sensors/downpipes.
Great job Audi-RS6! How about a DIY for the front outer CV boots?:thumb:

[cornishmoocher]

Yup, agree with Snoops, I was obviously still champing about the engine out to read the post fully, When I had mp Dy's de-catted, the grizzmiester, just performed some magic and the pipes were in, the engine was not dropped not even lowered, and I better not say what it is, in case its a trade secret!#

As for your handy- work Rs6 dood, good job, reckon i could do it too....... the 12 pack that is!:thumb::cheers:

[p3u]

I would love to know how to do the DP's without lowering the engine, everyone seems to want to charge 15 hours of labor to do it. How many hours do you do it in Grizz?

[cornishmoocher]

Put it this way, 9am start cam belt, milltek cat back decatt dp's AND a service and i was on my way at 3pm........

Grizz can do a set of coilovers in a couple of hours when the need arises......

[hahnmgh63]

Cornishmoocher, can you just PM us poor yanks the secret as we have no access to Unit 20. I have my car on the lift right now for standard oil change and am thinking about the precats as well, and it is just about time for a rotor/brake change. Anyone have any money tree seeds laying around. I should plant soon and fertilize well.

[DHall1]

Yeah,

Start shorting your stocks. Options work best.

Were getting ready for a 20% pull back as we speak.

DVN dropped 5 or 6 dollars in the last week. If you were short options with reasonable numbers your up about 5,000 dollars.

My .02c


Cornishmoocher, can you just PM us poor yanks the secret as we have no access to Unit 20. I have my car on the lift right now for standard oil change and am thinking about the precats as well, and it is just about time for a rotor/brake change. Anyone have any money tree seeds laying around. I should plant soon and fertilize well.

[hahnmgh63]

Yea, I'm afraid your right, I think the market is getting close to taking a dump again. Crude is up. I've got some money tied up in International stuff that I think I need to move in the next week or so.

[NSU RS6]

There seemed to me to be alot of off topic discussion in this thread, and also lost links to pictures in the first post. So I thought I would update this with my experience. Some say you can extract the filter from the side, past the axle opening, but I was not able to. For me, dropping the sway bar (as done at the dealership) was easy, and makes filter access simple. I still used the access by the axle to spin the filter off and on. These instructions are for those unfortunate souls who not have access to a lift!

Here are the steps I used:

Tools needed (minimum): 1/4" Stubby Standard Screwdriver, Strap Type Oil Filter Wrench, 3/8" Ratchet, T55 Torx Bit w/necessary socket adapter, 13mm Socket, Large Oil Catch Basin.

- Break RF wheel lugnuts
- Jack car at forward jack point with 6" long wood block centered on jack pad (line contact).
- Place jack stand on aft subframe mount, also wood block protected.
- Repeat on opposite side, so car is equally supported at front. (Note: if you have two jacks, lift both sides simultaneously!)
- Move floor jack to in between stands, jack to contact only, for redundancy (best place to store jack for the time being....).
- Remove RF wheel
- Remove belly pan (Thirteen quarter turn "DZUS" fasteners, nine on bottom (metal) and two on each side at wheel well liner (plastic)).
- Drain oil at pan with T55 Torx at drainplug. Drain ten minutes and reinstall plug.
- Move oil catch to under filter.
- Put strap clamp on filter at filter base, through narrow opening at sway bar and loosen.
- Continue to loosen by reaching through the side opening from forward of the drive axle.
- Let drain five minutes without completely removing filter.
- Fully remove filter, let it fall to sway bar and fully drain.
- Loosen four (two each side) 13mm nuts at forward swaybar mounts, and pull down.
- Remove filter.
- Install is reverse of above (leave pan for last, to check for leaks after oil fill and engine start).
- Remove carbon cover on engine to access oil fill. (Push down on two front buttons so they pop up, then lift firmly from the aft sides to lift back of cover off of rubber pegs).
- Fill with 7.5 liters (7.9 qts) of the 5W-40 synthetic oil of your choice.


Good luck!

[RDL K9]

Thanks for the write up. Next oil change is at home.