View Full Version : DRC Service Campaign results from Audi of America
DHall1
May 7th, 2009, 21:11
Well everyone,
I only have a second to post my impression and results. 03RS6 w/30k miles. The DRC was fine all the way up to about 2 months ago. Then it started to leak and the (edge) was lost to the feel of the car.
Results are Perfect! Car is working as designed and the edge has returned to the feel. Ride height is perfect, knock in gone, damping has returned to full strength. Done...moving on.
Key points to remember when your car finally makes it into service. Make sure the dealer knows the proper steps and has the new special tool kit to properly bleed down the air and set the pressure. Also, it helps if the dealer has assigned one person to complete all these DRC repairs because like anything else. DO YOU WANT YOUR TECH TO GET LOTS OF PRACTICE? DO YOU WANT YOUR DOCTOR TO HAVE PERF0RMED 5 OR 500 OF THE PROCEDURE YOUR ABOUT TO GET?
Its not rocket engineering but as many a horror story has outlined ......failures to follow the most basic logic have caused very poor results.
Glad I made the extra effort to get the car up to Audi N Scottsdale. The service experience was very good and the communication was perfect. Even with Penske owning both Phoenix metro dealers...there is a difference and it comes down to people and communication.
AoA was on top of everything. I could not ask for better treatment thru the whole process. Again, it comes down to the people that care about quality and enjoy coming to work every day. That is hard to find these days.
Cheers all.
If your DRC is leaking. Take it in. If its not leaking, then you can wait knowing your tech is getting more practice.
Hy Octane
May 7th, 2009, 21:57
OK. So, when you get a minute, can you give a bit of detail about the ride and if it stays flat on acceleration and braking, or does it nose up/down? Is the ride stiff stiff stiff? How about rebound? Details please!
GEN XER
May 8th, 2009, 00:18
Busy watching the market! LOL! I know I am. LVS is back at a nice entry point but could go lower. WYNN pulled back $3 bucks.AIG reported bad news I'm out tomorrow. DNDN is poised to come back. Just so much happening I can see why you don't have time.
DHall1
May 8th, 2009, 00:48
I can only give my subjective opinion.
Having driven 7 or 8 of these things and owning my car from 24k. Its back to its old self. I dont expect the car to ride on rails or knock my teeth out. But, you also have to understand my point of view. I also know what a proper track setup should feel like and how the damping should react in any given situation. My ride height is right on the money and the car stance is 100% stock level. No knock, height is at spec, edge is back in the suspension=me a happy camper.
It works as designed and is all the car was designed to be. Perfect for my needs. It stays flat and corners flat again. Oh and the rebound is firm without any bounce. None, zero bounce.
On our next run....Greg, are you getting on those dates. We can all take some time and inspect the other cars.
OK. So, when you get a minute, can you give a bit of detail about the ride and if it stays flat on acceleration and braking, or does it nose up/down? Is the ride stiff stiff stiff? How about rebound? Details please!
DHall1
May 8th, 2009, 01:16
We all gave this poor Eric a hard time with the DRC problems.
Now its getting to be time to repay some thanks. I will send him a nice thank you letter.
http://www.rs6.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17125&highlight=drc+audi
snoopra
May 8th, 2009, 04:54
Glad to here you're happy with results. When you get a chance, can you take some pics? Did they replace the rubber mounts/bushings also?
We all gave this poor Eric a hard time with the DRC problems.
Now its getting to be time to repay some thanks. I will send him a nice thank you letter.
http://www.rs6.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17125&highlight=drc+audi
That's a very good idea. I encourage you to do it.
DHall1
May 8th, 2009, 07:11
Thanks Erik,
I wanted to show everyone that I do indeed have a heart. :rs6kiss:
And not always will you find me ranting and raving about this that or the other. :w:
Its not that difficult to make :addict: owners very happy. It just takes people who care about service and act in a professional manner.
Now, I have to go find something new to rant about. Hmmm, :harass:TAXES...that should be a good one. Stop raising my TAXES :w:! I pay enough already. Leave me alone.
That's a very good idea. I encourage you to do it.
"car stance is stock level. ... height is at spec"
Can you post the figures you are basing this on? Might be helpful as others get this service done.
hahnmgh63
May 8th, 2009, 15:31
I would also like to know if the replaced the front & rear strut/shock mounts. A car that is going on 6 years old should have them replaced while the suspension is apart.
DHall1
May 8th, 2009, 15:40
Not on mine at 30k. Upper mounts were fine. Its not in harsh weather but heat may play a factor moving forward.
The upper control arm bushings were all changed. Thanks Fidelity for picking up the tab there.
As for measurements. Every car will be alittle different. Tire differences, wear on those tires, mileage differences ect. I measured before and after on my car and it was the same front and rear. I would suggest taking measurements before and after.
I would also like to know if the replaced the front & rear strut/shock mounts. A car that is going on 6 years old should have them replaced while the suspension is apart.
As for measurements. Every car will be alittle different. Tire differences, wear on those tires, mileage differences ect. I measured before and after on my car and it was the same front and rear. I would suggest taking measurements before and after.
OK. I thought you were going with some specs based on original build. So your measurements before (with leaks and failed DRC) were the same as after the replacement install??
DHall1
May 8th, 2009, 17:03
Every car will be quite different. The rate at which the fluid has leaked will differ from every car.
Mine was fine....then I just started to notice the edge going away from the feel. Under closer inspection there was a leak/seep just starting on the struts. The car still drove fine with only a hint of the clunk from the rear...say 3% of the time you could hear it. Then you could notice the rear of the car easier to compress and a slight noise from the valves.
All of this is subjective. I can give my current fender level at 26.25fr and 26.75 rear but again that will vary from other cars with different tires and wear on those said tires.
If your pressure is completely shot you may see a rise after repair of 1/16 or even an 1/8 of an inch but that purely theory and nobody has any fact on that figure. It should not rise but there is no spec nor data to that point.
Springs set the level and shocks control damping rates.
OK. I thought you were going with some specs based on original build. So your measurements before (with leaks and failed DRC) were the same as after the replacement install??
MalcolmS
May 8th, 2009, 23:42
Part numbers man, part numbers... We need to know the part numbers? :)
DHall1
May 8th, 2009, 23:56
Everyone,
The real point here is this. Make sure your dealer has done plenty of these and make sure the tech knows how to use the special tool.
The proper use of the special tool is key for the whole think to work.
The part numbers are the same. We have beat that horse to a pulp. :argue:
My car is fixed and I need a vacation. :rs6kiss:
Ben74
May 11th, 2009, 18:55
Hi Dave,
I was wondering if you have aftermarket sway bars on your RS6. I'm thinking about getting the Hotchkiss sway bars, but am thinking that I should wait until after I get the DRC recall done. I think my suspension is ok, but I might not know the difference if my DRC was bad since I've only had the car for a little over 2 months. Since you've had the repair done, what would your opinion be on getting the sway bars? Do you think they would be an improvement? Thanks in advance for any thoughts you might have on this!
Ben
DHall1
May 11th, 2009, 19:06
Ben,
How did you know I had the Hotchkis sways? :0:
Yes, yes and yes. You will love them. With or w/o DRC...or even KWs. I would install these sways on my car. Its a big heavy beast with the engine hanging out there like a lead weight. You need all the help you can get.
Hi Dave,
I was wondering if you have aftermarket sway bars on your RS6. I'm thinking about getting the Hotchkiss sway bars, but am thinking that I should wait until after I get the DRC recall done. I think my suspension is ok, but I might not know the difference if my DRC was bad since I've only had the car for a little over 2 months. Since you've had the repair done, what would your opinion be on getting the sway bars? Do you think they would be an improvement? Thanks in advance for any thoughts you might have on this!
Ben
Dave, what exactly was replaced? Just the shocks? Did they install any types of adaptors to accept future connections for repressurization?
I remember reading a copy of a letter (to dealers I think) that mentioned an initial replacement of the central valves and shocks, with any subsequent future DRC service only requiring the shocks.
DHall1
May 12th, 2009, 17:51
Far as I know it was just the new design struts and boots. Do the struts have some special fitting or port? NO The dealer already had the special tool and was able to repressure the central valves. I was told this is a very labor intensive process to repressure and the process bleeds all air from the system at the same time.
http://rs6.com/forum/showthread.php?t=17890&highlight=drc+service+campaign
All I know is the car reacts properly under driving conditions. Balanced and controlled suspension activity and all evidence of any knock is 100% gone.
Dave, what exactly was replaced? Just the shocks? Did they install any types of adaptors to accept future connections for repressurization?
I remember reading a copy of a letter (to dealers I think) that mentioned an initial replacement of the central valves and shocks, with any subsequent future DRC service only requiring the shocks.
Dogsoldier
May 12th, 2009, 19:39
Dave:
Did you do both sways or just the rear?
DuckWingDuck
May 13th, 2009, 01:32
hey, another LA guy! Or is that Louisiana?
And Dave's car has the hotchkiss on the front and rear.
DHall1
May 13th, 2009, 07:21
Some added news and observations.
In my opinion, your better off making sure your dealer has the new, new special tool kit before having these repairs completed. I was talking with Genxer about his car and the methods of repair. It hit me that when your using new central valves and not performing the final bleed and repressure with the special tool....your at the mercy of "whatever" pressure happens to be in the lines when the new valve is opened up. Tech had no way to tell if the pressure was equal or up to spec between each central valve. (correct me if I am wrong here)
When you use the special tool this is a manual process that bleeds and repressures the valve. This way the tech can match the pressure exactly in both valves. Why is that important? Trust me its huge and gets back to the X balance in the whole thing.
The balance on my car is nailed to the ground..... right to left and front to back. Take the opinion for what its worth. Genxer will report tomorrow on his repair. That dealer is also using the new tool and the tech explained the process to Willie. Its a much better method then using new valves without having the tool.
IMHO
:eye:
Hy Octane
May 13th, 2009, 19:24
The biggest problem before the new tool has been getting them to be able to extract all the air from the lines before they hook them up to the CV's. So, when they did hook them up, we had air in the system. As you know, hydraulic fluid dosent compress but air does,. Thus the bouncy rides etc. When properly fixed, the car shouldnt be able to be pushed on and move more than a few cm's.. There should be no dive on braking or squat on acceleration as well as remaining flat around corners at subsonic speeds.. of course, the car will lean at faster speeds but it should be flat when taking a corner at 45-55 etc..and thats with the stock swaybars..
DHall1
May 13th, 2009, 19:47
Exactly the reason I posted my observations above. I would not have my car done unless the dealer has the new special tool. Its better than the old procedure of just replacing the central valves.
Not only that but now the tech can actually verify the balance between both central valves and that will make 100% sure that your car is acting correctly as you go over that dip on the onramp at 100mph.
:MTM:
The biggest problem before the new tool has been getting them to be able to extract all the air from the lines before they hook them up to the CV's. So, when they did hook them up, we had air in the system. As you know, hydraulic fluid dosent compress but air does,. Thus the bouncy rides etc. When properly fixed, the car shouldnt be able to be pushed on and move more than a few cm's.. There should be no dive on braking or squat on acceleration as well as remaining flat around corners at subsonic speeds.. of course, the car will lean at faster speeds but it should be flat when taking a corner at 45-55 etc..and thats with the stock swaybars..
Dogsoldier
May 14th, 2009, 16:18
"hey, another LA guy! Or is that Louisiana?
And Dave's car has the hotchkiss on the front and rear."
Yep, Los Angeles.
The reason I was wondering on the sways: my thinking is that just doing the rear would cut down on some of the understeer.
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GEN XER
May 15th, 2009, 02:48
Oh Man! This is Insane! I have never taken a turn at such high speed without body roll before. First with the tool the Tech was able to take pressure up to 22 Bar (319 psi) then bleed it back down to 16 Bar (232 psi), by doing it this way it will eliminate all the air in the system. If this repair holds up we will be fine for years to come. I had 2 hours of drive time from the dealer to my house to get acquainted with the new suspension and let me tell you I likey.
DHall1
May 15th, 2009, 03:41
Willie,
You got your car back today and made a killing on LVS. What more could you ask for? :bigeyes:
Now your riding in the style and control you expected from this :addict:
:cheers:
Everyone-this fix is good if the dealer has the special tool. Dont let them complete this install if they dont have the new, new tool with the manual pump to bleed and induce pressure. Your wasting your time without it.
Oh Man! This is Insane! I have never taken a turn at such high speed without body roll before. First with the tool the Tech was able to take pressure up to 22 Bar (319 psi) then bleed it back down to 16 Bar (232 psi), by doing it this way it will eliminate all the air in the system. If this repair holds up we will be fine for years to come. I had 2 hours of drive time from the dealer to my house to get acquainted with the new suspension and let me tell you I likey.
GEN XER
May 17th, 2009, 03:23
Willie,
You got your car back today and made a killing on LVS. What more could you ask for? :bigeyes:
Now your riding in the style and control you expected from this :addict:
:cheers:
Everyone-this fix is good if the dealer has the special tool. Dont let them complete this install if they dont have the new, new tool with the manual pump to bleed and induce pressure. Your wasting your time without it.
Yes and I hope Monday brings more from LVS and DRYS.