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View Full Version : Oil Catch Can needed?



snoopra
March 10th, 2009, 17:21
Surfing a S4 forum the other day, saw a DIY post on installing an oil catch can. Do you guys think we need this mod?:vhmmm:

Aronis
March 10th, 2009, 17:26
Ok, I'll bite...WTF is an Oil Catch Can?

Mike

hahnmgh63
March 10th, 2009, 17:48
Catches some of the extra oil blown throught the PCV system. Helps keep the intercoolers and intake tract clean and from the technical side, it can keep your octane reaching the cylinders higher by not being diluted with oil residue/mist.

snoopra
March 10th, 2009, 17:48
Oil Separator / Catchcan is used to "catch" blowby oil from the engine vent (engine vents to air intake) and route it back to the engine sump (drain to sump has a valve). I've read that the mod is useful for people who track alot. Catchcan helps reduce oil consumption.

DHall1
March 10th, 2009, 18:38
I have read that Audi 4.2 PCV to be suspect. Not really had the time to look into it nor check my blowby to see if its worth doing.

Blowby will lower the performance of the intercoolers.




Oil Separator / Catchcan is used to "catch" blowby oil from the engine vent (engine vents to air intake) and route it back to the engine sump (drain to sump has a valve). I've read that the mod is useful for people who track alot. Catchcan helps reduce oil consumption.

hahnmgh63
March 10th, 2009, 18:47
Not sure if it affects ours but the 4.2's had problems in freezing WX with moisture freezing in their vavles. Not sure if its the same valve as ours but our placement is different. The RS6 valve is the same as my 225bhp tt, as well as the diverters, ignition coils, etc... About the same specific output as the RS6, actually slightly higher being that it is a 1.8t.

terrytcl
March 10th, 2009, 19:13
it may be a little difficult to plumb in a catch can into the pcv system, but doable. i'd also get two, since there are two lines from the pcv going to the inlet of the turbos

i changed out the pcv valve last weekend... my rs6 has 70k miles... and the pcv valve looked like it was caked with oil gunk. i have some pictures of the old pcv valve. cleaned out some of the pcv system lines... definitely a lot of oil gunk or oil from blow by. i'd love to disconnect the entire tubing and intercoolers to clean them out, but there's almost no room to disconnect the clamp coming from the charge side of the turbo. i tried finding the hook up point of the pcv system to the inlet and intake manifold... no luck... probably be possible if you remove the intake manifold.

terrytcl
March 10th, 2009, 19:17
it can keep your octane reaching the cylinders higher by not being diluted with oil residue/mist.


definitely true... since it's raw oil mixing with your gas/air mix... it lowers your octane potency of your fuel... in turn increases the chance of detonation. when i removed my plugs, i definitely could see evidence of varnish build up from oil getting into the cylinders.

GEN XER
March 10th, 2009, 20:44
What the catch can is actually catching is called Reactive Hydrocarbons which burn out of the oil at normal engine temps and travel through the PCV valve in the form of a mist. What if there was an oil that through the process of its manufacturing ensured that all the reactive hydrocarbons were removed before hand, then not only would there be no need for the catch can but the PCV valve would remain dry as well. Well luckily the oil does exist, I have been using it in my vehicles for over two years in my SRT8, VR6, 73 Vette, 2xBikes, Xb, and soon the RS6. I have not personally verified the catch can issue, but if there are no hydrocarbons then there can be nothing to for the catch can to catch.


A segment from the webpage:

QuantumBlue(TM) Lubricant Oils are the ultimate leap beyond any lubricant oils available at any price. They are formulated using a highly refined sweet crude mineral base that is hydrotreated, hydrocracked, and regenerated over and over and over again to produce a synthetic size molecule but out of mineral base. All the reactive hydrocarbons are taken out of the oil. We take a 6' x 6' steel panel and heat it up to 600 Deg F and splash basestock on it for 24 hours. If there is any measurable hydrocarbons on the panel, the batch is sent back for more regeneration.

You can read more about it here http://www.bndautomotive.com/ (http://www.bndautomotive.com/)

tags63
March 10th, 2009, 21:36
Hey Willie!!!

Now that is quite interesting about that oil. I'll have to check it out. I use a catch can on my SRT Jeep and it works wonders. Keeps alot of excess oil out. People can't believe how much until they see it for themselves.

:addict:

GEN XER
March 11th, 2009, 01:35
Hey Willie!!!

Now that is quite interesting about that oil. I'll have to check it out. I use a catch can on my SRT Jeep and it works wonders. Keeps alot of excess oil out. People can't believe how much until they see it for themselves.

:addict:

I can. Im a member of the Jeep SRT8 forum so Ive seen how much the can catches. Are you using the Billet Tech catch can?

tags63
March 11th, 2009, 02:38
Hey!!!
I went with Elite Engineering anodized red. I didn't like the engraving on top of the BT. I know pretty lame..........

:addict:

terrytcl
March 11th, 2009, 15:24
i can't remember which one i had on my jgcsrt 8... in a month, i remember draining out about 4 tablespoons.

snoopra
March 11th, 2009, 15:52
I started this thread do to an observation during my turbo hose replacement. There were a slight oil film in the intercooler bottom hoses. Also, does anyone know where I can get the intercooler "fin" cleaning supplies? I know there's a product A/C techs use to remove dust and debris from the cooling fins, but I can't remember the name.

terrytcl
March 11th, 2009, 15:56
I started this thread do to an observation during my turbo hose replacement. There were a slight oil film in the intercooler bottom hoses. Also, does anyone know where I can get the intercooler "fin" cleaning supplies? I know there's a product A/C techs use to remove dust and debris from the cooling fins, but I can't remember the name.


where you able to get the hose from the turbo to the intercooler off? i was looking at it last night and there's no way i can get anything in there to loosen the clamp. it's right up against the subframe.

if you're able to get all the hoses off, i'd recommend dropping the intercooler and having it hot tanked. it'll remove every oil residue inside and also all of the other junk on the outside and on the fins.

snoopra
March 11th, 2009, 21:11
I just removed the middle piping (between intercooler and turbo) and align clamps to be tighten/loosened with a "Z" shaped screwdriver. What's involved in Hot Tanking? My car has the warm weather package so it came with the extra radiators. Pulling the intercoolers is a big job due to the radiators being rivited to the intercoolers.

terrytcl
March 11th, 2009, 21:25
hot tanking is done by engine rebuild shops. they take your part / engine / anything metal and dip it into a heated acid solution bath. it basically strips all of the oil and grime off of it.

or you can clean it the cheap and dirty way, buy a bunch of brake cleaner and spray the inside of the intercooler from the top and let the oil residue wash down and out of the bottom. let it air dry and replumb the silicone hoses.

p3u
March 12th, 2009, 00:08
it may be a little difficult to plumb in a catch can into the pcv system, but doable. i'd also get two, since there are two lines from the pcv going to the inlet of the turbos

i changed out the pcv valve last weekend... my rs6 has 70k miles... and the pcv valve looked like it was caked with oil gunk. i have some pictures of the old pcv valve. cleaned out some of the pcv system lines... definitely a lot of oil gunk or oil from blow by. i'd love to disconnect the entire tubing and intercoolers to clean them out, but there's almost no room to disconnect the clamp coming from the charge side of the turbo. i tried finding the hook up point of the pcv system to the inlet and intake manifold... no luck... probably be possible if you remove the intake manifold.

I have about the same mileage on my beast, and it sounds like I sould replace my pcv valve as well. Could you tell me where it is located and what the part number ( and price) is?

Notice any difference once replace?

Thanks!

snoopra
March 12th, 2009, 01:35
hot tanking is done by engine rebuild shops. they take your part / engine / anything metal and dip it into a heated acid solution bath. it basically strips all of the oil and grime off of it.

or you can clean it the cheap and dirty way, buy a bunch of brake cleaner and spray the inside of the intercooler from the top and let the oil residue wash down and out of the bottom. let it air dry and replumb the silicone hoses.
Do you know the % acid content?

hahnmgh63
March 12th, 2009, 04:05
Hot acid is fine for cast iron but don't do it with aluminum or it will be gone!

terrytcl
March 12th, 2009, 18:22
i'm not sure about the acid content.

they used to do this a lot for radiators.

i know most machine shops that use a mild acid solution to quickly degrease parts.

i've had a lot of intercoolers cleaned out by machine shops both automotive and non-automotive in specialty. no problems with both.
let's just say i've gone through a quite a bit of intercooler variations back in the day :)