Front Brake Pad DIY....PINS

[Aronis]

Well, I just finished changing my front brake pads, Passenger side only....

When I got to the driver's side I found that the PINS were flush with the caliper surface and thought WTF?.:doh: ..Wheel rub???? No, plenty of clearance there. What could it be?

I came to the conclusion that the previous person who changed the brakes must have had to drill out the pins and that flush look was the filling placed in the drilled holes. That was at the dealer. I wish I had looked at this side first. Moreover I wish they had told me they had to 'drill the pins' out, I would have asked, "What does that mean?", etc....and perhaps insisted on a new set of calipers?

After trying to drill them out I gave up since I had no idea just how far I could drill without screwing up the caliper.

Also, on the passenger side the inner lower pad backing plate was stuck under the lower spring plate.:w: . That made getting that particular pad out a little challenging, but done.

So, you guys with more experience with this, please take me through it...

What's the proper process of "drilling out the pins?"

What size Drill Bit? Do you drill through (and thus kill the pin) or part way?

I am going to order new pins on Monday and perhaps a new caliper for the driver side:eye:

The passenger side is fine, but the warning light is still on since the driver's side pads are not new!

Thanks,

Mike

[DHall1]

Just to clarify.

PINS = The 2 "nail" looking spikes that hold the spring plates on top of the brake pads. Correct. ?

Next, "flush with the caliper surface" I assume the pointed part of the pin is not sticking thru the caliper so that you can tap on it with a hammer. Correct. ?

If my understanding is correct above. What exactly can you see in the hole where the tip of the pins should be sticking thru? Just trying to understand why someone would get a drill out if the pins were frozen the last time.

I would just use a "punch" that was the same diameter of the hole in the caliper to force out the pin.

Can you see any hole in the caliper at all?

Given the above, even if the pins were mushed from the last brake job I would think you could still see the hole in the caliper. I would then measure the hole and go get a punch the same size or just smaller and use the punch to knock it out.

Drill is the last option due to damage potential.

Can you take any pics





Well, I just finished changing my front brake pads, Passenger side only....

When I got to the driver's side I found that the PINS were flush with the caliper surface and thought WTF?.:doh: ..Wheel rub???? No, plenty of clearance there. What could it be?

I came to the conclusion that the previous person who changed the brakes must have had to drill out the pins and that flush look was the filling placed in the drilled holes. That was at the dealer. I wish I had looked at this side first. Moreover I wish they had told me they had to 'drill the pins' out, I would have asked, "What does that mean?", etc....and perhaps insisted on a new set of calipers?

After trying to drill them out I gave up since I had no idea just how far I could drill without screwing up the caliper.

Also, on the passenger side the inner lower pad backing plate was stuck under the lower spring plate.:w: . That made getting that particular pad out a little challenging, but done.

So, you guys with more experience with this, please take me through it...

What's the proper process of "drilling out the pins?"

What size Drill Bit? Do you drill through (and thus kill the pin) or part way?

I am going to order new pins on Monday and perhaps a new caliper for the driver side:eye:

The passenger side is fine, but the warning light is still on since the driver's side pads are not new!

Thanks,

Mike

[DHall1]

Side note:

How did your rotor surface look? Did you think about resurfacing the rotors?

Are you using EBC Red pads or stock?

Good luck

[Aronis]

Thanks,
The surface was flush, had been filled with something.
I tried drilling a little and then tried using a punch, but neither pin would budge. I tried rotating the pins with a vice grip, no go.

I am using stock pads.
Rotors have life in them, and changing them is easy also (assuming the bolts on the calipers are not WELDED in LOL).

Oh, well.....

Thanks for the input.

Sorry, no pics of the problem pin side. Did take a picture of the improperly placed backing plate....

Mike

[DuckWingDuck]

Grizz mentioned several weeks ago that occasionally he would have to drill out the pins on the RS6s that he services, perhaps sending him a message to ask for him to chime in?

[grizz]

Hi Guys , It's a common problem hear as they put salt on the roads ..

I've had to drill a few set's out .
I always remove the caliper and mount in in the vice.
They tend to seize on the inside of the caliper where the pin becomes bigger .
I just use a small bit and work the pin carefully.
The pin sets are only £15ish a set ( 1 set per caliper)

Once out clean the 3 screw heads and remove the upper & lower pad plates .
Remove all the oxidisation and refit the pad plates ...


I hope this helps. G

[Aronis]

thanks. Great info. I figure bench top drilling would be better but would require draining brake fluid etc? I started by using a larger bit to try to better see the center of the pin but that did not show me much. Then I used a bit smaller than the pin but gave up since I did not yet pick up a new set of pins.
From the first look I thought the pin had been peened over so by over drilling I could remove the peen and pop the pin out.

I fear on Monday I'll be ordering a new caliper. LOL.

I'll get new pins and give it a go. If I over drill I'll use a nut and bolt instead of the pin. Mums the word.

Mike

[DHall1]

Mike,

This "filling" in the caliper holes has me worried. What in the world could they use that would stand up to the brake heat? And shouldnt it be a different color? You can see the color diff and just punch it out??



thanks. Great info. I figure bench top drilling would be better but would require draining brake fluid etc? I started by using a larger bit to try to better see the center of the pin but that did not show me much. Then I used a bit smaller than the pin but gave up since I did not yet pick up a new set of pins.
From the first look I thought the pin had been peened over so by over drilling I could remove the peen and pop the pin out.

I fear on Monday I'll be ordering a new caliper. LOL.

I'll get new pins and give it a go. If I over drill I'll use a nut and bolt instead of the pin. Mums the word.

Mike

[Aronis]

Dhall1,

It was dark grey near black...but different...

Grizz,

On the drilling out process...do you usually just need to drill out the outbounds side or does the inner side (with the wide end of the pin) get stuck also????

I am going to buy new pins today and figure on finishing the job this evening...If I drill out and screw it up, it's new caliper city..LOL>.

Mike

[grizz]

Drill the inner part of the pin out .

[Aronis]

Yes, I started with a bit which was a little bigger than the pin in order to clean out the usual tappered hole that is there, and then I figured I would be able to see pin vs caliper and then used a drill bit about 2 mm smaller than the pin....

What about cutting the pin from the inside leaving it sticking out about 1 inch, then pull the retaining clips out and then PULL on the pin from the inside? Wiggle with a vice grip?

I think drilling will be better.

I spoke with the service department that did the last brake job, about 1 1/2 years ago. They did not have a notation about drilling out the pin in their records but said it is not that uncommon to have to drill a pin out!

I ordered the parts today, and picked up a set of rears. Apparently the rear brake pads are the run of the mill pads in an A6 and A8.

Funny the diagram on their parts department computer showed a sensor wire for the rear pads, but the service book does not and I do not recall there being a sensor on the rears when I last changed the wheels (clean brakes etc winter tire change over). I varified with the RS6 dealership and the part number was the same and they varified that the drawing was wrong. We will see when I start pulling the rears appart..

Thanks for your help. I should have the parts by the end of the week but I am oncall this weekend and need the car, so will wait until next week to play..

Mike

[Aronis]

I finished the Driver's Side....

Well....

Let's see...."if the pins are stuck you have to Drill Them Out."



NOT.....


As it turns out you can simply remove the Caliper and replace the brake pads from the inside. Yes it is tricky to get the backing plates in place, but makes drilling the pins out unnecessary.

After drilling the outside part of the pin, I found that the inner part was also frozen. So I had to remove the Caliper in order to work on the other side. This side requires more careful drilling as there is a step in the hole size that holds the pin. I was happy to be able to drill out both ends without damaging the caliper.

For the bottom pair of pads I just pulled them from the inside, put in the new spring plates (since I bought the new pins and retaining spring plates), put the new backing plates and then pads in. The backing plates were difficult to get in, even after cleaning the caliper. The problem is the lower Spring Clip (which is supposed to come with the Pins and Spring Plates as per the parts guy). As the brake wear dirt gets under the lower and upper spring clips. As the pad wears and moves in toward the rotor the edge of the spring clip is exposed and dirt gets under it. Tricky to get the dirt out without bending it.


So the bottom line, if the pins come out, great the brake job is a 20 minute job. If they are frozen in, LEAVE THEM, pulled the Caliper off and replace the pads from the inside.

Tomorrow the rears...(slow week)

Mike

[DHall1]

Priceless! :thumb:

Leave it to the doc.

I have not laughed this hard all month.




I finished the Driver's Side....

Well....

Let's see...."if the pins are stuck you have to Drill Them Out."



NOT.....


As it turns out you can simply remove the Caliper and replace the brake pads from the inside. Yes it is tricky to get the backing plates in place, but makes drilling the pins out unnecessary.

After drilling the outside part of the pin, I found that the inner part was also frozen. So I had to remove the Caliper in order to work on the other side. This side requires more careful drilling as there is a step in the hole size that holds the pin. I was happy to be able to drill out both ends without damaging the caliper.

For the bottom pair of pads I just pulled them from the inside, put in the new spring plates (since I bought the new pins and retaining spring plates), put the new backing plates and then pads in. The backing plates were difficult to get in, even after cleaning the caliper. The problem is the lower Spring Clip (which is supposed to come with the Pins and Spring Plates as per the parts guy). As the brake wear dirt gets under the lower and upper spring clips. As the pad wears and moves in toward the rotor the edge of the spring clip is exposed and dirt gets under it. Tricky to get the dirt out without bending it.


So the bottom line, if the pins come out, great the brake job is a 20 minute job. If they are frozen in, LEAVE THEM, pulled the Caliper off and replace the pads from the inside.

Tomorrow the rears...(slow week)

Mike

[Aronis]

I am glad you can laugh...

What made me Laugh was the fact that others have taken the Calipers off and worked on them on a BENCH, thus must have disconnected the lines (thus had to reconnect and bleed).

But if you are going through the trouble of taking the caliper off, surely at least ONE of the four pads had to have fallen out and landed on at least ONE of their ten toes. LOL.

Any way, the biggest pain is the backing plates. What are they for? I assume for extra play incase the pistens get stuck to the back side of the actual pad? Any insight?

Mike

[DHall1]

That's what made me laugh.

"What made me Laugh was the fact that others have taken the Calipers off and worked on them on a BENCH, thus must have disconnected the lines (thus had to reconnect and bleed)."

So many others have been there before you and never came to this conclusion.

Now, a couple of things. If you have never encountered this problem.....you would never give thought to the potential solution. And, if your only dead set on fixing the "problem" and having the pin removed...then you would just drill.

Having just done my brakes and not even a glitch with the pins...they popped out so fast it took literally 1 second. I didnt even think twice as to "what if" and a potential solution to a problem that I didnt even see.

But, clearly yours was a different case.

:cheers:


I am glad you can laugh...

What made me Laugh was the fact that others have taken the Calipers off and worked on them on a BENCH, thus must have disconnected the lines (thus had to reconnect and bleed).

But if you are going through the trouble of taking the caliper off, surely at least ONE of the four pads had to have fallen out and landed on at least ONE of their ten toes. LOL.

Any way, the biggest pain is the backing plates. What are they for? I assume for extra play incase the pistens get stuck to the back side of the actual pad? Any insight?

Mike

[Aronis]

Yes, the passenger side was a snap. I was very happy since the design is a great serviceable design.

I notice on newer cars with Brembo's that the Pin is not a Bolt. Probably easier to get out, but any of these parts can become corroded.

I'll have some fun with the rears soon (not enough time today).

Mike

[grizz]

The pads are easily replaced just by removing the caliper .

But as a repairer with a reputation i would never fit pads to a customers car in that way.

The calipers suffer from corrosion in the uk , So they get stripped and cleaned when the pads are replaced .

[DHall1]

Nice job.

As I wrote in my situation #2 above. Some folks will just want to do it 100% and drill that pin out and clean everything up.




The pads are easily replaced just by removing the caliper .

But as a repairer with a reputation i would never fit pads to a customers car in that way.

The calipers suffer from corrosion in the uk , So they get stripped and cleaned when the pads are replaced .

[Aronis]

I had no problem cleaning the caliper completely....the only thing that was not clean was the one pin I could not remove.

Yes, I too like to do it right, so I intend to drill out the bottom Pin in two weeks (on the weekend)...I just had to get the car functional....

Mike

[Aronis]

Dhall,

That's one clean undercarrage...is that a brand new car?

I finished the rear's yesterday.

Very easy....

Accept the EVIL two word Combination feared by all DIYselfers...

"Special Tool"

Once I figured that you have to Compress AND turn at the same time, the other side was a snap. Usually the resetting of the parking brake is independant of the compression of the pisten. In this car they have to be done at the same time. That Special Tool basically turns and compresses with the Turn of a knob..

Mike