EBC Red pad install question

[DHall1]

All,

For those who have watched or done this.

1. Do you re-use the stock steel backing plate on each pad?

[grizz]

Don't use them , Mine lasted 3,000 Miles

[DuckWingDuck]

dave, we tried to fit them on but most of the pads wouldn't go in with the plates. And it looks like the EBC pads has 'em pre-installed.

[DHall1]

Grizz- I hear ya buddy. But, I need my question answered.

Stock pads have a 2 plate backing plate. 1 plate is stuck to the pad, the other plate comes off.

EBC/Reds have a plate glued to the back of the pad only.

My question. Do I also use the stock 2nd or "loose" plate and place it on the back of the EBC pads then install? It seems to be too wide to fit in the caliper when this is done.





All,

For those who have watched or done this.

1. Do you re-use the stock steel backing plate on each pad?

[DuckWingDuck]

ya, as i mentioned above, the stock steel backing plate won't fit

[DHall1]

Thanks Greg.

Hey, I had all 4 rotors done this week. I just picked them up. Very nice job on them. I will update you on how the final install goes this weekend.

I also plan to detail all the wheel wells and underside of the car this weekend. I will snap some pics.

Perfect time to detail the wheel wells when your doing brakes. All the components are opened up and easy to clean.



ya, as i mentioned above, the stock steel backing plate won't fit

[mmaturo]

Thanks Greg.

Hey, I had all 4 rotors done this week. I just picked them up. Very nice job on them. I will update you on how the final install goes this weekend.

I also plan to detail all the wheel wells and underside of the car this weekend. I will snap some pics.

Perfect time to detail the wheel wells when your doing brakes. All the components are opened up and easy to clean.

You are nuts (wheel well cleaning) but i certainly respect it and wish i had a real garage to take car of my car to that level...no such luck in condo highrise living, anyway on the pads this is the first time i've bought reds but have had three sets of yellows and used their plates as they came every time. No issues and i was using those for the track.

[DHall1]

Haha, yes I admit. Kinda nuts. Given your climate, it would be nice to do in the spring to get all that salt out of the nooks under the car. Mine only has 28k and never in any bad/harsh weather. So its easy to just soap it up and use the proper brushes and scrub pads. Then after cleaning there are products that actually "seal in the undercarriage" its a spray conditioner sealer. Chemical Guys-bare bones or Meguiars trim detailer spray. Both of these products make all of your plastic under covers look like brand new. And all the suspension components look brand new as well. Its really quite amazing.

Thanks for the EBC tip. I will install just the EBC pads the way they come in the box.



You are nuts (wheel well cleaning) but i certainly respect it and wish i had a real garage to take car of my car to that level...no such luck in condo highrise living, anyway on the pads this is the first time i've bought reds but have had three sets of yellows and used their plates as they came every time. No issues and i was using those for the track.

[Aronis]

Funny I read the brake pad change procedure on the CD rom and there was no mention of a removable plate. I had a pad out to look at it a few weeks ago, and did not notice any second plate. I'll have to look closely when I do the brakes this March.

Mike

[hahnmgh63]

Mine didn't have any removeable plates either. I have seen some Porsche brembos with a plate which is suppose to deaden sound (squeal), maybe some RS6's had these?

[DHall1]

What I took off were Audi pads. They have a Pagid part number on the back. I will get those tomorrow.

I will snap some pics of the pads in question and get them posted tomorrow.



Mine didn't have any removeable plates either. I have seen some Porsche brembos with a plate which is suppose to deaden sound (squeal), maybe some RS6's had these?

[DHall1]

Ok, for the nuts out there. Before and after.





You are nuts (wheel well cleaning) but i certainly respect it and wish i had a real garage to take car of my car to that level...no such luck in condo highrise living, anyway on the pads this is the first time i've bought reds but have had three sets of yellows and used their plates as they came every time. No issues and i was using those for the track.

[DHall1]

Couple more

[DHall1]

And here are the brake pad plates in question.

The only problem with some of the thoughts above are that you could not use these Audi/Pagid pads without the backing plates. The design causes the plate to be the correct width to fit in the caliper.

I cant see how you could not have the plates with these stock pads.




What I took off were Audi pads. They have a Pagid part number on the back. I will get those tomorrow.

I will snap some pics of the pads in question and get them posted tomorrow.

[LIRS6]

Similar plates already fixed to the EBC red fronts, rears come with plates that you adhere onto them - I just rcvd them, not installed as yet.

[DuckWingDuck]

dave, how much of the top of the pad did you have to dremel off?

[hahnmgh63]

I didn't have to dremel off anything at the top, only in the front middle of the pad where they go around the centering pin.

[DuckWingDuck]

Right, that's what I was talking about. I really should've taken some photos because my friend and I dremeled off a LOT of it. At least a good inch.

[DHall1]

I didnt take a picture but no way was an inch needed.

If your looking at the pad from the backing plate. Each brake pad is just about a square block. Along one of the sides (the side that goes into the caliper first) there is a U cut into the backing plate. Its the sides of each U that need to be opened up alittle. A wider U to fit over the centering pin of each caliper.

We are taling about less than 1mm total. Not 1 inch.

If too much of the U is ground out. You will have brake pads that will wobble and make all kinds of racket because they will be loose.

Now, for those that have said you only need to remove just the paint on the backing plate. NO. You need to remove just alittle more and into the metal just alittle. Like I said, no more than 1mm total from both sides of the U.







Right, that's what I was talking about. I really should've taken some photos because my friend and I dremeled off a LOT of it. At least a good inch.

[hahnmgh63]

Whoa, I would have to agree with DHall1 in my experience. Just a little off either side of the U shaped cut in order for them to fit on the centering pins freely but not real loose. Too tight and uneven wear or dragging of the pad will occur.

[DHall1]

Another good point. "Too tight and uneven wear and dragging."

I made very very sure the pad was able to "glide" along the centering pin. Its not enough to just get it to fit over that pin. It must slide back and forth freely.

Glad to see another DIYer that likes things perfect. You would only know this point if your hands were in there doing the work.
:rs6kiss:



Whoa, I would have to agree with DHall1 in my experience. Just a little off either side of the U shaped cut in order for them to fit on the centering pins freely but not real loose. Too tight and uneven wear or dragging of the pad will occur.

[V8weight]

I just finished installing my Red Stuff pads on all four corners. My fronts were still at 8mm of thickness and those rivets were already through, wearing into the rotors. This was kind of surprising, 2mm into the pad and there is metal to metal contact, which explains that awful squeel. I hardly had to remove any material from the pads to get a nice fit on the front caliper, just a light filing and they glided nicely.