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View Full Version : Going to replace N75 valve. Which version would you recommend?



Bigglezworth
January 14th, 2009, 00:13
I've had a problem with performance for the last short bit and attribute it directly to a pair of error codes I get for the secondary air system. As such I've picked up a nice pair of milled aluminum Diverter Valves that I planned on swapping out this weekend. While I have the air cleaner assembly off the top of the engine accessing the valves, I thought I would also put in a new N75 wastegate bypass regulator valve. Also going to rip off all the crappy rubber hoses that seem to crack and leak with some quality silicone hoses.

That said I phoned my local Audi stealer and confirmed they don't have one in stock. They can order it at a cost of $186.00 and I could see it in a week. This is for a 034-906-283-J valve. Im curious on what the stock replacement item is for the RS6 as the parts guy didn't seem to have any spec info for me. I did some minor reading on the net and on the APT site they show two different models of the valve. The 'H' and the 'J' spec. I know of other releases used on other Audi/VW engines such as C, D, E, K, etc. Anyone have an idea of what the 'stocker' valve costs from your local dealer? Is this a situation where I as a Canadian get raped - just because?? lol

Who has had personal experience with replacement of the N75 valve and which spec did you put in. Looking for feedback to best ascertain what works best with the 4.2 and more specifically the twin turbo 4.2 in the RS6.

Please pardon me if this has been discussed to death already on various forums. The discussions on RS6 that I could find merely cite owners changing them out either as preventative maintenance (my case while I have things apart), or in repsonse to things like thrust sensors or divertor valves not solving their problem. None of the posts talked about different performance specifics from the different models available nor personal experiences such as boost gains, ECU problems, limp mode, etc.

Tim

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The N75 valve is the link between boost and the wastegate, when the ecu sees the boost it wants it pulses the N75 and which opens and controls the wastegate.

Each N75 valve reacts a little differently. Commonly referred to as the race valve, the benefits of the "J" valve are higher boost spikes and holding boost longer throughout the rpm range.

Price: $98.95

The N75 valve is the link between boost and the wastegate, when the ecu sees the boost it wants it pulses the N75 and which opens and controls the wastegate.

Each N75 valve reacts a little differently. The most common benefits of the "H" valve are, smoothing boost response to help aid "surging" issues on modified cars and holds boost longer into the rpm range.

Price: $89.95

hahnmgh63
January 14th, 2009, 01:34
I asked the same question and Grizz said stick with the stock 078-906-283B so I did. I know different VAG models seem to either improve or get worse boost characteristics depending on the valve. My old S6 had the 'H' valve stock and it was a '96 so the higher suffix letter doesn't have a thing to do with improved. It is all based on the resistance of the solenoid in the valve which determines onset and maximums. The H and J are common stock and aftermarket items on many models and the 1.8T guys seem to go for one or the other, and because of this, they are more easily obtained (cheaper too). As I said, I took Grizz's advice and stuck with stock.
I also replaced many of my vacuum lines with silicone a few weeks ago while I was in there. It is hard to tell when there is damage to one of the stock cloth covered lines and some of mine showed deteriorating cloth. As far as your error codes, I am no expert but I think the secondary air system is for the secondary air injector pump which should be startup emisssions related and shouldn't affect your performance? Anyone want to chime in on this one? www.worldimpex.com (http://www.worldimpex.com) has the 'C' valve for $116.83us. You do not have to pull your air cleaner to do the diverter valves. They can easily be accessed by removing the carbon fiber trim panel in front of the air box.