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logpak23
January 2nd, 2009, 13:47
Ok guys i know Audi's have good cooling systems, but it cant be this good. in Virginia it doesn't get so cold that your car will not get warm. last night i was driving in my 2000 audi a6 2.7t, and my water temp was all the way to the left, and so was my oil temp, and this was after an hour of driving.

hahnmgh63
January 2nd, 2009, 14:13
Did your heater work Ok? I am wondering if it was just a reading or actual.

logpak23
January 2nd, 2009, 16:23
Did your heater work Ok? I am wondering if it was just a reading or actual.

my heater works, but its not HOT, its warm, and the reading does work because it will heat up when driving around town, but on highway driving it cool all the way down

KK265
January 2nd, 2009, 16:56
[QUOTE=logpak23;148926 and this was after an hour of driving.[/QUOTE]
Your car has problem.A valve remains open all the time and allows cooling fluid to cool continiously the engine.

grizz
January 2nd, 2009, 19:51
You need a new thermostat . Grizz

Roger
January 2nd, 2009, 20:25
You need a new thermostat . Grizz

Yes - a do-it-yourself fix

Bigglezworth
January 3rd, 2009, 01:28
Usually easily rectified by anyone that is a DIY'r. I've provided a bit more to consider as you perform a final diagnosis so that you are better prepared for what needs to be done as part of your repair.

1. Ensure your fluid level is full in the radiator and topped up in the overflow canister. If you are low on fluid you will entrap air inside the engine. Air doesn't flow well through the cooling system until it becomes steam and then it tends to blow things apart from the pressure.... If you were really quite low on fluid, ensure you run the car until it's at full operating temperature as you top up the radiator (can be confirmed when the top hose to the radiator becomes hot as fluid dumps from the engine via. the thermostat) and keep running to circulate the fluid for another 10 minutes following. Ensure your overflow container is filled to the level indicated for HOT operation. After this, put on your radiator cap and tighten ONE notch - do not tighten all the way. Drive the car for another 30 minutes to ensure you have bled off any air that was trapped in the system. Let the car sit 5-6 hours (overnight works best) and then recheck the levels in both the radiator and the overflow canister. The overflow will draw in fluid as necessary that gets displaced when the hot fluid expands and then cools. Once everything is topped up tighten down your radiator cap and you're good to go.

2. Bad thermostat as mentioned already. If you weren't low on fluid as noted in #1, then this is the likely cause of your problem. Unless you are running a highly modified engine and are abreast of all the mechanical modifications, stick with a stock thermostat vs. putting in a cooler one. Follow steps in #1 to ensure you remove all entraped air.

3. If you continue to experience the problem after #1 and #2 were attended to, it is possible that you have a collapsed lower radiator hose. This will prevent cooled fluid from getting into your engine and cause overheating.

Cooler thermostats will pop quicker and start to allow fluid to pass quicker back into the radiator which in turn allows fluid that might not have been cooled off enough yet to circulate back into the engine. This can quickly cause overheating. Given that you didn't indicate you had overheating issues and that your heater was putting out luke warm heat it is highly likely either #1, #2, or a combination of each.

Anyway, sorry to those already in the know with the wordy post. Many people think the cooling system on cars is a closed system because they tighten a cap on the radiator. What is often not known to those less mechanically inclined is that the radiator cap that will bleed off fluid as it gets hot and expands, and then allow that same fluid to revert back into the radiator as the fluid cools and contracts. If the fluid in your overflow canister has evaporated, or you have run your car overly hot on more than one occasion (happens when racing), then you've turned some of that fluid into steam and it's evaporated leaving you with an empty canister than does nothing more than draw in air when your engine heats and cools a number of times.
Best of success with your repair.:mech:

Tim

colfax
January 3rd, 2009, 05:50
yes man you need to change termostat its always open now that is the problem

Aronis
January 3rd, 2009, 19:09
Yes - a do-it-yourself fix


Yes, but just where is the Thermostat on the RS6 engine? I bet it's so hidden you have to pull the engine to change it! LOL....

Mike:lovl:

DHall1
January 4th, 2009, 02:30
Mike,

Close, its under the timing cover and you have to take the whole front of the car off just like your changing the timing belt.

The guy did mention he has a A6 with the 2.7tt. I bet its in the same location.

:doh: 13hr job to change a thermostat. What were they thinking.


Yes, but just where is the Thermostat on the RS6 engine? I bet it's so hidden you have to pull the engine to change it! LOL....

Mike:lovl:

Bigglezworth
January 4th, 2009, 03:37
Mike,

Close, its under the timing cover and you have to take the whole front of the car off just like your changing the timing belt.

The guy did mention he has a A6 with the 2.7tt. I bet its in the same location.

:doh: 13hr job to change a thermostat. What were they thinking.
Yowza!!!!

grizz
January 4th, 2009, 09:44
It's not a 13 hour job ,5 at most .It's a front end off , cam belt covers and then remove the belt ...The thermostat is only £16 !! But you might as well change the water pump and fit a cam belt kit as well.... so £950 all in.

DHall1
January 4th, 2009, 17:48
Grizz,

This brings up a few points that I have always wanted to ask.

13hrs is what the local Audi dealer charges to change the timing belt. Ripoff totally.

If you say 5hrs that sounds more like it.

My questions, what special tools do I need? Can a very good shade tree mechanic do the job himself?

On a scale of 1-10, 10 being a professional mechanic and 1 being someone who can change the oil in a car. I would be an 8.

8 being someone who has changed multiple timing belts on all Toyota/Lexus engines, rebuilt/built several Toyota engines, installed and tuned superchargers, turbo kits, fuel systems, ect, ect. Dropped out and pulled out several engine/trans setups. You get the idea.

Thanks,


It's not a 13 hour job ,5 at most .It's a front end off , cam belt covers and then remove the belt ...The thermostat is only £16 !! But you might as well change the water pump and fit a cam belt kit as well.... so £950 all in.

grizz
January 4th, 2009, 18:10
DHall1 , The job is not technically difficult ,You will need a crank shaft locking pin and a cam shaft locking tool .
These must be used !!!!! I've see people mark the pulley with paint ! ! ! !

Cowboys ......

DHall1
January 4th, 2009, 18:23
Ok then. Thank you.

I will buy the factory manual and have a look at the procedure and what those tools look like.

I have changed timing belts on the most difficult 4 cam Toyota/Lexus V8 engines for years. That engine is not technically difficult either just need to take your time.

I have just had it with the dealers. One prick smart ass after another has been my experience with Audi service folks. For that matter the sales people as well. Not impressed.

Grizz, we need you over here.




DHall1 , The job is not technically difficult ,You will need a crank shaft locking pin and a cam shaft locking tool .
These must be used !!!!! I've see people mark the pulley with paint ! ! ! !

Cowboys ......

Boosted-Bora
January 4th, 2009, 18:50
thermostat is stuck open...better then being stuck closed that's for sure