PDA

View Full Version : EBC redstuff pads do not fit 2003 RS6



Roger
November 18th, 2008, 19:47
I bought EBC redstuff pads and brought my RS6 to the local Audi dealer to install along with new rotors. I just got a call from the service coordinator telling me the pads do not fit. The tech said the notch did not fit the pin it hooks up to (I don't know which of the 8 pads have this problem). So I was forced to go with the OEM Audi pads. Anyone else try EBC??

DuckWingDuck
November 18th, 2008, 20:31
I think a number of guys use yellow stuff

Boosted-Bora
November 18th, 2008, 20:58
I bought EBC redstuff pads and brought my RS6 to the local Audi dealer to install along with new rotors. I just got a call from the service coordinator telling me the pads do not fit. The tech said the notch did not fit the pin it hooks up to (I don't know which of the 8 pads have this problem). So I was forced to go with the OEM Audi pads. Anyone else try EBC??

they dooooooo fit but they need very minor modification you have to slightly dremel out where they sit on the pins in the caliper I have had 2 sets of them and had to modify both but it was no big deal at all. The reason that happens is because they make the pads first then coat them with the paint so there is excess build up that must be ground down to the metal.

Cheers, Drew

Sorry you paid for the stockers

hahnmgh63
November 18th, 2008, 21:01
Just as Boosted Bora said, the notches in the back just need a touch of filing to get them to fit. I don't know how EBC got it wrong. It's easy to do with a standard metal file and the pads are great. NO SQEALING and a little less dusting than stock at 1/2 the price. There definitley for the RS6. When you order the fronts you get 8 pads.

grizz
November 18th, 2008, 21:03
All you need to do is file out the paint in the cut out. TBH The red stuff are sh%t ,Mine lasted 3000 miles !!!!!!!!
I've had yellow fitted for a while with c6 rs6 rotors & phaeton ducts that are much better.

Roger
November 18th, 2008, 21:08
Thanks for the quick reply...I should have asked before I sent it to the delaer, now I'm stuck with OEM pads:(

I remember the good old days when I had time to do this stuff myself.

Boosted-Bora
November 18th, 2008, 21:17
can someone please get em the parts numbers for the yellow stuff as I dont have them and can only find the numbers for the rears

DuckWingDuck
November 18th, 2008, 22:04
http://performance.thepartsbin.com/basket.php?brandid=4074&partid=12&makeid=34&modelid=708&year=2003

rear: Part #DP41470R

front: Part #DP41513R

mmaturo
November 18th, 2008, 22:22
http://performance.thepartsbin.com/basket.php?brandid=4074&partid=12&makeid=34&modelid=708&year=2003

rear: Part #DP41470R

front: Part #DP41513R

I got mine at perfectbrakes.com...used to be the same price at $130 but Ducks site is cheaper at the moment. The yellows work great, buying my 4th set soon.

Roger
November 19th, 2008, 01:09
Thanks, but the OEM pads are on. Do you really think the yellow stuff are appropriate for someone who never tracks the car?

DHall1
November 19th, 2008, 03:27
Sell me your Reds?




Thanks, but the OEM pads are on. Do you really think the yellow stuff are appropriate for someone who never tracks the car?

vangelis
November 19th, 2008, 04:29
Thanks, but the OEM pads are on. Do you really think the yellow stuff are appropriate for someone who never tracks the car?

I've the same question,, I just replaced my pads with OEM and also orderd the yellow stuff, I want the best performance in the street although I won't go for track days.

mmaturo
November 19th, 2008, 05:11
I've the same question,, I just replaced my pads with OEM and also orderd the yellow stuff, I want the best performance in the street although I won't go for track days.

I had yellows for the track but twice just left them on as braking was essentially the same as stock pads, i.e. did not feel any more harsh that i was worried about eating up the rotors (as they get used up so quick regardless it seems to me), and they certainly were waaaayyyy way less noisy...fighting my OEM pads now as well into their life my car sounded like a bus today in colder weather... anyway i would have no issue using the yellows daily. The price point is irresistible when OEMs are 2 1/2 times more.

Cdo
November 22nd, 2008, 14:05
I also want to have the best performance for the street, but no noises and so on. Are the reds / yellow best when they reach a certain level of degrees (like ceramics)? What is the best choice for the street?

/Claus

DuckWingDuck
November 26th, 2008, 20:19
According to perfectbrakes.com, red stuff is "lowest dust formula for this vehicle range".

Anybody know the part numbers of the rotors? Also, should I bother with slotted rotors or just go with regular EBC rotors?

DuckWingDuck
November 26th, 2008, 22:33
hmm, perfectbrakes is telling me that ebc doesn't make rotors for the rs6?? What rotors do folks use out there?

hahnmgh63
November 27th, 2008, 00:51
Factory rotors.

DuckWingDuck
November 27th, 2008, 01:38
so factory rotors with ebc pads. Anybody got the part numbers so I can go search for them bad boys?

Roger
November 27th, 2008, 04:35
The ebc pads are DP31513C. I still haven't sent mine back (I was "forced" to have the OEM's installed). Make an offer:)

vangelis
November 27th, 2008, 08:07
front cross drilled rotor
4B3 615 301 E
4B3 615 302 A

front non cross drilled rotor
4B3 615 301 B
4B3 615 302

rear cross drilled rotor
4B3 615 601 C
4B3 615 602 A

rear non cross drilled rotor
4B3 615 601 B
4B3 615 602

front pads
4B3 698 151 A

rear pads
4B3 698 451

DuckWingDuck
November 27th, 2008, 18:36
cheers on the p/n. Why are there 2 part numbers though? It looks like they are combination or....? And I know we talked about this a while back but really, there's no point in going with drilled right? Especially for the back.

vangelis
November 27th, 2008, 18:48
There are 2 part numbers for the left and right sides, I've heard from so many that drilled is not recommended as it got cracked on high temp and load so I prefer the slotted ones as it cleans the pads and give better performance.

DuckWingDuck
November 27th, 2008, 21:04
got it! Figured as much. On the pads, when one looks at the various sites, what is the quantity to be purchased? I.e. 1 set of the front pads = enough for 2 wheels? Or will I need to purchase 2 sets? I swear this has been covered before so apologies!!

vangelis
November 27th, 2008, 21:38
1 set contains 8 pads for both 2 front wheels ,, the same for the rear 1 set also.

DHall1
November 28th, 2008, 16:50
Everyone,

I can't believe nobody caught this.

"The search button is your friend"

Greg poo-pooed the golden rule.

Doh!
:-)


got it! Figured as much. On the pads, when one looks at the various sites, what is the quantity to be purchased? I.e. 1 set of the front pads = enough for 2 wheels? Or will I need to purchase 2 sets? I swear this has been covered before so apologies!!

DuckWingDuck
November 28th, 2008, 17:52
haha, hey, i did preface with an apology!! And it's the season of forgiveness ;)

DuckWingDuck
December 10th, 2008, 03:16
front non cross drilled rotor
4B3 615 301 B
4B3 615 302

rear non cross drilled rotor
4B3 615 601 B
4B3 615 602

Vangelis, are these P/Ns confirmed? I was talking to my service advisor earlier today and these didn't come up in his system (though on the Audi Parts Depot site it did but one of the rear rotor parts came up as A6/S6...)

DuckWingDuck
December 10th, 2008, 03:17
There are 2 part numbers for the left and right sides, I've heard from so many that drilled is not recommended as it got cracked on high temp and load so I prefer the slotted ones as it cleans the pads and give better performance.

From this it sounds like you are running the slotted (and not crossed drilled P/Ns) that you mentioned above with no problems?

vangelis
December 11th, 2008, 07:05
Hii DWD,, sorry I didn't notice the new post here,, actually these part numbers i got from a friend and some ppl confirmed that are correct,, however,,, here is a link for these rotors on eBay.de for sale and you can contact the seller asking to get the exact part number for them http://cgi.ebay.de/Audi-RS6-plus-Bremsensatz-Bremsscheiben-Bremsbelaege_W0QQitemZ140208164188QQcmdZViewItemQQ ptZAutoteile_Zubeh%C3%B6r?hash=item140208164188&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=66%3A2%7C65%3A3%7C39%3A1%7C240%3A1318

Regarding the slotted rotors, actually I still using the solid ones (not even drilled nor slotted) but I'm planning to upgrade to the slotted ones soon (waiting for some cash to come lool). I've heard from some ppl who used to go in track days that slotted is much more recommended that drilled but I still can see that new Audi models (RS6 & R8) comes with drilled rotors and I do trust their choice ,, so I think it is also good to use the drilled rotors as well. What is your thoughts?

snoopra
December 11th, 2008, 18:33
Vangelis, are these P/Ns confirmed? I was talking to my service advisor earlier today and these didn't come up in his system (though on the Audi Parts Depot site it did but one of the rear rotor parts came up as A6/S6...)
Duck, these P/N are correct, as per parts catalog ETKA 7.1:addict:

vangelis
December 11th, 2008, 22:43
Duck, these P/N are correct, as per parts catalog ETKA 7.1:addict:

Good to hear that,,, btw,, how can I get this ETKA guys?? I really love to have it.

DuckWingDuck
December 16th, 2008, 06:45
)@!#(%NKLN*)$Y#% The friggin' EBC pads were crazy hard to put in and we had to dremel off quite a lot of the brake in order for the pin to fit! I'll try to take a photo soon.

DHall1
January 27th, 2009, 07:12
Everyone, if you need brake pads. Better get them. Most sites are going up to 148 dollars for reds.



http://performance.thepartsbin.com/basket.php?brandid=4074&partid=12&makeid=34&modelid=708&year=2003

rear: Part #DP41470R

front: Part #DP41513R

vangelis
January 27th, 2009, 07:35
Everyone, if you need brake pads. Better get them. Most sites are going up to 148 dollars for reds.

That (http://www.thepartsbin.com/) never works with Paypal checkout, tried to get that pads and it never works for me. Will try from eBay.

DuckWingDuck
January 27th, 2009, 15:44
I've always just paid using credit card. Try to contact them direct.

mmaturo
January 27th, 2009, 17:03
Everyone, if you need brake pads. Better get them. Most sites are going up to 148 dollars for reds.

and they did, figures as i need them now...any site still cheaper?

DHall1
January 27th, 2009, 17:10
I just ordered mine from the site above. No problems on checkout when using a CC.



and they did, figures as i need them now...any site still cheaper?

mmaturo
January 27th, 2009, 17:14
I just ordered mine from the site above. No problems on checkout when using a CC.

Got it...interesting, i clicked on the one in post #34 not realizing its a different site than in your post #33...ordered. Thanks

DHall1
January 27th, 2009, 17:22
Yeah, that is the same company. I wonder how a mirror page with different pricing can exist?

I wonder if we will get our pads? Should we call or wait and see?

Greg-or someone with web ip knowledge explain how this can be?





Got it...interesting, i clicked on the one in post #34 not realizing its a different site than in your post #33...ordered. Thanks

mmaturo
January 27th, 2009, 17:33
Yeah, that is the same company. I wonder how a mirror page with different pricing can exist?

I wonder if we will get our pads? Should we call or wait and see?

Greg-or someone with web ip knowledge explain how this can be?

Wait and see...ordering rears now too as they went up also...

mmaturo
January 27th, 2009, 17:39
and rears ordered too. Seems they would have to honor the price but i do find it interesting that it does still exist and allows the checkout and purchase...kind of wild. If not and they price adjust us its still cheaper than OEM. If this works thanks for the warning as it saved me $40 or more.

DHall1
January 27th, 2009, 18:50
Yeah, I ordered the rears to go along with the fronts just to keep an equal pad brake bias...fr to rr....so that the same pad material is gripping. Not having OE pads on the rear and EBC on the front. If you change one...you should change all. IMHO

I also found a shop that can resurface the Audi rotors. I dont like the idea of just putting on new pads without a fresh cut rotor surface.





Wait and see...ordering rears now too as they went up also...

mmaturo
January 27th, 2009, 19:03
I was just reading a post on Audiworld about turning the rotors on the RS4 forum there, always mixed opinions on doing it or not. I've never done it nor seemingly had an issue as long as the pads bedded ok (and quickly), but i really have no idea. Seems these things get deep grooves instantly that i want to retain as much thickness as long as possible. Then again my rotors have worn out so fast that it didn't seem to matter. I have had the EBCs on the front while OEM on the rears. Never really thought about them needing to match but i guess that is how i go through fronts at a rapid pace as they are doing more of the work than normal if they are more aggressive material.

Well my rear pad purchase was confirmed at the cheaper price by a confirming email accepting the payment, my fronts not yet (i did two transactions after i saw the rears were going up too).

Hy Octane
January 27th, 2009, 19:57
General consensus is that turning the rotors reduces the mass which then increases the chances of warping and even shattering due to thinness etc,.
Not recommended.

DHall1
January 27th, 2009, 21:53
For the most part this is true. However, if you think about it....its routine to just throw pads on the car if the rotors are within spec (thickness). What your doing is throwing a brand new pad that is completely flat on a ridged surface (the used rotor). Your getting maybe 30-40% pad contact on the "ridged" used rotor surface until such time as the pads wear in this same ridge pattern. 10k miles?

I am just looking to "clean up the face of the rotor". As long as the end product is within spec (again thickness) its the same mass and safe. I dont have warped rotors or rotors with large grooves. But, ridges are ridges and new pads will not be making full contact of the rotor face.





General consensus is that turning the rotors reduces the mass which then increases the chances of warping and even shattering due to thinness etc,.
Not recommended.

DHall1
January 27th, 2009, 22:10
My purchase was confirmed as well. At the lower prices.

My purchase is already boxed and ready to go out. I have tracking numbers.

I suggest anyone that needs brakes or is close to needing brakes. 100% of you. Doh To hurry up and snag these at the lower prices.



I was just reading a post on Audiworld about turning the rotors on the RS4 forum there, always mixed opinions on doing it or not. I've never done it nor seemingly had an issue as long as the pads bedded ok (and quickly), but i really have no idea. Seems these things get deep grooves instantly that i want to retain as much thickness as long as possible. Then again my rotors have worn out so fast that it didn't seem to matter. I have had the EBCs on the front while OEM on the rears. Never really thought about them needing to match but i guess that is how i go through fronts at a rapid pace as they are doing more of the work than normal if they are more aggressive material.

Well my rear pad purchase was confirmed at the cheaper price by a confirming email accepting the payment, my fronts not yet (i did two transactions after i saw the rears were going up too).

mmaturo
January 27th, 2009, 22:28
My purchase was confirmed as well. At the lower prices.

My purchase is already boxed and ready to go out. I have tracking numbers.

I suggest anyone that needs brakes or is close to needing brakes. 100% of you. Doh To hurry up and snag these at the lower prices.

Yep my fronts were just approved at 130...awesome...simple thrills in life of saving a little money on this thing. Use the link in post #33 people...quick.

V8weight
January 27th, 2009, 23:42
Just ordered a full set, thanks for the tip;)

Rennstore
February 3rd, 2009, 18:39
For track use, why waste your time and effort on junk. Get pads that are MADE for the task. Pagid Yellows. SAME COMPOUND used by most teams at Daytona, Sebring, LeMans.......

www.Rennstore.com

DHall1
February 3rd, 2009, 19:26
I didnt realize we were talking about track pads. We are not.

I dont know of any RS6 owner ready to go out to LeMans.

I dont like shameless plugs.



For track use, why waste your time and effort on junk. Get pads that are MADE for the task. Pagid Yellows. SAME COMPOUND used by most teams at Daytona, Sebring, LeMans.......

www.Rennstore.com (http://www.Rennstore.com)

hahnmgh63
February 3rd, 2009, 23:52
I have the Pagid Yellow's on my track 911 and yes they are great track pads, take a short time to warm for full effectiveness but they do need a little warmth. And mine do squeal a bit, I have the EBC Red's on my RS6 and I do think for a road only car with occaisonal spirited driving, they are the best pad for that. Quiet, low dust, and very reasonably priced.

mmaturo
February 4th, 2009, 02:19
For track use, why waste your time and effort on junk. Get pads that are MADE for the task. Pagid Yellows. SAME COMPOUND used by most teams at Daytona, Sebring, LeMans.......

www.Rennstore.com

Agree with others and having tracked my RS6 many times my EBC yellows did fine and i'm not running a full race. Do they last a long time (more than a hard track weekend with my late braking style) no, but did they take the abuse for two days of lapping in 30 minute runs, yes. And frankly i don't care when they are so cheap.

GEN XER
February 9th, 2009, 17:59
Well it turns out Zeckhausen does make a pade for the 2003 RS6. I used the Centric Posi-Quiets on my 300 SRT8 which is 1k lbs heavier than this car and these brakes perform great without the dust or the noise. They are easy on the rotors and at $140 per for fronts, they beat even the EBC's. Now I dont have them on my RS6 yet but I will. When I do I will report back to the forum on there performance. Just adding another option.

http://store.zeckhausen.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=44_707_708