Brake costs

[muller]

Hi

My local dealer (Copenhagen) has estimated a price at around €4600 for a complete change of brakes and discs on my RS6. Does anyone know if this is ok? Does anyone know what this would cost in nothern Germany?

br

[gjg]

what's included in this price????

[Rupert]

It's about €1390 for the parts and €2400 for parts and labour in the UK at Audi main dealer rates.

That's for pads and discs, cross drilled front and rear, the lot.

[muller]

Included in the cost is pads, discs and labour. They have to order parts from Germany - none in stock here...

But for €2000 I can pass by northern Germany I suppose :)

[peiserg]

wow! that's crazy expensive compared to the united states.... even if you account for the poor performance of the US dollar. 4600 euros is about $7000 US... A total front/rear brake job here is about $2000, including pads rotors and labor.

I''ve been speaking with a guy here (jimmy stoner) who had custom rotors and hats made for his brake. the hats are separate, so on the next brake job, only the rotor needs replacement, not the whole thing..about 50% less expensive.

[CinciRS6]

Speaking of brakes, how many miles does your rs6 have on it, and did you know that you needed new brakes, or did audi tell you that. For some reason my brakes make a squeeking sound, but its usally only when its real cold out? Is this normal? My dealer told me to get on the brakes harder, but it really doesnt seem to help. How much will new pads cost me if thats the route I need to go, also what pads to they offer that could give me a little bit more of an edge when it comes to stopping?

Thanks to whoever can answer.

[muller]

I'm on the metric system; my car is 96,000 km old. And my (new) dealer (just moved from Stockholm) told me that my brakes (pads AND discs) were in urgent(!) need of replacement. At the big service a year ago (15,000 km ago) in Stockholm, nothing was mentioned on the matter...

[Rupert]

I was told mine were metal to metal and I was advised to leave the car with them and not to drive it home, they said it needed new front pads and discs.
I checked them myself, the pads were not even down to the wear sensors, and the discs were fine for another 6k or so (I measured them with a digital micrometer).

Squealing is normal, or at least very common with the RS6. I had had squealing on the last (original) set of pads and solid discs, and no squealing on this set of drilled discs (only 1k miles old though).

[Aronis]

The Front Brakes wear much more quickly than the rare.
The Front Pads have sensors which will turn the Brake Lining warning light on when they are getting near replacement.
The Rears do not have the warning sensor.

I had my front pads changed at about 28,000 miles and again at about 58,000 miles.
Front Rotors replaced at about 38,000 miles (while DRC being fixed) and the rear pads were changed at some point I think at the 58,000 service.

I've never had a car which eats brake pads and rotors so fast. I put new brakes on a 1981 Honda accord after about 80,000 miles. My Honda CRX I drove for about 65,000 miles, original brakes. My 1994 BMW 325is had about 55,000 miles when I traded for an 1997 M3, and that car had the original rotors and pads. My M3 had about 68,000 miles at lease turn in again on the original brake pads and rotors.

My RS6 has been a surprise, but I understand heavier car, high performace brakes, so I am not complaining, just surprised!

My next brake job will be DIY for sure, since it is really not that difficult and when you have the brake caliper off to replace the pads, the rotor is just a few more minutes work. And while I am there, will probably put on the PSS10s if they come to be for the RS6 LOL.

Mike

[cornishmoocher]

I have just had a set of front drilled disks and a set of front pads on my RS6 Avant. 44k miles. £1042.00. Audi main dealer. Pads get eaten ~(even with moderate carefully driving) unless you upgrade to Movit disks. Not cheap either Movit 6 pot 396x35 disks (front £3400) 4 pot rear 342x28 £1900. (all ex VAT @17.5%).
But what price stopping?
They are next on my list- just had the stage one MTM-now 500hp 690Nm:wo: :D

[muller]

hmmm, I spoke with the mechanic on the phone, he said the wheels almost couldn't be turned (by hand) when the car was on the lift. I'll be going there tomorrow to see for myself. But I'm not that technical, so I guess I don't have much of a choice. But what I can do is try to find a cheaper mechanic...

[Rupert]

I have just had a set of front drilled disks and a set of front pads on my RS6 Avant. 44k miles. £1042.00. Audi main dealer.

You could have had drilled discs and pads front and rear for £2 less than that if you fitted them yourself.

Mike, the front discs are straightforward, the rears require a caliper rewind tool (inexpensive). Also, it's handy to have a torque wrench for the caliper bolts as they can stretch if over-tightened.

[Aronis]

yes thats part of the parking break adjuster. Of course Special tool LOL

[another Russian]

hmmm, I spoke with the mechanic on the phone, he said the wheels almost couldn't be turned (by hand) when the car was on the lift. I'll be going there tomorrow to see for myself. But I'm not that technical, so I guess I don't have much of a choice. But what I can do is try to find a cheaper mechanic... You don't nee to be mechanic to see if it's worn out. Brake discs shoud not have wear treads , polished smothly. Visual comparison to a new one would be a great help. :mech:

[muller]

After seeing the discs and your description I think there should be no doubt. There are clear marks in the discs, wear threads I suppose. And I got some more details about the price: €2.400 for discs, pads and labour, and with (very) high probability around another €1.500 for arms(?). I'm not quite sure, but he said there were 4 arms holding each wheel and some or all of these should maybe be replaced together with the discs (rotors). Does any of you have comments on this? Is this normal practice?

[another Russian]

for 96 000 km it's a must if never had done before.
you should really trust the mechanic not to have any question in a future.
Easy check - lift the wheel on one side with a common jack and holding upper and bottom points try to push back and forth . you'll hear and see if it's not steady. :mech: