Low miles hi $$ or hi miles low $$?

[intended_accel]

Hi all:

My '87 5000 CS TQ is now approaching 250k, and while it just won't die or give me a reason to pasture it, I've been itching for a new ride. Fantastic car. Bought it with 85k on the odometer and it's been nearly trouble free.

For several years I've been tracking the RS6 market. The rather significant unloading of lease-expiring RS6s now has convinced me that the time is right to forfeit the kid's college fund for my benefit. He'll manage just fine without me. The question is, in my mind, do I pay the premium for a low mileage car or take the discount for a maintained high mileage car? Here's my thinking, although I'd very much appreciate yours!

A higher mileage car has had time for the weaker links to break and, hopefully, be fixed. Most issues related to my 5000 were addressed by the first owner; I was the beneficiary of his actions. This might also apply with respect to an RS6, although this I don't know since I am generally unfamiliar with the model history (other than DRC issues, in particular).

The higher mileage cars are in the $30's now. Don't know the interplay with the OEM warranty, but if the car checks out via a KNOWLEDGEABLE mechanic, then I would feel comfortable. If a $5k solution was needed, I wouldn't feel "that" bad, all things considered. However, if I paid $48k, that would be different.

This also raises the issue of an extended warranty. Fluids maintenance is not a problem for me. Suspension bushings are not beyond my skills, but I lack the tech equipment to ensure proper alignment, etc. So, I'm really only worried about things like bad trannys or diffs. Oh, and anything involving the engine ;-)

Also, dealer or private party? And anything else I might need to know before taking the plunge.

So, my basic question to the forum is stated in the subject line, although I'll gladly accept any related comments and/or observations. I thank you all in advance for your thoughts and time. I'd really like to have one of these beasts before year end!


Steve
Seattle

[BLITZEN]

You sound like me. You'll buy a nice car and care for it for years. With that in mind, I wanted the nicest, cleanest car I could find within a reasonable budget. I didn't want one with lots of blemishes that would bother me. Amd I knew if I got a clean one, that I would keep it that way and the extra money I paid for it would be worth it.

Another thought I had was, why spend even $35,000 for something I might not be happy with. The pain of spending an extra $10k for a much nicer car would fade quickly as I smiled every day taking it out of my garage.

If this ends up being your thinking as well, here's a car I think you should consider: http://www.rs6.com/forum/showthread.php?t=13136

Make sure to also read the 'Glut For Sale' thread. Good Luck!

:rs6kiss:

[LIRS6]

My 2 cents: First of all, it is a fantastic car imo - a daily driver for me, schlepp the kid to soccer etc., throw snows on it for a foray into the snows of Vt, and give a 911 or 350Z or such a surprise or two.

Okay, now to address your q's -

Let's start with warranties: Original warranty is 50k/4yrs. As all cars were sold between roughly June '03 and May '04, at best you will find a car that has about 7 months left of original coverage provided the mileage is low enough (say under 40k, depending upon your use). A CPO car will gain you an extra 50k, but only about 2 yrs, of coverage. You can get aftermarket warranties, but watch the fine print - many consider the start date to be Jan 1 of the model year, not the date on which the car was first delivered to the original owner.

If you buy a car with low mileage, you may start to incur some hefty maintenance costs sooner than you would otherwise expect of a low mileage car - example: the RS6 calls for a timing belt change at 35k. This is a costly service which is covered under the basic Audi maintenance plan (4 yrs/50k). But if a car car has, say, only 20k on it, and the 4 yr maintenance coverage has expired without the timing belt change, you will be paying out of pocket about $2500 by some estimates come 35k.

DRC can fail at any time - the "fix" will probably cost about $3k +/-, depending upon number of shocks/central valves that would need replacement. After unsuccessful DRC repairs by my dealer and a lack of interest from AoA, I went the route of Stasis-Ohlins (~$4200 all-in).

Oil changes aren't cheap - the engine requires a specific oil and a costs about $125 at the stealer.

Tranny's are another story, but while there have been reports of failures, they haven't swamped the boards the way DRC failures have.

A BIG concern for me would be a chipped car - warranty voided and, in particular if no tranny chip, then red flags would go up all over the place for me.

Turbos seem to be holding up well.

My major issues to date (42k/3.6 yrs): wiring harness replaced, DRC failure. Otherwise just minor stuff like a headlight washer dying, small leak in an aircon condensor line, and such.

Make sure that you have a convenient dealer with a certified RS6 tech .

Good luck in your decision - and with Audi announcing that the next-generation RS6 will (apparently) not be sold in the U.S., you may have a truly unique car for years to come.:applause: :addict:

[Benman]

Another thought I had was, why spend even $35,000 for something I might not be happy with. The pain of spending an extra $10k for a much nicer car would fade quickly as I smiled every day taking it out of my garage.



I'd have to agree with that statement.

As Blitzen and Lirs6 already brought, there are several things to look for. And that was also a good point about the timing belt.

Keep in mind also, the RS 6 will be far more expensive to maintain than the 5000 was. Factor that in. That said, I love mine, had it for more than four years (Aug 22nd 03') and will nearly have it paid off in the next few months. Have thought about selling it on several occassions, but it is just too special.

And I'm sure up in Seattle, you'll have zero problems finding a dealer with a cretified tech.:cheers:

Ben:cheers:

[intended_accel]

Thanks for the feedback to date. The more the better!

As for the cost of ownership, I am fully aware that it will be night and day. Power always comes at a price. Fortunately, I have moved closer to work, drive a cycle whenever reasonably possible, and otherwise limit the amount of city driving that I do (it's just too damn frustrating). All of these factors minimize the miles I'll be putting on except for longer trips (yahoo!), which should minimize some elements of maintenance, e.g., brakes. Likely a realistic view, but no guarantee. Thus, I am trying to minimize my exposure on the front side (hence my post).

Another question, if I do go for a private party sale, is it possible to purchase a warranty somewhere? Is it a good idea?

Thanks again all.

-S

[BLITZEN]

OK, knowing that I drive a lot was another reason for me purchasing a low mileage car. I can drive high miles for the next four years and it will average out. You could be the opposite of that.

Most people on this site recommend buying extended warranties. Search 'warranty' and you'll find 10 or more posts. You can google it too and find lots of companies that will warranty your car. Prices totally vary. There's no way anyone on this site could tell you exactly, only what they paid.

[Copper]

Yes, you can purchase an extended warranty from Fidelity or Warrantech, both are good and do not exclude the RS6 or RS4 for coverage.


I have Fidelity bumper to bumper and includes DRC coverage.


My $.02 is to buy the lowest mileage best example that you can afford.


I'm on my second used RS6.

[intended_accel]

Thanks Copper. BTW, curious why you are on your second RS6?

As far as vehicles, I'm getting closer. Found an OEM pdf sales sheet for the RS6 on www.archive.org (http://www.archive.org). Helped me to see the color option, feature lists, etc. to help make more sense of the various opportunities. Can't upload as it exceeds the file size for the forum, but can email to anyone interested.