It was on the driver side next to the computer I changed the fuse still nothing and the battery has good power. It's like the car is fried no power whatsoever
It was on the driver side next to the computer I changed the fuse still nothing and the battery has good power. It's like the car is fried no power whatsoever
Ace/Edge TC - Tozo Trans - MTM TCU - REVO/ME7 tune - Wagner IC's w/ Venair Hoses - Aux Radiator delete - Hotchkis Sways - Hawk HPS Pads - Koni Sport Struts - Scroll KO4 Turbos - Devil's Own WM - 421whp/452wtq on Mustang Dyno - http://www.audirssix.com
I doubt it's Canadian and I already tried with the meter. Your right maybe the ecu is fried. Do you have another social network or number? I'll send you a pic of it for some reason I can't post anything on here from my phone or computer
Did you ever fix this.
The RS6 has two main fuses. One supplies the starting and charging ans the other supplies everything else.
It's highly unlikely that you've blown both of them. I thin the charging/starting one is 200A and the other one is 150A.
You say that you used a DVM and checked your battery, correct?
As ttboost said, above the washer fluid reservoir is where there's a little panel that can be removed. This is where the battery positive is, which then supplies the main fuses. Put the DVM probe on this and touch any ground to see if the battery power is making it up to the front of the car.
It's really strange that you've got nothing, as if there's no battery at all. I'm thinking that maybe your ground strap in the trunk is disconnected or broken? Maybe add a jumper cable from the negative terminal to another good ground?
2012 Q7 TDI S-Line - 2010 GTI - 2007 A3 3.2 S-Line - 2003 RS6
2001 Honda S2000 - 1977 Honda CBR 750-F2 - 1965 GMC 1500 WideSide
Was it one of the main fuses on the passenger (right) side by the Pollen filter?
2003 White RS6 2013 Midnight Blue S5
2013 Daytona RS5 2x944 Turbo's 1974 911 w/'91 3.6ltr motor
Roy, WA
Yes it was. It was like a long line of metal then a big ass corroded fuse like nobody ever changed it. If you go on my IG I have a video of the car recently. @spoolin_rs6
Ace/Edge TC - Tozo Trans - MTM TCU - REVO/ME7 tune - Wagner IC's w/ Venair Hoses - Aux Radiator delete - Hotchkis Sways - Hawk HPS Pads - Koni Sport Struts - Scroll KO4 Turbos - Devil's Own WM - 421whp/452wtq on Mustang Dyno - http://www.audirssix.com
Mine are next to the ECU under the plastic box. When removing my alternator I didn't disconnect battery and saw some spark action when removing the 13mm nut. After putting it all back together, it'll crank but won't turn over. Pretty sure I blew the charging/starting fuse, all the smaller fuses in drivers side door are fine. Battery was on charger overnight, kaestner rebuild has new brushes, bearings and VR.
Anyone know which is the starting fuse?
Daytona Grey/ Ebony/Carbon | APR ECU/TCU | Wagner intercoolers, silicone hoses | Clampco T-bolts | APR axel back exhaust | Apikol MAF seal | 18x9.5 STR 609s | 265/35 Michelin PSS | Hotchkis sway bars |
Ace/Edge TC - Tozo Trans - MTM TCU - REVO/ME7 tune - Wagner IC's w/ Venair Hoses - Aux Radiator delete - Hotchkis Sways - Hawk HPS Pads - Koni Sport Struts - Scroll KO4 Turbos - Devil's Own WM - 421whp/452wtq on Mustang Dyno - http://www.audirssix.com
Ace/Edge TC - Tozo Trans - MTM TCU - REVO/ME7 tune - Wagner IC's w/ Venair Hoses - Aux Radiator delete - Hotchkis Sways - Hawk HPS Pads - Koni Sport Struts - Scroll KO4 Turbos - Devil's Own WM - 421whp/452wtq on Mustang Dyno - http://www.audirssix.com
Is the pollen filter different than the cabin filter? If not is it just under the paper filter that's visible in the pic?
Daytona Grey/ Ebony/Carbon | APR ECU/TCU | Wagner intercoolers, silicone hoses | Clampco T-bolts | APR axel back exhaust | Apikol MAF seal | 18x9.5 STR 609s | 265/35 Michelin PSS | Hotchkis sway bars |
Thanks for the thread. My car has had several instances of "just dying" (no lights, no crank, and ECU reset) while the wife was driving it and I think this is probably the problem.
As was stated earlier, there is no fuse for the starter. Those large fuses are for the alternator and all the controls and lights I the car. Basically a main fuse before all the smaller fuses when you open your driver door. I learned this the hard way. I installed a new starter solenoid and the main lug to the starter (one of the posts on the solenoid) was just barely making contact with the oil line above it. It drew so much power into the frame back to the battery, it would appear the car lost all power. This was because of the tremendous voltage drop from a direct short. If necessary, I have a spare , complete battery to starter wire I can lay out so everyone can see what I'm talking about. It runs through the firewall and along the passenger side footwell directly to the + terminal of the battery in the trunk.
I am going through this right now actually. Totally corroded terminals, so bad the positive power lead was hanging by a few strands and ultimately let go. I have to run down and pick up some end terminals for the leads, some new bolts and hardware to screw em back down, clean off some corrosion on the exposed metal pieces. The fuse looks relatively fine, but might as well change it out while the fuse block assembly in in pieces for a cleaning anyway.
Glad to read that you got it running! Excellent.....
Mike
'18 BMW M5, '19 Porsche Boxster GTS
(prior '94 325is, '97 M3, '00 A6 4.2,'03 RS6,'08 A4 Cab,'13 A8L,'15 Q7,'16 BMW M2,