Going by memory here, so anyone correct me if I am wrong. Remove the air box and look behind the drivers side cylinder head area. You will see the green sensor sticking out of a fitting/housing, with the electrical connector on top. Unplug the sensor and move that connector and harness out of the way. Now you should be able to see the plastic "C" shaped clip holding the sensor in horizontally in the "housing" where the sensor resides. CAREFULLY slide that clip out. Good luck if you drop it. I would try to snake a wire around it first, if you can. Once you slide clip out, you should be able to pull straight up on sensor. You might lose a bit of coolant, but just stick a rag or a few paper towels under and around the sensor before you try to pull it out. It really shouldn't be much of a mess, if any at all. Make sure new sensor has O-ring on it (otherwise, reuse the old one), carefully push new sensor back in, slide new clip on (presuming that you lost old one), plug it in, put on air box, drive car, get back on forum and thank us for saving you $900. This should take you 20 minutes, including a 10min break.
2013 Audi S8
Always - this forum is superb. I like to consider that I have payed it forward myself at various times over the past 10 years ... that's what helps to keep us all in our cars, I believe.
Side note - I went to an Indy as suggested here on this forum - Elite Motorsports in Farmingdale, NY. Met one of the owners - asked a few q's related to the RS6 - they have worked on them. Asked him about EGT's, and the procedure they would use to install them. Without missing a beat, he said "drop the sub frame." I think I've found my Indy.
One new issue - driver side seatbelt giving me fits; at times, I am unable to pull the belt out at all. So I start to drive (I feel naked doing so), and typically after a few mins I am then able to pull it out. Any thoughts? Is it correct that seat belts are required by law to be warranted by the manufacturer for the life of a vehicle, i.e. that any required repairs are covered?
TIA
Last edited by LIRS6; April 20th, 2014 at 01:24.
GBNF: Mugello, silver, carbon, RNS-E, H&R coilovers, Hotchkiss
'14 GL550
'79 911SC Targa
Purge valve installed - that took all of ten minutes (cost for valve $54.99 from ECS Tuning) - dealer wanted $401.32
Will tackle coolant temp sensor this w/end
Last edited by LIRS6; April 23rd, 2014 at 20:16.
GBNF: Mugello, silver, carbon, RNS-E, H&R coilovers, Hotchkiss
'14 GL550
'79 911SC Targa
ECS sent me the wrong coolant temp sensor first, so you may want to triple verify part number with them.
And if you need specific coolant temp sens answers message me when you are doing it since i have done it two times over the last couple months.
Okay, so my DIY seems to be a catastrophe:
Purge valve replaced, no further code.
Next day:
I removed the airbox to replace the ECT, which was successfully replaced w/o losing the clip (I had taken heed to everyone's warning, and had drilled a 1/16 inch hole into the clip, and secured dental floss to it, tying the other end to something in the engine bay. Dropped the clip, fished it up no prob).
I then re-attached the air box, started the engine and saw what I believed to be exhaust fumes coming out from the rear of the air box. Okay, so the MAFs are not seated properly, so I re-attempt to seat them about 12 times, never confident that the MAFs are seated properly. Give up for the night, attack it again the next day. Re-oil the seals (which looked fine to me), re-attempt and now I think I have it done properly. Start the engine up - no apparent exhaust. Cool. Ooops - ESP light comes on (the triangular job). Hmmm... take out the Ross-tech and run a scan, yielding the following:
Address 01: Engine Labels: 077-907-558-BCY.lbl
Part No: 4D1 907 558 D
Component: 4.2l V8/5VT G 0003
Coding: 0006752
Shop #: WSC 02195 785 00200
VCID: 2F660368BDB073663D9-50E6
3 Faults Found:
16486 - Mass Air Flow Sensor (G70)
P0102 - 002 - Signal too Low - MIL ON
17861 - Exhaust Gas Temp Sensor 1 (G235)
P1453 - 001 - Open or Short to Plus
17865 - Exhaust Gas Temp Sensor 2 (G236)
P1457 - 001 - Open or Short to Plus
Readiness: 0010 1101
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 02: Auto Trans Labels: 01L-927-156.lbl
Part No: 4B0 927 156 FL
Component: AG5 01L 4.2l5VT USA 0305
Coding: 0000002
Shop #: WSC 02195 785 00200
VCID: 76E8F60C026A02AEBEF-50C8
1 Fault Found:
18265 - Load Signal
P1857 - 003 - Error Message from ECU
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 03: ABS Brakes Labels: 4B0-614-517.lbl
Part No: 4B0 614 517 AD
Component: ESP 5.7 RS 6 2310
Coding: 06697
Shop #: WSC 02195
VCID: 63CEBF58F1F88706E91-50C8
1 Fault Found:
18265 - Load Signal
P1857 - 35-00 - Error Message from ECU
The EGT's were already an issue, but NEW I now have: the MAF, tranny, and ABS faults.
I cleared the codes, drove about 50 feet, and the MIL re-appears, vag-com yielding same codes.
What did I screw up?
Should I try disconnecting the battery in view of the ECU faults?
Might a wire have come loose from one of the MAF plugs? (is 002 the driver's side? - the MAF wires on that side were exposed going into the plug, i.e. the rubber sleave had ripped away)
One last brain teaser; I have an RNS-E unit. When I pull the hood release, the radio goes into mute mode. Slam the hood down, mute goes off. Does my car have gremlins?
(Fyi 142K , original owner).
..... the all-wheel drive 2015 Hyundai Genesis is starting to catch my attention
GBNF: Mugello, silver, carbon, RNS-E, H&R coilovers, Hotchkiss
'14 GL550
'79 911SC Targa
My only guess would be to check your ground. There is a ground right by the area you were just working in. Brown wires.
2004 Sportec RS600 + 6MT + e85
Fastest RS6 in the USA
Thanks Corbett, didn't find anything obvious .... any other thoughts/suggestions out there?
GBNF: Mugello, silver, carbon, RNS-E, H&R coilovers, Hotchkiss
'14 GL550
'79 911SC Targa
That whole OEM MAF connecter setup is $hit!
I had made plans to create a jumper that allowed some space for ONE person to lift up the airbox from the MAFs and then set it on the manifold and disconnect MAFs using the jumper versus at the MAF connection.
Dave is in possession of the new set of OEM MAF hardware, minus the 5 wires. I will get the contact info for the 5 wire jumper connectors.
These MAF connections and wires shouldn't be so fragile...
SOLD - 03 RS6 Avus (905355)
Current - 03 Toyota Tacoma 4x4 double cab - the YETI, lifted, winched, snorkeled, lockered, skidded, geared