Alternator replacement

[BradP]

Just did my alternator last week. Standard 27mm crows foot did the job, and a 27mm spanner crows foot showed up after I was done. You have slightly more room on the farthest passenger (right side) line. So, loosen it first and get the 'nut' out of the way for the other. Putting it together do the left side first then the right.

They say you don't have to do service position to get in there, but I did anyway (including the intake plenum). I was glad I did because it took about 50 hard whacks with a BFH and a 3 foot rod to get the freakin' alternator out of there. Hit it 10 times, climb under, rotate with a pry bar, hit it 10 times... I actually broke part of the casing beating on the stupid thing. I measured the distance between the ears (or the little nutsert) and the old one was a full .030" less than the new one. New one fit snug, but not tight like it should.

Additionally, it's always bothered me I didn't do some kind of wrap while doing the timing belt. Casting tape for fun Yes, I know it's goofy.

[SteveKen]

Just did my alternator last week. Standard 27mm crows foot did the job, and a 27mm spanner crows foot showed up after I was done. You have slightly more room on the farthest passenger (right side) line. So, loosen it first and get the 'nut' out of the way for the other. Putting it together do the left side first then the right.

They say you don't have to do service position to get in there, but I did anyway (including the intake plenum). I was glad I did because it took about 50 hard whacks with a BFH and a 3 foot rod to get the freakin' alternator out of there. Hit it 10 times, climb under, rotate with a pry bar, hit it 10 times... I actually broke part of the casing beating on the stupid thing. I measured the distance between the ears (or the little nutsert) and the old one was a full .030" less than the new one. New one fit snug, but not tight like it should.

Additionally, it's always bothered me I didn't do some kind of wrap while doing the timing belt. Casting tape for fun Yes, I know it's goofy.

The nut on the back of the alternator housing that the long bolt goes through is actually a steel sleeve in the aluminum housing.

When the bolt is tightened, the sleeve pinches and makes it really hard to remove from the hanger that it attaches to. If you have access to the front, you can loosen the long bolt a couple threads and hit the screw head with a hammer to push the sleeve back a bit and gain some clearance. Just don't damage the screw head when hitting it.

When re-installing the new alternator, you can press the sleeve back to get some clearance or do it on a bench with the long screw inserted and hit it again. You just have to be careful that you don't break the lauminum components.