BMW has been playing up their full coverage for leased cars including brake pads and rotors.
Too bad Audi decided to drop it.
Let see...rotors for RS6 $480 fronts (if I recall) and $250 for rears......easily hide a couple sets in the $85000 price....ummm
Mike
'18 BMW M5, '19 Porsche Boxster GTS
(prior '94 325is, '97 M3, '00 A6 4.2,'03 RS6,'08 A4 Cab,'13 A8L,'15 Q7,'16 BMW M2,
$480 is for each rear!:bigeyes: $720 is the price for each front!:bigeyes: Pads for both fronts are $750, rears are close to $300.Originally posted by Aronis
Let see...rotors for RS6 $480 fronts (if I recall) and $250 for rears......easily hide a couple sets in the $85000 price....ummm
Mike
So if you needed all new rotors and pads...$3450.00!!!
Ben
Einstein once said, "I want to know God's thoughts, the rest are details."
Ron Paul Fan
Seems to me that those Movits I saw discussed here a while back start to look affordable when the OE replacements cost this much. And apparently much better braking with better longevity. The only problem is that there is no US distributor for Movit, at least not that I can find.Originally posted by Benman
$480 is for each rear!:bigeyes: $720 is the price for each front!:bigeyes: Pads for both fronts are $750, rears are close to $300.
So if you needed all new rotors and pads...$3450.00!!!
Ben
2003 RS6, Mugello/Silver, MTM Stage 1 ECM, and TCM mod, Abt 19 inch wheels for summer, stock 18s for winter, RS6+ Pedals INSTALLED! 2Bennett coilover system, 2Bennett front brakes; DRC gone!
You're right, Movits are better brakes than the OEM RS 6 brakes for sure (The Ring Taxi at the Nurburgring uses them). But why the suprise on the price of OEM. OEM has always been high priced for what you get. Just look at radios for example. A face unit for a Honda (let alone an Audi) runs upwards of $1000.00! Do you know what kind of kick butt aftermarket head unit you can get for that price?!? Same with brakes, windshields (speaking of windshield, my brother needed a new one for his 06' GS430, OEM was $950.00 "aftermarket" [same company that makes the OEM] was $450.00!!!), etc...Originally posted by gregoryindiana
Seems to me that those Movits I saw discussed here a while back start to look affordable when the OE replacements cost this much. And apparently much better braking with better longevity. The only problem is that there is no US distributor for Movit, at least not that I can find.
Ben
Einstein once said, "I want to know God's thoughts, the rest are details."
Ron Paul Fan
s42ski:
I also have an RS6 in LA's stop-and-go traffic (daily driver for the most part) and haven't had much problem with brake squeal. That said, on other cars where I've upgraded to harder street/track pads I've had noise issues. Could be glazing on the rotors from the pads due to combination of wear/dust/heat.
It the spray doesn't work, Pacific takes pretty good care of my Beast, so call them up and see if there is anything else they can do. Probably won't change the pads out just for noise unless worn or defective, but "howling" sounds more serious.
Do you know what the wear is on your pads? Many dealers used to be happy to change out pads under warranty even if not totally shot, but now (I guess due to AoA audits) they try to wait until you are down past where the sensor says it's time, just to be sure to get factory warranty reimbursement. You can always pay for new pads and see what happens, either OEM. Racing pads, like Pagid, even if the street use (cooler op temp) type, probably won't help reduce squeal or brake dust much, sorry to say. And do check the rotors for scratching or other problems.
Good luck.
SoCal
Current: S6 (2007), A3 2.0T (2008), RX-7 (1995)
Previous Audi: RS6 (2003)
Socal, the last trip to Pacific they replaced my front pads as they were down to 5 mm which is the limit. The warning light had not gone off yet. The new pads are just as bad so far with regards to noise, they did not resurface the front rotors which in my distant past ( I worked as a mechanic) was the norm. I am hoping that with break in the noise will get tolerable. I am going to Mammoth over the Christmas break so that will put about 700 miles on the car ( mostly highway). IF the noise is still in place on my return then back to Pacific !
I think someone mentioned WD 40 as a cure, that would probably work, at least for one stop !
BTW - My beast is Blue as well, not many of them around
Recommended Break-In Process: New Break Set Up (Rotors&Pads)
When breaking-in Rotors and Pads you are heatcycling these parts. Also, a layer of Pad material is deposited onto the Rotors Surface. This is essential and fundamental for a properly working Brake System. If not bedded-in properly, an uneven layer of Pad Material is deposited onto the Rotor Surface causing a vibrating Steering Wheel, pulsating Brake Pedal and/or Brake Squeal. Nearly any Feeling of a "warped Rotor" is caused by uneven Pad deposition. A new Brake Set Up must be bedded-in for 300-600 mls. To attach the Pad to the Rotors you should perform a Series of 10-15 Stops from 50-60 mph to 12 mph with light Pedal Pressure. The exact Speed is not important. As soon as you get again to approx. 60 mph, begin the breaking cycle. As you approach 12 mph do not keep your Eyes on the Speedometer but start the cycle again. Do not come to a complete Stop during this cycles since Pad Material would be imprinted onto the Rotor Surface which will cause Vibrations later. After the 7th or 8th Stop, there might be a light Smoke coming out of the Rotors. This is normal and will not affect the bedding-in Result in any kind. Also, a distinct Smell may occure after several Stops. After the 8th or 9th Stop, there may be a light fading which is normal and will go away once the Brakes have cooled down completely. After the bedding-in Proceedure, the Rotor should have a light gray Surface. If Race Pads are used, add 4-5 Stops from 80-12 mph with light to middle Pedal Pressure. After this first Break-In Cycle, the Brake Set Up still does not operate with at its full Capacity. The Brake Pad is attached to maybe 20% to the Rotors Surface. Two or three more Cycles are needed to get the Brakes working at a Minimum of their real Capacity. There may still be Marks of the machining visible on the Rotors Surface. These will go away after the first 300-600 mls. As soon as you dont see these Marks anymore and the Rotor Surface is smooth with the same Color all over, you will have full Heat transfer and braking Power of your Brake Set Up. Always make sure to cool the Brakes down completely between each Cycle. A Cycle is a Series of Stops to break-in the Rotors and Pads. The more Patience you have and the longer you will break-in the Rotors and Pads, the better the Result will be. During the breaking-in of the Break Set Up, hard Stops from high Speeds should be avoided. Rotors and Pads may be damaged doing this. Breaking-in of the Pads should not be done in Wet conditions.
This is what should give the best Results for not more than the "normal" noise a Performance Break Set Up is supposed to produce.
excellent.....sounds like one day commute into Boston....LOL 60 down to 12.....repeatedly...thank God I don't do that any more...LOL
Mike
'18 BMW M5, '19 Porsche Boxster GTS
(prior '94 325is, '97 M3, '00 A6 4.2,'03 RS6,'08 A4 Cab,'13 A8L,'15 Q7,'16 BMW M2,
If I do that many stops from 80 mph with these brakes and pads, they will be 50% worn..
Originally posted by Hy Octane
If I do that many stops from 80 mph with these brakes and pads, they will be 50% worn..
Baaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaahaaaaaaaaaaaaaahaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa aaaa
True....
'18 BMW M5, '19 Porsche Boxster GTS
(prior '94 325is, '97 M3, '00 A6 4.2,'03 RS6,'08 A4 Cab,'13 A8L,'15 Q7,'16 BMW M2,
three weeks with new brakes and they still squeal.....load......no time to do that high speed brake in thing....LOL....perhaps tomorrow...
Mike
the squeal but they work very well LOL
'18 BMW M5, '19 Porsche Boxster GTS
(prior '94 325is, '97 M3, '00 A6 4.2,'03 RS6,'08 A4 Cab,'13 A8L,'15 Q7,'16 BMW M2,
put 46k km on front pads, no squeal, 5k km after replacement, no squeal.Originally posted by Hy Octane
They all squeal..
Our other rs6 which is 6 month older squealed like hell on first set of pads (started right after about 7k km), second set ok, no problem.
Could that be different material?
Just for illustration, one stealer price for set of front pads quoted $680 including 19% VAT (WITH POKER FACE "SIR, THESE ARE VERY GOOD BRAKES FOR SUCH EXPENSIVE VEHICLE), another one $$387 with 19% VAT, no bullshit ....
I'd say this is international ripoff .....
Fascinating - I took the car back to Pacific after about 1000 miles of high speed ( for US) driving.
Squeak was still with me - this time in they replaced the front rotors ( last time they just replaced the pads and did not resurface them)
Service said the rotors were now at spec value - according to service
Rotors $650 each front
Pads $ 480 front
I just paid appr. $ 375 (incl. 18% VAT) for set of front pads and they still squeal some when stopping from very low speeds.
2004 RS6 Avant
my brake squealing is getting worse.
I looked at the brake pads, they seem seated well.
I did some high speed stopping on snow/ice and the car stops Straight As An Arrow, so the four brakes are working properly just noisily.
The sqeal is loader than my Enhansed Exhaust Growl.
LOL - or not perhaps.
Mike
'18 BMW M5, '19 Porsche Boxster GTS
(prior '94 325is, '97 M3, '00 A6 4.2,'03 RS6,'08 A4 Cab,'13 A8L,'15 Q7,'16 BMW M2,
Originally posted by Aronis
The sqeal is loader than my Enhansed Exhaust Growl.
LOL - or not perhaps.
MikeYeah, that first set of pads on my car were pretty bad. Every time I got home, the wife was telling me about how many people were looking at the car every time she'd park and those babies would squeeeeeeeeel to a halt. :blush:
I told her, "ah, they're just jealous".But it did sound like a 83' Ford Piece O Dump that badly needely a brake job!
Ben
Einstein once said, "I want to know God's thoughts, the rest are details."
Ron Paul Fan
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