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Thread: what to do before performing a dyno test?

  1. #1
    Registered User trex's Avatar
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    what to do before performing a dyno test?

    is there anything to disable b4 doing the test ,because they said that most all-wheel-drive vhecals have some complications with power distribution between the front and rear and anti-slip control..
    any info will be helpful
    thanks in advance

  2. #2
    Registered User JAXRS6's Avatar
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    I don't know much, but you're using a dyno for AWD or 4WD -- right? That much I do know -- ya need one of those!

  3. #3
    Registered User audirs6sport's Avatar
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    Re: what to do before performing a dyno test?

    Originally posted by trex
    is there anything to disable b4 doing the test ,because they said that most all-wheel-drive vhecals have some complications with power distribution between the front and rear and anti-slip control..
    any info will be helpful
    thanks in advance

    Definetely disable the ESP, not by just pressing the button.
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  4. #4
    Registered User Dark Knight's Avatar
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    be very careful. is your car chipped? if so who's chip? some chips overide or have removed some factory safety features, by doing that it allows the car to run on a dyno even if it's not producing enough air to cool the car and "feed" the intercoolers.

    the RS6 needs a LOT of forced air (I was told 100,000 cubic meters an hour, imagine the force of air when doing 120+mph on the road!) to the front of the car when it's on a dyno. if your car is still factory set, and it doesn't get the air it needs, it may even shutdown the turbo's. this happened to me when i went on a crappy dyno.

    not many places (especially in the US) have a dyno that can CORRECTLY run an RS6.
    Dark Knight

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  5. #5
    Registered User trex's Avatar
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    Originally posted by Dark Knight
    be very careful. is your car chipped? if so who's chip? some chips overide or have removed some factory safety features, by doing that it allows the car to run on a dyno even if it's not producing enough air to cool the car and "feed" the intercoolers.

    the RS6 needs a LOT of forced air (I was told 100,000 cubic meters an hour, imagine the force of air when doing 120+mph on the road!) to the front of the car when it's on a dyno. if your car is still factory set, and it doesn't get the air it needs, it may even shutdown the turbo's. this happened to me when i went on a crappy dyno.

    not many places (especially in the US) have a dyno that can CORRECTLY run an RS6.
    i'm not gonna waste my car on something like this, it seems that the dyno is not professionally equept and the guys there dnot know crap about what they are doing .
    thanks Dark Knight for your suggestion i really appreciate your concern

  6. #6
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    I took the beast out to a dyno this past weekend.
    She gave me 337HP at the wheels, according to the dyno output.
    Some other folks weren't as happy with their numbers, and claimed that the dyno numbers seemed low.
    I had never dyno'd before, so that is my baseline, if I ever start moddin'!!!!

    The dyno obviously has to be AWD type dyno.
    Make sure to disable ESP, since the measurement is of the wheel HP.

    Post on other forum about the dyno day!


    Some pix (click image for larger):




  7. #7
    Registered User got boost's Avatar
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    Just ran a baseline dyno today. 353.3whp and about 375wtq. on 93 octane. It was done in tip mode, 3rd gear, 3 times.

    Here she is


  8. #8
    Registered User got boost's Avatar
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    This is the first dyno run I've ever done, seems kinda high, but I'll take it. I thought the torque would be lower?
    Last edited by got boost; December 5th, 2006 at 00:36. Reason: add

  9. #9
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    Good results...are these numbers corrected for weather or actual? A cold day will give much better numbers.
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  10. #10
    Registered User got boost's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Squirrel View Post
    Good results...are these numbers corrected for weather or actual? A cold day will give much better numbers.
    I'm not sure about the corrections. I'm gonna see if they can email the file so I can post it, because I'm curious to know if it is typical. I realize that there are a gazillion variables some that can be duplicated and others not. I figure as modifications are done, I will have the same shop be able to use the same format to keep some consistency.

    The shop is about 1.5 hours of mainly highway driving from me, so it was definitley warmed up. It may have sat for about a half hour in mid 40's temp before going on the dyno.
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  11. #11
    Registered User bbigman2000's Avatar
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    Yeh Id be careful, the RS6 has two intercoolers so the air needs to be directed into both meshed areas on the lower front bumper.

    Most dyno;s just have one big fan, this is NOT suitable.

    As somone rightly stated, dyno fans can only simulate 60-70mph wind force, when out on the road the cars getting a massive amount more than that.

    Unless they are fully kitted it for directing the cold air efficiently into both intercoolers and the radiators, then forget it.

    You will get a little more power if you change the oil first (less friction) and also ensure your running equal and fairly hard tyre pressures.

  12. #12
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    You've definitely got the right idea. You can get a lot of variation from one shop to another even with the same dyno equipment. Should always go back to same place for the before and after. Also be sure to get the corrected numbers so if you go back on a warmer or colder day, you can compare noramlized results.

    When I tested my Mustang, actual was 448hp, but corrected was 424. Wasn't very cold that day either, maybe 60F, so the weather effect can be big. That's why we all love the winter, especially forced induction
    Avus Silver RS6
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    MTM Quad Exhaust
    Navigation, Warm Weather Pack

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    1994 Mustang GT, Supercharged 331 stroker, 424rwhp

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