Hi from NZ

[vs2]

I just posted this same message on RS246.com as well.

Hi. OK here goes, I need help today. Sorry for the long post.

I already have a good performance car (2002 Skyline R34 M Spec NUR - 700hp) that I use weekends, meets etc. I also have a 2004 X5 4.4i for an everyday vehicle but it just does'nt do it for me, plus I don't really need the whole SUV thing. BMW have offered me a new 545i Touring (wagon) with SMG and all options and a very good trade package, but the performance side of me tells me that I will get bored of this vehicle soon as well.

Well I've always loved the RS6 Avant but in NZ there are only 40 or so and hard to find, but yesterday one became available, its a 10/03 model, Nagaro(sp?) Blue Avant with 17.000 miles on it, black leather and in immaculate condition. Euro cars are expensive here in NZ. This car was $240k NZD new and they want !65K NZD for it now (55k pds). I want this car for my everday driver. Is there anything I should look out for? Still has 16 mths left on Warranty. How about the ride quality - is the suspension ok for doing long trips. It has new tires (P zeros), I've heard they eat brakes and servicing is really expensive T/F? Any of you have high milage on your cars and how are they holding up?
Hopefully I get positive feedback as this car makes sense to me as:
Its a wagon (lugging stuff around, dogs etc
5 seater & comfortable back seats
Powerful but unasuming (would debadge it)
Best looking station wagon (I think anyway)
Easy to drive performance car with luxury.

I know theres a new RS6 coming out soon and already theres the facelift A6 models out, but I like this model and shape.
Do you think they will hold there value resonably well? I would plan to keep it for the long term.

Thanks in advance.

[Nordschleife]

Hi
I would NOT plan on keeping the RS6 for a long time. The build quality is poor, compare it to the 2.7 litre S4 if you don't believe me. The brakes are hopeless, if your daily drive involved Wellington to Masterton, for example, the brakes would be totally inadequate.
Incidentally, all the Audi Turbos I've owned have had their turbos replaced, apart from the original Sport Quattro. RS6s also had failures of gearboxes, exhaust manifolds, air conditioning and the aforementioned turbo problems, and wandering headlights, and excessive underbody corrosion.......
The suspension is unduely firm at low speeds and too soft at high speeds.
Have you considered a Quattroporte, with a custom interior to fix the finish problems?

R+C

[JAXRS6]

I feel comfortable addressing two of your concerns: ride quality and reliability.

Ride quality is fine for long trips on smooth pavement (obviously, eh?!). The suspension is firm, as with all performance vehicles I'm aware of, but does OK over "rounded" repairs of road surfaces. With potholes, or concrete that has gaps or sharp "lips," it can be irritating.

As for reliability, I'm at 41,000 miles and have had good & bad. The bad was 1) a serpentine belt that somehow got torn & my having to wait a month for the fix (due to an Audi Europe-to-US communication gap which, I'm told, has since been fixed); 2) a long period of subpar performance characterized by three ECM/ECU failures, finally rectified after a dealer-to-Europe phone call & subsequent replacement of my wiring harness. The good news is that the last of these was over by 15K miles, meaning that my engine & drivetrain have been fine for the last 26K miles.

The last problem was 3) undercarriage banging rattles which proved difficult for the dealer to diagnose. After 10 hours of trying, Audi of America was consulted, with the result being replacement of the "DRC center valve gas accumulator" (honest, that's what dealer said it's called) atop each rear strut. No rattles since; that was about 7K miles ago. In fact I'd now call the car remarkably rattle-free, given its mileage, weight, 7-year-old platform design and spending about 40% of its time on (mostly) rough roads here in the state of Michigan.

Maintenance is not cheap. My front brake pads and rotors were replaced at 38K miles; other owners report that happening sooner. Here in the US it was covered under warranty, but next time it will be mine to pay for -- about $1750 US with labor, $1400 for parts only. Also, the timing belt, replaced free under the Audi maintenance program here at 35K miles, will be mine to pay for at 75K miles (about $1200 US). The high performance summer tires (I'm on my second set of Pirelli Rossos) will need replacement about every 20-24K miles with mild driving, sooner with aggressive driving, and much sooner if the car is tracked (brakes too). Oil changes here, every 10K miles, will cost about $200 after the free Audi of America maintenance program expires at 50K miles.

Those the negatives. But every time my car was out of service for a couple of weeks or more (as in 1, 2 and 3 above), I shopped around and found nothing I liked as well. As far as I can tell, nothing else offers the RS6's four-door combination of AWD and power (not to mention great looks & sound), unless you want to consider the Quattroporte (Maserati) or Bentley's new sedan -- both of which cost more and may be even harder to find, especially in NZ. And neither is offered as a wagon. The fact that big problems seem to be behind me make me inclined to keep my RS6 as long as it does not disappoint again with major downtime and/or repair expenses.

Bottom line for me: My RS6 is a keeper, maybe for many more years, especially since I may not be able to afford the new one & I still haven't learned to like the new "in-your-face" grille.

PS -- I just saw Nordschleife's post and while I haven't encountered any of the problems he listed, I would say that I might have encountered some if I drove my RS6 hard. I don't. Triple digit speeds when conditions permit, yes, and of course I put the throttle to the floor occasionally. But I don't make a habit of driving the car aggressively.

[gjg]

I would dissagree with Nordo here - all depends on driving style and yes, with "lead foot" there will be undoudebtly some problems down the road - with any car. Of course with tuned car the problems will multiply at certain point .....

As family wagon/daily driver this is imho ideal car - low key, comfy and power .... I have approx. 28k km on my Avant, so far no problems (dealer sucks but that seems to be universal ww issue).

[gjg]

some more:

1. ride quality is ok even on really s****y roads - and our roads here beat Michigan any day anywhere

my experience is with RS6 and RS6+ with stiffer suspension - regular rs6 is well behaved and comfy even here.

2. both of my rs6/+ are later production date and so far I had not experienced any of the problems outlined here with the exception of DRC valve regulator on 01/2004 manufactured car - replaced under warranty.

3. brakes are ok for daily drive unless you have rally/F1 driving style - slalom drive on Autobahn in evening traffic will do them in short time .....

all depends, what do you want the car for

[Nordschleife]

All my problems occured at under 20,000km. But I do run at over 300kph on a daily basis - why else would one live in Germany - not for the climate thats for sure.
Whilst some people think that the brakes are OK, they have never driven the Rimutakas.
If a 545i is going to be a bit boring for you, then one assumes that you are going to 'drive' the RS6. Well in NZ that probably involves heroics in the back blocks, this is tough on the car's underpinnings, the low quality of which horrified one of my engineers.
For going up to the skifields I prefer a Landcruiser...... if depreciation is of concern then of the modern German cars, only Porsche holds its value in the fatherland, and even that is changing with the recent cars. As far as the SMG goes, you either like it or you don't, if it does it for you then you will have a lot of fun with the 545i.
George's experience in Czech Republic and Slovakia has some application to Enzed but nothing like the amount of what the WRC people call gravel stages. Also given the 'undulation' features of State Highway 1 at over 240kph, the suspension is likely to be uncomfortable - do you have an open account at Wanganui?

R+C

[vs2]

Thanks for the responses and spending the time on the keyboards.

Nordo (can I call you Nordo?), Seems like you know NZ quite well.

Well, definately some pos.& negative remarks made so far and I appreciate the honesty. Got to make the decision about 12 hrs from now.

Wil I be doing this tomorrow pm.

[zaxik]

24000 km so far, driving 200km/h+ every daily.

Warranty cases so far:

1. Brake liquid pressure sensor - changed (in vain)

2. ABS module (still to be replaced along with both main brake magistrals - brake fluid leaks sometimes) - sporadic failure in electrionics.

3. Some gray alluminium moldings - visual corrosion - probably because of chemiclas use in winter.

4. Luggage door lock - servolocks are clinching from time to time.

5. Fron left tyre pressure sensor - died today. Pressure sensor give as they say - sporadic error.

That's not much, and not very serious so far, but a bit alerting comparing to say some other cars I had. Comparing to Porsche Cayenne, that lost some suspension sensors 300km after leaving a factory in Leipzig, wich ended up with changing bunch of things in a suspension control what I had so far - is standard for 0-milage VAG products, I belive.

Brake pads an rotors - absolutely useless and poorely designed for this kind of car - overheating kills them immediately. My driving manner kills them in 3000km (that's not a case in winter - firstly because cooling is much better, secondly - because snow roads speed is way lower than in summer). After having 3 front rotors and 4 sets of pads changed I ended up with conclusion - once You go over 120-130km/h using brakes without tiptronic - is a direct way to kill rotors. Last 3000 kilometers I forced myself to use "-", of double and even tripple "-" push of wheel button (so called "manual" mode) after I touch brake pedal. I found, that using the engine for braking is not only a way to keep rotors from glowing red but also provides very effective deceleration pretty comparable with brake pedal "kick-down". However, "tiptronic braking" or "engine braking" is not immediate, comparing to a brake pedal and is electronically controlled (delayed or rejected when RPM is too high), i.e makes no sense while tracking and is useless when you need to stop urgently from say 160km/h.

DRC - surely specific at high speed, say over 180km/h. Car feels too soft, though to be true - when I'm at that speed I would not require my to corner sharply and responsively. At lower speeds, and spesifically at acceleration and slow down - DRC to my mind is even better and more comfortable (at least the same) as Mercedes active suspension (whatever its called). If I were to drive my rs6 in Germany I would reject DRC in a favour of sport suspension - but for all other "civil" roads - DRC - is great plus in terms of making beast comfortable and to a certain extent "drivalble".

As for alternatives - I would say nothing but 911 turbo (or similar awd porsche) will be so much fun. What I personally like a lot about is its false modesty - in fact - it's an old A6 for most of people around - whereas all comparable cars are screaming and extremely notable pieces wich sometimes may question the reason of buying those cars .

Conclusion - go for it. You'll love it. There is no alternative for spititous driving in winter (trust me - I'm a snow russian). Since the day I took my beast from dealer there was no single day I regret buying it. I even forgive them brkaes issue wich is a spoon of shit in a barrel of honney.

[SpinEcho]

Well, you've probably made your decision by now, and I hope you weren't scared off by some of the comments here.

Where I live there are plenty of empty roads if you choose your time carefully, but there are too few challenging curves. Getting up to highly illegal speeds is no problem, and my brakes don't mind what I've done to them so far. I guess if there were a lot more curves, things might be different. But I just can't see how these dreaded brake issues are going to appear unless you're either a. nuts, b. living where there are no speed restrictions or c. tracking your car. But hey, maybe I'm just a wuss...

As for reliability, this seems to be hit and miss depending on who you're talking to. So far so good for me at 14 months in (knocks on wood).

If it's not too late, why not an M5? Let us know what you get!

[rks838]

With my RS6 at 17,000 miles, I have had zero problems. Build quality seems to depend on the specific car, so at 17,000 make sure that RS6 Avant hasn't had problems. From what other people have said, it seems accurate to say that if it doesn't have problems now, it'll probably be alright. The brakes are great (imo), but not race-spec. Best stops are 60-0mph in 113ft. and 100-0 in 202ft. You can't drive 300kmh in NZ anyway, right ?

Too bad this is all too late - did you get it??

[vs2]

Thanks for the replies from rs245.com & rs6.com.

I checked the maint. records. The car has 17000, miles and has had zero warranty issues, just the basic servicing. It is the same dealer who sold the car originally and who just got it listed back from the guy they sold it too. It was used by the wife from what i can gather as he had the Porshe & Aston (must be nice). Definately not a thrashed car.

Before I take delivery they will put on new rotors & pads all round, full service incl, plugs, fluids, filters, AC filters, wiper blades etc and also buy the cable and install my Phatbox for me (from the BMW) Has brand new rubber and this is only the 2nd set (so one set P zeros in 17,000 miles....def. not driven hard)

For $1700 USD they are going to extend the warranty to Oct. 2008.

So, thats about it. Servicing should be done late tomorrow afternoon and then I can pick it up.

Heres what its going to be sitting next to in my garage.

[7:53 RS6]

Originally posted by zaxik
24000 km so far, driving 200km/h+ every daily.

Warranty cases so far:

1. Brake liquid pressure sensor - changed (in vain)

2. ABS module (still to be replaced along with both main brake magistrals - brake fluid leaks sometimes) - sporadic failure in electrionics.

3. Some gray alluminium moldings - visual corrosion - probably because of chemiclas use in winter.

4. Luggage door lock - servolocks are clinching from time to time.

5. Fron left tyre pressure sensor - died today. Pressure sensor give as they say - sporadic error.

That's not much, and not very serious so far, but a bit alerting comparing to say some other cars I had. Comparing to Porsche Cayenne, that lost some suspension sensors 300km after leaving a factory in Leipzig, wich ended up with changing bunch of things in a suspension control what I had so far - is standard for 0-milage VAG products, I belive.

Brake pads an rotors - absolutely useless and poorely designed for this kind of car - overheating kills them immediately. My driving manner kills them in 3000km (that's not a case in winter - firstly because cooling is much better, secondly - because snow roads speed is way lower than in summer). After having 3 front rotors and 4 sets of pads changed I ended up with conclusion - once You go over 120-130km/h using brakes without tiptronic - is a direct way to kill rotors. Last 3000 kilometers I forced myself to use "-", of double and even tripple "-" push of wheel button (so called "manual" mode) after I touch brake pedal. I found, that using the engine for braking is not only a way to keep rotors from glowing red but also provides very effective deceleration pretty comparable with brake pedal "kick-down". However, "tiptronic braking" or "engine braking" is not immediate, comparing to a brake pedal and is electronically controlled (delayed or rejected when RPM is too high), i.e makes no sense while tracking and is useless when you need to stop urgently from say 160km/h.

DRC - surely specific at high speed, say over 180km/h. Car feels too soft, though to be true - when I'm at that speed I would not require my to corner sharply and responsively. At lower speeds, and spesifically at acceleration and slow down - DRC to my mind is even better and more comfortable (at least the same) as Mercedes active suspension (whatever its called). If I were to drive my rs6 in Germany I would reject DRC in a favour of sport suspension - but for all other "civil" roads - DRC - is great plus in terms of making beast comfortable and to a certain extent "drivalble".

As for alternatives - I would say nothing but 911 turbo (or similar awd porsche) will be so much fun. What I personally like a lot about is its false modesty - in fact - it's an old A6 for most of people around - whereas all comparable cars are screaming and extremely notable pieces wich sometimes may question the reason of buying those cars .

Conclusion - go for it. You'll love it. There is no alternative for spititous driving in winter (trust me - I'm a snow russian). Since the day I took my beast from dealer there was no single day I regret buying it. I even forgive them brkaes issue wich is a spoon of shit in a barrel of honney.

May i give you a tip, stopp to overbreake when using stock pads!

Its no news stock pads cant handel it. Its not the same as bad brakes, please change to black pagid and let me know if you wear them down as easy? You are not! And what if the rotor glow, it can take heat!
Who in their right mind drive this way and dont put propper pads on , especally when driving a heawy porker like RS6? Well i did a time as i had big trobel to get the pads, but nowdays it no problem to get them.

And you may atend som track traning, then you should learn that the best way to give brakes a hard time is to drive very, very hard on street, its not to strange(this is valid for the most cars and brakes, but sure 2060kg is 2060kg).
Well why is this you say. Its as easy like this, on steet you do not have your exat breaking point as on track, you dont know the road, cars going slower than you, as for this you are all over the brakepedal all!! time!! if you are relly going fast on street, that is!!.

Well you do not have to be a rocketsientict to know ,This is is stresfull for bakes, pads and oil for sure. Some time you see the same thing on track and then its often first timers that brake all time and not on the exaxt braking point. After its always the same, you always hear they say its shit brakes, and never they reflect on the way they overbrake and not giving the brakes any chance to cool in betwen. And i dont mean coling in the pit!

As i said before any body can manage to stress the brakes this way, its not particulary hard in any car. But its harder if you have the propper pads and have some experience of trackdriving and know not to be all over the brakepedal all the time.

[7:53 RS6]

Vs2 here is my saying, RS6 is heck of a car stock. Im amazed about how my 2060kg avant is preforming. Even at tracks it do very good for what it is. As a allround car its way good. Sure its not as communicating and fun as other sportscars, but moore allround. Dont drive hard a tracks whit it if you not are preppered to throw money out the pocket. Pirelli pzero Rossa i do 3000km then its finished not to talk about rotors and pads. But its normal.

Dont mind all the talk about the brakes beeing bad, they are doing a damn god jobb on a 2060kg porker(avant). They have never failed on me. And those that say breakes are bad can never relly explain what bad is. Its many times them selvef or pads and oil that are bad.
My car seemd to be put togheter wery well. And it have been abused a lot some say, i say its like always and how it should be, but still no wrong. Once it was in for garanti jobb and they changed the camstretchers. It sems wery well puttogeter as well i think. And its rock solid and easy to drive fast and over the edge.
But Audi custommer service sucks. But they are working har to improve in Sweden anyway.

If you relly like it hard and fast on street as well, you will save a big load of money to put on pads that can take the heat.
Stock pads will not last long, but then again they are not made for that kind of driving, but not all can take that in

[zaxik]

Originally posted by 8:29 RS6
May i give you a tip, stopp to overbreake when using stock pads!

Its no news stock pads cant handel it. Its not the same as bad brakes, please change to black pagid and let me know if you wear them down as easy? You are not! And what if the rotor glow, it can take heat!
Who in their right mind drive this way and dont put propper pads on , especally when driving a heawy porker like RS6?

Ok, so tell wich other pads I can use with standard rotors and calipers and where can I get that ? I simply don't know.

PS: BTW - Planning to go to Helsinki sometimes before July 10th on my - can visit You over there in Sweden - seems like you are not far from Finland

[nene]

I have to say that in 2 years and 26K miles later, the only non-standard maintenance call to the dealership has been for that useless OnStar system. Now that the advisory has been done, it's been green since.

My car has been trouble free, and I hope that I'm not jinxing myself on this one. To be candid, when I take the RS6 out, that is when I'm the happiest. I really have no reservations about the brakes, albeit they squeal a bit, but it's been like that for any big brake kits I've owned. The Brembo setup on the S4 also squealed. I'm sure that if I upgrade to the Movi't setup, it will too.
When I take the Benz or the Bimmer out, I love them both, but not quite as much as the Audi. The Audi is just so gorgeous all around, and the turbo power, I can't live without. Yes it can be paranoing for some, but I don't let it run my life.
Any car that has a forced air induction system in place, be it turbo or supercharger, it will be more temperamental. All I can say is that of all my friends that have gone this route, mostly aftermarket, their car is always finding excuses. Some days are good, and some are bad to worse. Nonetheless, I believe that the time spent by Audi to tweak the RS6 was well spent, as my turbo system has been extremely reliable, even on other Audis. My S4 is on it's 5th year, with original turbos still on.

Personally I believe the RS6 is one of the best Sport Saloons/Sedans you can own (in Avant form as well). Treat her well, and she will treat you well back. I don't drive like an old lady on a Sunday afternoon. But instead I pick my spots to show off. I'm not driving around town or on my daily commute as if I was a race car driver. I don't take off every stop light as if I was at a drag strip. I want folks to see how gorgeous the car is, as I drive by. Love seeing the faces of a people at corners, when they see the car, and they know what it is. The GF usually prefers the Bimmers, but lately (as in the past 8 months), she's grown fond of the Audi a whole lot more, and she's been using it more than the Bimmer. Small trips she takes though, as school is only 2 miles away.

This car has also been driving 1100 miles in 1 weekend with only a couple of stops, and sometimes gone for 4 hours in a row without one. Rock solid machine. The only one in my stable for sure to be a keeper.

[7:53 RS6]

Originally posted by zaxik
Ok, so tell wich other pads I can use with standard rotors and calipers and where can I get that ? I simply don't know.

PS: BTW - Planning to go to Helsinki sometimes before July 10th on my - can visit You over there in Sweden - seems like you are not far from Finland

As i mentioned the stock pads are to soft for inspierd driving, as i understod you experiesed this your selv. If you would like some pads that can take heat and the kg the RS6 is pulling on, i would advice you to use Black Pagid. Also change to Motul or Castrol high bolingpoint brake oil(racing oil). And when you are doing these small things also change the oil lines to steel line. And i can promise that you have an cheep upgrade that take moore than stock does. It also is up a level in feel much beccuse the hard pagid. Pagid Blacks tend to eat a bit harder on the rotor than stockpads, just so you know.

Its not so far from Finland, just a boat trip and some beers and you are here. Please PM me if you commimg.

[Matteus]

Originally posted by 8:29 RS6
May i give you a tip, stopp to overbreake when using stock pads!

Its no news stock pads cant handel it. Its not the same as bad brakes, please change to black pagid and let me know if you wear them down as easy? You are not! And what if the rotor glow, it can take heat!
Who in their right mind drive this way and dont put propper pads on , especally when driving a heawy porker like RS6? Well i did a time as i had big trobel to get the pads, but nowdays it no problem to get them.

And you may atend som track traning, then you should learn that the best way to give brakes a hard time is to drive very, very hard on street, its not to strange(this is valid for the most cars and brakes, but sure 2060kg is 2060kg).
Well why is this you say. Its as easy like this, on steet you do not have your exat breaking point as on track, you dont know the road, cars going slower than you, as for this you are all over the brakepedal all!! time!! if you are relly going fast on street, that is!!.

Well you do not have to be a rocketsientict to know ,This is is stresfull for bakes, pads and oil for sure. Some time you see the same thing on track and then its often first timers that brake all time and not on the exaxt braking point. After its always the same, you always hear they say its shit brakes, and never they reflect on the way they overbrake and not giving the brakes any chance to cool in betwen. And i dont mean coling in the pit!

As i said before any body can manage to stress the brakes this way, its not particulary hard in any car. But its harder if you have the propper pads and have some experience of trackdriving and know not to be all over the brakepedal all the time.

hi,

first let me say: I have read quite a lot of posts from you, and I really admire your experience and knowledge on cars.

but, when I read this... I think to myself: Such a car MUST be able to handle that sort of driving every day right? It's a german car, it's an Audi (very sporty image in my eyes) and it's got 450hp.
I'm quite surprised reading you're post. ok I can except brake-screwup with my 190E if I drive like that on the autobah, but from a car which was Built for this?

I don't by any means want to sound annoying...:blush:

Zaxik his post and his opinion on the brakes seem very justified from my point of view. I would be surprised too if the brakes of my high performance car (ok it's a break, but it's still high performance) can't handle hard every day driving.

Is there a reason known of why audi uses soft pads for this car? didn't they notice this 'problem' when they tested the car?

I know i can't even think about competing with you on car experience and knowledge, but I would expect from such a car that the brakes are capable of handling the rest of the car (power, speed).



wfg,

matteus


Or am I spoiled by the ultra brake system of the mercs?

[7:53 RS6]

Originally posted by Matteus
hi,

first let me say: I have read quite a lot of posts from you, and I really admire your experience and knowledge on cars.

but, when I read this... I think to myself: Such a car MUST be able to handle that sort of driving every day right? It's a german car, it's an Audi (very sporty image in my eyes) and it's got 450hp.
I'm quite surprised reading you're post. ok I can except brake-screwup with my 190E if I drive like that on the autobah, but from a car which was Built for this?

I don't by any means want to sound annoying...:blush:

Zaxik his post and his opinion on the brakes seem very justified from my point of view. I would be surprised too if the brakes of my high performance car (ok it's a break, but it's still high performance) can't handle hard every day driving.

Is there a reason known of why audi uses soft pads for this car? didn't they notice this 'problem' when they tested the car?

I know i can't even think about competing with you on car experience and knowledge, but I would expect from such a car that the brakes are capable of handling the rest of the car (power, speed).



wfg,

matteus


Or am I spoiled by the ultra brake system of the mercs?

Do not say that you cant comper your knowledge whit mine, im no proffesional in any way. The last i want is to stand out as is mr knowit all, far from. I just lern by doing and trying not to pass on things i have heard or read about, but talk about things as i tested or experienced it live and not teoreticaly. Tats what most of us do at this place i guess, and we all are inteteld to ouer own experiences and opinions of cours

Then ofcourse we all experience things different.
Ther is no worris on the brakes on RS6, and i stick to that. And no worris on Gallardo or new RS4.

Its not many on this bord that complain about them, just a few relly.What i say is if you drive like an absolutly nut case you may need better pads and oil or if you go to track often. This do not mean the brakes are bad

And i meen you relly have to give the car some really hard spanking for it to not deliver braking power. Then you may end up fading stock oil or stock pads(even race dito as well but not likely, later anyhow).
I could stick out my head here, probably not moore than a few on the bord have relly faded the breakes on the RS6. Ithink i read of some one.
I mean when you come to the point that the brake pedal when pushed under driving completely go to the bottom of flor, whit no braking power.

I have never come to this point on street, even i have done some nuts driving, belive me. Well its a bit depending on how you use brakes also. But its not some thing that happens often.
But sure its done if you never let them get air, and are constant to long to often and hard on the pedal. But belive me its not easy, before you manage you probably crashed or stopped by cops.

Try it whit the benz and you will see it takes some effort on that brake setup, but tell me after how long and hard you had to work it before it hit rock bottom. Then try the same thing in your car whit racing pads that can take heat and new racing oil, and steel lines, im sure now you can abuse the brakes a bit longer before brakes fail to stopp the car and pedal go to bottom. Why not havit like this if you know you drive so hard that things can happen. If you are that guy giving gas the extra few meters and brake later than others you should have it on for safty and feel and ekonomy.
Thats why i had it on. But if to much soft driving for a while i put stock pads back on to save rotor.

In RS6 It just happen once at the ring, it accoured 2-3 times i think under one lap and the samme amount the next lap.(we did rest in betwen) The car brakes down a bit when you push pedal but then it hit the flor and no more breake power,. Just let it up again and breake once more and the pressur is slowly comming back.
Most likely it was pad and oil that dident handel the extrem energi that was pushed in to brakes becuse of the R-compund and its grip(hevy car as well). Nead i to say reall pads was on order but dident show, we had race oil in.

As for you Audi question on the softer pads
Of course Audi now this, the also know that 99,9% of their costomers on RS6 is never going to use the RS6 in a way like this therfor it will not be an problem for them. The 99,9% will never fade brakes on RS6 or see stock pads totaly melt down on a few laps at the ring. RS6 is not a race car and the 99,9% know this, its we the rest that diden get it(ha,ha) And there are others on the forum that track their RS6 as well as change of pads.

If Audi did put on black pagid on this cars stock, they would not even sell on car. The 99,9%Peopel would return the car back when they see the rotor wear and the sound it makes when you breakes, the metal to metal ssssscccchcchhhh i dont mean the whistling sound that even comes on stock. You hear it eat rotor, you dont on stock, but it do not eat that bad.

The Stock pads is fine for the most and its Pagid that have made them for Audi and its a pretty god compromise.

But when you use up more than almost 6-10 sets of stock front pads in say 6-7 month, then its cheeper whit some rotor wear and reall race pads that lasts and can take heat. And if you use upp stock pads like i did, you need harder better pads and oil its as simpel as that.

Untill now i have no problems whit my stock CSL, but real DTM race slicks and r-compund as well as yellow pagid are on the way for starters, it may stopp at that. Or if its needen it can go from ther, but not befor i try the ceep uppgrade first. We will se how stock pads/ vs yellow pagid can handel slick on CSL.

The cheep uppgrade was perfekt on RS6 for my needs any way. But if some one is joining VLN whit RS6 then a brake upgrad for say 10000 euro is for sure somthing even i would recomend.