Where are all the modded C5 RS6 at? 500awhp to 800awhp+?

[nubcake]

It is possible to cut some corners, but it still won't be cheap at all.
Engine can hold 600ish for a while, provided it's adequately tuned and will not be overheated (read over-abused).

Ballpark parts prices:
- turbos 3k
- fueling 1.5k
- intercoolers 1.5k
- exhaust 1.5k
- various little bits and pieces - easily 1-2k on top.
- optionally MT conversion, can easily run 5k+ on its own.

Then you add repairs/maintenance pieces, labor, tune, etc - and it sums up nicely to 20+.

[RS6Goals]

It is possible to cut some corners, but it still won't be cheap at all.
Engine can hold 600ish for a while, provided it's adequately tuned and will not be overheated (read over-abused).

Ballpark parts prices:
- turbos 3k
- fueling 1.5k
- intercoolers 1.5k
- exhaust 1.5k
- various little bits and pieces - easily 1-2k on top.
- optionally MT conversion, can easily run 5k+ on its own.

Then you add repairs/maintenance pieces, labor, tune, etc - and it sums up nicely to 20+.

Wow is this audi pricing?

Intercooler pretty sure I can cut that cost to $350 on a front mount style
exhaust $400 straight through mandrel bends from downpipe back or 250 for cutout
what do you count as various parts? Maintenance parts should not be counted. 1-2k is a big range to budget for misc

I havent looked at fueling but tons of new pump that range in the 120-200 that will flow 600+
injectors = this will probably be the most expensive maybe 600-1k
intake = 150, it amazes me that people pay 700+ for al piping and a filter...
turbo will be dependent on what I can make work.hmm hoping I can get this down to 600-700 range.


Im thinking stock exhaust manifold will flow the 600awhp.

Ive been doing some more reading and looks like the major concern is space for the turbo.

A manual swap will take care of the auto trans limitation and free up space.

Tried the google search thing. Had better luck but still not able to find information like details on what people are using. Ill keep digging

I should probably add that I build my own stuff and fab my own parts

[mdegracia]

It adds up fast as you end up doing a lot of ancillary work while you have the motor out.

And it couldn't be any further from an LS. There is very little information out there for support aside from this forum. And Napa will not have those last minute parts you may find you need in a pinch. If you choose to take on the project it will take a lot of pre-planning and parts acquisition to keep the schedule moving. Otherwise, expect ample down time.

[nubcake]

All I can tell you - you're welcome to try.
You will quickly find out that it's not me "over-quoting" prices, but that your thinking is overly optimistic, unless you're okay with hacking together a barely functioning frankenstein, that doesn't resemble RS6 anymore.

There's no space to fit a proper FMIC, unless you get rid of the AC and relocate oil & PS coolers.
Exhaust manifolds may be able to flow 750chp, but finding proper turbos that will bolt there and flow enough - is a completely different thing. A pair of used TD05s might fit your budget, but you'll spend a lot of time making them fit.

"Various little bits" are the stuff that you don't count, but it quickly adds up. Gaskets, hoses, sensors, hardware, yadda yadda. Depending on how involved your build is going to be, it can vary a lot.
Bottom line of that message was: don't expect to "cheap out". Again, you can cut corners, but don't expect anything close to "LS community" prices with this car.

You didn't find any details, because there aren't many documented "big" builds. Usually the biggest thing people do - MT & hybrids. And that just barely touches 500whp mark. Try searching for "Milka build thread".

[RS6Goals]

All I can tell you - you're welcome to try.
You will quickly find out that it's not me "over-quoting" prices, but that your thinking is overly optimistic, unless you're okay with hacking together a barely functioning frankenstein, that doesn't resemble RS6 anymore.

There's no space to fit a proper FMIC, unless you get rid of the AC and relocate oil & PS coolers.
Exhaust manifolds may be able to flow 750chp, but finding proper turbos that will bolt there and flow enough - is a completely different thing. A pair of used TD05s might fit your budget, but you'll spend a lot of time making them fit.

"Various little bits" are the stuff that you don't count, but it quickly adds up. Gaskets, hoses, sensors, hardware, yadda yadda. Depending on how involved your build is going to be, it can vary a lot.
Bottom line of that message was: don't expect to "cheap out". Again, you can cut corners, but don't expect anything close to "LS community" prices with this car.

You didn't find any details, because there aren't many documented "big" builds. Usually the biggest thing people do - MT & hybrids. And that just barely touches 500whp mark. Try searching for "Milka build thread".

Thanks for pointing me to Milka's build. Thats EXACTLY what im looking for.

Not really sure why cheap/low price would automatically mean barely functioning Frankenstein/cutting corners. There are things that can be built/buy cheap(IC/fuel pump/turbo/exhaust/intake/etc) and things you just have to pay for (inj/tune/ECU or flasher/conversion/etc).

Prior to this car, I built a custom turbo set up on a 98 ws6 for less than 2.5k(including turbo and little things). That set up was my DD at 600whp for 2 years(until I sold it because I wanted AWD Turbo V8 to take care of street traction issues ). That car retained AC.
Before that, I built a 530awhp talon,500hp turbo v8 260z, and a few supras. Currently also working on LS swap vega

Not sure if you're aware but there are turbo's on the market now that runs $350 that last 20-30k+ and able to push 600-800whp+. A single $150 pump can flow enough to run 600whp. I was really hoping people have tried these type of build so I wouldn't be wasting time trying to figure out what to mix and match. But I guess I'll take the hit for that. Worse case scenario I spend what you quote which wouldn't be so bad since I purchase the car rather cheap anyways.

Thanks for the heads up

[DHall1]

I didn't even get to start the popcorn.

FMIC....I guess you could screw it to the front of the bumper.

All joking aside, till you hold one of these exhaust manifolds in your hands....you will quickly realize the limits.

[RS6Goals]

I didn't even get to start the popcorn.

FMIC....I guess you could screw it to the front of the bumper.

All joking aside, till you hold one of these exhaust manifolds in your hands....you will quickly realize the limits.

Funny you say that because i was just looking at ebay to see if I can find a cheap one to try out instead of pulling mine out just to see.

[Aronis]

This should be a fun thread to watch!

Let the games begin!

And don't forget about electronic gremlins that will BUST your balls to no end.

And......15 year old inner parts.......if your going to 'build' your engine to 600plus hp you have to rebuild your engine to 450 hp first.

Mike

[RS6Goals]

This should be a fun thread to watch!

Let the games begin!

And don't forget about electronic gremlins that will BUST your balls to no end.

And......15 year old inner parts.......if your going to 'build' your engine to 600plus hp you have to rebuild your engine to 450 hp first.

Mike

What kind of electronic gremlins are common on this car?
I had 2000 Jeep once with wiring issues... that was a pain.

hmm why would it need a rebuild for a mere 450hp when I'm seeing it can be pushed for 600hp?
car only has 120k.

isnt 450 is still in the chip/intake/exhaust category?

[Aronis]

What kind of electronic gremlins are common on this car?
I had 2000 Jeep once with wiring issues... that was a pain.

hmm why would it need a rebuild for a mere 450hp when I'm seeing it can be pushed for 600hp?
car only has 120k.

isnt 450 is still in the chip/intake/exhaust category?

It's 15 years old. The parts of the whole which allow the car to be able to produce 450 hp in stock form are WORN and not functioning at peak performance. Thus "rebuild the engine to make 450 hp first......" If you just add new components to a weak, elderly base engine, it will die! So in your quest for more power from this old platform ( as opposed to the early modified cars such as the MTM monster done with cars a couple years old with few miles on them) you must consider this also.

For example, my wire harness had to practically bare wires running to the secondary air pump. A wisp of insulation between them stood between function and fire!

Mechanical parts subject to friction and heat, for example the cam tensioner pads wear out and can have catastrophic effects, the repair takes several hours of labor and close to $1700 in parts. About 15 hours from a sitting car, but less than three if the engine is out.

Engine seals, which are difficult to get at without an engine pull, a transmission separation and many hours of labor, leak! - rear main seal flange for example.

The electrical gremlins I speak of are out there lurking for all of us with this old car to soon experience. Mark my words. I happened to be the first to see the failed DRC and predicted that every DRC would fail. Search the thread I posted 12 years ago. And now I am the first to see this issue with the odd short at fuse 15. Not much out there on it. DAM IT. (it goes to instrument panel and A/C some how, bentley manual is not complete in this). Other things just wear out, ignition switch, microswitches in doors, etc.

So if your goal is to take a 15 year old engine and maximize it's output at the crank, you have to make sure that its in the shape you need it to be to start! IE. "Rebuild it to 450 hp first."

Mike

[RS6Goals]

It's 15 years old. The parts of the whole which allow the car to be able to produce 450 hp in stock form are WORN and not functioning at peak performance. Thus "rebuild the engine to make 450 hp first......" If you just add new components to a weak, elderly base engine, it will die! So in your quest for more power from this old platform ( as opposed to the early modified cars such as the MTM monster done with cars a couple years old with few miles on them) you must consider this also.

For example, my wire harness had to practically bare wires running to the secondary air pump. A wisp of insulation between them stood between function and fire!

Mechanical parts subject to friction and heat, for example the cam tensioner pads wear out and can have catastrophic effects, the repair takes several hours of labor and close to $1700 in parts. About 15 hours from a sitting car, but less than three if the engine is out.

Engine seals, which are difficult to get at without an engine pull, a transmission separation and many hours of labor, leak! - rear main seal flange for example.

The electrical gremlins I speak of are out there lurking for all of us with this old car to soon experience. Mark my words. I happened to be the first to see the failed DRC and predicted that every DRC would fail. Search the thread I posted 12 years ago. And now I am the first to see this issue with the odd short at fuse 15. Not much out there on it. DAM IT. (it goes to instrument panel and A/C some how, bentley manual is not complete in this). Other things just wear out, ignition switch, microswitches in doors, etc.

So if your goal is to take a 15 year old engine and maximize it's output at the crank, you have to make sure that its in the shape you need it to be to start! IE. "Rebuild it to 450 hp first."

Mike

Oh your talking about a full reset. I belong on the other side of that thinking, I like to push what I have(after the basic maintenance/everything is up and running/comp/leak test.) If I'm opening the engine its getting upgraded internals, if I do that I will end up shooting into the higher hp goal.

Thanks for the heads up, ill make sure to double check the wirings when I drop the engine.

[Ebtahi98]

Electronic gremlins, I can refer you to my good friend Mike who has his entire Dash taken apart because something in his heater or heating switch or God only knows what it is started smoking so if you want to talk gremlins I'll just forward you to him and you guys can talk about gizmo ! Lol 😂

[Bigglezworth]

OMG this is funny.



I don't profess to run the fastest RS6 out there, but I am a far cry away from the slowest. These cars can lay down 3.5 0-60 and 1.6 60ft time slips. They can also be in mid 11's in the 1/4mile WITHOUT different turbos or a 6spd. Run the numbers and you can quickly ascertain how much HP/TQ you're talking about to get a 4300-4400pb car that distance in that time.

To the original poster, how much faster do you need to be for a 4dr luxury sport car? You must really really want to prove a point. That or you have mounds of money in disposable cash. I can think of dozens of other rides out there that you will realize a more rewarding end result for less than this platform.

[nubcake]

These cars can lay down 3.5 0-60 and 1.6 60ft time slips. They can also be in mid 11's in the 1/4mile WITHOUT different turbos or a 6spd.

Pardon my ignorance, but I'm yet to see <3.8 0-60 and <12 quarter from stock turbos automatic RS6 on pump gas. And I've seen many.

Realistically you're looking at low 4s and low 12s. Just barely sub-4s if you're lucky.
Talking "normal road conditions" ofc. Numbers you quoted might be achievable on prepped track.

EDIT:
Made an emphasis on what I was talking about. Not arguing that it can go faster on track and with some race gas mixed in.
But you shouldn't really be expecting to hang with all the new cars that can go mid 3s 0-60 on the way from grocery store.

[Bigglezworth]

Pardon my ignorance, but I'm yet to see <3.8 0-60 and <12 quarter from stock turbos automatic RS6 on pump gas. And I've seen a lot of them.

Realistically you're looking at low 4s and low 12s. Just barely sub-4s if you're lucky.
Talking "normal road conditions" ofc. Numbers you quoted might be achievable on prepped track.

PM me. I have video....

[RS6Goals]

OMG this is funny.

I don't profess to run the fastest RS6 out there, but I am a far cry away from the slowest. These cars can lay down 3.5 0-60 and 1.6 60ft time slips. They can also be in mid 11's in the 1/4mile WITHOUT different turbos or a 6spd. Run the numbers and you can quickly ascertain how much HP/TQ you're talking about to get a 4300-4400pb car that distance in that time.

To the original poster, how much faster do you need to be for a 4dr luxury sport car? You must really really want to prove a point. That or you have mounds of money in disposable cash. I can think of dozens of other rides out there that you will realize a more rewarding end result for less than this platform.

Why do you say 4300-4400? When I looked this up it's in 4100lbs.

I don't have a point to prove. I just like my cars to be fast (fast to me). It's unreasonable I know. Its just one of those things. I'm sure you know what I'm talking about otherwise, you probably wouldn't have owned an RS6.

Im all ears about the other platform. I've been searching for quite a while and this car meets 80% of my requirements.
I thought I looked at all options but It wouldn't surprise me if I missed one.


Just a heads up I'm picky to what I want. Heres something I require.
AWD
V8 torque
turbo preferred but SC is fine
manual prefered but willing to overlook(Yes I looked at manual conversion before I purchased this car)
Light (yea this is the only thing RS6 didnt meet for me)
5 seater(could be 4 if coupe)
power=this just means mods but a good base helps.


What I will no longer touch.
Torqueless wonders. even at 3.0L supras has a big lag(which is why I prefer v8) So this really cuts out the s4/wrx/evo/eclipse/talons
RWD at high power sucks on the streets. I was only at 600whp and with 315 DR I still had no 1st or 2nd traction.
and of course no 2 seater

Only option other than this car was building my own LS based AWD.

[Bigglezworth]

Why do you say 4300-4400? When I looked this up it's in 4100lbs.

Dude. I don't know how skinny your ass is, but mine adds a solid 200+ soaking wet to that 4100, and if you then add a helmet and actually wearing clothes that day at the track, you're easily at 4300-4400....

[RS6Goals]

Dude. I don't know how skinny your ass is, but mine adds a solid 200+ soaking wet to that 4100, and if you then add a helmet and actually wearing clothes that day at the track, you're easily at 4300-4400....

Oh, I wasnt talking track so I didnt know you were talking about race weight with driver type weigh in.

I'm still waiting for your suggestion btw. Id be happy to consider other options if it will actually be rewarding and not disappointing in the end.

I can think of dozens of other rides out there that you will realize a more rewarding end result for less than this platform.