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Thread: Where are all the modded C5 RS6 at? 500awhp to 800awhp+?

  1. #19
    Registered User Aronis's Avatar
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    This should be a fun thread to watch!

    Let the games begin!

    And don't forget about electronic gremlins that will BUST your balls to no end.

    And......15 year old inner parts.......if your going to 'build' your engine to 600plus hp you have to rebuild your engine to 450 hp first.

    Mike
    2018 BMW M5 Black Sapphire Metallic, 2015 Q7 S-Line Daytona Grey Pearl Effect
    (prior 2000 A6 4.2 sport, traded, 2003 RS6, sold, 2016 BMW M2, traded)

  2. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aronis View Post
    This should be a fun thread to watch!

    Let the games begin!

    And don't forget about electronic gremlins that will BUST your balls to no end.

    And......15 year old inner parts.......if your going to 'build' your engine to 600plus hp you have to rebuild your engine to 450 hp first.

    Mike
    What kind of electronic gremlins are common on this car?
    I had 2000 Jeep once with wiring issues... that was a pain.

    hmm why would it need a rebuild for a mere 450hp when I'm seeing it can be pushed for 600hp?
    car only has 120k.

    isnt 450 is still in the chip/intake/exhaust category?

  3. #21
    Registered User Aronis's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RS6Goals View Post
    What kind of electronic gremlins are common on this car?
    I had 2000 Jeep once with wiring issues... that was a pain.

    hmm why would it need a rebuild for a mere 450hp when I'm seeing it can be pushed for 600hp?
    car only has 120k.

    isnt 450 is still in the chip/intake/exhaust category?
    It's 15 years old. The parts of the whole which allow the car to be able to produce 450 hp in stock form are WORN and not functioning at peak performance. Thus "rebuild the engine to make 450 hp first......" If you just add new components to a weak, elderly base engine, it will die! So in your quest for more power from this old platform ( as opposed to the early modified cars such as the MTM monster done with cars a couple years old with few miles on them) you must consider this also.

    For example, my wire harness had to practically bare wires running to the secondary air pump. A wisp of insulation between them stood between function and fire!

    Mechanical parts subject to friction and heat, for example the cam tensioner pads wear out and can have catastrophic effects, the repair takes several hours of labor and close to $1700 in parts. About 15 hours from a sitting car, but less than three if the engine is out.

    Engine seals, which are difficult to get at without an engine pull, a transmission separation and many hours of labor, leak! - rear main seal flange for example.

    The electrical gremlins I speak of are out there lurking for all of us with this old car to soon experience. Mark my words. I happened to be the first to see the failed DRC and predicted that every DRC would fail. Search the thread I posted 12 years ago. And now I am the first to see this issue with the odd short at fuse 15. Not much out there on it. DAM IT. (it goes to instrument panel and A/C some how, bentley manual is not complete in this). Other things just wear out, ignition switch, microswitches in doors, etc.

    So if your goal is to take a 15 year old engine and maximize it's output at the crank, you have to make sure that its in the shape you need it to be to start! IE. "Rebuild it to 450 hp first."

    Mike
    2018 BMW M5 Black Sapphire Metallic, 2015 Q7 S-Line Daytona Grey Pearl Effect
    (prior 2000 A6 4.2 sport, traded, 2003 RS6, sold, 2016 BMW M2, traded)

  4. #22
    Registered User Bigglezworth's Avatar
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    OMG this is funny.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    I don't profess to run the fastest RS6 out there, but I am a far cry away from the slowest. These cars can lay down 3.5 0-60 and 1.6 60ft time slips. They can also be in mid 11's in the 1/4mile WITHOUT different turbos or a 6spd. Run the numbers and you can quickly ascertain how much HP/TQ you're talking about to get a 4300-4400pb car that distance in that time.

    To the original poster, how much faster do you need to be for a 4dr luxury sport car? You must really really want to prove a point. That or you have mounds of money in disposable cash. I can think of dozens of other rides out there that you will realize a more rewarding end result for less than this platform.
    '02 S6 Avant Silver - Pokey | Carbon Black/Ebony RS6 w/ stuff - darn quick | '03 Daytona Grey/Ebony RS6 w/ more stuff - quicker yet | '91 NSX CDN issue with 6spd & BBSC - quicker yet and then some | '87 Buick GNX OEM clone w/ lots of stuff - quickest hands down

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bigglezworth View Post
    These cars can lay down 3.5 0-60 and 1.6 60ft time slips. They can also be in mid 11's in the 1/4mile WITHOUT different turbos or a 6spd.
    Pardon my ignorance, but I'm yet to see <3.8 0-60 and <12 quarter from stock turbos automatic RS6 on pump gas. And I've seen many.

    Realistically you're looking at low 4s and low 12s. Just barely sub-4s if you're lucky.
    Talking "normal road conditions" ofc. Numbers you quoted might be achievable on prepped track.

    EDIT:
    Made an emphasis on what I was talking about. Not arguing that it can go faster on track and with some race gas mixed in.
    But you shouldn't really be expecting to hang with all the new cars that can go mid 3s 0-60 on the way from grocery store.
    Last edited by nubcake; March 12th, 2018 at 01:30.

  6. #24
    Registered User Bigglezworth's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nubcake View Post
    Pardon my ignorance, but I'm yet to see <3.8 0-60 and <12 quarter from stock turbos automatic RS6 on pump gas. And I've seen a lot of them.

    Realistically you're looking at low 4s and low 12s. Just barely sub-4s if you're lucky.
    Talking "normal road conditions" ofc. Numbers you quoted might be achievable on prepped track.
    PM me. I have video....
    '02 S6 Avant Silver - Pokey | Carbon Black/Ebony RS6 w/ stuff - darn quick | '03 Daytona Grey/Ebony RS6 w/ more stuff - quicker yet | '91 NSX CDN issue with 6spd & BBSC - quicker yet and then some | '87 Buick GNX OEM clone w/ lots of stuff - quickest hands down

  7. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aronis View Post
    It's 15 years old. The parts of the whole which allow the car to be able to produce 450 hp in stock form are WORN and not functioning at peak performance. Thus "rebuild the engine to make 450 hp first......" If you just add new components to a weak, elderly base engine, it will die! So in your quest for more power from this old platform ( as opposed to the early modified cars such as the MTM monster done with cars a couple years old with few miles on them) you must consider this also.

    For example, my wire harness had to practically bare wires running to the secondary air pump. A wisp of insulation between them stood between function and fire!

    Mechanical parts subject to friction and heat, for example the cam tensioner pads wear out and can have catastrophic effects, the repair takes several hours of labor and close to $1700 in parts. About 15 hours from a sitting car, but less than three if the engine is out.

    Engine seals, which are difficult to get at without an engine pull, a transmission separation and many hours of labor, leak! - rear main seal flange for example.

    The electrical gremlins I speak of are out there lurking for all of us with this old car to soon experience. Mark my words. I happened to be the first to see the failed DRC and predicted that every DRC would fail. Search the thread I posted 12 years ago. And now I am the first to see this issue with the odd short at fuse 15. Not much out there on it. DAM IT. (it goes to instrument panel and A/C some how, bentley manual is not complete in this). Other things just wear out, ignition switch, microswitches in doors, etc.

    So if your goal is to take a 15 year old engine and maximize it's output at the crank, you have to make sure that its in the shape you need it to be to start! IE. "Rebuild it to 450 hp first."

    Mike
    Oh your talking about a full reset. I belong on the other side of that thinking, I like to push what I have(after the basic maintenance/everything is up and running/comp/leak test.) If I'm opening the engine its getting upgraded internals, if I do that I will end up shooting into the higher hp goal.

    Thanks for the heads up, ill make sure to double check the wirings when I drop the engine.

  8. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bigglezworth View Post
    OMG this is funny.

    I don't profess to run the fastest RS6 out there, but I am a far cry away from the slowest. These cars can lay down 3.5 0-60 and 1.6 60ft time slips. They can also be in mid 11's in the 1/4mile WITHOUT different turbos or a 6spd. Run the numbers and you can quickly ascertain how much HP/TQ you're talking about to get a 4300-4400pb car that distance in that time.

    To the original poster, how much faster do you need to be for a 4dr luxury sport car? You must really really want to prove a point. That or you have mounds of money in disposable cash. I can think of dozens of other rides out there that you will realize a more rewarding end result for less than this platform.
    Why do you say 4300-4400? When I looked this up it's in 4100lbs.

    I don't have a point to prove. I just like my cars to be fast (fast to me). It's unreasonable I know. Its just one of those things. I'm sure you know what I'm talking about otherwise, you probably wouldn't have owned an RS6.

    Im all ears about the other platform. I've been searching for quite a while and this car meets 80% of my requirements.
    I thought I looked at all options but It wouldn't surprise me if I missed one.


    Just a heads up I'm picky to what I want. Heres something I require.
    AWD
    V8 torque
    turbo preferred but SC is fine
    manual prefered but willing to overlook(Yes I looked at manual conversion before I purchased this car)
    Light (yea this is the only thing RS6 didnt meet for me)
    5 seater(could be 4 if coupe)
    power=this just means mods but a good base helps.


    What I will no longer touch.
    Torqueless wonders. even at 3.0L supras has a big lag(which is why I prefer v8) So this really cuts out the s4/wrx/evo/eclipse/talons
    RWD at high power sucks on the streets. I was only at 600whp and with 315 DR I still had no 1st or 2nd traction.
    and of course no 2 seater

    Only option other than this car was building my own LS based AWD.

  9. #27
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    Wait

    let me go get some popcorn

  10. #28
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    Your efforts would be better directed towards a C7 S6 or better yet an RS7 if you're into the sportback look. What you will spend in time/R&D/buckets of cash chasing this rabbit is readily available for that platform.

    If you stick with the C5, tune it to a proven 525-ish hp, keep up on maintenance and enjoy it.
    03 RS6 Avus/Ebony #905593 resurrected 6MT, 04 Avalanche Z71, 87 T-Bird Turbo Coupe (351W T5), 04 Aprilia RSVR Factory

  11. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by RS6Goals View Post
    Why do you say 4300-4400? When I looked this up it's in 4100lbs.
    Dude. I don't know how skinny your ass is, but mine adds a solid 200+ soaking wet to that 4100, and if you then add a helmet and actually wearing clothes that day at the track, you're easily at 4300-4400....
    '02 S6 Avant Silver - Pokey | Carbon Black/Ebony RS6 w/ stuff - darn quick | '03 Daytona Grey/Ebony RS6 w/ more stuff - quicker yet | '91 NSX CDN issue with 6spd & BBSC - quicker yet and then some | '87 Buick GNX OEM clone w/ lots of stuff - quickest hands down

  12. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by bethridg View Post
    Your efforts would be better directed towards a C7 S6 or better yet an RS7 if you're into the sportback look. What you will spend in time/R&D/buckets of cash chasing this rabbit is readily available for that platform.

    If you stick with the C5, tune it to a proven 525-ish hp, keep up on maintenance and enjoy it.

    Im not following this logic. Unless im missing something isnt the c7 s6 only rated at 420hp? so even after a chipped RS6, s6 is more money for slower?

    and not to be an @$$ but did you really just bring up a RS7 into this, I mean the price difference alone...I don't know about your financial situation but I certainly cannot afford a 100k car
    Last edited by RS6Goals; March 12th, 2018 at 07:38.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bigglezworth View Post
    Dude. I don't know how skinny your ass is, but mine adds a solid 200+ soaking wet to that 4100, and if you then add a helmet and actually wearing clothes that day at the track, you're easily at 4300-4400....
    Oh, I wasnt talking track so I didnt know you were talking about race weight with driver type weigh in.

    I'm still waiting for your suggestion btw. Id be happy to consider other options if it will actually be rewarding and not disappointing in the end.

    Quote Originally Posted by Bigglezworth View Post
    I can think of dozens of other rides out there that you will realize a more rewarding end result for less than this platform.

  14. #32
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    Youtube is your friend

    10sec C7 S6 is simple bolt ons and a tune.

    10sec C5 RS6 does not exist

    all in a 10sec S6 will cost you under 40k

    even if you picked up a cheap RS6 for 10k...30k does not get you in the 10s

    Quote Originally Posted by RS6Goals View Post
    Im not following this logic. Unless im missing something isnt the c7 s6 only rated at 420hp? so even after a chipped RS6, s6 is more money for slower?

    and not to be an @$$ but did you really just bring up a RS7 into this, I mean the price difference alone...I don't know about your financial situation but I certainly cannot afford a 100k car

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    Quote Originally Posted by DHall1 View Post
    Youtube is your friend

    10sec C7 S6 is simple bolt ons and a tune.

    10sec C5 RS6 does not exist

    all in a 10sec S6 will cost you under 40k

    even if you picked up a cheap RS6 for 10k...30k does not get you in the 10s
    I find it hard to believe that there's not a single C5 RS6 in the world that runs 10. Either way, I don't know why you're bringing up 1/4 mile times when I kept saying street DD use. All I was asking for was 600whp to start and moving into the 800whp category later down the line. are you telling me this isn't attainable too?

    You must have a lot of money to burn to be throwing around a 40k car. I hope you can at least understand that not everyone can just dump an additional 30k in one go. Well at least I cant.

    Edit: Suppose to say I can't (drop 30k) not I can.


    Does majority in this forum think this way too?
    Last edited by RS6Goals; March 12th, 2018 at 14:47.

  16. #34
    Registered User Bigglezworth's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RS6Goals View Post
    I find it hard to believe that there's not a single C5 RS6 in the world that runs 10. Either way, I don't know why you're bringing up 1/4 mile times when I kept saying street DD use. All I was asking for was 600whp to start and moving into the 800whp category later down the line. are you telling me this isn't attainable too?

    You must have a lot of money to burn to be throwing around a 40k car. I hope you can at least understand that not everyone can just dump an additional 30k in one go. Well at least I can.

    Does majority in this forum think this way too?
    600whp is a stretch. Assuming 15-18% drivetrain loss anyway. 800whp is a waste of time on this platform. Parts are simply too expensive, and labour simply too high - even if you wrench and fab yourself. Yes, you have to account for your own time at some point when it starts to exceed 'maintenance'.

    There 'might' be a C5 running a 10sec slip, but it's not on this forum. IF there is one, it's a far cry from normal and includes a host of $$$ to lay claim to doing so.

    Asked and answered....
    '02 S6 Avant Silver - Pokey | Carbon Black/Ebony RS6 w/ stuff - darn quick | '03 Daytona Grey/Ebony RS6 w/ more stuff - quicker yet | '91 NSX CDN issue with 6spd & BBSC - quicker yet and then some | '87 Buick GNX OEM clone w/ lots of stuff - quickest hands down

  17. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by RS6Goals View Post
    Oh, I wasnt talking track so I didnt know you were talking about race weight with driver type weigh in.
    I don't understand your logic. Whether you're on the street, or on the track, you will always have a driver in the car adding weight to the total package that is being pushed along. Remove the jack, spare tire, and take a good dump before you leave home for othe day and you save a few pounds yes.

    Quote Originally Posted by RS6Goals View Post
    I'm still waiting for your suggestion btw. Id be happy to consider other options if it will actually be rewarding and not disappointing in the end.
    Porsche, C7 Audi platform, SRT Grand Cherokee are a trio that pop to mind for AWD. The list opens up for RWD options.
    '02 S6 Avant Silver - Pokey | Carbon Black/Ebony RS6 w/ stuff - darn quick | '03 Daytona Grey/Ebony RS6 w/ more stuff - quicker yet | '91 NSX CDN issue with 6spd & BBSC - quicker yet and then some | '87 Buick GNX OEM clone w/ lots of stuff - quickest hands down

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    I only talk about without driver because it's more consistent. Driver weight and gear vary. But a lot...


    And Cherokee is out it's an SUV. Not to mention it's 4700... I'd be slower how is that any better as a base.
    C7 can you be a bit specific? And pretty sure it's going to be pricey.
    And I'm pretty sure any porsche that's worth discussing will be way too expensive.

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