Selling my RS6. I just need a truck
Selling my RS6. I just need a truck
OP I daily drive my RS6 it's been an amazing experience doing so thus far. As Rah mentioned upthread: keep maintenance up to date, timing belt every 35K and you will be just fine.
Extended service contract has paid for minor repair items: alternator, valve covers & control arms which are to be expected given the age of the RS6.
Very rewarding experience and I'd be hard pressed to replace the RS6 with any another sub $40K late model sport sedan. The 2013 S6's are looking nice though....
Current: Black Pearl Metallic Effect/Ebony, RNS-E, Euro + pedals, oCarbon, Hotchkiss Front & Rear Sway Bars, Koni Yellow's
1962 Chevy C10 w/ 401 Buick Nailhead
1955 Chrysler C300 w/ factory 331 Hemi
1999 Infiniti I30..............One of these is not like the others.
"un-biased" RS6 Owner. Well that rules me out!
My input:
Based on experience have and see no concerns with the engine making the 100-200K mile leap. Mileage does not equal good, low mileage that is. I just boroscoped a 145K example while resealing the sump oil pan. I also 'scoped the cylinders prior to engine installation. It was excellent, better than the dead 135K lump I pulled out. Have looked inside 3 engines so far (including my own).
Maintenance is key. 5K oil changes seems ideal for general commuting. Timing belt service can be deferred some but see issues with the pulleys and water pumps.
From what I've also seen, extended DD'ing will have a net loss on keeping up on the car' needs. It can be made up for with chunks of down time. DIY'ers will utilize their weekends for RS nurturing and maintenance/upgrade immersion. Major issues require engine removal. That's nearly anything not on the front of the motor. Some will suffer thru it and bend/breake stuff out of the way to make it work.
The Autobox will survive if heavily serviced. Have done enough of them, including trans on their deathbed (noises, slippage, clunks). Have yet to see one that wasn't low on oil or needed service.
My disposition towards the trans was similar. How could I live with such an amazing car and NOT shift gears. I have 2 other sporty MT cars, and after some miles realized the slushbox was pretty good. Need a taller OD however. A good TCU tune is mandatory. Seems MTM rules the roost, I like it the best of the handful of tuned RS's I've driven. I'm hoping one of the newer auto boxes would fit....
Might have been a joke regarding the 1-2-3 thrashing. I see no reason to beat on the car to keep it healthy. My old Alfa Romeo, yes- absolutely. Every 3 weeks or it wasn't happy. Blow the junk out. Great mill, way over square revver with good torque (how they did that is beyond me w/o VVT, etc).
Think Ferrari (FF) except in a German Sedan...
RS6 is not all that great in the snow, even with good tires. Mine oversteers (I like it, wife doesn't). If lowered there's no clearance for more than 3" of accumulation. Any more and it'll tear up the $650 splash shield/undertray/belly pan. The car is a hoot and will accelerate so fast it'll scare you knowing how hard it is to turn or slow down. 25 cent joy ride of death. Is there any other way? Maybe one more..
Jeep Cherokee? A near deathtrap and useless 4x4 system. Good for digging out after in the ditch. When it snows my Jeep sits. Stick with AWD.
Honda? Egads. Our Ridgeline was a POS but was great/fun in the snow. Bad trannys, had to pull the engine for a failed rear main seal at 77K. Terrible MPG. Crazy good handling with summer wheels.
Get the RS6, enjoy, suffer, learn, wrangle one of the finest machines ever put on the road (that no one knows about). I've driven the RS4, R8, S5 V8 (not since the 590hp upgrade however), near countless RS6's. Can't get more engineering or performance or the money. But it'll still cost. Absolutely love this car and hope to have mine "forever".
So much for the self talk to keep this short, cheers to all! Back to work on my RS6 now
1962 Chevy C10 w/ 401 Buick Nailhead
1955 Chrysler C300 w/ factory 331 Hemi
1999 Infiniti I30..............One of these is not like the others.
I very much disagree with this statement. This car is untouchable in the snow. Run top of the line Hakka's and nothing including SUV's, 4x4's, and other AWD cars can plow the streets and drive through slush and snow like this ride. It's so much fun and such a total control feeling, that I frequently turn the traction control off to inject some bonkers fun. It's specifically the reason I continue to drive one as I'm subject to winter conditions at any point of time for a 6 month period each year.
'02 S6 Avant Silver - Pokey | Carbon Black/Ebony RS6 w/ stuff - darn quick | '03 Daytona Grey/Ebony RS6 w/ more stuff - quicker yet | '91 NSX CDN issue with 6spd & BBSC - quicker yet and then some | '87 Buick GNX OEM clone w/ lots of stuff - quickest hands down
Glad you are happy with yours.
T'wasn't a finite statement by any means: It's also a matter of perspective-- box checked -- numerous Audi's/vehicles. The RS is especially sensitive to the tires one runs. And what suspension one has. Which brake pads even.
In terms of older Audi's in the snow, the RS6 is not nearly as sure footed as lesser models. It's okay...mine is okay, and is geared towards summer performance. The power, heft and wide tires work against it. It can be fun, I agree, and do the same thing in the white fluffy stuff. Agree that with 2600lbs on the front axle is does well as a slush plow also...
Damn ABS, however. Need to code that out with TCS off...(Anyone?). Maybe I will wire in a kill relay to the pump-- see how many DTC's and dash lights that sets off!
With that said, it's one of the few cars of it's breed that can pull double duty: Snow plow and autobahn burner second to few. Truly the all-season super sedan.
14 years, 14 winters, upstate New York (3 in very upstate NY) as my primary GoTo car for snow storms and daily drive. I have used 255's snows since my first year as the narrower 235's were not available in December when I got the car.
In Malone I was on call 20 out of 30 nights and had to drive to the hospital at 2 am many times with 8 to 10 inches of snow on the roads. I never had a problem with my RS6. I did see many SUV's off the road in the same setting. It's partly the car, partly the tires and mostly the driver.
I did the same for 5 years in NH and then Malone with a M3 with rear wheel drive and snow tires. That was my only car for those years, prior to that a 325is. The GottaHaveAnSUV for the snow crowd is unfortunately just scared of the snow! AWD is an advantage for sure, but not essential if you have winter driving skills. I cut my teeth driving a '76 Cutlass S in BOSTON in the snow LOL. Rear wheel drive, all season 1976 tires, no ABS, no Traction control, etc.
The AWD of the Audi's is great, but even an AWD car can be driven poorly and end off upside down off the road.
But to say "the RS6 is not that good in the snow" is more a measure of the driver than of the car!
By the way, I drive my M2 in the snow as well. Maybe I am just lucky? But when the going gets rough, I can't call-in due to 'snow.'
Mike
'18 BMW M5, '19 Porsche Boxster GTS
(prior '94 325is, '97 M3, '00 A6 4.2,'03 RS6,'08 A4 Cab,'13 A8L,'15 Q7,'16 BMW M2,
I had Blizzaks and in the ever-changing PNW weather (Rain, Rain, and more Rain, snow, slushy, etc not quite like "Cowtown") 905355 sure felt planted regardless of weather conditions.
Somewhere around here, Randy @MaxRS6 has his ice donuts behind Walmart...
Summer tires = Michelin Pilot Super Sports would be my preference. Had $hitbird Hankooks and wouldn't recommend them ever...
SOLD - 03 RS6 Avus (905355)
Current - 03 Toyota Tacoma 4x4 double cab - the YETI, lifted, winched, snorkeled, lockered, skidded, geared
A tuned Audi (or any high powered car) is more sensitive in the snow versus its untuned siblings.
Having several programs with one low power (low boost) will help.
My P-O-S 1999 Infinit I30 left me stranded with a dead battery twice yesterday (one of the consequences of letting small children play in the car without supervision). My patience with it is ending.
Ended up replacing the battery: cost of $102. By my calculation that is 6% to 10% the value of the vehicle (cost-to-equity ratio). On a comparable cost-to-equity ratio of a $1,500 timing belt replacement for a good condition RS6.
It'd rather put $1,500 into an RS6 than $102 into my P-O-S.
1962 Chevy C10 w/ 401 Buick Nailhead
1955 Chrysler C300 w/ factory 331 Hemi
1999 Infiniti I30..............One of these is not like the others.
> It'd rather put $1,500 into an RS6 than $102 into my P-O-S.
That's the proper frame of mind.
My daily driver is a C5 S6 because I don't want to put too much unnecessary wear & tear on the RS6A. Every now and then I get the itch to drive the RS, and I'm always glad I did! A stock S6 is a very capable and fun car (and might be more practical for someone with young kids) but as long as you're prepared to keep up with maintenance I don't see any reason *not* to drive an RS6.
'02 RS6 Avant conversion
'03 S8 Avus
'89 964
$1500 is just the entry fee, but well worth it.
There's no question I'd choose the RS6 as a DD and basically have for years. However I'd tone down my KW3's a couple notches. By the 4th day i'm about done for the week (on 19's). Those shocks are TRICKY to sort out. But with the new R-compounds should be a perfect aggressive summer setup. Can't wait to track the 2 tonner! Race guy says a few laps of PIR will cook the brakes. May step up to legit race pads to try to prove him wrong...
Just put Koni's on with stock springs on for a regional car. That turned out really well, but surprisingly firm. Too firm says my race guy, whom does my alignments. Car is a total sleeper with Hotchkiss bars and OE wheels- it handles and is VERY planted. Shocks are adj. of course, but it's a one time setup ( I should do a post on it). Reminds me of a near new B6S4 Avant i bought- really dialed in damping and tight handling. Just needed more tire. Like the RS6...
Awhile back had sent Bilsteins to another RS6'er, sport springs, with Hotchkiss sways (and a bunch of other stuff). Bilstein at this point is my first choice. Best static shock out there me thinks. Disclosure, I've only driven and ridden in a PSS9 car. Impressive ride quality to say the least. Have put on many Bilstein shocks on other vehicles over the years, however.
Basically you need/want soft shocks in the winter to improve traction. Another nod to the dynamics of Bilstein' shock design. Or a working DRC system, I suppose.
Of course the car will do well enough in the snow even with good A/S tires. Ain't a great handler but still fun as heck and plenty of power to pull out of any "uh oh" situations-- normally power induced ones.
Seems a great time to buy these cars. One of my friends/clients just picked up that REALLY cheap Mugello Blue one in Seattle. Will have it on the lift very soon.
Gotta keep wrenching on mine...letting the t-belt tensioning process "marinate" over nite before syncing the cam/crank. Should help head up typical belt stretch and timing retardation that eventually occurs. Better belt helps too.
Back to work now.
Cheers, G2/Gary
C5-RS6/KWV3/Revo/H20 Inj./Custom BBK/Custom cooling/CNC arms \ VW Touareg V10 \ B7A4 2.0T Avant \ Mk1 Callaway Scirocco \ audirs6parts@gmail.com / www.oilpro.myamsoil.com
Great experience Mike....have some similar experiences, in often less than ideal cars. Even power drifted my 35' diesel coach for fun-- on a 2 lane road, in the Wisconsin ice. Numerous track days, auto-crosses, nutty back roads driving in fast cars, driving in icy mountains with worn out summer tires, list goes on in all sorts of vehicles. Including a '76 Ford LTD landyacht- but no it wasn't 1976.
Even on 2 wheels. Was a CAT2 and Pro class Norba racer, won lots of stuff, even a scholarship to Olympic Training Center in CO. Learned the ways of the Corners quite well. Power on over steer in the PNW wet with 200 racers on 23mm tires all trying to win with some big teams. (beat them all, btw).
Pretty good driver here Glad you are too, cheers.
I was going to look at the blue one in Seattle but settled for the "done" car.
As for suspension mine came with PSS9's which I almost got rid of since my other two have Ohlins (and there is a rebuilt set available for the RS6 at my local shop) and they are far superior but a lot of $$$ to buy and rebuild every year or so. I have since gotten used to the PSS9's and really like them, for now. In three weeks of owning I've put on around 2500 miles of all freeway miles and it's an absolute blast to drive. Cruises right at 85 with the TDI 6th gear and don't really need to downshift for passing unless I want instant torque.
AMD C5 RS6 6-speed swap, PSS9s, 4:1 Center Diff, 515/635 pump/meth tune - RS6/K04 Turbos
AMD B5 S4 Laser Avant 6-speed, Stage 3///AMD C5 Allroad 6-speed swap///AMD B5 S4 3L Built with 770XR
Appreciate the input and tip. Personal experience? Sounds like i better install this H20 kit after all. Perfect timing with the t-belt service WIP.
Also have IC fans and logic controllers to wire in. Mainly for low speed anti-heat soak in town or pre-cooling if running at the drag strip.
Hopefully leaving in the Aux rads. will also pay off...
First-hand experience, yes. Unless you baby it, limp mode is likely. Here's hoping that your mods will keep it at bay a bit longer.
Of course, everyone says "I'm just out there for fun - I'm not gonna run flat-out", but then the red mist descends, and before you know it, you're driving a 4200-lb car with about 150-hp...