PSS9 - what else should be ordered for the install of these strut units?

[lbp]

I am installing a PSS9 strut kit on my '03 RS6.
Having already installed Hotchkis f/r + new poly suspension bushings all around, the failing DRC system is now obvious.

I have a couple of questions that I am sure the experts on this board can answer:

1.) Can anyone provide a comprehensive list for the bushing and other bits and pieces that should be replaced while the car is apart for the PSS9 installation?
In particular, are there any preferred aftermarket pieces that will help to further tighten the car, and be of higher quality, beyond what the stock items would do?

2.) Any recommendations for strut settings front/rear on the PSS9's?
Car will not be tracked but I appreciate a buttoned-down driving experience.

Many thanks in advance!
Lee.

[bethridg]

Front upper strut mount bushings (4D0412377F) are cheap while you're in there.

There is an 034 motorsport replacement for a little more that might tighten it up slightly; don't have them so can't offer any feedback - https://store.034motorsport.com/stru...s6-rs6-a8.html

Rear upper strut mounts (8E0512121E) are more expensive and seem to only be available aftermarket now. Probably not necessary.

Check upper/lower control arms, sway bar end links, tie rods for wear.

Rear control arm bushings if you feel adventurous. They are on my todo list but I haven't gotten around to doing anything with them.

Started this thread a while ago with part numbers but I'm still missing numbers for the lower inner rear.
http://www.rs6.com/showthread.php/32...ing?highlight=


Found this too with recommended settings.

http://forum.rs246.com/viewtopic.php?p=360448

[lbp]

Thanks buddy,
much appreciated.
I will check it out.

[lbp]

wow!
Nice write up on the PS9 installation.
Many Thanks Bethridg

[lbp]

Here is a reference to the rear inner control arm bushings:
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...ach/4b0505185/

[BradP]

Are they really setting front to rear the same (dampening)? I've felt the valving is the same front to rear which is bit disappointing.

Pre-diet street:
Front full stiff
Rear full soft

Pre-diet track:
Front full stiff (underdamped)
Rear 2 clicks from softest

Post- diet street:
Front 2 clicks from stiffest
Rear softest

Post-diet track:
Front stiffest
Rear 2 clicks from softest

I kinda' use brail, feel, and driving. Start on a speed bump that won't drag the exhaust. Slight bounce for street. Just stiff enough for zero bounce for track. Drive to confirm. Yes, the settings seem wacked.

[lbp]

who went on the diet...
The car?
((not sure I understand what pre/post-diet means))
lol.

Also, since the car naturally under-steers, I would think that the front should be softer than the rear, no??

[BradP]

Yes, the car is about 500 pounds lighter.

Understeer and oversteer are generally controlled by spring and sway bar stiffness relationships front to rear. In the case of front heavy Audis, my thought is the front tires are generally just plain overloaded. At lower weights lateral traction is a linear relationship to weight. There's a point with all tires the lateral traction begins to roll off with too much weight. Thus Audis understeer. Mine has been tweaked enough to be neutral in the dry, and still push a bit in the wet. I get the, how'd you do that, from passengers

[lbp]

Every car I have ever set up including my current Boss 302 & GT3RS are stiffer in the rear.
These are both setup as track cars, but I think the logic is same for a street car (even with a rear-engine and AWD in the conversation).

Obviously the first place to start is the bars, but this is not an option for the (Hotchkis) RS6.
The next thing would be to look at the spring rates but for now I am assuming that Bilstein knows what springs are needed for their kit on this car.

So the only option to soak up some energy, that will otherwise keep the car moving in a forward direction, is to soften the front relative to the rear on dampening. (don't really want to play with street tire pressures).
- Particularly since (correct me if I am wrong) these PSS9 shocks do not have separate (if any) rebound adjustment.

I was thinking about starting with a setting of 4 on the back and 5 on the front (I am assuming here that less numerical = stiffer).
However, I have seen a few posts that indicate PSS9 shock settings above numerical 4 to be useless, so maybe I'll end up starting with 3r/4f.

I'd like to get it right out of the box since I do not want an occasional street car to turn into another science project.
- I just need good ride feel and enough communication to enjoy the car.

I'd be grateful for any more opinions on these struts, and many thanks for those already offered, too.

[ben916]

Don't forget one of these -> apikol rear diff mount = link

Firms things up a bit as the OEM one is likely to rip.

Search for the Phaeton Brake cooling mod... since you are going to be in there anyway.

[lbp]

Cool.
Thanks!!

- Here is the list I have thus far (did I miss anything; any recommendations for the rear?):

SUBFRAME BUSHINGS, FRONT:
https://store.034motorsport.com/subf...7-chassis.html

DIFF CARRIER MOUNT PAIR (street):
https://store.034motorsport.com/diff...-c5-a6-s6.html

TIE ROD, METAL, HEAVY DUTY :
https://store.034motorsport.com/tie-...a4-s4-rs4.html

DRIVESHAFT CV BOOT REPAIR KIT:
https://store.034motorsport.com/driv...-vehicles.html

REAR DIFFERENTIAL MOUNT UPGRADE (street):
https://store.034motorsport.com/rear...6-allroad.html

*****************************
CONTROL ARM KIT, DENSITY LINE
https://store.034motorsport.com/cont...-uprights.html

NOTE: To ensure a long life for these control arms, when they are installed, it is IMPERATIVE that the suspension be compressed to static ride height before any suspension pivot bushings are tightened. If this is not done, bushings will tear as the twisting forces on them will be much higher than is intended. If you have any questions about this, please contact us to verify, if this is not done any warranty will be voided.
*****************************

STRUT MOUNT, FRONT, DENSITY LINE:
https://store.034motorsport.com/stru...s6-rs6-a8.html

TRANSMISSION MOUNT, DENSITY LINE (STREET VERSION)
https://store.034motorsport.com/tran...s4-s6-rs6.html

Although I will not need to worry about brake heat on trips around town, here is the Phaeton mod:
(actually, when it comes to brakes ((setup/use/season-dependent)), there is a thing know as too much cooling)
http://www.audiworld.com/tech/wheel60.shtml


- To completely overkill the project, here is the other stuff:

rear inner control arm bushings
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...ach/4b0505185/


rear outer control arm bushings
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...ch/8e0505172a/


rear tie rod (2 req)
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...ach/4z7501530/


rear shock upper bushing p/n: 8E0512121E
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-original...e0512121e~oes/

[bethridg]

SUBFRAME BUSHINGS, FRONT:
https://store.034motorsport.com/subf...7-chassis.html

Confirm these fit the C5 chassis. I only see B5/B6/B7 listed.

DRIVESHAFT CV BOOT REPAIR KIT:
https://store.034motorsport.com/driv...-vehicles.html

I just installed these on my prop-shaft. Good quality.

Replace CV joints if worn since you'll have to remove them anyway for boot replacement. (I think these are the same on the TIP shaft, I'm 01E now)
https://store.034motorsport.com/cent...-vehicles.html

Get yourself a jar of Red Line CV-2 Synthetic Grease.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Inspect center support bearing for tears in the rubber. I've got one of the following sitting on the shelf but was unable to separate the prop-shaft halves to replace. Will try again some other time.
https://store.034motorsport.com/driv...i-chassis.html

Or you can go the 3M Windo Weld route.
http://www.audizine.com/forum/showth...-3M-Windo-Weld

TIE ROD, METAL, HEAVY DUTY :
https://store.034motorsport.com/tie-...a4-s4-rs4.html

CONTROL ARM KIT, DENSITY LINE
https://store.034motorsport.com/cont...-uprights.html

Installed this kit 2-3k miles ago. Good stuff but have a boot that has split already. Bought a $20 Febi unit to steal the boot off of because they don't sell individual Density Line arms.

TRANSMISSION MOUNT, DENSITY LINE (STREET VERSION)
https://store.034motorsport.com/tran...s4-s6-rs6.html

You'll need 2x these. Again, no complaints so far after ~3k miles.

rear inner control arm bushings
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...ach/4b0505185/


rear outer control arm bushings
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...ch/8e0505172a/


rear tie rod (2 req)
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...ach/4z7501530/


rear shock upper bushing p/n: 8E0512121E
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-original...e0512121e~oes/

Treading in uncharted waters here. I only began looking into this because I was hunting down a squeak that turned out to be related to the Koni swap. This is still on my radar but lower priority now. I believe all of the rear control arm/knuckle bushings are press fit. You likely don't need to go this far.

[lbp]

Thanks Again Bethridg!

- Very helpful information.
Much appreciated.