Blinking MIL on....running rough.....where to start with repair?

[lswing]

I'm getting ready to pull engine in mine foremost to replace blown Trans with very low mi. Tozo rebuild I got from forum member doing manual swap. Trans has been toast for half a yr. With car sitting and occasionally started and brought to op. Temps for good measure and replacement Trans been sitting many months too. So I've been collecting lists, parts for what all to do - I know engine has never been out - car has 95k mi.s and well maintained but slightly weeping valve covers etc. I def. Had CCT pads on the list but should I be contemplating the units themselves? I'm really not too keen on dumping 1.4k in unneeded parts OR causing probs that don't exist (I'm one of those guys who "preventatively" changed Trans fluid and filter only to have implosion 500 mi.s later but we'll never 100% know that cause and effect nexus) AND I'm not trying to end up hating this car like so many others have spent themselves into doing. It just one of many hobbyist collector type cars I have but it's a really cool unique and clean sedan that I really like. Any opinions to try and help save me from myself are greatly appreciated.

Sounds like you are doing the labor right? If so, I'd just do the pads. The CCT's themselves can last 200k, I've heard of a few failing around 150k and it was the electronic solenoid.

I opted to switch out the complete units ($750 each) at 98k since a shop was doing the labor. At $100 an hour, 18 hours mixed with other things, I didn't want them going back in to fix the CCT's again/ever. It was service position, and they didn't know the car very well, so I'm sure you could do it in half the time with enough practice.

[lswing]

I have looked at the posts "What should I change when the engine is out."

The CCT must be changed at 100k period. This should be in the Audi manual.

I am selling it once it is running.

Mike

Too bad the CCT issue wasn't fixed earlier like you thought, or changed by your mechanic.

It's interesting, until mine failed at 98k last year, I hardly heard any chatter on here about changing the pads out, not a thing. I've had the engine out 4 times the last 5 years to change transmissions/steering rack, and would have certainly changed the pads at that point. At least we all know now!!!

You can't sell it, it's about to be completely fixed up, what could go wrong next?

[SteveKen]

If the valve cover gaskets were replaced, then it surely would have been noticed I hope.

[Aronis]

Change the pads, sure, you have to remove the thing to do that, (cam shafts at lease) and you'll get a good look at the lower surface. 1.4k is a pain in the ass but better than having it fail later. That part is on every V8 and V6 Audi makes. They should drop that price, if for no other reason but own loyalty. If it fails your cams fail and your valves are screwed.


The aftermarket part is only $200, but no one here was willing to chance it, me included. My understanding is some parts are listed as OE manufactured, and this one is not listed that way on any of the websites I went to. I find it STUPID IMPOSSIBLE that some other company tooled up to make an aftermarket part like this (low volume part in the aftermarket) to 'compete' with the OEM manufacture who is selling two for every Audi V8 built. It must be made by the same manufacturer and is probably just FINE for $200. Has same two year/24 k warrantee. LOL

Someone needs to bite the bullet and try the cheep one, I nominate Dhall since he has 5 hundred RS6's and can do the work himself. DO IT DDDDDDDDD

Mike

[DHall1]

No way Jose. Oem or nothing for me

i may never need to replace mine due to many factors including oil used and proper cool down every time I drive the cars.

[Aronis]

No way Jose. Oem or nothing for me

i may never need to replace mine due to many factors including oil used and proper cool down every time I drive the cars.

Hot Oil, High Speed, Metal on Plastic, that thing is DESIGNED to fail. You must at least change the plastic guide parts.

The kit mentioned above has all the parts needed for $150. Blauparts. guides and gaskets.

I changed the oil faithfully q5k (despite the 10 k recommendation) and I did not romp on the the car that often.

I agree with OEM, thus I spent the $1500 on the parts.

I just wish we had at least "e'skinned" the plastic parts when the car was all apart, that's a no brainer for $30 in parts (eBay has them listed for that). I would have been happy to pay the $1500 then to have the entire new part.

I am just lucky that the cam chain did not break! D'ooh.....

Mike

[lswing]

Yep, luckily no other damage was done...so no need to sell the car. Besides winter is here soon and you need a winter beater!

I can't believe my luck when mine failed. It was on a start after sitting in the garage all week. Started it up and it sounded like a damn rumbling semi truck, lights flashing on dash. Car drove flawless the week before, but I had been getting more of that "ticking" sound on startup, beware of that everyone.

[Aronis]

Winter Beater! LOL.......That is what I was hoping for when I put 12 grand in to it last winter. Car was in the shop from October to June. I figured I'd get a winter out of it but looks like I'll be putting in another $3000. and might have it back on the road by December. LOL.....

Once it is running I can sell it. If I do the winter beater thing and another fault comes up, I'll have a pile of junk that I can't sell and have to pay to have it towed away!

Those who have their own shop and can DIY on this car can drive it for a longer time, those of us dependent on a mechanic to keep it running are just SUCKERS.

I had the plan of never keeping a car more than 3 or 4 years after milking old cars through college and med school, but I did not keep to that plan with the RS6 and now I am paying the price.

Not keeping the A8 was probably the right decision as the new 4.0 L Turbo also has a plastic part for it's cam adjusters LOL. Different system as far as I can tell, but another car you don't want to keep past 100k. I would have had a 100,000 mile 8 total year if I bought it, but was still a risk.

I have a neighbor who has a 2010 or 11 A8L with NA V8, his car was at my mechanics shop for a few items. I had not been educated on the CCT issue until after that car was picked up. They have 120,000 miles on it. I would LOVE to see the condition of those adjusters! LOL I watched the owner drive off and she had no idea that their beloved maroon A8L is going to DIE a sudden death when one of those plastic parts go! BANG!

It's funny, look under your hood. Audi has the warning about using the correct oil or the engine can suddenly fail and cause an accident. Just what the hell happens when a timing chain brakes AUDI? What Flowers come out the exhaust!?!?!? Should be a warning label for the friggen cam adjusters. Plastic pieces of shit.

"Warning: if this car exceeds 100,000 miles, sudden engine failure is imminent and injury or death can occur, so change your CCTs"

"Achtung: Wenn dieses Auto beträgt über 100.000 Meilen, plötzlichen Motorschaden droht und Verletzungen oder zum Tod kommen kann."

I have my timing chains and the seal kit from Blauparts, and am picking up the tensioners from the dealer tomorrow. I'll drop off the parts on Monday, and wait.......a month or so to get it back on the road. Perhaps I can drive it back from the mechanic in a snow storm with the summer tires on it. That will be fun.

Mike

[DHall1]

I would never pay a 12000 dollar service ticket.

Car would have been parted at that point.

I have taken on Pieserg's car at 150k but he just serviced literally everything last year. I passed on the 13 A8 4.0tt for now...we shall see how that pans out

[Aronis]

New Parts....

[lswing]

New Parts....

You can't sell it now! These parts are worth half the value You should have put used crappy old parts on like a used car dealer would...

[Aronis]

Iswing,

You are mean!

Those 'aftermarket' ones MUST be made by the same shop that makes the OEM. I can't believe someone would tool up for a limited part like that!

(maybe those are OEM, maybe they are knock offs)

Mike

[AndyRS6]

Did you buy OEM or aftermarket?


Andriy

[AndyRS6]

I thought that real oem would have black or dark brown pads and black electrical selinoid.

Andriy

[Aronis]

AndyRS6,

They are OEM.

Did not want to chance the knock off's since no one else here had tried them, call me chicken.

As far as I could tell from various sellers websites, the OEM and aftermarket look the same.



Knockoff



Audi OEM



From ECS site, not the markings on the part
Mike

[nubcake]

I thought that real oem would have black or dark brown pads and black electrical selinoid.

Andriy

They get darker over time from exposure to heat and oil.

[Aronis]

They get darker over time from exposure to heat and oil.

The same heat and oil that kills them!

Mike

[Aronis]

Update:

Left Bank (driver's side) which was not showing any misfires had the timing chain off by one link! 14 instead of 15! It must have moved with the worn down CCT.

Right Bank which had all the misfires was correct at 16 links (Correct spacing is 15 on left bank, 16 on right bank, don't ask me why!)

Passenger Side (right Bank)


Driver's Side (left bank)


I am curious if I'll notice any improve performance with the timing correct!

Mike