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Thread: misfire issue even with new plugs and all new coils.

  1. #1
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    misfire issue even with new plugs and all new coils.

    If you followed my build thread, you know I've done EVERYTHING in terms of maintenance. I also did a manual swap and Daz was in the middle of my tune when we lost him. My car is running very strong but I'm only about half way to its full potential. I'm working with another friend of Daz's as we've met and talked a bit when Daz and I met last to exchange some parts.

    I've got plenty of fuel once I installed the inline 044, I've installed larger meth/water nozzles and my timing pull is acceptable considering it's 92 here. The larger nozzles definitely helped. All my plugs are new and all the coils are upgrade to the r8 red style. I always notice this during logging, otherwise it's just in the background and no CEL's or weird running. I usually never run all the way to redline during normal driving.

    I let the car warm the oil before a log, no misfires during idle or during normal warm-up driving. I did a log, 3rd gear, and got a blinking cel. Came back, checked log and vagcom and I see it's reporting misfires on 5 and 8. I check and clean all the connections and make sure the coils are fully seated. I pulled the R8 coils off of those cylinders and install the old coils and brand new plugs. run vcds on misfire count and see now that cylinders 7 and 8 are misfiring but no blinking cel. Come back, swap 7 and 8 coils to other side of engine to 3 and 4. run again with vcds logging misfires and get no misfires all the way to redline. still watching it, driving very easy on the way back and i see misfire counts of 1 at random on 1, 4, and 8.

    I'm not sure what the hell is going on now. I don't know what to look at next.

  2. #2
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    MAF? Or MAF seals?
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    Quote Originally Posted by 4.2Crew View Post
    MAF? Or MAF seals?
    I installled new apikol seals and basically glued the mafs in as well. Not positive but pretty sure I don't have a leak at least at the maf seals. I guess I could have bad maf or two but I bought a spare early on and it didn't change anything. So I have three of them now-a spare in the wings.

    I purchased new connectors but only replaced one so far. I guess the other should be done now as well -even though I'm getting the majority of the misfires on the bank with the new connector.

    My my logs look good with maf readings although one side reads consistently about 40-60 higher than the other. I read this is normal? On the top of the logs, when I let up on the accelerator, I get a weird spike for about two readings where it jumps to an irrelevant value like 1400-1600 g/s for a couple of counts.

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    Next on the list I suppose is to try and closer maf readings side to side. New connector pass side, getting rid of k&n filters return to stock, and a new Bosch maf sensor

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    Quote Originally Posted by Fastguy View Post
    weird spike for about two readings where it jumps to an irrelevant value like 1400-1600 g/s for a couple of counts.
    That's normal. If you're logging with me7logger, it means your .ecu definition file is incorrect - "maf flow" vars are defined as unsigned when they should be signed - those "spikes" are actually reverse flow through MAFs. But it doesn't matter anyways.
    You can swap MAF units from side to side and look at the difference. If it remains ~the same, MAFs themselves are most likely fine.

    Either way, those misfires most likely come from either too rich of a mixture or wrong "coil dwell" times. I bet on the "overly rich", usually noticeable at ~3500ish RPM.

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    I'm a daz tuned automatic with r8 coils and no issues. Does your coil adapters center the coils perfectly straight?

    The only other thing i would think could be the issue is the coil dwell times nubcake mentioned, the s4 guys need this done, and i really don't know if daz messed with mine at all, i told him i had them before he tuned it.

    You're ahead of the curve here, i need to catch up with the 6 speed stuff... my flywheel gets delivered today
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    I did adjust dwell times when I did the same conversion on my 2.7. I have all the maps and definition files to do it but this 4.2 I have nothing. I don't have a map to see what does what. So much more info on the 2.7. My only option, if I wanted to mess with it myself, would be to spend some money and get winols and the support that would go with the community. There's also the learning curve and lack of info I'd have to contend with.

    If I recall, dwell didn't mess with misfires, it would increase or decrease the life of the coil. Correct me if I'm wrong as that's just something I was once told. As far as the coils pushing all the way down, that's a really good suggestion but I don't think it's it because I swapped in a couple oe old coils and have the exact same issue.

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    The files are on the nefmoto forum as well from what i've seen, I just had daz load it because i'm a noob
    BB GT28's w/ Tial Wastegates, Full 3" Open Exhaust, Wagners, Billet Triple Disk Converter, Built Trans, Exedy Friction Disks, ECU/TCU Tuned, 450/AEM400/1000cc/AFPR, E85, R8 Coils, Nubcake Tuned. Fastest RS6 in the USA :)

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    Quote Originally Posted by Fastguy View Post
    If I recall, dwell didn't mess with misfires, it would increase or decrease the life of the coil.
    That is correct if you swap "normal" coils to R8/TFSI. But since you mentioned going back to originals, - you can get misfires with the binary adjusted for R8s.

    I have tuned some 6MT RS6s - and a couple of of them had similar misfire issue. I have a hunch that unmodified misfire detection goes haywire in certain RPM ranges when going from AT to MT. But so far I did not have to dig deeply into these functions, since readjusting AFRs always worked for me.

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    Is this a new thing, or recent occurrence? Flowing too much water? What are the plugs gapped to? At least the 2.7T is sensitive to spark blowout. I ended up at 0.022 before solving a similar issue. Excessive fuel is a good possibility as well (as noted by nubcake).
    There are complete 4D1907558B and 558F tunerpro definition files on nefmoto.com (although the 558B has an error or two, KFLDHBN being one). Do you know what version Daz started with (I'm guessing 558B)? I'm working on a 558 (no suffix) def file but am only finding maps as I need them. WinOLS has a free trial version to aid with cross-referencing, no need to buy. (Nyet's checksum corrector and setzi's checksum checker work with at least the 558.)

    Post your logs on nefmoto? Some smart cookies on there.
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    I'm having massive misfire issues as well under boost. Also on R8 coils. Are you guys using different plugs running the R8 coils?

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    I'm on brand new OEM NGK PFRQ7 plugs
    BB GT28's w/ Tial Wastegates, Full 3" Open Exhaust, Wagners, Billet Triple Disk Converter, Built Trans, Exedy Friction Disks, ECU/TCU Tuned, 450/AEM400/1000cc/AFPR, E85, R8 Coils, Nubcake Tuned. Fastest RS6 in the USA :)

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    how critical is gap on a highly tuned engine like this? I'm assuming damn important but just how much so I do not know. I believe Daz told me .028 and these ngk bkr7e looked to be gapped .035 out of the box.

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    Quote Originally Posted by B727 View Post
    Is this a new thing, or recent occurrence? Flowing too much water? What are the plugs gapped to? At least the 2.7T is sensitive to spark blowout. I ended up at 0.022 before solving a similar issue. Excessive fuel is a good possibility as well (as noted by nubcake).
    There are complete 4D1907558B and 558F tunerpro definition files on nefmoto.com (although the 558B has an error or two, KFLDHBN being one). Do you know what version Daz started with (I'm guessing 558B)? I'm working on a 558 (no suffix) def file but am only finding maps as I need them. WinOLS has a free trial version to aid with cross-referencing, no need to buy. (Nyet's checksum corrector and setzi's checksum checker work with at least the 558.)

    Post your logs on nefmoto? Some smart cookies on there.
    Dont know how I overlooked your post. Great info here. Thanks. I think mine is no suffix. I'd have to look again. Tuner pro definition files meaning the .xdf? I came across that post on Nef about using the trial of winols to port over an xdf file. I'll have to give that a try. I'm not knowledgable of brave enough to make any major changes but it is nice to be able to use the compare function and try an learn from the changes or make minor modifications like coding out rear o2, sai, etc.

  15. #15
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    in my experience (which isn't that broad), spark plug gap is very important in high boost situations (or more accurately, high combustion chamber pressures). The last time I was tuning a motor (many years ago), it was my Skyline GT-R and I was being frustrated by massive misfiring when I'd push the boost past a certain point. I eventually solved the problem by using NGK surface-gap spark plugs, which also came with the very significant benefit of being foul-proof as well as having no electrode to break off if an intake charge detonated. I did have to run an ignition amplifier (no idea if those actually work or are just clever ways of separating fools from their money - the thing looked like the "radar jammers" sold in the '80s, which were useless circuit boards stuck inside plastic boxes), as well as upgraded coil packs.

    Here's a decent article on surface-gap plugs as used in F1 and MotoGP: http://www.formula1-dictionary.net/spark-plug.html

    I have no idea if they'll work with the RS6's ignition system. Hell, I had no idea if they'd work in the Skyline. It was a gamble as the plugs weren't cheap; IIRC they were about $35 a piece. But it paid off huge in that case - I no longer had to consider spark plug heat rating, worry about the gap, never fouled my plugs again (which happened when the plugs were cold and I ran too rich), and never blew out the spark, even when I went to even higher boost levels. Plus, they lasted forever.

    I just found that NGK still makes them, albeit only in heat range 11. I've been told that heat range is largely irrelevant with surface-gap plugs as the outer electrode basically becomes part of the cylinder head - no idea how factual that is. You can find them here: https://www.sparkplugs.com/product.aspx?zpid=10082
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    Very interesting. If the issue continues I will definite get a set of these. Nubcake helped me today figure out an issue that should have been a no-brainier for me since I set it up. I was injecting way too much w/m. I'll log again tomorrow to see if my other issues still remain but it feels MUCH better. I'm guessing this may have also contributed to the misfire but only a log will tell. Fingers crossed. Thanks again publicly to Nubcake.

    Quote Originally Posted by kismetcapitan View Post
    in my experience (which isn't that broad), spark plug gap is very important in high boost situations (or more accurately, high combustion chamber pressures). The last time I was tuning a motor (many years ago), it was my Skyline GT-R and I was being frustrated by massive misfiring when I'd push the boost past a certain point. I eventually solved the problem by using NGK surface-gap spark plugs, which also came with the very significant benefit of being foul-proof as well as having no electrode to break off if an intake charge detonated. I did have to run an ignition amplifier (no idea if those actually work or are just clever ways of separating fools from their money - the thing looked like the "radar jammers" sold in the '80s, which were useless circuit boards stuck inside plastic boxes), as well as upgraded coil packs.

    Here's a decent article on surface-gap plugs as used in F1 and MotoGP: http://www.formula1-dictionary.net/spark-plug.html

    I have no idea if they'll work with the RS6's ignition system. Hell, I had no idea if they'd work in the Skyline. It was a gamble as the plugs weren't cheap; IIRC they were about $35 a piece. But it paid off huge in that case - I no longer had to consider spark plug heat rating, worry about the gap, never fouled my plugs again (which happened when the plugs were cold and I ran too rich), and never blew out the spark, even when I went to even higher boost levels. Plus, they lasted forever.

    I just found that NGK still makes them, albeit only in heat range 11. I've been told that heat range is largely irrelevant with surface-gap plugs as the outer electrode basically becomes part of the cylinder head - no idea how factual that is. You can find them here: https://www.sparkplugs.com/product.aspx?zpid=10082

  17. #17
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    Man maybe I really need a W/M setup. It's 110* +/- here all summer. My car barely wants to drive down the road in this heat

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