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Thread: New transmission and TC on it's way

  1. #1
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    New transmission and TC on it's way

    Paying $5500 over a year ago for my Zurich warranty was painful, but it is now coming through for me big time. I've already gotten at least 4k in service (cam seals, valve covers, CV boots, etc) and now they have agreed to replace my TC and transmission. It's been ordered and en route. They drove it, tested the tranny oil, and after some back and forth with the shop they decided to do the full replacement. Pretty happy about this. TC and tranny going out at 60k is ridiculous but I knew that this was quite probable going into this car. So with the engine/tranny out I'm going to do handle a bit of preventive maintenance. I've read most of the posts on this so i'm hoping you all can help me with a plan to hit all the most important maintenance issues while they have easy access to them.

    Car has 62K on it, so I'm going to do the 70k service early.

    -Timing belt kit. How about the ECS tuning kit? Should I get the Blue Gates timing belt? I hear the water pump needs to be of the highest quality. ECS has a full kit w/ fluids for $549. But it only has a "Graft" water pump, never heard of it. Decent? I recently did my cam seals and valve covers (that comes w/ that kit0 so should I just get timing belt and water pump? Or are there alot of small pieces that come with it that need to be there?

    -EGT's. The sneaky fix I did recently is still holding but I want to put new ones in there to be on the safe side. ECS has both of them (Genuine Audi) for $514.

    -02 sensors. I'm not getting codes from these so I think I just want to do the hard to get to front ones. The shop said the rears are accessible. Is that true or do you think I should do all four (2 front and 2 rear) at this time? ECS has the front 02's for $162 each.

    -Bufkin pipe. i'm not having any issues but is this a must do when the engine is out? Since I'm low miles, can I pass on this? I saw one on Ebay for about $30.

    -Regulator for alternator. I'm not having any charging issues but I was thinking of replacing the regulator on the alternator. I saw one on Amazon for about $35.

    -N75 valves. Not having any issues here but I hear it's a good idea to replace both of these. ECS has them for $113 each.

    -While the engine is out I will have them retighten the steering rack bolts. I still get a little noise from the front end, even after I changed the DRC to yellow Koni's and changed sway bar bushings. They said control arms are fine.

    -I'll make sure they clean the IC and hoses. Recently they cleaned some oil that was pooling in there. Will make sure the IC's are tight. Should I replace IC hoses? Recent tests showed that the IC was oily but not leaking.

    -I'm considering getting an upgraded TC. Through Tozo, ACE, Level 10? The shop (Eurotech in Culver City) where I'm getting this done says that the new tranny and TC are improved (i've got an early VIN car) but I feel like I should upgrade the TC. Isn't only around $500? Can I just order one and have it shipped or do they need to get mine and rebuild it?

    If anybody has any suggestions on other maintenance items I should do, please chime in w/feedback.

    Once all this is done the car should be well sorted and good for some time. They will begin work this Monday so I'm trying to get all parts in ASAP.

    Thanks!

  2. #2
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    Ecs timing kit sucks. Dont buy it

    Europa has a good kit

    Leave turbos alone

    Leave 02 alone

    Yes bufkin

    No egt

    Yes regulator

    No tc

  3. #3
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    Blau parts has a good kit and they were cheap recently (like had a mega sale but now I think it is over). I will vouch that I got my bad parts from ECS on their kit once.

    I got a bad voltage regulator once, new out of box. So that one is somewhat of a risk, as long as the shop is guaranteeing the parts. Which many only do if you let them buy the parts and mark you up a bit.
    RS6 #1 904959, Daytona, Silver, tons of "stuff," went through puddle, dead engine, end of #1 for me, rebuilt by local enthusiast and thriving.
    RS6 #2 904568, Avus, Ebony, no stuff, stock minus RNS-E.

  4. #4
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    Oh and the 10 dollar temperature sensor (for coolant) that will be so easily accessible with the car taken apart, and if you drop the clip with the car taken apart that much it will be easy to find/get too.
    RS6 #1 904959, Daytona, Silver, tons of "stuff," went through puddle, dead engine, end of #1 for me, rebuilt by local enthusiast and thriving.
    RS6 #2 904568, Avus, Ebony, no stuff, stock minus RNS-E.

  5. #5
    Registered User lswing's Avatar
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    Blauparts for timing kit, link and list to what you should do in the Maintenance section of my website, in sig.

    Bufkin pipe, yes, by a mile...

    TC, no, new one will be just as good.

    Turbos no. Rebuilt mine at 95k and they were basically fine.
    Ace/Edge TC - Tozo Trans - MTM TCU - REVO/ME7 tune - Wagner IC's w/ Venair Hoses - Aux Radiator delete - Hotchkis Sways - Hawk HPS Pads - Koni Sport Struts - Scroll KO4 Turbos - Devil's Own WM - 421whp/452wtq on Mustang Dyno - http://www.audirssix.com

  6. #6
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    Thanks for the feedback. The Blauparts timing kit is $503. Kit looks pretty good. Is the "Graf" water pump any good in the kit? The Europa timing kit is a little more expensive, it has a "HEPU German" water pump. Shouldn't I be looking for the Gates Blue heavy duty timing belt? Two people are saying no to the upgraded TC, why is that? I thought the TC was the weak link in the chain and upgrading it would help that. I hear the new TC's being manufactured are improved but I'm worried about my tune breaking the new one.

  7. #7
    Registered User lswing's Avatar
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    Blau kit can be ordered with gates blue and metal impeller water pump, just browse their site.

    The early TCs were the only bad ones. Since Audi fixed it after approx VIN 905500, they have been fine. Only thing ACE or a custom builder will do different is adjust custom stall speed. I was happy with how stock stall speed works.

    Edit; your tune will break the trans regardless if you drive hard enough. TC was only ever a worry due to original early defect from the factory.
    Ace/Edge TC - Tozo Trans - MTM TCU - REVO/ME7 tune - Wagner IC's w/ Venair Hoses - Aux Radiator delete - Hotchkis Sways - Hawk HPS Pads - Koni Sport Struts - Scroll KO4 Turbos - Devil's Own WM - 421whp/452wtq on Mustang Dyno - http://www.audirssix.com

  8. #8
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    Feedback was helpful, thanks.

    Ordered Blauparts timing belt kit w/ a few extras ($580). They recommended to not do the racing Gates belt as they said it can be a bit loud and squeal. Kit came w/ a standard Gates belt.

    Ordered 2 Diverter valves, 1 waste gate control N75 valve, and both EGT sensors (kit) from ECS ($175, $113, and $515).

    Ordered a coolant temperature sensor and retaining clip from Europarts ($15)

    Ordered a Bufkin pipe off of Ebay ($30)

    The shop has as good deal on the front 02 sensors (only doing fronts not the rears) so they will have those.

    Gonna leave the new TC and turbos alone (low mile-62K)

    I have a question, I went to buy the voltage regulator with the part # the forum has mentioned as a direct replacement (0031546506)
    When I went to purchase it at ECS they said the part # was for a Mercedes. They searched for the RS6 voltage regulator part # and found that the one that came up is $160. The part # the forum mentioned is around $40. Can anyone clarify which part # is correct for the voltage regulator?

    They are going to begin pulling the engine this Friday, I'm excited to get a major refresh for this car.

  9. #9
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    You need the factory gasket set for the oil cooler housing. O rings and gaskets.

    Dealer only

  10. #10
    Registered User MaxRS6's Avatar
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    Rear main seal should be considered- I may have missed it being mentioned above.
    210K miles rolled

  11. #11
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    Wonder if they even ever heard the gates blue on a car, because it's on mine and it's fine.
    BB GT28's w/ Tial Wastegates, Full 3" Open Exhaust, Wagners, Billet Triple Disk Converter, Built Trans, Exedy Friction Disks, ECU/TCU Tuned, 450/AEM400/1000cc/AFPR, E85, R8 Coils, Nubcake Tuned. Fastest RS6 in the USA :)

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by s8prtotype View Post
    Wonder if they even ever heard the gates blue on a car, because it's on mine and it's fine.
    My gates belt on number 1 did exactly that. It scared the indy they spent two days tracking the issue.
    RS6 #1 904959, Daytona, Silver, tons of "stuff," went through puddle, dead engine, end of #1 for me, rebuilt by local enthusiast and thriving.
    RS6 #2 904568, Avus, Ebony, no stuff, stock minus RNS-E.

  13. #13
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    Voltage regulator $36 from RMEuropean.com - Bosch # 0031546506

    http://www.rmeuropean.com/Make/PartNumberSearch.aspx?pnsearch=0031546506

    Works in mine



  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dmb408 View Post
    My gates belt on number 1 did exactly that. It scared the indy they spent two days tracking the issue.
    Well #becauseracecar lol
    BB GT28's w/ Tial Wastegates, Full 3" Open Exhaust, Wagners, Billet Triple Disk Converter, Built Trans, Exedy Friction Disks, ECU/TCU Tuned, 450/AEM400/1000cc/AFPR, E85, R8 Coils, Nubcake Tuned. Fastest RS6 in the USA :)

  15. #15
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    I went to the dealer and tracked down an O-ring/gasket kit for the oil cooler. I will remember to ask the shop to check out the rear main seal. If the engine and tranny are split and out of the car is the rear main seal a tough job? If it doesn't take too long I might have them do that. I got the regular Gates belt just to be on the safe side. This car has enough annoying creaks and sounds already, I didn't want to potentially add another one. EINHORN-I called ECS and they said that part # is only for a Mercedes alternator. Is it possible that Audi and Mercedes share the same voltage regulator? I hope so because the other one was quite a bit more. I'll call RMEuropean on Monday and see if it's a match for the RS.

  16. #16
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    Like I said it matched mine

    See this prior RS6.com thread

    http://www.rs6.com/archive/index.php/t-26526.html

  17. #17
    Registered User Aronis's Avatar
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    Rear main seal flange intersects with the upper half of the oil pan. In order to get that point properly sealed you have to remove the upper oil pan. The place flange with its horse shoe shaped gasket. The oil pan is sealed with liquid sealant from a tube. This allows proper amount of sealant between the upper oil pan and the bottom edge of the rear main seal flange.
    '18 BMW M5, '19 Porsche Boxster GTS
    (prior '94 325is, '97 M3, '00 A6 4.2,'03 RS6,'08 A4 Cab,'13 A8L,'15 Q7,'16 BMW M2,

  18. #18
    Registered User Aronis's Avatar
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    '18 BMW M5, '19 Porsche Boxster GTS
    (prior '94 325is, '97 M3, '00 A6 4.2,'03 RS6,'08 A4 Cab,'13 A8L,'15 Q7,'16 BMW M2,

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