New Owner in PA

[bmlee007]

Do I just sign up on Audi's website? If not, can you shoot me a link. Very interested. Would love to be able to attend something like that. Thanks for the info.

Here is a link to the Sebring race (which is already over.) Maybe if you enter your info they'll contact you for the next event. http://audisportexperience.com/ Or you could send them an email... info@audisportexperience.com In any event, I'll message you when I get the next notice.

The car looks great, it will look even better in person. Enjoy!

[mgmarsh39]

Here is a link to the Sebring race (which is already over.) Maybe if you enter your info they'll contact you for the next event. http://audisportexperience.com/ Or you could send them an email... info@audisportexperience.com In any event, I'll message you when I get the next notice.

The car looks great, it will look even better in person. Enjoy!

Thanks bmlee007. I signed up, so we'll see what happens .

Great news all, the carrier called me and I get delivery tomorrow night!

[Turbowned]

Very nice! I don't always like this mod but I bet yours would look good with blacked out window and grille trim, sort of like on this S4:

[mgmarsh39]

Not a bad thought Turbowned. I do like the aluminum trim though. Could be a thought down the road for sure .

OK, SO SHE IS HERE!! I was too excited for a drive and haven't taken many pictures (besides you all know what these look like, right??). I'll take a bunch more when it warms up and I can wash her. This was my first time ever driving the car, or an RS6 for that matter. What can I say, it's no wonder everyone here has such a passion for the car. What an awesome beast!

I do have some questions, see below the pics.








Basically spent my first few hours of ownership taking apart the trunk. Apparently the PO installed an aftermarket backup camera. So that it never got stolen, the nuts were behind the rear fog light assembly... Ugh what a PITA to just put on my plate.

Also, my trunk release by the drivers door was missing (the button). Looks like the top of the button was torn off. Easy, or not so easy fix?

[DHall1]

I need a red one.

[Carolinacat]

DHall: You could of aquired that red one local to you for cheap. Some dealer scooped it up and now is asking 10k more than I had arranged to purchase it for. It's on ebay.

Marsh. Looking good.

[DHall1]

I know and it burns my butt. I saw that car on craigslist and thought it was too good to be true

[mgmarsh39]

Same reason I jumped on mine, even though it was extremely far away!

FYI, Splendid Transportation did the 2500 miles in 4 days! If you ever need a car moved.

[hoam skooled]

Man that is sweet !! ..lol.. have to laugh at the missing trunk release button..probably did it on purpose..horrible spot..i am always hitting it when i'm getting out or in ...go to drive away and i see the trunk open and have to stop n get out n shut it..lol ..i dont even know why its there .. all you have to do is use the handle on the trunk..its like like a power trunk like my phaeton was

[lswing]

Looks great! Always amazed how people scratch up the buttons, mine are almost perfect at 100k. Anyhow, can be fixed.

How do you ever touch that tank button? Ha, I hardly ever see mine...maybe being 6' tall my hands are higher up.

If your DRC starts acting up look into the Koni Yellows for a great upgrade at low price.

Again, just use Google to search this site and you'll find most any answer.

[mgmarsh39]

Yeah, the buttons being worn always amazes me. The drivers seat has "play" in it also. Going to look at that this weekend.

Couple questions:
1. quoted 1400 to do the 75k service by a local indy shop recommended by a couple Porsche owner friends. Seem fair? He quoted 8-9hrs labor, which sounds about right. This price includes parts.
2. Light acceleration in 1st has a breif dead spot then "surge". After that, I notice nothing out of the normal. If I'm harder on acceleration, no "Dead spot" then surge, just smooth power. Any thoughts? My guess is just me getting used to an automatic again.

More pics to come, promise! Just need to find a warm sunny day (not very common in Erie, PA LOL).

[lswing]

75k meaning timing belt? I always thought it was around $2k with OEM parts and labor. TB every 35k they say, so yours may be overdue. My website has the full list of parts, Maintenance tab.

Play in seat can be caused by the worn plastic gears, I wedged some tinfoil into mine, helps. Also just keep the seat lower helps for me at least.

Is your car tuned? Could just be boost coming on too quick, poor tune. Maybe air or boost leak somewhere. Highly recommend Ross-tech.com, log data, boost, timing, EGT, will tell you what's going on.

[mgmarsh39]

75k meaning timing belt? I always thought it was around $2k with OEM parts and labor. TB every 35k they say, so yours may be overdue. My website has the full list of parts, Maintenance tab.

Play in seat can be caused by the worn plastic gears, I wedged some tinfoil into mine, helps. Also just keep the seat lower helps for me at least.

Is your car tuned? Could just be boost coming on too quick, poor tune. Maybe air or boost leak somewhere. Highly recommend Ross-tech.com, log data, boost, timing, EGT, will tell you what's going on.

Yep, doing the 75k mile TB service. Since I'm at 75,450 figured I should regardless of when it was last done.

I'll have to try the foil trick, seems to be the issue for sure. Bolts are all tight.

No tune to my knowledge. Seems to only do it when cold. I think it's getting used to the weather here in the NE... Didn't seem to have the issue on my drive home. Will keep everyone updated. Maybe just a cold engine quirk.

[bmlee007]

$1400 for a TB is a really good price. If that includes the entire 75K service (oil, filter, fluids etc) then I'm coming to Erie in 8k miles to have mine done too!

[lswing]

This seems to be a kit that folks have used IIRC, http://www.blauparts.com/proddetail....od=GH21132-1-C

So $575 parts and fluid, and about $8-900 labor, seems about right. Crap, I paid around $150-200 just for the small rollers last year, WTH?

Maybe someone can refresh me on why I've heard numbers like $2-2,500 for the TB service. More labor hours, like 15? Additional parts like VC gaskets, and labor?

[mgmarsh39]

Let's just say, this area is not a hot bed for performance cars... I think this Indy shop knows this and prices his shop hrs accordingly. Lot's of recommendations from friends, so will let you know how it goes. I'm scheduled on the 21st. Said he needs to keep her over the weekend, which I can understand for sure.

[Bigglezworth]

I've said this many times before guys, the timing belt work ISN'T difficult. It takes systematic steps that any backyard mechanic can perform if they follow instructions, or have done prior on another similar engine. You need the CORRECT tools - can't cheap out here. You need the correct parts. You need to famililarize yourself with what needs to be dismantled to gain access to the repair area. You need to familiarize yourself with the steps to execute. After that is all said and done a TB can (yes CAN) be swapped along with all rollers & tensioners in a nominal 4 hours max - drive in to drive out.

Jacking and removing tires, front fender screws, and bumper bolts for both sides is a solid 30-40 mins. Removing bumper skin another 10-15 mins max. Draining radiator and putting front clip in service position 15 mins max. Removing Y-pipe, snub bushing, dust covers - 30 mins unrushed. Rotating crank/cams to install cam bar and crank lock pin 15 mins. Swapping the actual belt, tensioners, & rollers is a nominal 45 min including all torquing and tension settings and rotatng the engine a couple of time by hand to double check alignment of everything. Reverse assembly for all other items takes similar timeframes as that of removal.

The above of course doesn't include for stubborn bolts, nor does it include for fine degreeing of cams to account for minute differences between new and old belt. If you are at that level of mechanics, you can further introduce the necessary steps to remove/loosen the cam sprockets and then retorque those after you've tensioned up the belt (guanatees cam lock alignment to crank this way in the event the previous repair was slightly out of alignment). This is a solid 30 mins added time. Add another 10 mins to swap T-stat; and another 15 mins for water pump (both assuming you don't lose any bolts that are seized - then the timeframes can go up expodentially...)

Set a shop rate at $100/hr, introduce parts that are a nominal $400.00-$600.00 depending on "the kit" or the price of separate purchase deals, and you are smack dab around the $1K mark. Quotes to perform this work that are 50% higher, or those even 100% higher than this mark, are places that are overpriced IMO. Left to each of you to determine on what the additional amounts above the $1K threshold mean to you for value.

Happy trails....

[HPO-DK]

Spot on,my local shop just did my TB and the offer was incl 3,5 hours Labour total incl waterpump was 1250$ and this in Denmark that normaly is exspencive

I've said this many times before guys, the timing belt work ISN'T difficult. It takes systematic steps that any backyard mechanic can perform if they follow instructions, or have done prior on another similar engine. You need the CORRECT tools - can't cheap out here. You need the correct parts. You need to famililarize yourself with what needs to be dismantled to gain access to the repair area. You need to familiarize yourself with the steps to execute. After that is all said and done a TB can (yes CAN) be swapped along with all rollers & tensioners in a nominal 4 hours max - drive in to drive out.

Jacking and removing tires, front fender screws, and bumper bolts for both sides is a solid 30-40 mins. Removing bumper skin another 10-15 mins max. Draining radiator and putting front clip in service position 15 mins max. Removing Y-pipe, snub bushing, dust covers - 30 mins unrushed. Rotating crank/cams to install cam bar and crank lock pin 15 mins. Swapping the actual belt, tensioners, & rollers is a nominal 45 min including all torquing and tension settings and rotatng the engine a couple of time by hand to double check alignment of everything. Reverse assembly for all other items takes similar timeframes as that of removal.

The above of course doesn't include for stubborn bolts, nor does it include for fine degreeing of cams to account for minute differences between new and old belt. If you are at that level of mechanics, you can further introduce the necessary steps to remove/loosen the cam sprockets and then retorque those after you've tensioned up the belt (guanatees cam lock alignment to crank this way in the event the previous repair was slightly out of alignment). This is a solid 30 mins added time. Add another 10 mins to swap T-stat; and another 15 mins for water pump (both assuming you don't lose any bolts that are seized - then the timeframes can go up expodentially...)

Set a shop rate at $100/hr, introduce parts that are a nominal $400.00-$600.00 depending on "the kit" or the price of separate purchase deals, and you are smack dab around the $1K mark. Quotes to perform this work that are 50% higher, or those even 100% higher than this mark, are places that are overpriced IMO. Left to each of you to determine on what the additional amounts above the $1K threshold mean to you for value.

Happy trails....