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Thread: 2003 RS6 - crank, no start

  1. #1
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    2003 RS6 - crank, no start

    Looking for suggestions where to start with troubleshooting:
    - VAGcom scan for codes, write down, erase
    - crank. See what codes come back
    - crank position sensor bad IIRC creates 'crank no start'? checking crank sensor with VAGcom, engine module, measuring block where RPM show. Crank. If values (100 rpm or so) show the crank sensor good?
    - likely unrelated: had very cold temp start problems. then: fired/started after a few tries, but did not want to take gas; idle slowly increased and stabilized, then driving fine; restarting fine when warm
    - check fuses (which circuit/fuse can create 'crank, no start' condition?
    - remove rear seat bench and listen for fuel pumps to kick in. I would assume car would at least fire a bit if only one of the 2 pumps (in tank and in line) died, or?
    - remove spark plug and check for spark
    - not sure how to test for fuel, except lots of cranking and taking plug out and check if wet, and gas smell from exhaust? Suggestions

    Other notorious failure source that could lead to crank/no start?

  2. #2
    Registered User Corbett's Avatar
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    The last two audis I've heard of with crack no start were both out of fuel lol. Add 5 gallons.

    pump in the tank feeds the pump that's in line. Check the filter as well.

    fuel line comes off at the rail only take a few minutes stick it in a bottle and crank see if any fuel comes out.
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  3. #3
    Registered User lswing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by vtraudt View Post
    Looking for suggestions where to start with troubleshooting:
    - VAGcom scan for codes, write down, erase
    - crank. See what codes come back
    - crank position sensor bad IIRC creates 'crank no start'? checking crank sensor with VAGcom, engine module, measuring block where RPM show. Crank. If values (100 rpm or so) show the crank sensor good?
    - likely unrelated: had very cold temp start problems. then: fired/started after a few tries, but did not want to take gas; idle slowly increased and stabilized, then driving fine; restarting fine when warm
    - check fuses (which circuit/fuse can create 'crank, no start' condition?
    - remove rear seat bench and listen for fuel pumps to kick in. I would assume car would at least fire a bit if only one of the 2 pumps (in tank and in line) died, or?
    - remove spark plug and check for spark
    - not sure how to test for fuel, except lots of cranking and taking plug out and check if wet, and gas smell from exhaust? Suggestions

    Other notorious failure source that could lead to crank/no start?
    When did it last start?
    Ace/Edge TC - Tozo Trans - MTM TCU - REVO/ME7 tune - Wagner IC's w/ Venair Hoses - Aux Radiator delete - Hotchkis Sways - Hawk HPS Pads - Koni Sport Struts - Scroll KO4 Turbos - Devil's Own WM - 421whp/452wtq on Mustang Dyno - http://www.audirssix.com

  4. #4
    Registered User lswing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Corbett View Post
    The last two audis I've heard of with crack no start were both out of fuel lol. Add 5 gallons.

    pump in the tank feeds the pump that's in line. Check the filter as well.

    fuel line comes off at the rail only take a few minutes stick it in a bottle and crank see if any fuel comes out.
    I see they're finally fitting turbos yea? Those looked nice, extra exhaust port to manage pressure?
    Ace/Edge TC - Tozo Trans - MTM TCU - REVO/ME7 tune - Wagner IC's w/ Venair Hoses - Aux Radiator delete - Hotchkis Sways - Hawk HPS Pads - Koni Sport Struts - Scroll KO4 Turbos - Devil's Own WM - 421whp/452wtq on Mustang Dyno - http://www.audirssix.com

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by lswing View Post
    When did it last start?
    3 hours before when driven to dinner place.
    Outside temps around 30 F.
    Had started fine for the drive.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Corbett View Post
    The last two audis I've heard of with crack no start were both out of fuel lol. Add 5 gallons.

    pump in the tank feeds the pump that's in line. Check the filter as well.

    fuel line comes off at the rail only take a few minutes stick it in a bottle and crank see if any fuel comes out.
    Towed car finally arrive here (midnight; got 10" of snow yesterday, not a good day to request a tow; plus yet untold tickets for car parked in metered area).
    Inside heated garage since then.
    Will try start first, then check above list and suggestions.

  7. #7
    Registered User lswing's Avatar
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    Truly turning over?, or just the loud clicking, indicating dead battery.
    Ace/Edge TC - Tozo Trans - MTM TCU - REVO/ME7 tune - Wagner IC's w/ Venair Hoses - Aux Radiator delete - Hotchkis Sways - Hawk HPS Pads - Koni Sport Struts - Scroll KO4 Turbos - Devil's Own WM - 421whp/452wtq on Mustang Dyno - http://www.audirssix.com

  8. #8
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    Full turning over.
    Battery (charger on to ensure) at 100% capacity.

  9. #9
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    First scan: engine codes 17652 - Fuel Injector for Cylinder 8 (N86)
    P1244 - 004 - Open Circuit - Intermittent

    For all cylinders pretty much.

    Before erasing codes, and came back right after cranking?
    Ross Tech suggest: fuse for fuel injectors.

    Haven't found one. Where might be located or what circuit is it sharing?

  10. #10
    Registered User Other_Erik's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by vtraudt View Post
    First scan: engine codes 17652 - Fuel Injector for Cylinder 8 (N86)
    P1244 - 004 - Open Circuit - Intermittent

    For all cylinders pretty much.

    Before erasing codes, and came back right after cranking?
    Ross Tech suggest: fuse for fuel injectors.

    Haven't found one. Where might be located or what circuit is it sharing?
    Don't have my WD's in front of me, but I believe it's in the fuse/relay panel that's under the hood, under the cowl, in a sealed black box.

    Others can chime in and correct me, I'm sure

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  11. #11
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    Could find no information on injector fuse.
    Checked all relevant fuses, none blown.
    Wanted to check fuse position 28 (fuel pump) but empty. Maybe special location for RS6 due to dual pumps?
    Figured may just put a fuse in there to see if anything changes.
    Car starts, no codes!

    Assumption: fuse wiggled loose. Last time door closing, finally fell out?
    Would tow truck driver remove fuse (never heard such thing)?
    Didn't bother to remove the kickpanel in search of fuse.

    Moving car outside now to give it a deep cool down. See if any symptoms (earlier reported cold start issues, car not taking gas when starting until warmed up) remain when car really cold.

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