New RS6 Owner, any suggestions on preventive maintenance!

[RichardJones79]

After months of research, I finally decided to pull the trigger and purchase an RS6. My only concern is the high mileage of 105K. I found a one-owner, no mods/dealer maintained RS6 at a Mercedes Dealership in Atlanta. Before I made the purchase, I called all previous Audi Dealerships listed on the CARFAX report and verified all services performed. Finally, I had the local Audi dealership perform a certified pre-owned inspection. There only comments were that the front brakes are at 20% and a Timing Belt should be changed soon. I verified that the Timing Belt was changed at 75K so I should have at least another 5K before it needs to be changed. I've attached some photos, besides a couple of minor scratches, the exterior appears flawless. The only issue with the interior is that the drivers side door compartment keeps opening up while driving and the windows need to be re-tinted due to scratches.

So with 105K miles what should I replace in terms of preventive maintenance?

I've read that some do the Timing Belt at 35K and others at 40K, so what's recommended?

Other concerns I have is that the suspension is still DRC but it's been recalled. Also, it's a later VIN so when should I expect the transmission to go? I've read about the Pros/Cons of a Trans Fluid Flush, so what's recommended on a later VIN transmission?

[Other_Erik]

Welcome! Post up the last 6 of your VIN - the general consensus on trans/TC grenade is everything >905500 should have the newer parts in the Torque Converter, but in all cases doing a FULL, PROPER flush/filter and moving on to something like BND trans fluid will do more good than harm, assuming you don't already have major issues in the trans department.

Timing belt maintenance should be every 35k or 5 years, whichever comes first. You may be able to stretch (no pun intended) to 40k if you do way more highway cruising than stop-and-go. Also good to check needle bearings, replace idler pulleys and check water pump (replace water pump every other TB service) - get ready for some wallet violation.

at/near 100k, I'd have the turbos checked for play in the shaft/bearing, replace the alternator voltage regulator, check the control arms (mainly uppers), and unless you're just in love with the way it rides, look at Koni or KW struts to replace the DRC junk. Hotchkis sway bars and RNS-E have been some nice creature-comfort additions to my beast.

As for the little stuff (tint, door compartment) - don't sweat it unless you're obsessive about having your car looking like the day it rolled into its first dealership. Things are going to have a little wear and tear after 13 years and 100k miles.

There's also another recall that should have been performed - the gas tank rollover valve. Check with your closest Audi stealership on that, and if it hasn't been performed, be ready to quite probably wait awhile for it to be done. Bill in Texas (LaserSVT) ended up waiting 3 weeks since his tank needed replaced due to stealership incompetence, and they managed to mangle other parts while they were dinking around.

Welcome aboard the crazy train!

O_E

//Edit - also forgot, if you're going to have her in for major service of any kind, perfect time to check the rear main seal and valve cover gaskets for leaks, R/R is quite expensive if needed. Also, timing guides are known weak points (why you would slide metal chain on phenolic plastic guides, even oiled, is beyond me... thanks, Cosworth!) -end Edit\\

[lswing]

Welcome! When searching for content on here, just use google instead, and type "site:rs6.com yourSubjectGoesHere"

Don't touch the trans, the later the VIN the better in theory, odds have leaned that way though. Look into Koni Yellow Sport struts to get rid of the problematic DRC.

See the website in my sig for some more general info.

[RichardJones79]

The last 6 of my VIN: 905712, so far everything seems fine with the transmission, but I'll check the rear main seal for any leaks. I plan on changing out everything that touches the Timing Belt and the Alternator at the 5 year mark which happens to be August. Thanks for the advice, I'll have the dealership check on the fuel tank recall while I'm getting the front brakes done in a few months. When I get the Timing Belt done, I'll have them check the Turbos, Control Arms, valve cover gaskets, and timing guides.
So where do I find an RNS-E and is there a specific one that fits the RS6?
I'll probably wait until after the Timing Belt change for the Hotchkis Sway Bars, so are they easy to install, DIY?

Thanks for all the great advice!

[bethridg]

When I get the Timing Belt done, I'll have them check the Turbos, Control Arms, valve cover gaskets, and timing guides.

Welcome!

[6172crew]

I bought mine a few months ago, the upper control arms (non adjustable) are slightly out of spec. center diff leaks, drivers die CV boot, power steering line and the mass airflow sensors were bad. I replaced the coils with R8 type, new NGKs, timing belt, seals, water pump, valve cover gaskets, center lcd and afew other things.

[lswing]

Welcome!

Genious...although this car is about my favorite way to spend money. Smiles per mile!

[ttboost]

You'll run out of money long before you run out of things to fix on this car...LOL....

[RichardJones79]

Sounds like I need to setup an RS6 savings account just to try and stay ahead of all the maintenance and repair costs. Has anyone tried the Power Steering Flush using the turkey baster method? I was thinking about giving it a try this weekend. Also, what are the best Rotors and Pads for the Front Brakes. I was planning on buying OEM parts from jimellisaudiparts.com but that still runs around $1,400 mark.

[lswing]

Find a good independent mechanic for best results, not easy though. Any info you can source from here will help reduce labor hours. Never really hear of power steering flush/issues. Take it easy on your trans and it could last a while. I've lost two of them, but that's with some hard shifting, mostly over that now due to the $8k parts and labor cost...

Zimmerman brand is basically OEM, usually around $550 for a set of front rotors. Do not buy stock pads, heavy dust off, and the older ones at least had wear sensors that would eat into your rotors. Hawk or EBC Yellows seem to be a generally liked pad, do not use EBC Red as they can shatter/have residue issues. I've ran the Hawk HPS on a few cars now, no noise and very little dust. Not a lot of cold grab, but do just fine once warmed up.

Maybe look into getting the TCU (trans control module) chipped, around $500, and it's easy to access in the passenger footwell. Tightens up shifting a bit. 034 Motorsports seems to offer a good tune for it.

If the DRC isn't clunking or feeling really loose above 60mph, and the rear of the car doesn't sit high, then maybe it was replaced correctly. Fuel tank rollover valve if that wasn't addressed, but not all fail. Cam adjust tensioners could go any mile, Google those for more info, not an easy fix on passenger side at least.

I will add, the ONLY major driving/failure issue I've had was accelerating under cruise control, the car basically shut itself down and lost most power assist, this was going 80mph, but luckily found space to pull over on the side of the road. Restarted and all was fine. Some short in the stalk or braking sensor, never fixed...and I haven't touched cruise since.

[Other_Erik]

Sounds like I need to setup an RS6 savings account just to try and stay ahead of all the maintenance and repair costs. Has anyone tried the Power Steering Flush using the turkey baster method? I was thinking about giving it a try this weekend. Also, what are the best Rotors and Pads for the Front Brakes. I was planning on buying OEM parts from jimellisaudiparts.com but that still runs around $1,400 mark.

Find a good independent mechanic for best results, not easy though. Any info you can source from here will help reduce labor hours. Never really hear of power steering flush/issues. Take it easy on your trans and it could last a while. I've lost two of them, but that's with some hard shifting, mostly over that now due to the $8k parts and labor cost...

Zimmerman brand is basically OEM, usually around $550 for a set of front rotors. Do not buy stock pads, heavy dust off, and the older ones at least had wear sensors that would eat into your rotors. Hawk or EBC Yellows seem to be a generally liked pad, do not use EBC Red as they can shatter/have residue issues. I've ran the Hawk HPS on a few cars now, no noise and very little dust. Not a lot of cold grab, but do just fine once warmed up.

Maybe look into getting the TCU (trans control module) chipped, around $500, and it's easy to access in the passenger footwell. Tightens up shifting a bit. 034 Motorsports seems to offer a good tune for it.

If the DRC isn't clunking or feeling really loose above 60mph, and the rear of the car doesn't sit high, then maybe it was replaced correctly. Fuel tank rollover valve if that wasn't addressed, but not all fail. Cam adjust tensioners could go any mile, Google those for more info, not an easy fix on passenger side at least.

I will add, the ONLY major driving/failure issue I've had was accelerating under cruise control, the car basically shut itself down and lost most power assist, this was going 80mph, but luckily found space to pull over on the side of the road. Restarted and all was fine. Some short in the stalk or braking sensor, never fixed...and I haven't touched cruise since.

Damn multi-quote never seems to work for me. Had to quote, copy, back, quote, paste to get 2 above.

Seconding what others have said here.

1) Don't go to the stealership. There's a reason we call them stealerships. The only things to ever take the RS6 to the stealership for:
a) safety recalls (and be VERY clear you don't want them doing anything beyond just that)
b) new key programming (assuming you don't want to disable the immobilizer system)
c) free car wash with a "free diagnostic checkup" coupon (see item 1a on this as well)
2) See item #1. This is your new mantra.
3) Brake rotors, like motor oil and trans flushes, are a subject of debate here. Zimmerman are pretty much OE for pretty cheap on the fronts. You may end up getting solid 1-piece non-drilled rotors when you order them (as I did), and return shipping is never cheap. You may also have the good fortune of finding someone with an RS5 who's doing a brake upgrade and wants to get rid of their fresh wavey "scallop" rotors - these are a perfect fit and so far, I'm loving the set I got.
4) Brake pads, we have generally found good consensus: Don't use OE pads unless you like your front wheels to look mottled black with dust and don't mind the noise they generate. Don't use EBC Reds, there's a non-zero chance they'll detonate under heavy braking and then you'll be looking at new pads and rotors, probably rebuild/possibly replace caliper, possible replacement of other componentry at the corner that fails. Personal recommendation is Hawk HPC - low dust, low noise, not exactly stellar braking power, but when you do a full flush to DOT5.1 you'll almost never run into brake fade on heavy use.
5) Don't take your car somewhere to do brakes - this is one of the easiest maintenance items to do with the RS6. Assuming right tools and good directions, there's no reason to take more than an hour and a half to do the front axle (if you're taking your time and cleaning stuff as you go), and an hour for the rear axle.
6) RNS-E - PM me your email address and I'll put you in touch with Zawa - he makes a kit that's pretty much plug-and-play. I also have a set of directions that never made it to the DIY sticky on removing the OnStar module and battery - it's pretty specific with the RS6, if you go RNS-E and don't take this non-func junk out of the passenger footwell, you'll end up with a dead battery every 2-3 days, and probably harm your alternator trying to re-charge the battery every time you drive.
7) See item #1. I really can't stress this one enough.
8) If you've got good tools on hand and access to low-boy higher-lift jack and some jack stands (or a lift, even better!), then Hotchkis sway bars are easy-peasy and come with directions. Personally for me, it was easier to take to a local suspension shop and have them put mine on and swap my winter wheel/tire setup for my summer set last year because I was too busy packing house to take an afternoon to wrench. I think they charged me an hour of labor total for the entire thing, but then they do have all the nice pneumatic tools...
9) I haven't heard of this for the power steering pump. Give it a try and if it helps, could you link up some directions here? Never hurts to do inexpensive preventative maintenance on the Beast. If it can put off needing to overhaul/replace the PS pump for a while, I'll give it a try.

Okay, one big wall o' text, hopefully this covers your questions.
O_E

PS: nice, pretty late VIN. If you take your beast to the stealership for that gas tank rollover valve recall, have them check the build date? 905530 rolled off the line 10/10/03...

[RichardJones79]

Thanks again for all the great advice!
1-2,7) So the general consensus is to stay away from the stealership! Got it! Now I just have to find a reputable Indy Shop here in Nashville that has some experience with the RS6.
3) For Rotors, I believe I will just stick with OEM for now.
4) As for brake pads, do Hawk HPC or EBC Yellows have the brake pad sensors to ensure no Brake Warning light comes on?
5) DIY, Got It!
6) I'll PM you after the Holidays.
8) I'll have the Indy Shop that I find install them.
9) Here is the thread that explains how to flush the power steering: http://www.rs6.com/showthread.php/22...763#post215763

[Dmb408]

on your number 1) above, i wouldn't say that, find an indy who has experience with equally difficult/similar cars, like porsche 911's or something like that. I take mine, if I go indy, to a place that does tons of aircooled porsche work alongside mass market VAG cars. You just want someone competent and honest.

[lswing]

Rotors; Zimmerman makes the OEM ones for Audi I believe, they just sell the non-Audi branded house version for less, like Trader Joe's. Drilling may be different, and the OEM ones do have a nicer look and shine to the hats. Even though expensive, they last plenty long, so I think the cost isn't that bad really.

Some folks like this, doubles the life they say. Just send directly to Frozen, http://www.frozenrotors.com/

Pads; just complete the circuit for the wear sensor when not using OEM or pads without sensors, 5 minutes to connect the wires by the pads, computer thinks it's all good.

Good point, make sure you find a GOOD indy mechanic. I was fortunate to have one for years, but many mistakes can be made. Audi specific and make sure they have worked on the RS6 and not screwed things up. Or at least have a very good handle on things and can learn quickly. I try and bring the car in for something small to test out a new shop...

[bethridg]

EBC yellows do indeed come with sensors.

[EINHORN]

and tons of dust.

[lswing]

and tons of dust.

Yellows? OEM? You must be capable of making a more informative comment, experience?

I thought users liked the Yellows overall. The Hawk HPS are one of the lowest dust pads I've seen.

[rs6BC]

If you're in TN, I know a good indy in Memphis. Or come a little further to the guy Randy and I use in Little Rock