What are the "Must Haves" for the RS6?

[LaserSVT]

You know, the essentials that you need to do or buy for the car to not only keep it reliable but to get the best performance out of it? What mods to stay away from or brands to stay away from. What stores have the best deals on said items as well. I want this car to be one of the best and I will spend the next few years if I have to one part at a time.

BTW, not interested in stick conversion. I am older and lazier and fatter now and I like the slush box.
Since buying the car I have done: Trans service, fluid change on all 3 diffs, brakes, timing service with all the tensioners and pulleys and pump etc etc, coolant flush, center diff to diveshaft seal, gas tank (at Audi dealer now) and a bunch of misc broken interior stuff like console and cup holders and stuff like that.
Cars existing mods: Alcon 14.5" front brakes, coil-over conversion from Bilstein, tune (not a clue as to which one), Miltek resonated exhaust, Miltek high flow cat mid section, Hotchkis sway bars..... and I think thats it.
What else is the must haves for the best performance? Is their anything else in the maintenance section that needs doing? Mind you I am a mechanic and have already checked all the basics like sway bushings, ball joints, tie rods, plugs, system scan which showed EVAP leak (due to the tank leak) and both pyros reading high temp. Reset the code and just the EVAP comes back. If I get the pyro code again I will pop open the sensors boxes and check the soldier connections but for now it looks like it was a history code. The car did just spend nearly 4 months at a dealer, I am sure at least a few people beat the crap out of it. Even the dealer ship owner said he took it home a few times, never cared for Audis before but after driving this one the first time he had an all new respect for them so took it home several more times but never wants another on his lot because of everyone and their brother tried to test drive it which is why you had to prove you could buy it first. LOL Could have been just a sales tactic but he knew I knew cars and that I knew this one inside and out but he said the car drew more attention than the ZR1 sitting next to it.And all he has on the lot are M cars, Corvetts, Rousch, Shelbys, Porsches and a couple AMGs.


Sorry, I ramble. So, what did I miss and what should I inspect thats unique to these cars and/or problematic?

Also since I have no clue what tune is in mine and dont know if it has a trans tune. Should/could I buy a tuner or just get an off the shelf tune (so many to chose from with gigantic price swings, I have no idea what to use). Was easy back in 02. Oh you want more power from your S4? Send a check and your computer to APR. Now everyone has one. I only know SCT for my domestics and had the pro tools so I could change any parameter I wanted down to shift speed or individual injector pulse time. I dont want to do that with this car as I dont want to spend 6 months writing that perfect trans shift tune.

And if you have a performance suggestion/change please let me know where you got the best deal or best service. I dont mind paying a little more for better service.

Also I see all kinds of vagcom stuff everywhere. Now I do have a laptop but its single core and slow as hell. I do see there are wireless versions that would allow tablet usage. On the other hand laptops are cheap and I bet I could score a quad core for under a couple hundred. So my question is what are the essentials needed and where is the best place to get it from? And has anyone tried the Android based wireless version yet?


I noticed I was that noob making a million stupid question threads so I figured I should just condense it to this one thread and throw all the questions out there and stop cluttering the forum.


Thank you all gents, and ladies if we have some members. I am throughly impressed with the knowledge I have found here and the people too. This appears to be the best forum choice with the most knowledge.

[bethridg]

Fuel....lots of fuel.

But seriously, from what I've read your car is set. Drive it. Maintain it. Enjoy it.

[Turbowned]

Your car pretty much has all the top mods. Things I'd consider (if it doesn't already have them) would be Wagner intercoolers, upgraded diverter valves, water/methanol injection, TCU tune, and uprated engine/trans/differential mounts to reduce driveline slop. More fuel is always good You can get modified K04's from a few different suppliers that should give you a nice bump in power, but your transmission might feel the strain as well, so beware.

To take it to the next level, a lightweight battery, lightweight wheels, and a custom carbon fiber driveshaft would take some of the heft out of the car. You could also remove the outdated factory nav and OnStar system to free up a few pounds, and a pair of Recaro seats would keep your butt planted and possibly save weight, too.

[Other_Erik]

Bill, I had typed out a long long long reply then it got eaten by the forum... bah. Cliffs notes version below

Ceramic coating and Ti-laced header wrap, Bufkin pipe, Wagner IC's, Phaeton brake ducts, Sportec-cut belly pan, Poly trans and differential mounts, 10SecS4 Tune, SAI removal/code-out, definitely maintenance replace those EGT sensors if the solder mod doesn't fix them, forged wheels for light weight high strength... beyond that, you have probably one of the best examples I've seen of a modded RS6. Wish mine had come with all the cool toys you've got!

O_E

[LaserSVT]

Bill, I had typed out a long long long reply then it got eaten by the forum... bah. Cliffs notes version below

Ceramic coating and Ti-laced header wrap, Bufkin pipe, Wagner IC's, Phaeton brake ducts, Sportec-cut belly pan, Poly trans and differential mounts, 10SecS4 Tune, SAI removal/code-out, definitely maintenance replace those EGT sensors if the solder mod doesn't fix them, forged wheels for light weight high strength... beyond that, you have probably one of the best examples I've seen of a modded RS6. Wish mine had come with all the cool toys you've got!

O_E

I do need a belly pan as my car came without one. Where is a good place for that? What is the SAI? Also I have a fettish for the stock wheels and don't want to replace them. Also what is the Bufkin pipe? Actually I guess these are all things I can look up after work. LOL Just made a quick pit stop on my computer while I am trying to chase down electrical gremlins in a customers Saturn Aura, the biggest POS ever made.


I also am not looking to lighten the car. The CF shaft may be cool but beyond that I have two 65lb McIntosh amps, a 39lb subwoofer and probably 100lbs more in aftermarket speakers and DSPs. I will also be adding apx 80 lbs of sound dampening to the car. I want it to be the ultimate luxury supercar.

[Other_Erik]

I do need a belly pan as my car came without one. Where is a good place for that? What is the SAI? Also I have a fettish for the stock wheels and don't want to replace them. Also what is the Bufkin pipe? Actually I guess these are all things I can look up after work. LOL Just made a quick pit stop on my computer while I am trying to chase down electrical gremlins in a customers Saturn Aura, the biggest POS ever made.


I also am not looking to lighten the car. The CF shaft may be cool but beyond that I have two 65lb McIntosh amps, a 39lb subwoofer and probably 100lbs more in aftermarket speakers and DSPs. I will also be adding apx 80 lbs of sound dampening to the car. I want it to be the ultimate luxury supercar.

Belly pan is available from genuineaudiparts , jimellisaudiparts , etc... get ready for sticker shock, I believe they're somewhere in the $500 range for a piece of molded plastic, plus you'll need all the attachment hardware (~$127 sticker price, IIRC)

SAI is the Secondary Air Injection system - it's just a recirc valve to help warm up the engine on cold starts for "better" emissions. All the kombi valves and pump can be pulled, the ports blocked, and the vac line looped to fake the system into thinking it's working properly.

Bufkin pipe can be bought on ebay (search google for "bufkin site:rs6.com") - it's the pipe that leads to the engine oil auxiliary cooler. IIRC, ~16 hours of labor to replace a 3" piece of plastic piping that's prone to cracking / losing its seals.

Lightening your wheels (unsprung weight) will help you feel more butt dyno oomph when you drop the go pedal - that said, I don't have the cashola to do mine, but have 2 sets of stockers, one for summer one for winter. I gotta agree the 9-spoke 18's are pretty tits, especially when you get them redone meteorgrey

This can also serve as your daily reminder that I'm ridiculously jealous of the Beast you picked up - everything seems sorted properly and a ton of cash was splashed making it just right, I've been battling stupid little stuff since the day I got mine. We'll compare notes when I bring mine down to you.

O_E

[lswing]

I'm just going to add or repeat others here.

Struts
Hotchkiss sway bars
ECU and TCU tune
Bufkin pipe
Good gas, or add Aces IV
Fixed/tested stock IC's or upgraded
Venair or Wagner IC hose kit
Apikol MAF seals
Good/fresh fluids all around
Smoke test for any vacuum or boost leaks
Water meth kit
Reduce hard takeoffs and gear shifts if you can avoid it. I'm on trans #3
Check all water drains; by front doors and under cowl below windshield.
I would say Odyssey PC925C battery(s), but your stereo may need more power.

[LaserSVT]

I'm just going to add or repeat others here.

Struts - Done
Hotchkiss sway bars - Done
ECU and TCU tune - Done
Bufkin pipe - Will Do
Good gas, or add Aces IV - Have good station and have barrel of VP
Fixed/tested stock IC's or upgraded - Need To Do
Venair or Wagner IC hose kit - Ordering when car gets back
Apikol MAF seals - MAF/VC and few others done 3 months ago
Good/fresh fluids all around - Did last week
Smoke test for any vacuum or boost leaks - Tested vac, not boost. Replaced bad vac lines on diverters.
Water meth kit - Long way away
Reduce hard takeoffs and gear shifts if you can avoid it. I'm on trans #3 - I have been scolded and launch at idle now LOL
Check all water drains; by front doors and under cowl below windshield. - Did and clear
I would say Odyssey PC925C battery(s), but your stereo may need more power.- Will look into.

Allright! Looks like I am ahead of the game a bit!

[ben916]

A deep wallet.


Do I win?

[fukinavit]

Remove both of the aux rads, I did this and the car seemed to like it alot. Didn't see to suffer from heak soak as bad as all that inductive heat into the intercooler has gone. Coolant temps never go above 95c either.

[LaserSVT]

How many days a year is your outside temperature above 100*F? We had 100 days in a row over 100* year before last. Some days its up to 112*. I am not going to eliminate anything that Audi believed was needed to keep from melting the engine.

[Other_Erik]

How many days a year is your outside temperature above 100*F? We had 100 days in a row over 100* year before last. Some days its up to 112*. I am not going to eliminate anything that Audi believed was needed to keep from melting the engine.

QFT. Bill, you should set your location in your profile, fukinavit is from canuckistan, you're from southern Texas - bit of a climate difference. I'm in total agreement with you on keeping the aux rads everywhere south of the Mason-Dixon line, and not eliminating the aux trans cooler, even if it does simplify the plumbing...

O_E

[lswing]

Remove both of the aux rads, I did this and the car seemed to like it alot. Didn't see to suffer from heak soak as bad as all that inductive heat into the intercooler has gone. Coolant temps never go above 95c either.

ONLY do this if you're in the upper half of the US. I did pull mine since they were heavily corroded, and I did notice a bit more performance and lack of heatsoak. IF you're in an area where you routinely get temps above 80 degrees, and certainly anytime in the 90-100's then you need these for extra cooling. The engine stays cooler, and in turn other fluids stay cooler.

I can't confirm the exact temp changes, and have never had a temp issue, but I can say I've roasted a transmission or two, and part of my fear with that was overall fluid temps being higher.

Just put a water meth kit on...trunk mount discreet with Odyssey 925C battery and 2.5 gallon tank, easy.

[lswing]

How many days a year is your outside temperature above 100*F? We had 100 days in a row over 100* year before last. Some days its up to 112*. I am not going to eliminate anything that Audi believed was needed to keep from melting the engine.

I spent the last year in Central TX, down in Temple just an hour south of Waco. The temps were brutal for those 4-5 summer months, robbed a ton of power. I was careful on those days, and always was a bit concerned since I have the aux radiators pulled. This is a great area for water meth as it not only will improve performance, but keeps internal engine temps down. I think my EGT temps were at least 100 degrees less with the W/M.

[SteveKen]

Belly pan is available from genuineaudiparts , jimellisaudiparts , etc... get ready for sticker shock, I believe they're somewhere in the $500 range for a piece of molded plastic, plus you'll need all the attachment hardware (~$127 sticker price, IIRC)

The P/N for the belly pan includes all the mounting hardware.

The only thing you have to buy is the rear brackets that attach to the rear of the front subframe if they are not on your car. These two pieces are around $120

[EINHORN]

A deep wallet.


Do I win?

Money tree to fill said wallet.