Page 2 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast
Results 19 to 36 of 63

Thread: Another 01E conversion

  1. #19
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Evil Empire
    Posts
    466
    You might want to upgrade your fuel pump to 044 to go with those 550's.

  2. #20
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    chicago, milwaukee area
    Posts
    329
    Quote Originally Posted by nubcake View Post
    You might want to upgrade your fuel pump to 044 to go with those 550's.
    I actually have a walbro 450 with an 034 billet basket adapter ready to go in. When it comes time I believe Daz is going to help me convert to a single pump. I haven't messed with it yet because the two pump system is new to me.

  3. #21
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Kansas City, MO
    Posts
    381
    Quote Originally Posted by Fastguy View Post
    a set of pipes with high flow race cats
    Who did you go with? Milltek or other? Any additional details?
    03 RS6 Avus/Ebony #905593 resurrected 6MT, 04 Avalanche Z71, 87 T-Bird Turbo Coupe (351W T5), 04 Aprilia RSVR Factory

  4. #22
    Registered User Bigglezworth's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Cowtown, AB
    Posts
    2,232
    Good progress. Looking good.
    '02 S6 Avant Silver - Pokey | Carbon Black/Ebony RS6 w/ stuff - darn quick | '03 Daytona Grey/Ebony RS6 w/ more stuff - quicker yet | '91 NSX CDN issue with 6spd & BBSC - quicker yet and then some | '87 Buick GNX OEM clone w/ lots of stuff - quickest hands down

  5. #23
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    chicago, milwaukee area
    Posts
    329
    Quote Originally Posted by Bigglezworth View Post
    Good progress. Looking good.
    So as to not hijack this thread I will update my build thread very soon.

    In answer to your question about the pipes, as I understand it, I have the very first set of pipes acquired through ssac. I will update with complete details and pics as soon as I get them mounted (hopefully as soon as I get back to install everything).

  6. #24
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Kansas City, MO
    Posts
    381
    More parts arrived and less progress over the weekend than expected. Feels like Christmas!

    Voltage regulator (0031546506), turbo oil return gaskets (058145757C), header gaskets (077253039C), coolant temp sensor (059919501A).



    Downpipe studs (N90778702) / nuts (WHT000039) / gaskets (4B3253115), Turbo coolant (N0138493) and oil (N0138132) crush washers, crank bolt (078105229D), damper bolts (N10238805), rear coolant pipe o-rings, exhaust clamps (8L9253139A), driver's switch bezel (4B19595217PE)



    Oil / filter



    Gates timing belt (T297RB).



    USP braided stainless clutch line (was on sale over the weekend). I think it's near impossible to install the stock hard line without removing the brake booster. So $75+shipping is money well spent for keeping my sanity.



    Old vs new regulator. Probably was fine and the stator shaft did show some wear but expected for 101k miles. Rebuild/replace will be needed at some point.



    Before the tear down.



    Front crank seal was leaking a bit.



    Front crank seal removed.



    Cleaned up with new seal installed. Found that the lower serpentine belt roller sounded gritty when spun so a replacement is on order. Serpentine tensioner is in good shape.



    Driver's side half moon seal / cam tensioner gasket is leaking too.



    Passenger side wasn't too bad.



    All cleaned up!



    Intended on completing the cam seals / tensioner pads / valve cover gaskets and timing belt over the weekend but I broke the plastic tensioner compression tool. UGH! Two more on order...



    Cleaned up the gasket mating surface and called it a day.



    Rear crank seal was replaced and flywheel/clutch/pressure plate installed and torqued also. Have to hit the hardware store to grab a temporary bolt to align the starter per SteveKen's instructions while the trans is off. I went a little crazy ordering misc odds and ends over the weekend too. More to come!
    Last edited by bethridg; July 22nd, 2015 at 01:48.
    03 RS6 Avus/Ebony #905593 resurrected 6MT, 04 Avalanche Z71, 87 T-Bird Turbo Coupe (351W T5), 04 Aprilia RSVR Factory

  7. #25
    Registered User Bigglezworth's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Cowtown, AB
    Posts
    2,232
    Fun times!! Great update.
    '02 S6 Avant Silver - Pokey | Carbon Black/Ebony RS6 w/ stuff - darn quick | '03 Daytona Grey/Ebony RS6 w/ more stuff - quicker yet | '91 NSX CDN issue with 6spd & BBSC - quicker yet and then some | '87 Buick GNX OEM clone w/ lots of stuff - quickest hands down

  8. #26
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    chicago, milwaukee area
    Posts
    329
    Fantastic pictures and write up. This helps tremendously as I can relate what I'm doing to every pic. Trans is sitting at home but I am not. As soon as I get back I get to start on the steveken kit. Hopefully you continue with the same wonderful detail as you do the trans install as well

    i already got got a tip from you as I did not order a new 2.7 caps and spacer. I am going to do that now!

  9. #27
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Kansas City, MO
    Posts
    381
    Quote Originally Posted by Fastguy View Post
    Fantastic pictures and write up. This helps tremendously as I can relate what I'm doing to every pic. Trans is sitting at home but I am not. As soon as I get back I get to start on the steveken kit. Hopefully you continue with the same wonderful detail as you do the trans install as well

    i already got got a tip from you as I did not order a new 2.7 caps and spacer. I am going to do that now!

    I've spent the better part of the last 6 months researching, planning and looking up part numbers. The pictures are a great reference when putting everything back together and if it helps someone else tackle any part of this project then awesome! There are 5+ other 6MT threads on here (including yours) that are excellent resources. It would have been a lot more difficult to justify if those were not available.

    Now hurry up and get home so we can hear more about those turbos and downpipes you have!!!
    03 RS6 Avus/Ebony #905593 resurrected 6MT, 04 Avalanche Z71, 87 T-Bird Turbo Coupe (351W T5), 04 Aprilia RSVR Factory

  10. #28
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Kansas City, MO
    Posts
    381
    Mo' parts, Mo' progress. Spent a significant time cleaning up the grit and grime buildup under the car.

    JHM solid linkage upgrade and stabilizer bushing.



    Accessory roller (077903341)



    Went ahead and picked up the 034 metal faced throwout/release bearing. So far I'm happy with the decision. I was having nightmares of being forced to drop the trans again due to the plastic unit failing.



    Transmission fluid



    Specialty wrenches for timing belt eccentric tensioner.



    Brake fluid reservoir to clutch master cylinder supply hose.



    Cam chain tensioner pads replaced. Wear was typical compared to the other pictures I've seen with similar mileage. Make sure you have the specialty tool seated properly on the pad and not hung up on the chain before compressing or you'll end up breaking the tool and have to wait for a replacement. Learn from my mistake!



    Paint pen used to reference alignment for reassembly. All the cam caps had to be loosened then gently lift the cams so the tensioner could be removed. I wouldn't want to do this with the engine in position.



    Tensioner reinstalled and cam seal replaced. Rinse and repeat for opposite bank.



    There is a seal behind the cam position sensor reluctor ring. The cam alignment tool used to break bolts loose and re-torque.



    Timing belt service. Torque to spec plus half turn on the crank bolt was a bit difficult with the tools I have access to right now.



    All back together!



    After getting the transmission mated I tackled some more upgrades. The stock shift linkage is VERY sloppy.



    JHM solid shift linkage installed. Even with holding the shifter box in hand there is a noticeable difference when engaging gears. I'll probably end up getting their short throw shifter eventually but that can be swapped with the engine/trans in place.



    Stock early style stabilizer bushing. This is where most of the slop originates.



    JHM delrin stabilizer bushing installed. Cleared up a lot of the horizontal movement. Worth the $30 while you have easy access.



    Sub-frame reinstalled. I used a pair of 13mm deep well sockets to align the motor mount bracket and subframe. There is a specialty tool (3393) for this but that got me in the ballpark for now.



    Pretty much all that's left to get it back in the car is figuring out the turbos. Been going back and forth on whether to do a straight rebuild or upgrade. I also need to build a longer VSS harness. Maybe others just reroute but I'd prefer to keep it in the stock location.
    03 RS6 Avus/Ebony #905593 resurrected 6MT, 04 Avalanche Z71, 87 T-Bird Turbo Coupe (351W T5), 04 Aprilia RSVR Factory

  11. #29
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Kansas City, MO
    Posts
    381
    Things are happening!!!

    Long story short, in an attempt to save a few hundred dollars I ordered a set of CHRAs from a company in CA without doing my usual due diligence. Which cost me tons of headaches, a month of downtime and now dealing with a CC dispute. Anyway, I ended up doing what I should have done in the first place and ordered from Midwest Turbo Connection.

    For those that haven't seen a fully disassembled K04 see below. I hadn't touched a turbo since tossing a rebuild kit on the IHI turbo that was in my T-Bird after blowing the oil seals. i actually just planned on rebuilding these turbos but while I was separating the housings I accidentally broke off an edge of the bearing housing (stuuuupid).



    Chasing threads. I had a few studs in the turbine housing that would not come out. Attempted to heat and extract but eventually it just sheared off. Drilled out the broken stud and gave up on the others. All new hardware was used where I could.



    Following Fastguy's lead, I first contacted SSAC which in turn directed me to Sean as SRM for info on these downpipes. Yes, they did come from China but they don't look to be complete junk. We'll see how long they last and for the money it was a better route to go than cutting up my stock units.



    Ah, the final piece to this puzzle.



    Time to reassemble the turbos! Pretty simple process. Bolt ALL the things together!!!





    Fully assembled driver side turbo.



    Fully assembled passenger side turbo.



    Installing them on the motor was a challenge. Tight quarters and short oil/coolant supply lines. Don't want to think about doing this with the motor in position.





    I had to remove the passenger exhaust manifold again, position the turbo then re-install the manifold. So frustrating.





    Adjusted the wastegate actuators and installed the downpipes.



    Need to heat up and adjust the drivers side secondary 02 sensor bung to clear the shift linkage. These will be coded out eventually but I don't like the idea of having disconnected connectors on the firewall if I just plugged the bungs.





    Also over the last month I removed the secondary radiator system, wired in the clutch switch to the ecu harness, removed the TCU and replaced the fuel filter.

    What next? Will do some wire management, leak test the turbo connections, slide the motor back into position then flush/bleed the clutch slave cylinder and brakes. If things go well I should be able to fire it back up by the end of the weekend. YAY!
    03 RS6 Avus/Ebony #905593 resurrected 6MT, 04 Avalanche Z71, 87 T-Bird Turbo Coupe (351W T5), 04 Aprilia RSVR Factory

  12. #30
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Battle Ground, WA
    Posts
    332
    Call me crazy, but that looks like a lot of fun! I did mine back in October/November of last year, and had a great time with the conversion! Toward the end I was ready to be done and driving it, but now I'm *kind of* wishing I had another big car project to do..
    RS6 #1, 01E, 2.5" straight pipes, AMD Stage 1 6MT tune, 460awhp/530awtq on AMD's Mustang dyno. TOTALLED.. RS6 #2, Ebony Black Pearl on black/silver combination with carbon, up and running with 6 gears and AMD tune.

  13. #31
    Registered User kruat's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    Longview, WA
    Posts
    393
    You can always do mine Daniel...haha. I'm fighting the urge to do this swap.
    -Mike-
    03 RS6 Mugello/Ivory #905565
    01 S4 Casa/sport/6spd

  14. #32
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
    Location
    chicago, milwaukee area
    Posts
    329
    Ha! reading your post sounds almost as if I were writing it myself....your experiences are almost identical to mine. I did the exact same thing on the passenger side turbo. VERY frustrating. Had to remove manifold, set turbo and lines, and then reinstall. What a pain. Also, I noticed, that the turbos needed to be clocked PERFECTLY to fit properly.

    One thing I noticed from your pictures earlier...did you properly tension the timing belt using a 5mm allen at the tensioner and then do two full revolutions again and check? The tensioner damper piston in your pic seems fully inward. I was confused with this procedure as it is not the same on the 2.7 but did eventually figure it out. Oh, and you must bend the driver side 02 bung with heat, a pipe and patience. It will not be coded out as the car needs it to run properly. Only the rear 02's will be coded out. Also, if you plan to do emissions with these pipes, the rear o2's must be coded out because you will notice that the rear bungs are pre-cat. I believe they are merely there for tuning or monitoring of exhaust gases (not for the cats). I installed a wideband sensor in mine and I actually purchased two new front o2 sensors.

    You are much braver (or much more experienced) than I as I would be scared to rip into the turbos like that. I know I would never get them reassembled properly and I've been told the only way to properly build them piece by piece is to have the equipment to balance them at very high rpm. I've heard very good reviews about midwest turbo (and they are close to me).

    I didn't know this until after I began reassembly, but you need some alignment pins (just in case you were unaware) for little holes in the front of the subframe, the engine mounts, and the body. It was a little difficult getting them to line up but I finally got that also.

    I am still doing finishing touches on mine even though I've had it running a few times. I tested the turbos for leaks both oil and water pre-installation, and then once engine was back in the car, as soon as I could, I filled the coolant reservoir with straight water and pressure tested overnight. My idle tested showed me a leak at the upper banjo bolt on the ps pump even though I had installed two brand new crush washers. I also noticed a slight rattle in the compressor so I pressed out the clutch bearing the new one arrived just moments ago.

    Racking my brain with possible issues you might encounter...embarrassing but worth noting: I go to start the car for the first time. Install battery, turn key to accessory position, and WHOA...the starter begins cranking away. Luckily the gas line is not primed yet and, even better luck, the starter pulls out with the key switching instantly back off. Worried, nervous, and confused I start racking my brain for a cause. I am thinking that I somehow got the starer solenoid connector accidentally smashed against the main lead to the starter. Cursing, I start planning my attack to drop the damn engine again and pull the starter. I walked away for a few hours just to allow myself to calm down and think. I realize upon reassembly of all the connectors I had almost everything labeled. For some reason, I failed to label a set of connectors over near where the SAI pump was. Since I have removed and coded out the sai pump, the connector is no longer necessary and will be neatly zip tied out of the way. The connector, however, is identical to what I now know is one that powers the solenoid below. So, when the key was switched on, power for the SAI pump was accidentally being delivered to the starter solenoid. Phew. As long winded as that was I wouldn't want someone else to make the same mistake...it's scary. Also, I needed to explain myself

    EDIT: In case you were unaware, and since you have the ss flex line as I do, it's easiest to bleed the slave/clutch master cylinder with it dangling before you lift the engine. This way as you are lifting the engine and trans all you have to do is give yourself enough room to reach in there and install the slave into the hole in the trans. I think it is possible to bleed the slave after the engine is installed (there is a TON more room with the manual) but you would still be doing in from below the car and reaching upward. You would also need to pop a line on the bleeder port so you don't have fluid running all down the sides of the transmission (and with my luck probably right into my mouth/face).

  15. #33
    Registered User ttboost's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    CT
    Posts
    2,457
    Absolutely positively bleed the clutch before you get everything back in the car. You can connect everything up and still have room to get to the bleeder. I cut a 2x4 to wedge between the drivers seat and the clutch pedal (as I had to work alone). Bled very quickly and easily with the new SS line.

  16. #34
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Kansas City, MO
    Posts
    381
    Quote Originally Posted by Fastguy View Post
    The tensioner damper piston in your pic seems fully inward
    I looked back at everything I posted and all I could find that matches this description is a pic prior to installing the timing belt where the retention pin was still in place on the damper. I followed the instructions I've found in multiple places and manually turned over the motor a handful of times to check for any valvetrain interference in addition to cycling the starter.

    I did note during disassemblely that it was about 1 tooth off. I think it's going to be in better shape than it was the last time I did the TB service because this time I popped the cam sprockets.

    Quote Originally Posted by Fastguy View Post
    You are much braver (or much more experienced) than I as I would be scared to rip into the turbos like that.
    My bravery is only as deep as my wallet or whom ever is covering the bill.

    Quote Originally Posted by Fastguy View Post
    you need some alignment pins
    A set of 14mm deep sockets work well as substitutes. I may invest in the real deal sometime. It's amazing how much time, effort and usually money you can save with the proper tools.
    03 RS6 Avus/Ebony #905593 resurrected 6MT, 04 Avalanche Z71, 87 T-Bird Turbo Coupe (351W T5), 04 Aprilia RSVR Factory

  17. #35
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Kansas City, MO
    Posts
    381
    Quote Originally Posted by ttboost View Post
    Absolutely positively bleed the clutch before you get everything back in the car. You can connect everything up and still have room to get to the bleeder. I cut a 2x4 to wedge between the drivers seat and the clutch pedal (as I had to work alone). Bled very quickly and easily with the new SS line.
    I hear yea. This was the plan from the beginning. I used the extension pipe for my 3/4 ton jack handle and a block of wood. But I f'd up and stripped the bleeder valve. Don't ask me how....it just happened. New slave on order. FML.
    03 RS6 Avus/Ebony #905593 resurrected 6MT, 04 Avalanche Z71, 87 T-Bird Turbo Coupe (351W T5), 04 Aprilia RSVR Factory

  18. #36
    Registered User
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Kansas City, MO
    Posts
    381
    Motor is in position but....problems.... I tore a motor mount trying to lift the motor, motor mount brackets, and subframe as one assembly. Ordered 034 mounts and resistors.

    I also have a clearance problem with the shift linkage. The stabilizer rod is good but the shift rod is making contact with the transmission tunnel. I can feel the interference in the shifter knob. Unable to engage R-4 gears cleanly. Don't know if it's the early style shift linkage I have or I'm just dumb.
    Last edited by bethridg; September 13th, 2015 at 07:04.
    03 RS6 Avus/Ebony #905593 resurrected 6MT, 04 Avalanche Z71, 87 T-Bird Turbo Coupe (351W T5), 04 Aprilia RSVR Factory

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •