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Thread: How to know if my DRC is working properly.

  1. #1
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    Mech How to know if my DRC is working properly.

    Hi my name is Armando and this is my first thread, I purchased my car a month ago and I love it. But I was wondering if there's a way I can find out if my DRC is working properly. I will appreciate any input. Thanks

  2. #2
    Registered User Other_Erik's Avatar
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    Park on a flat level surface, measure ground to top of wheel arch, make sure it matches side to side for fronts, and side to side for rears. Then take a short drive and pull hard turning maneuvers at low speeds, if you feel a lot of bounce or hear tire chatter then it's likely the DRC is leaking somewhere. It's not an "If" but a "when"...

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    Registered User lswing's Avatar
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    When mine was not working there was harsh feeling on small bumps, clunking noises, and very dangerous movement above 60mph on anything not flat, basically no rebound control occurring. Next step would be to have a shop check the line pressure and leaks.

    Bounce at high speeds and chatter at low speeds as mentioned above is very much correct.
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    Registered User ben916's Avatar
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    Ah! The age old question resurfaces! {patiently waiting for Dave $.02}

    A perfectly working DRC should have the car FLAT in the corners and soak up any ripple in the pavement with some feedback. You may feel some differences with brand of tire and surface.

    First, you will hear some clunks and thuds from the trunk. It would be wise to remove all items from the trunk and the storage areas and lower the rear seats so you can hear properly.

    THE best test is the 80 MPH test (at your own risk of course): get up to 80 mph and swerve hard to the next lane.
    If there is no drama, DRC is working properly.
    If there is drama, call your warranty company.
    If there is GREAT drama, call your insurance company.

    EDIT: ensure that your tires are properly inflated and rims balanced as that can produce odd effects in DD.
    Last edited by ben916; March 11th, 2015 at 17:36. Reason: skpelling
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    Thanks for the quick response guys really appreciate it. I will get on it and let you know how it goes.

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    You can feel no rebound control.

    Please post pics and your vin in the sticky thread.

    Welcome to the crazy train

    Quote Originally Posted by lswing View Post
    When mine was not working there was harsh feeling on small bumps, clunking noises, and very dangerous movement above 60mph on anything not flat, basically no rebound control occurring. Next step would be to have a shop check the line pressure and leaks.

    Bounce at high speeds and chatter at low speeds as mentioned above is very much correct.

  7. #7
    Registered User Bigglezworth's Avatar
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    No need to drive the car. This is simple and the laws for confirming DRC are the same as a car without DRC. Push down on each corner of the car. A car with correctly functioning dampers will push down and then back to standard height immediately. A car with non function dampers (those depleted of pressure which a failed DRC does not only for 1 damper, but for the one on the opposing corner), will see the car bounce back up and continue to bounce for an additional couple of seconds. Effectively ride height is controlled by the springs so you can't simply measure. It is entirely about dampening.

    IF you can't tell this way, then it becomes increasingly obvious if your car 'wobbles' or 'teeters' to and fro on opposing corners when you come to a stop. Clunking as described by a few is obvious, but cars with decreased pressure in the dampers can still be considered non-functional without there being any clunking. Clunking comes when there is zero pressure and you've squished out nearly all remaining fluid within the damper.
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    Registered User ben916's Avatar
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    The push down test never worked for me (160#) and the aluminum fronts would cause me some anxiety of a large dent...
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    Registered User Bigglezworth's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ben916 View Post
    The push down test never worked for me (160#) and the aluminum fronts would cause me some anxiety of a large dent...
    NP. The aluminum is quite strong actually Push down on the ridge of the fender. It doesn't take much. You can also push down on the bumper. Again doesn't take much to confirm if you have excessive bounce.
    '02 S6 Avant Silver - Pokey | Carbon Black/Ebony RS6 w/ stuff - darn quick | '03 Daytona Grey/Ebony RS6 w/ more stuff - quicker yet | '91 NSX CDN issue with 6spd & BBSC - quicker yet and then some | '87 Buick GNX OEM clone w/ lots of stuff - quickest hands down

  10. #10
    Registered User 4everRS's Avatar
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    I seriously can't believe I've been so lucky with by drc on both my old car, and this one.

    Tim, did you get my pm?
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    so just an update on DRC, I did the tests you guys helped me with and the good thing is that my DRC feels to be working properly but the bad thing is that I am going to need front suspension bushings . I have a extra set of control arms for my 2004 a6 4.2, will those fit my RS6.

  12. #12
    Registered User Bigglezworth's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by MandoRS6 View Post
    I have a extra set of control arms for my 2004 a6 4.2, will those fit my RS6.
    Yes. Parts are the same.
    '02 S6 Avant Silver - Pokey | Carbon Black/Ebony RS6 w/ stuff - darn quick | '03 Daytona Grey/Ebony RS6 w/ more stuff - quicker yet | '91 NSX CDN issue with 6spd & BBSC - quicker yet and then some | '87 Buick GNX OEM clone w/ lots of stuff - quickest hands down

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