So it has begun.

[Fastguy]

I started disassembling the front of the car this afternoon to begin my project. Here is my plan:

6MT swap
Turbos rebuilt
Remove SAI/EGR, rear 02's
Open downpipes
VC gaskets, tb service, water pump, pulleys, etc
If I can find them, replace the boost hoses with silicone (coming from 2.7 and everything available in complete sets) assuming will need to purchase each hose individually?
intercoolers re-cored.
*EDIT* now adding the bufkin upgrade aluminum connector, 2.0 coil packs and adapters, and meth injection to lower IATs with the re-cored stock SMIC.

I ran into my first issue. I'm impatient at times. This is the result:



I struggled, and was going to attempt heat, but these fittings would not budge....and there is no hold-back point on the cooler itself. I was forced to hold the cooler with a pair of channel locks while wrenching on the fitting with an open-end wrench. As you can see, it didn't turn out well.

I'm assuming this is a combo oil/trans cooler? Is there a part number for the radiator? When complete I will no longer have an automatic transmission...if this is also a trans cooler what should I replace it with?

[lswing]

Change the pads for the cam chain adjusters, and associated seals. Blauparts has a nice kit for around $180. There is also the oil/coolant exchange pipe, made by James Bufkin, aluminum instead of plastic for $25. Upgrading the IC hoses never hurts; Venair makes a nice kit for around $200. Good luck, looks like you're in deep now! You going with AMD or EPL for the ECU tune and code clearing?

This general maintenance page has some info and links also. http://audirssix.com/index.php/overview/maintenance

Be interested on what you go with for wastegate pressure also.

[Fastguy]

I'll order the cam chain adjuster pads separately and I was going to order this kit: http://www.blauparts.com/proddetail....od=GH21132-1-C

As for that little fitting...where exactly does that go? I am coming from the 2.7 and everything I do makes me relate to it. On the 2.7 the oil cooler is a little device that allows the coolant to run through where the oil filter sits. That radiator I broke the fitting from...that the engine oil cooler only? What recommendation do you have for that repair or replacement on reinstallation? It'll be a while before I am to that point...but I like to figure out and order parts as I break them so I'm not waiting for days on reassembly. Also, I forgot to add to the list that I am installed a devils own meth injection kit that I had intended for my built engine that is now sold.

I am going with a friend that tunes 2.7's. He is a GOD with them, and has the capability to repair clusters, recode and tune TCU's and ECU's. His tune has been moving my 2.7 for over a year (I still have two A6's besides the newly acquired RS). He is also going to have the RS turbos redone and built with good stuff. I trust him implicitly. I am sending him the intercoolers and the turbos to have both redone. He is getting the cores upgraded in the intercoolers. I'll have him tune me remotely just as he does with the 2.7's. I could actually probably code out the egr, sai, and 02's myself with a little research (it's been a while since I worked with the maps in tunerpro), but I have done it. Tuning is a whole different story. Takes an expert to tune, log, tweak, log, tweak, log, etc.

[hahnmgh63]

On the 4.2 40V motors (including the A8/S8) the Cooler is on the front right side, just in front of the oil filter mount. Behind the oil cooler there is a short (2.5") plastic pipe (coolant) that cycles coolant into the engine mounted oil cooler (2 oil coolers, engine mounted and front mounted as you found out siamesed with the ATF cooler). The small plastic pipe gets brittle with age/heat and starts to leak. You pretty much have to drop the engine to get at it as it is real tight in there with the right engine mount. The Bufkin pipe mentioned is also improve as it has double O-rings on either end besides being made out of Aluminum.

[Fastguy]

On the 4.2 40V motors (including the A8/S8) the Cooler is on the front right side, just in front of the oil filter mount. Behind the oil cooler there is a short (2.5") plastic pipe (coolant) that cycles coolant into the engine mounted oil cooler (2 oil coolers, engine mounted and front mounted as you found out siamesed with the ATF cooler). The small plastic pipe gets brittle with age/heat and starts to leak. You pretty much have to drop the engine to get at it as it is real tight in there with the right engine mount. The Bufkin pipe mentioned is also improve as it has double O-rings on either end besides being made out of Aluminum.

Ok. That makes sense. Something I'm sure I will see (and upgrade) as I have the engine out. Good time to do it. Now just have to decide what to do with the cooler I broke. Is that cooler really necessary since there is one at the engine as well?

[s8prtotype]

Your buddy doing the intercoolers can most likely repair it at the same time. Still got the part that broke?

[Fastguy]

Your buddy doing the intercoolers can most likely repair it at the same time. Still got the part that broke?

Yep, it might be difficult to get out of the hose. It broke off in there because it was so tight. I don't see how in the world I would ever be able to get it out of there. I think

[s8prtotype]

You could just get away with an oil cooler up front only since you're doing a tranny swap. I'd definately not delete the oil cooler on this car. So you'll have to custom fab something if you can't fix it.

[Fastguy]

If I can't find one for cheaper, I found that ECS has a universal one that looks like it will work.

[Bigglezworth]

Do yourself a favor and get your mind out of 2.7 land..... This is different - period.

Also, there is a host of information on every possible thing you are thinking about doing. Search is your friend.

Best of success with your efforts. I just completed servicing/repairing everything you have on your list plus a few other items on one of the rides I have here... Slow and steady wins the race.

[Corbett]

Why are you running green coolant in an RS6?

[Fastguy]

Why are you running green coolant in an RS6?

I am not. Previous owner had, I have the pink stuff siting on the shelf. Actually haven't driven the car at all. Won't move.

[lswing]

Just to mention it, the search here doesn't yield much. Use google and add "site:rs6.com"...best of luck on your adventure!

[rrooccaa]

s8prtotype
you have a pm bro

[Fastguy]

Only 12 hours and she's ready to drop. All that remains is one banjo bolt on the ps pump, and the subframe bolts. IC already gone to get re-cored. As soon as engine is out turbos coming off and getting sent away to have them built. Then it's time for the 6mt swap to begin. Just need to figure out clutch setup and order an adapter kit from steveken next week!

[TMAC]

Cool, looks like you are having fun!

[Fastguy]

All disconnected except for that bundle down near the alternator and runs up along through the firewall. Have to see where it goes and best way to disconnect it. But my question now; this big bastard will actually clear the frame if I gently lower it as the frame will sit much higher? It looks like a REALLY tight fit. Almost like it won't clear entirely.

[Bigglezworth]

All disconnected except for that bundle down near the alternator and runs up along through the firewall. Have to see where it goes and best way to disconnect it. But my question now; this big bastard will actually clear the frame if I gently lower it as the frame will sit much higher? It looks like a REALLY tight fit. Almost like it won't clear entirely.

You need to disconnect the wiring from the starter, alternator, and engine ground. Always a bit of a fuss, but this is where it needs to be removed from. Oh, and yes the engine lowers just fine between the frame rails. Yes it's tight, but it does lower.