Rotors and Pads?

[JohnnyB]

Ok probably dumb questions but I don't have a lot of experience here.

Getting to be replacement time. After getting a quote of $2200 from a local shop (!!) citing mainly expense of parts. I did some digging and found what look to be decent deals on partsgeek.

http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/200...ake_rotor.html

http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/200...e_pad_set.html

I'm considering either the Centric rotors ($380/ea) or OE Quality ($318) and the Yellowstuff pads. I'm having a hard time finding decent reviews on either rotor brand. I found a good DIY guide (I have pretty much zero wrench experience but I'd really like to learn) so I'm considering doing this on my own and saving some coin. Am I crazy for attempting this on my own? And does anyone have any info on either of these rotors? Would I want to do the fronts as well, even though they still have some life left?

Thank you!

[lswing]

OEM or Zimmerman rotors, Hawk or EBC Yellow pads, independent shop. There's a thread recently going over all this, and stay away from parts geek...

http://www.rs6.com/showthread.php/31...-Rotor-Options

[JohnnyB]

Interesting. I've been searching for a thread on this but for whatever reason that one didn't show up. Thank you for the link!

What's the issue with Partsgeek?

[DHall1]

+1


........

OEM or Zimmerman rotors, Hawk or EBC Yellow pads, independent shop. There's a thread recently going over all this, and stay away from parts geek...

http://www.rs6.com/showthread.php/31...-Rotor-Options

[lswing]

Here's one mention of bad service, http://www.rs6.com/showthread.php/31...otors-question

For searching, use Google, and add "site:rs6.com" in your search field.

[JohnnyB]

Here's one mention of bad service, http://www.rs6.com/showthread.php/31...otors-question

For searching, use Google, and add "site:rs6.com" in your search field.

Holy Mindblown! How have I been on the internet this long and never known I could do this! Thanks, Friend!

Regarding PartsGeek, I'm seeing pretty much equal parts good and bad reviews, mostly dealing with service quality rather than part quality. Am I an idiot to roll the dice here? The prices are hard to beat...

[lswing]

My favorite piece of info I learned this year! I'd be tempted, but there are a good 5-10 other sites.

[Bigglezworth]

Buy the parts and do this yourself. Swapping rotors and pads is one of the easiest things to do on any car outside of changing the oil or a tire - I kid you not.

[lswing]

Buy the parts and do this yourself. Swapping rotors and pads is one of the easiest things to do on any car outside of changing the oil or a tire - I kid you not.

I only watch my mechanic work, but isn't the front caliper a bit tricky with the pads? He was cursing about something, design/style of it...

[Bigglezworth]

I only watch my mechanic work, but isn't the front caliper a bit tricky with the pads? He was cursing about something, design/style of it...

Nope. Opposite of that. The pads are pie shaped to permit swap out without removing the caliper or rotor. There are two drift pins on the top that hold in sheet metal retainer clips, You simply get a hammer and a drift and tap them out. Once out you wiggle the rotor a bit to push the pistons back in to the caliper and free up the pressure of the pads and then use a screw driver (or even your fingers) to push each pad up and out of the caliper. Then it's merely a 3/8 rachet with a 10mm allen head socket (or a 10mm allen head wrench of course) to take off teh two bolts that hold the caliper to the spindle. Hang caliper from some metal wire or a metal coat hook that is tied to the upper spring to ensure the brake lines don't get stretched and bent with the weight of the caliper (it does weight quite a bit).

IF the drift pins become seized inside the caliper (something that can occur on cars that drive in winter climates with salt on the roads), this might be easier said then done. The option is to then remove the caliper with the pads still installed (something that most calipers do anyway), and once removed, push each pad off it's seat and in towards where the caiiper sits. Do one at a time so that you con't struggle with the retention clip, and you'll have the pads swapped out in 5 minutes.

Rotor is held in place by the wheel when it bolts up, so all you need to do is pull one off and put other on. Use a couple of lugs to keep it from dropping on the floor while you remount the caliper. Install tire. Push pedal 2-3 times to ensure brake is pressurized.

I'm not joking when I say pads and rotors can be swapped on the front of this car in under 30 minutes - both sides - from drive in to drive out

[RSoverAll]

Interesting. I've been searching for a thread on this but for whatever reason that one didn't show up. Thank you for the link!

What's the issue with Partsgeek?

Avoid partsgeek as mentioned in this post and various others. I've never bought from them but a few friends have and received the wrong part, when they tried to contact them about a return Partsgeek would only communicate via email and they took 3 weeks to get their money returned minus a restocking fee.

Cheaper parts maybe but the non-existent customer service in the event something goes wrong is not worth the headache. Buy the best you can afford and save by installing the parts yourself.

[hahnmgh63]

I think the Centric are one piece rotors so you may be saving money with them but you gain unsprung Weight, and putting more heat into the Wheel bearing & bearing seals.

[lswing]

I think the Centric are one piece rotors so you may be saving money with them but you gain unsprung Weight, and putting more heat into the Wheel bearing & bearing seals.

Agreed, would stay away, not that much cheaper really, especially for a part that lasts years.

[Bigglezworth]

Isolated hubs are indeed done to prevent heat soak from the rotor to the wheel bearings. If you don't track your car hard, or aren't doing multiple high speed slow downs, you can certainly look to eliminate the isoltated hubs. Most won't do this simply because they aren't that rigid with their driving... lol

[JohnnyB]

Thank you guys for the great info. So I'm getting enough feedback to stay away from Parts Geek. They're not THAT much cheaper anyway and the last thing I need is another headache.

I can't seem to find Zimmerman rear rotors anywhere. Front discs are abundant but for whatever reason rears are difficult to come by. Anyone have a lead on a decent site? The other thread has a few links to Advance Auto but they're sold out. Anyone out there have a good lead on those?

I've been reading up on pads and I'm torn between EBC (yellowstuff) and Hawk HPS. Seems like a compulsive argument can be made for either. It might come down to what I can get a better deal on.

I found this DIY guide for brakes and discs: http://www.yellowdogracing.com/Audibrakes.htm. Looks pretty simple to follow. This would be my first real DIY job (oil and tire changes notwithstanding) but hey, we all gotta start somewhere. Anyone been here and have any beginner tricks for me? I'm hoping to get a friend to help who does have a little experience but he's kinda flaky so it may end up being just me and this nifty guide.

And the last dealer said I had about 4mm on the front pads. Do I need to do those as well, to keep everything uniform? Will I need to change the discs every time I do the pads?Thank you guys for helping me out. This vehicle is by far the most fun car I've ever had (and also the most expensive) and you guys are a wonderful community. I'm thankful to be a part of it.

[Falltboat]

Johnny i'm putting some yellowstuff fronts on my car this week, from what I hear they are solid. We should set up a Denver meet some time. There are 3-4 more in the area somewhere. I would replace the fronts if they are OEM lots of horror stories about them cutting into the rotors. http://www.rs6.com/showthread.php/23...Pad-Dash-Light for example.

[JohnnyB]

I'm definitely in for a Denver meet. I saw one pull in to a costco near my house and tried to catch the owner buy they'd already gone inside. Would be pretty sweet to have a Denver cab on this Crazy Train.

Should I replace front discs as well, or just pads? I'm pretty sure they're all OEM currently.

[G2]

Centric is an import brand. Have used their products for a decade plus at shops w/o issue. Would i use their rotors on an RS6....not a chance. They are either knocking them off or rebranding is my guess.

Stick with OEM/audi or Zimmerman brands.

EBC pads are probably the best for cheap. Yellow is good all-round (not sure if I'd hit the track with these). Very recently put EBC Blue pads on a RS6 and seemed fine even when cold. Very progressive, even when new. Had Hawk pads on it (not sure which ones)- OK, but not much better IMHO than OE type (which can be dreadful). Can't speak to any more experience on Hawk. Changing my car from Yellow's to Blue very soon....(the Blues were for my car but mr. customer got them)

While doing brakes is "simple" very few actually perform a "proper" brake service. There are many little steps involved. Cleaning, lubing, purging brake fluid. Rear brakes require a way to screw the pistons back in (acroyn: PITA). Special tools are available. Most front brakes need or should have the brake hoses replaced from what I've seen (worked on 3 rs6's and 1 R8 in the last couple months). A complete brake flush should be done (every 2yrs). Keep in mind the front calipers have 2 bleed nipples per caliper (don't strip them...). There is a flush procedure for the dual diagonal brake system. A pressurized fluid flush tool is preferred, unless you have 2 people. What brake fluid to use? DOT 4 LV Pentosin is my go to. 'LV' is crucial to the proper operation of ABS/ESP system and meets the latest federal specs. Brakes feel better in daily driving also. (you'll need 1/2 gal, BTW).

There is a lot of cleaning involved. Scrubing, sanding/prepping all surfaces where the pads sit, wheel hubs, even the wheels- all mounting surfaces of every component. Proper use of caliper lube, antiseize and loctite. Good quality tools are needed- torque wrenches. The caliper carrier bolts should be replaced per VOA. There's a brake hardware kit available (guide pins and pad retainer). Good idea to get that.

There is some skill involved aligning the caliper to carrier (if the 2 radial bolts are removed; or weren't aligned from the prior brake service). Front brakes, of course.

Will most shops, or even some, do all this? No. Neither will most DIY'ers (sorry, it's the reality). Very few pro's do (or can) because the flat rate times allotted for most services are inadequate to real world conditions. Are all these little steps needed? Yes, at least on my cars and the ones I work on-- even basic daily driver cars. They get the same care. Our 8 pot Brembo calipers are race brakes. I know qualified and experience auto tech's that have little to no clue about them. But they know the basics enough to be safe.

Brakes are indeed easy. But the devil is in the details.......ones that will effect the wear, longevity, performance, even safety. When brakes cost what they do for these cars, no expense should be spared on the labor side of the check sheet.

Ignorance just isn't bliss, not on these machines ;-)