Is there a way to replace the passenger side camshaft position sensor (G40) without tearing off the front bumper, draining coolant and hydrolic lines, A/C discharge, intercooler pancake pipe and such? That looks like hours of work (and not thrilled about A/C discharge) just to get at the CPS.
I also understand that the cam adjusters are often at fault? Should I get a different code for those? (I'm only getting VAG 17748 on my vagcom).
You don't have to take the front clip off, but you will need to put it in service position. That involves removal of inner wheel well liners and bumper skin, coupled with removal of the bunper shocks and a few fasteners here and there. You don't have to drain the radiator fully, but it's best to drain a couple of litres as you will need to disconnect the upper hose. No requirement to remove any of the other hoses for any of the coolers aside from the upper intercooler hoses that feed the Y-pipe. You can also leave all the headlights in. Just need to rotate the front clip orward enough to get the Y-pipe and timing belt cover off in order to unbolt the housing that contains the sensor at the end of the intake camshaft. Anyone with a 2-3 major repairs on this car under their belt can R&R a T-stat in just over a couple of hours, and this is less than that since you can remove the sensor without having to remove the timing belt.Originally Posted by audidude
'02 S6 Avant Silver - Pokey | Carbon Black/Ebony RS6 w/ stuff - darn quick | '03 Daytona Grey/Ebony RS6 w/ more stuff - quicker yet | '91 NSX CDN issue with 6spd & BBSC - quicker yet and then some | '87 Buick GNX OEM clone w/ lots of stuff - quickest hands down
Well, that is the book answer. I replaced both of my as a preventative when the engine was out a few years ago but I did do the passenger side on another RS6 with the engine in. Not easy but it can be done. You will only need to drain the Radiator, or enough of it to get the Coolant hose off that goes in front of the passenger cam cover and then remove the larger Diverter valve hose that Goes to the intake pipe. Of course the Intake pipe (silver plastic for air cleaner) needs to come off as well as the front Carbon fiber cover that goes over the diverter valves. Then you can undo the metal clips that hold on the plastic upper timing cover. Don't forget to undo the plug and I think it was 3xM6 bolts which need a 10mm socket that hold the CPS in place. Pop your hood and take a good look at it to see if you want to tackle it. It really helps to have a video inspection camera or a very good inspection mirror at the least.
2003 White RS6 2013 Midnight Blue S5
2013 Daytona RS5 2x944 Turbo's 1974 911 w/'91 3.6ltr motor
Roy, WA
Thanks for the info! I've been tackling this tonight, unbuttoned everything, service position, liter or two of coolant drained, lock carrier pulled forward, timing belt cover off. This car has 140k miles on it, and those torx bolts have really gone through their life during maintenance. After removing a couple of stripped bolts I finally have access to this thing.
After all that work, I still get the same G40 code. Bummer. (Car has rough idle, starting issues, etc). I guess next thing to look at is the alternator. That was the only code though, so figured I'd test it first.
Can you kindly post the G40 part number?
Thanks.
058905161b
Reply With Quote
