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Thread: Question on Replacing the upper control Arms

  1. #1
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    Question on Replacing the upper control Arms

    So normally I see that the entire strut is removed from the car to access and replace the upper control arms. This is what I did on my previous A6 - 2.7T. With the DRC on the RS6 (I still have mine) - is still the case? What about the fluid line ? Seems you cannot completely remove the entire strut with out disconnecting the line and then what about recharging the system. I don't want to tear into this without doing my home work. I attached a video on the A6 R&R.

    TIA -

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jrYAAtlsjnY

  2. #2
    Registered User hahnmgh63's Avatar
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    Just remove the upper nuts holding on the top of the strut tower and let it lower down a few inches and you can get at the inside bolts on the upper strut control arms. Don't forget to do final Torque on the nuts & bolts once the car is sitting on it's own weight.
    2003 White RS6 2013 Midnight Blue S5
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    Is it possible to do those final torque-down motions without having the car on a drive-on lift/alignment rack? Say, if I were to do it in my garage with nothing but jackstands, ramps, and a floor jack. I would then need to drive/tow it about 16mi to my work for an alignment. Or I could just pay one of the techs to do it, but I'm trying to DIY as much as possible.
    2017 Subaru BRZ Limited w/ Performance Pack 6MT
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  4. #4
    Registered User RSoverAll's Avatar
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    It is possible to torque the control arm bolts on just jack stands. Remove the wheel, jack w/ a block of wood or similar under the lower ball joint, jack up until lower control arm is level, torque control arm. If you are gonna drive it in and have it done elsewhere, just make sure they are snug before you take off.

  5. #5
    Registered User Bigglezworth's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Turbowned View Post
    Is it possible to do those final torque-down motions without having the car on a drive-on lift/alignment rack? Say, if I were to do it in my garage with nothing but jackstands, ramps, and a floor jack. I would then need to drive/tow it about 16mi to my work for an alignment. Or I could just pay one of the techs to do it, but I'm trying to DIY as much as possible.
    Absolutely. With your car on jack stands, take your floor jack and jack up the u/s of the spindle where the control arms bolt in. Raise jack until full weight of car is on the jack and the body is just starting to raise off the jack stand. Then tighten up all control arm bolts and sway bar bolts.
    '02 S6 Avant Silver - Pokey | Carbon Black/Ebony RS6 w/ stuff - darn quick | '03 Daytona Grey/Ebony RS6 w/ more stuff - quicker yet | '91 NSX CDN issue with 6spd & BBSC - quicker yet and then some | '87 Buick GNX OEM clone w/ lots of stuff - quickest hands down

  6. #6
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    Thanks guys!
    2017 Subaru BRZ Limited w/ Performance Pack 6MT
    2003 Audi RS 6 quattro 5AT - sold

  7. #7
    Registered User Bigglezworth's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Turbowned View Post
    Is it possible to do those final torque-down motions without having the car on a drive-on lift/alignment rack? Say, if I were to do it in my garage with nothing but jackstands, ramps, and a floor jack. I would then need to drive/tow it about 16mi to my work for an alignment. Or I could just pay one of the techs to do it, but I'm trying to DIY as much as possible.
    Remember that the only item you can adjust alignment wise on the front of these cars is the toe-in/out. You cannot adjust either camber or caster. Unless you are swapping tie-rods, it's a waste of your $$ on an alignment.
    '02 S6 Avant Silver - Pokey | Carbon Black/Ebony RS6 w/ stuff - darn quick | '03 Daytona Grey/Ebony RS6 w/ more stuff - quicker yet | '91 NSX CDN issue with 6spd & BBSC - quicker yet and then some | '87 Buick GNX OEM clone w/ lots of stuff - quickest hands down

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