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Thread: Rough start, flashing CEL, here are the codes...

  1. #19
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    Before you get hip deep in evil...

    As a sanity check, pull the serpentiine belt and start it up. Sometimes the alternator, A/C compressor/clutch or serp tensioner can cause a racket the reverberates everywhere.

    Plus if the sound still remains, the other sounds of the accessory driven items will be silent enough to do more 'root-causing'.
    2012 Q7 TDI S-Line - 2010 GTI - 2007 A3 3.2 S-Line - 2003 RS6
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  2. #20
    Registered User lswing's Avatar
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    Thanks Steve.

    Fired it up for the tow truck, lumpy idle, clicking, flashing CEL again. Guessing same codes. Going down to Brink Motorsports, Mike has worked on these before, and will scan once it arrives. I'll pass on any info.

    Thinking about getting that alternator replaced/rebuilt while she's down there, still stock from what I know, and been suffering under the heat and AC draw.
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  3. #21
    Registered User lswing's Avatar
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    Update; shop scanned, misfire on 5,6,8 this time, not just 6,8 like I first had. Thinking cam adjuster, pass side...
    Ace/Edge TC - Tozo Trans - MTM TCU - REVO/ME7 tune - Wagner IC's w/ Venair Hoses - Aux Radiator delete - Hotchkis Sways - Hawk HPS Pads - Koni Sport Struts - Scroll KO4 Turbos - Devil's Own WM - 421whp/452wtq on Mustang Dyno - http://www.audirssix.com

  4. #22
    Registered User mik15's Avatar
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    i have a dead cam adjuster as well, but the car runs fine, no misfiring codes, no strange sounds, mine is on driver side, you might have some broken chain guides due to the clicking noise, but these were just as rare as my failed cam adjuster on these cars, so i don't really think that's what it is in your case....plus mine is at 143k miles, yours has a lower mileage...funny though, my cam adjuster also failed after having the car parked for a week or so....
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  5. #23
    Registered User lswing's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mik15 View Post
    i have a dead cam adjuster as well, but the car runs fine, no misfiring codes, no strange sounds, mine is on driver side, you might have some broken chain guides due to the clicking noise, but these were just as rare as my failed cam adjuster on these cars, so i don't really think that's what it is in your case....plus mine is at 143k miles, yours has a lower mileage...funny though, my cam adjuster also failed after having the car parked for a week or so....
    Looking at the details of a cam adjuster I could see it getting sticky with lack of use. How do you know the cam adj has failed if no issues? Scan right, maybe failing but not failed? Broken guides on startup, assume they will show upon inspection. Thanks!
    Ace/Edge TC - Tozo Trans - MTM TCU - REVO/ME7 tune - Wagner IC's w/ Venair Hoses - Aux Radiator delete - Hotchkis Sways - Hawk HPS Pads - Koni Sport Struts - Scroll KO4 Turbos - Devil's Own WM - 421whp/452wtq on Mustang Dyno - http://www.audirssix.com

  6. #24
    Registered User mik15's Avatar
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    i had no idea mine failed, if i hadn't done a scan wouldn't have known...then i realized that i couldn't hear anymore that clicking sound between 1100-1250rpm, so it all became clear that my adjuster doesn't work any-longer...i suspect is my solenoid which failed, i don't think the adjuster got stuck....will change the solenoid over the weekend and it should shed some light whether my theory is right or not...
    Ex.: 2004 Audi RS6 C5 ABT, Milltek non-resonated, 19" RS4 B7 rims, RNS-E - SOLD
    2004 AUdi RS6 C5, SE exhaust, RNS-E, 19' original rims - SOLD
    Now :2009 Audi RS6 C6 - stock yet pretty fast

  7. #25
    Registered User lswing's Avatar
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    Passenger side was reading 16, failed drivers side reading -7...

    You should get an electrical code if the solenoid has failed. Also it's your drivers side failing right? Here's to our passenger side lasting until 200k!
    Ace/Edge TC - Tozo Trans - MTM TCU - REVO/ME7 tune - Wagner IC's w/ Venair Hoses - Aux Radiator delete - Hotchkis Sways - Hawk HPS Pads - Koni Sport Struts - Scroll KO4 Turbos - Devil's Own WM - 421whp/452wtq on Mustang Dyno - http://www.audirssix.com

  8. #26
    Registered User mik15's Avatar
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    well, i have a short to plus error, and if unplug it i get open circuit error, this is why i presumed mine could be a faulty solenoid, keep my fingers crossed, i should find out in the weekend...also driver side...

    i think if yours reads -7 then it got stuck, mine reads -1.5 and moves up to 0.5, but that's all, it doesn't go any further, unlike the passenger side which goes through the whole range...
    Ex.: 2004 Audi RS6 C5 ABT, Milltek non-resonated, 19" RS4 B7 rims, RNS-E - SOLD
    2004 AUdi RS6 C5, SE exhaust, RNS-E, 19' original rims - SOLD
    Now :2009 Audi RS6 C6 - stock yet pretty fast

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