Needing a new engine or maybe just new heads

[yokust]

Was that your illfated car??

No not my car, bought this one to turn a S6 into a RS6. But owner of S6 is not sure he wants to spend the money for the motor swap is happy with his just 6spd right now and RS6 body work.

The poor car was salvaged titled at 20k for hail damage, and I think Helen Keller repaired and painted it, and then had trans fail and rear end damage. Sadly even with super low miles, not worth repainting the car and putting a trans in it

[DHall1]

You have my email. Option could be to sell the car as is and not risk major $$ down the drain.

I need a clean body donor car with a blown driveline.

I've lurked here for almost a decade, gleaning what I could from this great forum but now I find myself in need of some help for an issue I can't resolve on my own.
I started having some cam tensioner noises and, to make a long story short, the fixes are adding up to more than the car is worth.
I have about 124k on the car and have had no real problems up until now but I believe that finding a salvaged engine may be the most economical way of staying on the "crazy train".
I have been in contact with the guy selling one on ebay and it seems a good option, but was wondering if folks on this forum knew of an engine out there where they knew the background of that particular engine. (Folks who are salvaging their own cars etc.)

Any help would be appreciated.

[mik15]

i too had the same sound on my first RS6 with 65k miles on it and i have it as well on my second one with 143k miles, yet it is a tad more noticeable on the higher mileage one. But i heard that noise on all RS6 C5 i drove, and 2 of them were at 30k miles and 45k miles respectively, so i am not worried. A friend of mine replaced the cam tensioners and the noise did disappear for a while, however it has now came back.

If that is your problem i wouldn't replace that engine for this reason, oh no, don't do that!

[MaxRS6]

^+1- Slight rattle could merely be cam tensioners, or even low oil or change.

I would take that thing to another trusted tech for another opinion.

[DHall1]

Guys

The physical damage cant be denied. Cam journal wear and screen failure.

Replace the engine complete and not take any chances.

[ben916]

I've owned the car for 8 years or so. 2nd owner. Always maintained. The noise was new and as I said, I just started to notice that I would here that sound when I would blip the throttle (in gear) and when it was hot. (no noise when cold. Oil was good, level correct. Car was running fine except for that sound. It was diagnosed that the Cam tensioners were getting low oil pressure which was causing the rattle but as soon as the RPMs brought up the pressure, the sound would go away. Once the tensioners were removed, there is a little screen over the oil inlet that you can see has been damaged (curiously on both sides) Whatever went through there also got into the first bearing on both sides and scared up that bearing enough that the shop believes it needs new heads (or at least one) We have pulled the oil pan and there doesn't seem to be anything unusual in there. Now, I understand that I am at the mercy of the shop and my own lack of experience with the engine (I rebuilt a couple of vw bug engines in years past but that is the extent of my wrenching) but the mesh and the scoring were obviously there.

Are you going to Redmond European?
I don't know enough about PNW shops so I can't recommend any. I had University Audi do my timing belt.

From what you indicate about the foreign body causing scoring on the bearing, a new head(s) would be more than likely the correct diagnosis.
What is possibly more concerning is that the FB as not been located and may still be in a line causing "arteriosclerosis".

[DHall1]

Or bodies

?........

Are you going to Redmond European?
I don't know enough about PNW shops so I can't recommend any. I had University Audi do my timing belt.

From what you indicate about the foreign body causing scoring on the bearing, a new head(s) would be more than likely the correct diagnosis.
What is possibly more concerning is that the FB as not been located and may still be in a line causing "arteriosclerosis".

[Rustic]

Are you going to Redmond European?
I don't know enough about PNW shops so I can't recommend any. I had University Audi do my timing belt.

From what you indicate about the foreign body causing scoring on the bearing, a new head(s) would be more than likely the correct diagnosis.
What is possibly more concerning is that the FB as not been located and may still be in a line causing "arteriosclerosis".

Yes, Redmond European. And yes, that is the concern. I don't want to treat the symptoms and leave the disease unknown.

[ben916]

Yes, Redmond European. And yes, that is the concern. I don't want to treat the symptoms and leave the disease unknown.

My vote is a new used motor.

Get a new one in and drive it.
Sell the "FB" motor to someone that can/will tear it down and rebuild it.

[Rustic]

I also have a complete motor from a low mileage wrecked car has 35k on it.

feel free to PM me regarding the engine Thanks

[Rustic]

My vote is a new used motor.

Get a new one in and drive it.
Sell the "FB" motor to someone that can/will tear it down and rebuild it.

Anyone on the forum know folks that are rebuilding these engines?

[Zmey]

Throw a 2.7t in it. j/k. Good luck

[Avus-RS6]

Anyone on the forum know folks that are rebuilding these engines?

Wow, sorry to hear of your troubles.

AMD in Woodinville would know about rebuilding these engines, they swapped heads on mine (actually short blocks on existing heads, same thing) and have a built RS6 engine in the shop now.

[alrightroad]

Throw a 2.7t in it. j/k. Good luck

... or a built AAN

[alrightroad]

I would just like to point out that Ben is showing his snooty, high-end euro car attitude... "multi level parking structures" WTF. The common man calls it a deck.

[alrightroad]

I'll be serious now... Rustic, sounds like engine should be swapped. Given all the comments above and the physical damage you saw that is the safe bet (proactively). I get tensioner or chain chatter a little under full boost with tuned ECU but have never heard it riding around under full boost with stock ECU. Never hear the chatter at low speeds where oil pressure is low. I think these motors can be oil starved at high or low rpm's... all depends on age, wear and oil type. Did you check your oil pump pick up screen to be sure no holes indicating objects being force upwards somehow? Bottom line is you could drive it like this for another 80K miles, who knows. Being proactive with it is best, as we all know.

I'd be interested in buying your existing motor if/when you make the swap. I'm in no rush but I am looking for one to build. Shipping might be rough... I am opposite to you, in SC.

-eric

[NSU RS6]

OK, THIS in bold, I had that sound at day one of ownership (I was a 2nd owner of a 36k mile Fastest Colored RS6).

You see, Mugello Blue cavitates the air at +20mph, thereby creating a slipstream that makes it go faster than any other color. So I have heard. I haven't been able to detect any cavitational boost with my Daytona Grey, but she is plenty fast enough for me.

I would drive in multi level parking structures and could hear the clickety clack as soon as I would press on throttle and I never had a code for

After sitting a few days, I get some valve clatter at startup. Like the 94 S4 I had before this car. Like the 4000CSQ I had before that. Like the 4000 5+5 I had before that. These cars like to be ridden hard and put away wet (within reason). Valve clatter to me is just a snore before the morning hookup.

[hahnmgh63]

After my car sits a few weeks I get a touch of clatter for a few seconds but I don't think it's the Lifters (it might be), but I think it's the cam tensioners (maybe not?).