904865

[lswing]

Get the Ross-Tech VAGCOM software if you can, makes a world of difference in diagnosing issues.

You might be feeling the Torque Converter disengaging, it feels like a shift. If you drive around in Tip so you can see the numbers on the dash you'll know. Took me a while to get a feel for it....

[Styhl]

ya i'll get a ross tech as soon as i can i've called them and made sure i know which one to get, i'm considering picking up a windows tablet so i can run logs w/o having to break out my laptop in the car. they told me it runs fine on windows 8. which my laptop has anyways.

[Styhl]

Got a bit of free time so I took my car to chk on my c/e light, a couple o2 sensors are basically dead. They weren't giving any reading at idle or under revs from park. I known I read that the subframe can be dropped and the engine be lowered a bit to make them all excessable. Could someone tell me where they all are or point me to a thread with pictures possibly? And how much lowering of the engine are we talking? 3inches? What all should be disconnected to create enough slack to do this? The car runs fine but I'm betting these all help my mpg and rich/lean control

TIA

Ryan

[DHall1]

Which O2 sensors? You have 4

Who checked this? Codes? You need a full vag scan not a Autozone special before tearing into this one.

Engine pull is best. But its a big job not to be done by a rookie.

Got a bit of free time so I took my car to chk on my c/e light, a couple o2 sensors are basically dead. They weren't giving any reading at idle or under revs from park. I known I read that the subframe can be dropped and the engine be lowered a bit to make them all excessable. Could someone tell me where they all are or point me to a thread with pictures possibly? And how much lowering of the engine are we talking? 3inches? What all should be disconnected to create enough slack to do this? The car runs fine but I'm betting these all help my mpg and rich/lean control

TIA

Ryan

[Styhl]

Bank 1 upstream wasn't registering movement at all it would show like 0-1.2% or even -0.8% at idle. where the others were showing 99.2% bank 2 downstream was similarly non responsive, but
Let me review the audio from my dash cam I'll give ya what he said, he did reset it and it drove without a c/e light for a good while but I put my foot down a bit getting on highway and it came on again. Haven't got a vagcom yet he had one on loan but it was reclaimed, I'll get one soon and before we tackle this I'm sure.

[Styhl]

This is what I could hear in my audio sample,
catalyst fuel trim system to lean bank 1
Warmup catalyst downstream 1, upstream 2
Bank1 sensor 1 showed no fluxuation
Bank2 sensor showed very little fluxuation
Short term fuel trim bank 1 sensor 1

We turned my Revo map back on to see if it fixed the problem, I had it of due to bad tires on front, all sensors started to show movement tho b1s1 was still way down comparatively.

[DHall1]

Need the codes

Need to see data log

3, 31, 115 in turbo mode after you reset ecu. 3rd gear pull from 3000 to redline. Then driving steady at 65mph

[Styhl]

Just to keep all my personal car things in one place, I'm having an alternator issue, I asked about a solar panel adaption to charging, on a different thread. The real problem is my alternator or volt regulator is Kaput, my voltage charge indicator shows me getting 11volts at best off the dash, if I get the car under an engine braking load or peak hp it comes up to almost turning the batt light off.

Last night I started the car and my auto ac engaged at startup and made a screech, so I turned off the ac and turned it back on. Earlier in the day it kicked it out of ac into econ mode a couple of times right before i parked the car(engine at idle) it was about 100deg outside. That night when i went to drive home from my friends on startup everything was normal but i noticed my batt light on the dash was on and my charging point was at 11v,

So thinking through the chain of events I think on my startup when the belt screeched it lugged the alternator bearing lose and the little bit of driving I did to get dinner and back freed it the rest of the way up, there is no rattle under the hood, the car drives normal but i'm only pulling down 11v. does anyone think it might be something other than an alternator bearing from the above scenario?

My thoughts to fix is buy one from like autozone 185 +80 core, eat the core cost and rebuild my OE one.

[Styhl]

K so, the previous owner wired up an aftermarket bluetooth, sadly they hard wired it w/o a fuse to a lead in the fuse box, and grounded it near it as well, i'm hoping that removing this fixes my voltage problem, and it hasn't caused damage to my alternator or voltage regulator.

[ben916]

My thoughts to fix is buy one from like autozone 185 +80 core, eat the core cost and rebuild my OE one.

IIRC, you will not be able to locate an alternator at Autozone, but you will either have to purchase a new one or a rebuilt one or rebuild it yourself. Another tricky nuisance of the RS6.

[Styhl]

autozone has a duralast lifetime warranty one. http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...29_23521_1752_

Part Number: 15539

[Styhl]

So, my next project after alternator fix, I think needs to be brakes, I was looking for recent posts for Something along this line and didn't find anything this decade, previous owner put on redpads and I know it has phaeton cooling kit, I didn't know what rotor I should go with. I'll have to check what it currently has, I saw the OE pads are only good to 40% before they start teething on the rotors. Looks like were paying about $1500 for new pads and rotors all 4 corners. Does this sound normal?

[Styhl]

So I have a slight fuel leak I had my mechanic call Audi dealer in OKC, this is second hand from Audi to my mech to me ,but when they put in my VIN they service computer gave them all kinds of notices no one had ever seen for preferred service contact Germany 1 of 3 etc. So I thought it was neat more or less confirms what we thought not 100% but if I take it there for service I'll see if I can get more history. Wish me luck on the fuel issue in the mean time.

[nistah]

Looks like were paying about $1500 for new pads and rotors all 4 corners. Does this sound normal?

Rotors can be had for approx $300 a corner or slightly less, check www.partsgeek.com EBC yellow pads (stay away from the reds) are $230 F&R so your yea your looking at $1430. If anyone else has a better option I would be interested to hear as I need new rotors and pads soon also

[Styhl]

I joined the Audi owner club of north america, I reckon way up here in Amarillo I'm one of very few lone star chapter members.

[Styhl]

Some scratched her gonna take it to try and get buffed out later this week/early next.

[Dmb408]

What about your alternator and O2's did you get that solved?

[Styhl]

Alternator yes, I'm going to get my OE one rebuilt and I have a duralast one from Autozone on and working like a champ. O2 sensor not yet. Car's not having any driving issues with it; no temp issues, fuel consumption as expected. I did a 5k oil change and now am using Schaeffer oil and have a cooler and slightly better efficiency.