6MT Conversion Project

[RAUDI]

It was $85 plus shipping for the solid upgraded mount. That is exactly 1/1000 of this car's purchase price. I'm not rich, but this machine deserves the right stuff.

For what it's worth. You would be in $10 for hardware, $20 for coolant, 2-3 hours labor to get to it, and and hour or 2 to modify your broken one with 10+ year old rubber.

[surferdude]

I agree, better to do it right while the front end is apart. Swinging by 034 to get one, just got off phone with them, looks like it should fit.

[RAUDI]

Must be nice to be able to just swing by a place with all the sweet goodies for the ride. I have to send them my turbos for upgrade after I get the adapter kit.

Back to topic. Valve cover gasket kit came in today and cam tension tool. Going out to change those and learn how to powder coat. wahoo.

[Zmey]

Must be nice to be able to just swing by a place with all the sweet goodies for the ride. I have to send them my turbos for upgrade after I get the adapter kit.

Back to topic. Valve cover gasket kit came in today and cam tension tool. Going out to change those and learn how to powder coat. wahoo.

Im sorry maybe i missed it somewhere, but what kind of upgrade are you doing to your turbos? Bigger compressor ? Anything with the hot side ?

Btw thank you for posting this thread, and updating your progress, it's been very educational and informative.

[alrightroad]

Looking good. Keep up the good work. Still trying to figure out how you were able to smile while under car after dealing with that 310# bulk.

[RAUDI]

Im sorry maybe i missed it somewhere, but what kind of upgrade are you doing to your turbos? Bigger compressor ? Anything with the hot side ?

I was kind of short with that. I am planning to get their wastegate upgrade to go with AMD ECU upgrade. My turbos seem to be in pretty good shape and I can't justify more money to clip the wheel or do a rebuild right now. With the 6mt in there they should be pretty easy to get to in the event of a failure.

Does anyone know who provides that service, or have a website or any kind of real information on it? I haven't found much on it. Is it less expensive than I am imagining?

Btw thank you for posting this thread, and updating your progress, it's been very educational and informative.

You are completely welcome. I wish I didn't find something new and broken at every turn, but it's a really good experience that I couldn't have done without this forum. It feels good to be contributing. I can't believe how much I'm learning. PM me your email address and I'll add you to my Google Drive Folder. I have been updating and tracking every penny spent, part numbers, data from members, manuals, and websites with information.


In other news, I am 80% sure I sold my wakeboard boat today. That will move this along quite expeditiously.

[RAUDI]

Looking good. Keep up the good work. Still trying to figure out how you were able to smile while under car after dealing with that 310# bulk.

It was such a relief to get it out. I had been stuck for a over a week by that point by the last 2 bolts blocked by the turbo.

Thank you. Other than the pinch to the fat tire around my waist, lowering it went pretty easily. I'll never do it again. Pulling the engine was a breeze and would have made all of this better.

[RAUDI]

I went ahead and mounted the 034 Density torque/snub/lateral/front/upper engine mount today to show that it really is the right thing. It went perfectly. It took me longer to remove dirt than to install it.

[RAUDI]

More goodies arrived today with another shipment expected tomorrow. It is pouring rain here so I can't play with my sweet new outdoor powdercoating stove yet.

Gates Blue Kevlar Timing Belt. I'm glad it came with stickers. I'm going to put them right on the bumper. That way everyone will know how super cool I really am.



Valve Cover gasket kit and Cam Tensioner tool

[RAUDI]

Changed out the Bufkin Pipe.

NOTE: The 2 bolts inside the manifold seem to be a long shank 7mm hex. This is important because most tool kits skip this size.

NOTE 2: I did this pretty easily without removing the manifold at all.

Remove the 2 allens that hold on the pipes. One on the black pipe at the cooler. One at the rear of the block below the exhaust manifold. Take out the long banjo bolt and be sure to keep track of the washer between the sensor and cooler bracket.



Stock Pipe



Side by Side



Bufkin Pipe in its new home. I put a little white lithium grease on the o-rings to keep them from rolling out.





Don't lose the dowels like I almost did. I had it one and then spotted one that had fallen to the floor. It should have 2. There are 3 spots on the block, but only 2 on the bracket. Torque spec is 45 nm or 33 ft/lb



This car is really testing the expoxy floor coating.....and my patience.



Done with that.

[Bigglezworth]

NOTE: The 2 bolts inside the manifold seem to be a long shank 7mm hex. This is important because most tool kits skip this size.

As I mentioned in the other thread that I've been performing pretty much verbatium the same things, I wasn't so lucky in getting the exhaust manifold off and had to abandon a specialty 7mm Allenhead inside the exhaust manifold access port after it stripped out the head and wasn't able to be removed. Glad no one else has had that hell. As for fluid on the floor, it seems to keep coming and coming doesn't it. Once you remove non-RS oil cooler, it seems the coolant and oil both from that unit keeps on leaking for hours. Just when you think it's empty, you turn it 90 deg's and more fluid seems to come out... I have an uncle that is a machinist and he machined me up a trio of the coolant couplers similar to the James Bufkin units. Still a wonder why this part was never aluminum.

[RAUDI]

As I mentioned in the other thread that I've been performing pretty much verbatium the same things, I wasn't so lucky in getting the exhaust manifold off and had to abandon a specialty 7mm Allenhead inside the exhaust manifold access port after it stripped out the head and wasn't able to be removed. Glad no one else has had that hell. As for fluid on the floor, it seems to keep coming and coming doesn't it. Once you remove non-RS oil cooler, it seems the coolant and oil both from that unit keeps on leaking for hours. Just when you think it's empty, you turn it 90 deg's and more fluid seems to come out... I have an uncle that is a machinist and he machined me up a trio of the coolant couplers similar to the James Bufkin units. Still a wonder why this part was never aluminum.

Yikes! I missed that part of your job before. I'm going to go review yours.

You read my mind about the fluid. I had just mopped the floor, thinking that this would be a quick and clean job. It was quick. It wouldn't surprise me if I lost 20% of all of the fluids right onto the floor during all of this. wipe, wipe, wipe, wipe, wiping it up.

[RAUDI]

Does anyone know if I will need to take off my valve cover to replace the cam seals that come with the Timing Belt kit?

[Bigglezworth]

Does anyone know if I will need to take off my valve cover to replace the cam seals that come with the Timing Belt kit?

Nope. Replaceable from the front once you've removed the cam sprokets.

[RAUDI]

Thank you, Bigglezworth. Doing my valve covers today then. Heading out to play around now.

[JSRS6]

its addicting, isnt it? i cant wait to do mine.

[RAUDI]

I am thoroughly addicted, JRSS6. I feel like I find something new that needs to be done to complete anything I go to do. It's a seemingly never ending loop.

Special tools came for the timing belt job.

I got the valve covers off today.

Does anyone know what this green clip is? There are 2. One on each side. The harness connectors are brown and green. I noticed that one was broken. They both disintegrated upon inspection.

I had to set up the kerosene heater outside and aim it at the powerwasher for 10 minutes to thaw it out enough to use it. Powerwashed the covers and the engine mount brackets.

Walked over to the local machine shop and they let me use their blasting booth to clean them up. They have corrosion damage and should probably be replaced, but that is out of my budget. They were not and will likely not leak in the future. It looks like someone tightened one of the corners too much and cracked it. (external to the sealed area) I should have some more pics of that tomorrow, but for now I have this one.(post blasting)

[Zmey]

Does anyone know who provides that service, or have a website or any kind of real information on it? I haven't found much on it. Is it less expensive than I am imagining?

Scroll-http://scrollproducts.com/en/turbo-rebuild-service rebuilds $1300-1500 they can also upgrade wastegates and other things on request.(for additional$$$)

midwest turbo connections-http://midwestturboconnection.com/ rebuilds ~$1000

loba-http://www.loba-motorsport.com/shop/...ochargers?c=39 lol.. if you ignore the price and scroll to the bottom of the page, its saying that they can overhaul your original rs6 turbo to LO650 spec ~$2700 i think this is by far the most complete turbo upgrade, if you read through the list of things that they modify. i know you are on a budget, so maybe for future consideration.

And this is just my opinion, but i would probably not modify my wastegates with 034 if youre not going to rebuild your turbos. You'll be putting a lot more stress by keeping them in boost longer and create more heat.