Nice thing about having a Snapon color video inspection monitor gives the ability to inspect all of the cylinders, pistons, & valves for wear & damage.
Nice thing about having a Snapon color video inspection monitor gives the ability to inspect all of the cylinders, pistons, & valves for wear & damage.
2003 White RS6 2013 Midnight Blue S5
2013 Daytona RS5 2x944 Turbo's 1974 911 w/'91 3.6ltr motor
Roy, WA
Yeah, yeah, yeah. 7-11 cheap stuff is not up to par for the RS6.
This was my RS6 #2 car. Lasted 3 days and during my trip home I quickly realized it had a bad tune. Later realized the worst that it was GIAC and by then it was too late to save the engine. Previous owner helped (who thought the car was stock) but I made the car right and sold it Kyle and he is happy as a kid in a candy store.
Long term members can remember how much I bashed GIAC back in the day for crappy tunes. How ironic I end up with a GIAC car and sure enough the high EGT melted the exhaust valves.
Requested O2 voltage under wot running 15psi was .760v. You can do the math from there and figure out why the exhaust valve melted.
Those friggin GIAC idiots should be shot.
I posted my GIAC data logs a few months ago and Pat was impressed with what he saw......so I would have to disagree with your statements.
http://www.rs6.com/showthread.php/25...a-logged-today
91' NSX Turbo 700whp/550tq
03' RS6 550ish bhp/tq
09' R8 :-)
When I bought my RS6 recently I was told it had a Unitronic tune. What is the easiest way to verify which tune the car has (if any)? Is the Unitronic tune any good? I haven't seen any mention of it in this thread.
The moral to the story here is this..
These cars are going on 10yrs old and mileage all over the place. Better buy a Ross-tech cable and get used to running data logs. Also get used to understanding what those data logs are telling you or find someone to pay that knows. You can take a marginal or poor tune and put a bandaid on it to get by(takes 15 min) or a known box tune that has performed for dozens of owners. Either way you better data log the results and make sure things are running as they should.
Requested O2 voltage of .760v at wot and 15psi of boost is purely a base map issue of the Giac chip dated 12/2004 noted above. Pat as n1 noted above was scratching his head about that data log because he had personally worked on a Giac chipped car for years trying to get the owner to swap out the tune. It was lean and it was slow.
So.....to muck this up, I've now logged two Revo cars, one in the .80 range (me), other in the ideal .85 range. I've dyno'd at a perfect 12.5:1 afr under 16psi on wideband.
My point being, a few experienced tuners I've talked with have said our o2/lambdas are minimally accurate, as anything above .5 is rich. Sounds like ghost hunting almost?
So, tune by egt's right, certainly will let you know if you're cooking the engine. If i stay under 900c all is good!
Ace/Edge TC - Tozo Trans - MTM TCU - REVO/ME7 tune - Wagner IC's w/ Venair Hoses - Aux Radiator delete - Hotchkis Sways - Hawk HPS Pads - Koni Sport Struts - Scroll KO4 Turbos - Devil's Own WM - 421whp/452wtq on Mustang Dyno - http://www.audirssix.com
Ace/Edge TC - Tozo Trans - MTM TCU - REVO/ME7 tune - Wagner IC's w/ Venair Hoses - Aux Radiator delete - Hotchkis Sways - Hawk HPS Pads - Koni Sport Struts - Scroll KO4 Turbos - Devil's Own WM - 421whp/452wtq on Mustang Dyno - http://www.audirssix.com
I think you have done the proper amount of leg work to give a real world answer.
At the lower O2 voltages.... .80v and below you would get the bucking feeling and extreme high EGT values. But by simply altering your fuel table values and running O2 volgages at or near .85v those bucks went away and EGT dropped right down. It seems to me these O2 sensors do a very good job of delivering an accurate reading.
Only way to get the real wide band O2 reading is to place a bung just after the turbo. Kinda hard to do with our cars. Having the sensor in the tail pipe tip ok but not the best spot.
Ace/Edge TC - Tozo Trans - MTM TCU - REVO/ME7 tune - Wagner IC's w/ Venair Hoses - Aux Radiator delete - Hotchkis Sways - Hawk HPS Pads - Koni Sport Struts - Scroll KO4 Turbos - Devil's Own WM - 421whp/452wtq on Mustang Dyno - http://www.audirssix.com
Thanks for the tips guys. Yes, I have a genuine Ross Tech cable, a laptop, and the VCDS software. I have done a lot of data logging with my previous A6, so it should be pretty straight forward for me. Ill do some more reading on here and figure out the exact procedure for getting the data.
Thanks!
To answer the OP's question and not to toot my own horn, but after testing and data logging a bunch of competitor's tunes for the RS6, I think my own tune is the best. I've been out of the loop for a while but I think both of my RS6 records still stand:
Quickest & Fastest RS6 with a tune only (over 200K miles too!)
Quickest & Fastest RS6 in the country (tune/no cats)
This thread makes me happy that I am updating my tune.
2003 Daytona/Silver RS6
My tune has not been altered in any way. AWE flashed it and did Tip chip and diverters valves at the same time. The other mods are Apikol intake/gutted DPs/Milltek non resonated exhaust. My only gripe is that since All cats were removed, I have CEL that needs to be coded out. If anyone can help with that please let me know. I am not a GIAC fanboy by any means, but rather too cheap to throw $2k out the window for a new tune.
91' NSX Turbo 700whp/550tq
03' RS6 550ish bhp/tq
09' R8 :-)
Not a problem. I'm glad your car is running well and fueling is running at a nice level. As you noticed by my pics AWE also installed those Giac chips way back in 04. I can only summarize that Giac fixed the tune at some point or AWE learned to adapt the fueling table after the fact. As for your O2 coding and CEL....best to call Giac and ask for help. They have the code locked on your ECU and no other tuner can open that door.