Could that have anything to do with it?
no CEL, car runs just fine, drove for more than 20 miles.
The only thing that has changes is the weather, it got warmer.
Also, having the dimmer control warning light, car was on ramps the whole time, nobody touched the actual sensor.
Last edited by audiprotn; April 15th, 2013 at 04:25.
"Dimmer control warning light"? What the heck is that?
Your exhaust doesn't get louder with a new timing belt.
Avus Silver RS6 - Viper Stage 2 ECU/TCU - Water/Meth Injection - Frozen Rotors - Hbars - clear corners - Hella smoked tails - gutted precats
According to Audi, it's that sensor located by the left control arm, dynamic headlight dimmer control.
I'm worried about my timing, since it could cause the exhaust to become louder.
But car runs fine, I would assume there would be a CEL if something was wrong?
The sensor you are referring to is the Headlight level sensor, known in ETKA as the "Self leveling suspension sensor". One on the right front Control Arm and one on the rear right Control Arm. Is it the exhaust you are hearing or a louder intake sound?
2003 White RS6 2013 Midnight Blue S5
2013 Daytona RS5 2x944 Turbo's 1974 911 w/'91 3.6ltr motor
Roy, WA
Mine is left front (drivers side)...never noticed the one in the rear...
2013 Audi S8
If your timing was "off" you'd know it. The car would run like crap.
VAGCOM the car and it will tell you which headlight self-leveling sensor, front or rear, is faulty.
03 RS6 Daytona Grey - EFI Express - 01e - SRM K24 - Aquamist - 495whp/580ft-lbs
Just the exhaust.Originally Posted by hahnmgh63
That's what we figured.If your timing was "off" you'd know it. The car would run like crap.
What's the best way to bleed the coolant system?
Stopcock valve (blue) on lower right (driverside) of radiator.
10mm bleeder on upper hose left (passenger side).
03 RS6 Daytona Grey - EFI Express - 01e - SRM K24 - Aquamist - 495whp/580ft-lbs
Thank you.
I've found it easier to bleed from the heater hose going into the firewall. There is a pin-hole in the hose, and you can pull the hose off the barb a little until the hole is exposed and let the coolant come out of the pin hole steady. Just put a towel in the cowl area to catch the leaking.
This is the highest spot on the system.
Avus Silver RS6 - Viper Stage 2 ECU/TCU - Water/Meth Injection - Frozen Rotors - Hbars - clear corners - Hella smoked tails - gutted precats
Thanks
Update:
Right after the install, we drove the car without bumper (making sure everything was ok). And i got three codes:
gas temperature sensor
maf
and something with the boost
After erasing all of them, exhaust went back to normal, car runs fine.
Coolant didn't need bleeding, seems like the heat is working just fine.
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