Another 01E project coming up. RS6 Transmission and Ace TC for sale?

[ttboost]

For those that don't know, if you decide to remove your SAI system, these are the ports you need to buy or make "block off" plates for. These are on the rear of each cylinder head.

[ttboost]

For those that have never seen RS6 turbo's in their resting place....This is a very tight fit and the reason Audi has custom designed turbos for this car. Waste gate acuators are in an odd position, making it very difficult to install different turbos. I will look into doing something, but not sure I will have any success. Most people that do rebuild the RS6 K04's want NEW turbos to start with. Buying brand new turbos hardly justifies the extra 3-40hp.

[SteveKen]

For those that don't know, if you decide to remove your SAI system, these are the ports you need to buy or make "block off" plates for. These are on the rear of each cylinder head.

BTW, the ones made by 034 are well worth it. I 'ghetto fabbed' up a set for myself and they turned out well, but I definitely spent more than $35 of my time.

http://www.034motorsport.com/engine-...8-p-21816.html

Pics of mine:

[ttboost]

OK...transmission out for anyone that cares...and for those that care about weight:

RS6 engine with ECU and harness, no turbos and 1 exhaust manifold and full of oil = almost 323lbs

[ttboost]

Transmission with TC and full of fluid (no driveshaft or half shafts)= almost 145lbs

[ttboost]

Stock RS6 turbocharger = 13.4lbs each

[ttboost]

RS6 front half shaft = 12.6lbs each

[ttboost]

RS6 stock exhaust manifold = 12.1 lbs

[4everRS]

Awesome work, and pics mike. Did you go through the front or drop straight down for removal?

[4everRS]

Oops. Los like straight down. Missed that pic at first.

[ttboost]

Yeah..always out the bottom...easier and less work than pulling nose...you have to do the same work, but less disconnecting...Just put it in service position, disconnect EVERYTHING and drop it out...

[ttboost]

Another frustrating day...As I kind of knew, this car is a disappointing game of "remove all of these to get this off".

Didn't plan on doing much today on the car, but figured the pedals would be a snap...NOPE!!!

2 hours just to get the stock pedals out....then I find that I cannot just put the 3 pedal bracket in. The steering column goes between the brake and clutch pedal and you cannot get it over, so it APPEARS that I have to either disconnect the column to sneak pedals in, or remove clutch pedal from bracket, install bracket and sneak clutch pedal back up in there...done for tonight...

[ttboost]

OK..from what I can see...the hardest part of the job is done. The pedals are in!!! This joyfest was about 3 hours. This could have been a deal breaker if I knew about this...!!!! Probably a 1 to 1-1/2 hour job, in and out, now that I've done it.

[ttboost]

It turns out that the (2) pedal and (3) pedal brackets are identical. It's easier to just get a complete one, but in reality, the only difference is the clutch pedal, clutch master, spring (for pedal return), and the longer bolt & clip to hold pedal. Still haven't figured out the clutch pedal switch yet.

[SteveKen]

I hope that you installed the clutch master cylinder, fluid supply tube/grommet and and clutch/start interlock switch while you were in there. Otherwise, You might have to remove some things to get them situated. Literally, it's such a pain in back to do this stuff. I'm thinking of removing the driver's seat to do this on mine just in case I want to take a nap this time around.

[ttboost]

Yeah..all that stuff is in there. It was all on my bracket when I got it. Hose is poking out into cowl already..need to souce a resevoir now.
I still need to figure out how to wire clutch switch. Csn't seem to find an existing connector under there (no surprise there). I was actually considering taking the seat out also, but by the time I got in there...it was all the same..SUCKED!!!

[SteveKen]

Yeah..all that stuff is in there. It was all on my bracket when I got it. Hose is poking out into cowl already..need to souce a resevoir now.
I still need to figure out how to wire clutch switch. Csn't seem to find an existing connector under there (no surprise there). I was actually considering taking the seat out also, but by the time I got in there...it was all the same..SUCKED!!!

You use the starting interlock circuit for the clutch safety switch (clutch pedal down would equal the automatic being in park or neutral to start) The common systems wiring diagrams show this and aren't too hard to wire up.

A convenient place for the reverse switch to get wired up is into the driver's kick panel. I should remember the exact pins by now, but I can't seem to recall which ones.

Lastly, if you want the cruise control to disengage when you press the clutch pedal down, it has to be wired in series to one of the wht/red wires coming off the brake switch, but there are two wht/red wires going in the the brake switch (sharing one pin) and you have a 50/50 shot of wiring it into the right one. You need to put it in series with the wire that goes to the ECU, not the one that goes to the ABS. I normally probe the pin on the ecu connector and the front of the brake switch plug with an audible continuity checker and the sound goes off when I clip the right one. If you clip the wrong one, then you need to clip the other one and reattach the first one you clipped. Luckily, I'm 2 for 2 in getting the right one clipped.

Of course, if anyone can get the ECU coded perfect, this isn't needed and the clutch switch, by itself can get wired into the ECU. It's pin 39 on the S6, but I'm not even sure if the hardware exists in the RS6 ECU.

[UrS6]

Of course, if anyone can get the ECU coded perfect, this isn't needed and the clutch switch, by itself can get wired into the ECU. It's pin 39 on the S6, but I'm not even sure if the hardware exists in the RS6 ECU.

What is the latest on software? SOMEONE must be close.