Car wont even crank over......battery good!!

[na1mt]

Had time today to get coolant reservoir out of the way to get to that fuse block. It is actually a 200 amp fuse that allows power to the entire system. The entire block is rusted after inspection, once removing cover. The reason the power was intermittent was due to the fact that the power cable to the system was severely freyed and actually now broken off completely from block. I guess this is probably the best reason to make sure your drains are clear, although I must add that Audi engineering team were pretty moronic to put this where it is, given the possible circumstances of a failure.

http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f1...ps0bae09dc.jpg
http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f1...psd4f0d48e.jpg


.........tried to post so you dont have to click pics, but failed....sorry

[MaxRS6]

^ Pics...

[na1mt]

That's at least one of the pics.....lol

[MaxRS6]

That's at least one of the pics.....lol

Well- no good deed...-LOL...let's try the udder one (twice for good measure)...

[Brav]

Ugly stuff! At least you are on the road to recovery.

[speedtrapped]

Ron, get the car covered or garaged. I know u have a garage, makes some room. That damage looks like those drains have been clogged for a long time. Look on bright side, the car could of died on highway!

[na1mt]

I know......3 car garage with no cars in it....lol. That cable goes all the way across the front of car back through firewall.....gonna be a pain in the arse to replace. Since I have to remove cluster to tap into speed sensor wire as well....I will install the RNS-e at the same time that I have in the closet. And damn my cell phone takes some good pics....lol

[na1mt]

............ok replaced fuse block and cable end today. Started right up but battery light is on. It appears as if the alternator is not charging. Ran a scan and comes up with P1602-002 ......low voltage intermittent terminal 30. Could this have fried my alternator?????

[kismetcapitan]

Hope it can get sorted quickly; my alternator died this summer, and a fresh rebuild with labor cost less than $200.

I had an electrical incident with my car last week. Some half-finished construction on the road left a hidden sudden dip then a bump, which launched the left side of my car airborne and ripped the left-side battery (I have two Odyssey PC925s) from its strap. My car immediately went dead. I look in the trunk and the battery's positive terminal was touching the frame and doing its best to arc weld itself to the car. I managed to get the battery back into place and jump started the car with my spare lead-acid battery. Drove the car later for 30 minutes and all has seemed well since then.

I'm guessing that if anything got fried, I'd know it? There's no way my ECU flashes got erased? The only thing I've noticed is the traction control light flashing on full-throttle launches, but that could also be cooler weather making more power/reducing tire traction (but it didn't do this last autumn)?