definitive tire, wheel, and offset thread

[Dmb408]

so effectively for our car, you'd only want to run adapters if you are looking at a 9.5 wheel probably right

[Other_Erik]

so effectively for our car, you'd only want to run adapters if you are looking at a 9.5 wheel probably right

I'd still prefer adapters over wobble bolts regardless the width/offset of the wheel.

O_E

[Dmb408]

i agree with you on the shear, but ecs tuning sells them, and they are a pretty well thought out outfit...i mean i think in their demo video they are putting them on an R32...

[2000c43]

RS6 with factory 18" wheels (recently powder coated gunmetal) with 10mm ECS Tuning spacers all the way around.

[s8prtotype]

Keeping it clean and mean! love it!

[lswing]

RS6 with factory 18" wheels (recently powder coated gunmetal) with 10mm ECS Tuning spacers all the way around.

Very nice...I really like our stock rims, would have been sweet to have a 19" option.

[Other_Erik]

RS6 with factory 18" wheels (recently powder coated gunmetal) with 10mm ECS Tuning spacers all the way around.

Very nice! Very reminiscent of my winter wheel setup - stock 18's painted meteor gray (damn near matte black / eggshell finish plus a bit of metallic gray flake) on Blizzaks. I've always been tempted to throw the rear wheels out just a bit further, but I know what'd happen if I did - first time going over a speed bump scrapey scrapey tire to fender lip contact. Maybe combine some 20mm spacers in the rear with spring blockers to keep the car from being able to settle that low?

So - not that 10mm is _that_ big a difference, but did you get longer lug bolts to compensate?

Any rubbing in the front while turning lock-to-lock?

O_E

[kruat]

I put 12mm on the rear, but none on the front at the moment. 12mm was the smallest spacers I had laying around. I'll probably end up putting a 8mm on the front as well.

[2000c43]

Thanks s8prtotype and lswing. Other_Eric...I purchased the 10mm spacer kits from ECS with the longer wheel bolts included. I went with the 10mm (after trying some smaller sizes) because the 10mm is the smallest they make that are still hubcentric. I have no problems on the rear at all. On the front, if you go over a bump in the road at speed, you hear a brief rub of the tire on the plastic liner. There is no tire to fender lip contact just tire to plastic liner on compression once and a while. I think it is a function of the spacers in combination with the Koni Yellows, which lowered the car just slightly and is a bit softer on the front compression stroke. I think 10mm spacers with DRC or a stiffer aftermarket setup (even Koni Yellows set a bit stiffer) would rub very infrequently, if at all. Either way, doesn't bother me and the wheels look "just right" for me with the 10mm spacers.

The wheels needed to be refinished so I had them done in a satin finish in a color that matches the grey on the center of the factory Audi center cap. The wheels were powdercoated and the plastic center caps were painted to match. I removed the Audi 4 rings on the center caps before painting and then had the 4 rings on the center caps, front emblem and rear emblem all painted gloss black by the wheel refinisher using automobile paint. The silver trim on the car (windows, front grill surrounds, mirrors, and trunk strip) were wrapped in gloss black vinyl (so it is reversible). Very happy with how it all came together. Car looks mean and very stealthy now IMO.

[2000c43]

Thanks s8prtotype and lswing. Other_Eric...I purchased the 10mm spacer kits from ECS with the longer wheel bolts included. I went with the 10mm (after trying some smaller sizes) because the 10mm is the smallest they make that are still hubcentric. I have no problems on the rear at all. On the front, if you go over a bump in the road at speed, you hear a brief rub of the tire on the plastic liner. There is no tire to fender lip contact just tire to plastic liner on compression once and a while. I think it is a function of the spacers in combination with the Koni Yellows, which lowered the car just slightly and is a bit softer on the front compression stroke. I think 10mm spacers with DRC or a stiffer aftermarket setup (even Koni Yellows set a bit stiffer) would rub very infrequently, if at all. Either way, doesn't bother me and the wheels look "just right" for me with the 10mm spacers.

The wheels needed to be refinished so I had them done in a satin finish in a color that matches the grey on the center of the factory Audi center cap. The wheels were powdercoated and the plastic center caps were painted to match. I removed the Audi 4 rings on the center caps before painting and then had the 4 rings on the center caps, front emblem and rear emblem all painted gloss black by the wheel refinisher using automobile paint. The silver trim on the car (windows, front grill surrounds, mirrors, and trunk strip) were wrapped in gloss black vinyl (so it is reversible). Very happy with how it all came together. Car looks mean and very stealthy now IMO.

[Other_Erik]

Only on RS6.com would someone title the picture "RS6 Garage" when there's a red Ferrari hanging out in the background next bay over. She looks mean as hell and very well-finished! Very tastefully "murdered out" - just need limo tint Triple-black is a good look for these cars, and saves the embarrassment of brake dust caked all over stock wheel color.

O_E

[Dmb408]

OK. I am kind of pre-posting here but I have 18x8.5 et35 being delivered today. They will probably clear with stock 255s right, but I will want to run 5mm spacers to get at least back to stock look right? I will post with a pic and say what they are when I actually get them on the car. I'm pumped.

[Other_Erik]

OK. I am kind of pre-posting here but I have 18x8.5 et35 being delivered today. They will probably clear with stock 255s right, but I will want to run 5mm spacers to get at least back to stock look right? I will post with a pic and say what they are when I actually get them on the car. I'm pumped.

This changes the wheel placement very slightly. The inner and outer lips of the wheels will each be 1/4" further out from the wheel hub (meaning 1/4" less clearance to the strut) - If you can find 5mm spacers, that's 80% of that difference. I _think_ I've seen 8mm spacers, those would be ideal (125% of the difference, sticking the outer edge of the wheel just over a half inch further poking out, moving the inner edge of the wheel 1.7mm away from the strut compared to stock setup.

O_E

[Dmb408]

Dang I already ordered 5mm, let me see if I can get them to change to 8mm. My new heels supposedly require conical seat and not ball seat like OE. I believe our OE shank is 27mm right?! Even though somewhere in this thread someone says 28mm. Can I run 30mm? ECS tuning has conical seat in black at 30mm. Well I guess if I switch to 8mm spacers I just answered my own question, oops.

[Dmb408]

OK, changed to 8mm...I guess the benefits of the spacer companies being real backed up. So I can run/should run 30mm shank right?

[Other_Erik]

OK, changed to 8mm...I guess the benefits of the spacer companies being real backed up. So I can run/should run 30mm shank right?

Sounds perfect, don't forget to take pics for us!

O_E

[Dmb408]

I will...the minute the spacer company gets me the spacers, that day or the next I'll put them on and post up some pics. If I had my guess they try to clear out work orders before the holiday but ship too close to the holiday so I'll get them on July 6.

[Dmb408]

OK, I screwed up. Custom 8 mm spacers showed up and I zonked out and bought lugs that were too short (remembered conical and not ball for these wheels but then only added 3mm). So below I am only running centering rings. 18x8.5 et 35 forgestar's CF5 wheel ~18.5 pounds vs 31.8 pounds stock. Stock vs new, same shot. Found them on Ebay for a steal, some guy never put them on a car and they were still in boxes from a while ago.