I got "the code"

[FlyFisherAJC]

I took my car in for its 75,000 mile maintenance. I told them that I had heard 2 or 3 “clunks” in the transmission over the last 2 months shifting from1st to 2nd and from 3rd down to 2nd. Only in the mornings though and nothing huge, but also not normal.

Post the diagnostic the CS at Barrier said the code was for a valve issue inthe transmission and the only way to fixit is to replace the transmission. I do have a Fidelity warrantee, so I amcovered there.

My question to you all is what should I do? Should I upgrade the Torque Converter? Should I do the standard replacement? If I go the upgraded TC route then my warrantee is void going forward and I don't know if I want to make the car un-warrantee-able.

[Hy Octane]

I had my tranny replaced under warranty as well.. they give us rebuilt units, not new ones so you never know what you are getting or if they fixed whatever caused it to fail originally... In my case, right out of the box, there was a really hard bang/jolt/ shift from 5th to 4th and a slight hesitation from 3rd into 4th.. Techs couldnt get it to happen for them (its random) so they say its operating just fine..right.. Well, as a result I fully expect this unit to fail soon so I purposely didnt do anything to it that might interfere with my claim.. Suggest you wait until you are sure the replacement unit is good and out of 1 yr warranty first.

[SteveKen]

Have you ever considered the manual transmission route, too?

There should be a running example near you, soon.

[mik15]

have you ever changed the oil and filter? if it's only a valve, like they say, an oil change might do the trick...

[4everRS]

Im not too sure how they would diagnose this as a valve. Usually, the codes will be either TC stuck off or incorrect gear recognition. Not sure if I've seen a code specifically identifying the valve body as the problem. Problems in the valve body usually manifest themself in one of the code above.

Soooo..... what was the code?

Edit: it really doesn't matter I guess. Take the new tranny as you have fidelity. They will not likely let you put a different TC in it.

[Chung]

Sorry to hear about the code but at least you get a new TC out of it.

Have you ever considered the manual transmission route, too?

There should be a running example near you, soon.

This I would like to know more about. Who has the manual RS6 near Seattle because I want a ride.

[lswing]

He gets a new Trans out of it, way more expensive! If the stock TC is not throwing codes you should be fine. Although it would be nice to add an ACE version for more security.

[kismetcapitan]

Have you ever considered the manual transmission route, too?

There should be a running example near you, soon.

I am waiting with baited breath on this one; I can feel the power wasted away in the torque converter...

[ben916]

Sorry to hear about the code but at least you get a new TC out of it.



This I would like to know more about. Who has the manual RS6 near Seattle because I want a ride.

I drove the one in Long Beach, CA (Ricarrdo's RS6 with EPL tune) -> very nice!!!!!!!!!!!

I think that is the closest one to WA..

[905084]

[FONT=Times New Roman][SIZE=3]Post the diagnostic the CS at Barrier said the code was for a valve issue inthe transmission and the only way to fixit is to replace the transmission. I do have a Fidelity warrantee, so I amcovered there.

Take the tranny cause you have the warranty (CS guy saw that too), but this is why trans guys get a bad rap. One VB solenoid bad so it's a $6000 repair.

[repda503]

How many of you have experienced something wrong with the VB? My mechanic is saying he very rarely has seen issues with the VB and it doesn't need replacement.

[ttboost]

Stock TC ruined the transmission. If you get a new transmission, and keep the stock TC, you are just prolonging the inevitable. The torque converters are the weaker point than the transmission. If you get a new transmission, DEMAND a new TC also.

[lswing]

I've heard of many VB issues on here, and mine was not shifting well on occasion before the trans failed due to gunk building up in the VB we believe...VB is part of complete trans rebuild anyhow...and yes, do TC at the same time, easily worth it to save trans and labor in the future!

[sx3mac]

I had a VB fail on me. I believe someone makes an upgraded one out there, I found this out after I bought an OEM one was around $1800.00 from audi. I replaced it myself, pretty straight foward and easy to do if you are technically inclined.

[PixieVC]

I sold my RS6 before anything untoward happened regarding the transmission, but it definitely did not act the way it should have acted. The car was completely stock, but the trans computer would always shift in a certain program regardless of driving circumstances. Put the car into drive, and the first shift from 1st to 2nd would be perfect, at 2,100 RPM and smooth as ever. Every single subsequent shift from 1st to 2nd, no matter what we did with the car (including having the dealer reflash the computer) would happen at 3,200 RPM, regardless of how light the acceleration. If 3,200 RPM was not hit, the car would not shift. Simple as that. It was the most rigid and useless transmission ever. I had to constantly override it with the paddle shifters...

That and the fact that in stop and go traffic the thing would make a very disconcerting clunk disengaging the gear when slowing down- when releasing 2nd and going back to 1st. The thing felt like it was going to blow up at any second, and I am glad to have parted with it when I did.

That said - I wish I'd gotten a low mile pristine example rather than the 100,000 mile daily driver I picked up. I think it would have completely changed my ownership experience - I'd probably still have it if that had been the case. Oh well, c'est la vie. Live and learn.

[ben916]

I sold my RS6 before anything untoward happened regarding the transmission, but it definitely did not act the way it should have acted. The car was completely stock, but the trans computer would always shift in a certain program regardless of driving circumstances. Put the car into drive, and the first shift from 1st to 2nd would be perfect, at 2,100 RPM and smooth as ever. Every single subsequent shift from 1st to 2nd, no matter what we did with the car (including having the dealer reflash the computer) would happen at 3,200 RPM, regardless of how light the acceleration. If 3,200 RPM was not hit, the car would not shift. Simple as that. It was the most rigid and useless transmission ever. I had to constantly override it with the paddle shifters...

That and the fact that in stop and go traffic the thing would make a very disconcerting clunk disengaging the gear when slowing down- when releasing 2nd and going back to 1st. The thing felt like it was going to blow up at any second, and I am glad to have parted with it when I did.

That said - I wish I'd gotten a low mile pristine example rather than the 100,000 mile daily driver I picked up. I think it would have completely changed my ownership experience - I'd probably still have it if that had been the case. Oh well, c'est la vie. Live and learn.

Hey stranger!!!! How are the new digs in So Cal???

From the RPM's that you experienced, I bet you had, unknow to you, the MTM TCU chip to hold the RPM's

[lswing]

Dirty valve body from crap in the trans will cause those shifting symptoms. Did you change the fluid, see condition of it? Yes, spendy to maintain and keep for sure!

[papadoc]

Just went through this at 125k miles. Emailed our colleague Tozo but thought the shipping etc from the west coast to Chicago might be a hassle. Decided not to go through the dealer and used my shop BR Racing, had transmission and TC rebuilt with ... get this... 3 year parts and labor guarantee on the work. Transmission and parts alone was $5k, but having 3 more worry free years sealed the deal for me. Replaced EGT sensors and O2 sensors at the same time, thanks for the heads up from all on the forum to do this at the same time. As it has been said many times here, it seems as though it is not if but when the transmission goes on our cars, but my repair costs would hardly be the down payment on anything I would consider to replace it.