Rough idle

**ben916** · February 24th, 2012, 21:36

You should ask Riccardo if you can "test run" the ER I/C's that Raven has...

**Brav** · February 24th, 2012, 21:44

Riccardo, are you listening?!

kday, that is what I did as well, I used the screw driver to push and lift, and slide it all around as to break all the seals. How many miles were on yours? My knuckles hate me.

**kday** · February 24th, 2012, 22:55

My car turned 100k in January. Even some of the hoses that had obviously been removed for the previous timing belt in 2008 were tough to get off though.

I try to always wear gloves when working on the car, saves knuckles and scrubbing. My favorites so far are the atlas tough gloves.

**Brav** · February 25th, 2012, 22:19

What kind of hose should I get that's readily available for all the vacuum lines?

**Brav** · February 26th, 2012, 00:31

I have uploaded a few pics of how the car sits now, ready for fuel rail pull. I will upload pics to this album here, and you guys can follow along. Wont have time to keep posint them up but they will be in the album.

http://s49.photobucket.com/albums/f2...del/Audi%20RS6

Lock carrier pulled, 2nd air system pulled, harness pulled

Maf seats ready to come out soon. This area was the worst to work on due to tight spaces and hoses being welded on to pipes for secondary air system..

Passenger side coolant lines disconnected.

Driver side mess/harness laying out of the way.

**4everRS** · February 26th, 2012, 01:19

Remember to wrap a towel around the fuel fitting when disconnecting. It Is still under some pressure.

**Brav** · February 26th, 2012, 01:36

Done

14 and 17mm to remove. How hard do I have to pull to get the injectors out with the rail? it seems I'm pulling so hard it may break.. but everything is disconnected.

**Nevermind, just takes a lot of wiggling. BRO-TIP: you don't have to pull so hard on things if you just wiggle them at the same time..

**Brav** · February 26th, 2012, 01:42

BTW I will be checking for this issue as well since I will have it apart (leak at fuel injector o-rings)

http://www.rs6.com/showthread.php/21...jector-O-rings

Fuel rail out: 2 bad plastic gaskets.. not sure what they are (not the rubber o-rings). One cracked, one chipped out. I don't know if they were like this before or somehow got messed up during removal. the rubber still had give, but harder than maybe it should be, I don't know.

Hairline crack

**ben916** · February 26th, 2012, 02:22

Did you check your office mail for any "presents" that might help you in your quest for part numbers and exploded views of components of a variety of Audi and VW vehicles?

I took the liberty of looking up:
Injectors - 077133551AA @ $241/each @ GenuineAudiparts.
Seal - 035906149A @ $2.91/each @ GenuineAudiparts. (looks like there is one on top and one on the bottom of each injector)

That crumbling plastic part - shown but not listed as a part number...

**Brav** · February 26th, 2012, 02:52

Yes, got it THANKS! I tried installing following instructions with those drivers first, but its still not allowing me to install. I think because I'm on Vista 64? Duno.

I am a bit stumped at the moment. I cant get the MAF seat ("air guide") off in order to pull the manifold. Also, there are 2 hoses still stuck hard on the secondary air with impossible clips on them. I was going to pull manifold a bit off to try and get more access. But this air guide wont move much. Any tips anyone? P3U are you listening?!

I really hope I don't need new injectors for some reason.. 2k in injectors not sounding fun!

**ben916** · February 26th, 2012, 02:59

I am on XP so not sure if that is much difference - I know win 7 is very different.

I am txting "tech support" to see if he is available to help...

**Brav** · February 26th, 2012, 03:17

Thanks. I can get the front of the manifold up and off the studs, but the rear doesnt come up high enough in order to pull it out of the guides for the MAF seat housing. Again, feels like something will break if I keep prying and pulling.

**Brav** · February 26th, 2012, 04:01

Well, was just not using enough force. got a 2 foot pry bar to push the manifold and MAF seats apart. (Thanks Pat)

BUT the manifold still wont come off because it seems 2 of the secondary air pump steel pipes are fused to the turbo manifold (I think). I have been banging them with a hammer to try and loosen, with no luck. These pipes are connected to the underside of the manifold, and route to either side of the MAF seat. 1 bolt holds them in but they are for sure seized. no movement.

the fight continues.. good thing I got a 4 pack of redbull and some trailmix. GF is hating me right now.

**JSRS6** · February 26th, 2012, 04:10

You need 32 bit to run ETKA. I tried to load it on win 7 64 running on my MacBook pro...no dice. Had to delete that virtual machine and reload with win 7 32bit ultimate.

**Brav** · February 26th, 2012, 05:49

OK lots of progress..

Got the passenger side secondary air pipe off finally by banging HARD on a 2 foot pry bar up against it at every possible angle i could get at, then I used the pry bar to put under the pipe, and leverage against the head to lift it off. finally came.. after a long time (thats what she said?). I think I am overly cautious from hurting stuff, but better safe than sorry.

Here is the drivers side. also hit with mallet and pry bar, then used pry bar like his to finally pop it off.

I put a rubber handled tool under the front of the throttle body/manifold to prop the front off of the studs while i worked to free the rear of the manifold up. there are 2 studs on each side (insted of bolts) on the heads. There were also 2 hoses I had zero access to the clamps, until I actually pulled the head. They were all around the MAF area.

here is a shot from passenger side, peering under the manifold towards the firewall. Manifold wouldnt come up far because of this. this was one that was connecting this sensor/valve just above the MAF. it faced down, so impossible to get to from above. have to remove the upper hose/clamp from the two seen here.

Another hard-to-get clamp causing problems. different angle from front of car.

With the manifold now easily movable, I had to finally disconnect one hose from the secondary air hard pipe going into the MAF seat... the hose as too tight a fit below all of the harness/firewall area and i had to pull it up to get access to the clamp. VOILA! finally came off.

uh.. where's my suction jet flux capacitor pump???

The (missing) primary offender..

belly of manifold, rest of the SJP hiding in shame.

I was curious so I peeked into the manifold trough the TB (note, next 3 pics are "upside down")

lastly, a shot of my intake valves. They all roughly looked like this when I peeked in. look ok?

I have the SJP here, but since I have torn through so many one-time clamps, I will have to now go buy a bunch so I can finish up. All of the vac lines I have seen udnerneath so far look in good shape. I don't see a need to replace.. What about these green check-valves and such in here? should I replace? Should I somehow pressure test all of the vac lines under here? Any suggestions how?

I'm going to pull the IC's and let them soak and call it a night.

**SzymekCRX** · February 26th, 2012, 07:12

Good job, nice pics ! Glad You found out what the problem is

**kday** · February 26th, 2012, 14:54

Awesome. Thanks for posting the pictures. That has got to be the most complicated intake manifold removal ever! That jet pump didn't leave much ambiguity.

What a pain in the ass the SAI system is.

Make sure you get the hose clamps that are smooth inside. If you need to order them, autohausaz has a good selection and unlike me and my fellow east-coasters you won't have to wait a week for them to arrive.

**hahnmgh63** · February 26th, 2012, 14:59

If you need a new one, this is the cheapest price I could find. Remember to search for the Bosch part # of 0280 156 167 rather than the Audi part # and you will find better prices. Summit racing of all places. Also found some on Ebay for about the same price.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BCH-0280156167/

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