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Thread: Rough idle

  1. #37
    Registered User Brav's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kday View Post
    Well, the list of "while you're in there" items is potentially very long, since you have to put the front into service position, which is of course step #1 in a lot of procedures, including the timing belt/water pump/thermostat.

    It would be a great time to replace the spark plugs if they've got some miles on them.

    The Bentley says the engine has to come out to get the passenger side valve cover off. If it was me I'd skip the valve covers unless they were obviously leaking.
    I should have mentioned, I just did T-belt/thermo/waterpump/steering pump and spark plugs 12 months ago, so all that is good I assume.

    Valve covers are ok, but I have a noisy cam adjuster. Seems to operate ok.

    I have heard of the issue on passenger side valve cover. Some have gotten it out with a bit of bending. Fortunately (?) my Driver side is the side making the noise. I think..
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  2. #38
    Registered User kday's Avatar
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    Has anyone actually had vacuum hoses themselves fail on their RS6? My experience with the rubber Audi hoses is that they last a long time, at least on the previous generation C cars. It's the plastic bits that go.

  3. #39
    Registered User 4everRS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kday View Post
    Has anyone actually had vacuum hoses themselves fail on their RS6? My experience with the rubber Audi hoses is that they last a long time, at least on the previous generation C cars. It's the plastic bits that go.
    You mean the ones wrapped in a cloth material right? They are shit. I had to replace mine with silicon due to cracking.
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  4. #40
    Registered User kday's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 4everRS View Post
    You mean the ones wrapped in a cloth material right? They are shit. I had to replace mine with silicon due to cracking.
    Those are what I meant, yeah. Maybe they started using crappy ones in the C5?

    I wouldn't use silicone, personally...

  5. #41
    Registered User 4everRS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kday View Post
    Those are what I meant, yeah. Maybe they started using crappy ones in the C5?

    I wouldn't use silicone, personally...
    Huh. Interesting. I've only heard bad things about the stock rubber lines. And only good for the silicon. This is somewhat of a known issue with the vac lines. A lot of euro parts companies sell them as kits or make-your-own.

    Is there a reason not to use the silicon? I've replaced all my lines with it quite a while back, and last I checked, they seemed like they were still brand new.
    Avus Silver RS6 - Viper Stage 2 ECU/TCU - Water/Meth Injection - Frozen Rotors - Hbars - clear corners - Hella smoked tails - gutted precats

  6. #42
    Registered User kday's Avatar
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    I don't have any hard data on pros or cons for silicone. I think it's telling that OEMs don't use it though. I don't think it has the same abrasion resistance, and can be too slippery. My understanding is the main reason that silicone is used for large turbo hoses is because it's relatively easy to form into custom shapes, not because it is inherently better. That doesn't apply to small diameter straight hose of course. Though I do wonder if silicone has enough structural integrity to not collapse under vacuum.

    FWIW I have had silicone turbo hoses fail. (Link to large pic: http://www.boost-instruments.com/gle...7/DSCN1164.jpg ) All hoses can fail of course, my only point is that silicone is not necessarily superior in every way.

  7. #43
    Registered User ben916's Avatar
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    There was a rash of like 5-7 cars in early 2010 that, all at once around the county, there were vacuum leaks....
    It was nutty...
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  8. #44
    Registered User hahnmgh63's Avatar
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    I too replaced all of my vacuum hoses with Silicone a couple of years ago as I had one of the vacuum hoses going to the (now removed) SAI valve at the back of the ening crumble in my hands. I do agree that in order to use Silicone vacuum hoses you should get the thicker walled Silicone as thin walled Silicone may collapse somewhat under Vacuum.
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  9. #45
    Registered User Brav's Avatar
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    OK. I'm balls deep into this thing,and I cant for the life of me figure out how to get the one time use hose clamps off the secondary air lines by the firewall. I have big snips, but they wont go through, and some of the angles are ridiculous! Is there a special tool for this? its 10% of the details of this job taking 65% of the time.
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  10. #46
    Registered User Brav's Avatar
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    really starting to despise the idiot who put this car together. clamps facing firewall, cant get access to release them. /rant
    03 RS6 | Daytona Gray on black | KW V3 | Rotiform 19x10 Wheels | REVO ECU | MTM TCU | 170k miles and counting..
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  11. #47
    Registered User ttboost's Avatar
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    That's what happens when you work on the engine OUT of the car....can't see what will be accessible once the engine is back IN the car...
    2013 Audi S8

  12. #48
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    I know that the guys pulling my intake were using one of these, I told myself I was going to order one then and your frustration reminded me:

    http://www.amazon.com/OTC-4525-Cable.../dp/B000F5JM0O

    Hopefully you got it or at least can get out today and find something like this locally
    -Greg
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  13. #49
    Registered User ttboost's Avatar
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    Yeah..pretty handy tool...probably get one at your local auto parts store or NAPA...
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  14. #50
    Registered User kday's Avatar
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    Are you sure you need to undo the one-time-use clamps? At least going in from the front there seemed to be some logic to it, with the clamps that you commonly need to undo being the spring kind.

    The technique I used was to put a small flat-blade screwdriver under the tip of the clamp, enough to pry the 'female' end of the metal up over the first hook. Then grab with sturdy needle-nose pliers and twist.

  15. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by kday View Post
    Has anyone actually had vacuum hoses themselves fail on their RS6? My experience with the rubber Audi hoses is that they last a long time, at least on the previous generation C cars. It's the plastic bits that go.
    I've had the silicone wastegate hose fail at the area where it's crimped onto the hard line.

    I'm guessing I'll be replacing the jet pump once I get the opportunity and see if it correlates to the amount of oil getting sucked into the pressure lines.

    Also, I have an assortment of oetiker clamps bought from McMaster Carr. They're fairly cheap and come in bags of 30-50 depending on size. The hardest part, however, dependion on access, is getting a set of strong wire cutters on them to get them removed without damaging the hose.
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  16. #52
    Registered User Brav's Avatar
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    Well, finally got to the point of getting all of the secondary air pump crap off, and the harness (easy). Its ready for me to pull the fuel rail and then manifold.. should be easy, but after working on it from 4 to 11:30 last night, I was done.

    I spent WAY too much time on the hose-to-metal-pipe connections. I should have thought of the screwdriver trick. these hoses were the biggest problem for me. 150k miles, probably never touched. What a nightmare. I was pulling and twisting and prodding them so much I thought my arms would come out of the socket. In the end, it required two people. Of course, this is after I got the clamps off..

    The bumper was easy, lock carrier was somewhat easy, few little things to figure out. I should have had 2-3 buckets for coolant, not 1... I created a small lake once I unplugged the top hose and the rest of the coolant came out.

    The Y-pipe had a very light amount of oil in it. The air hoses (pancake vavles?) at the front on either side of the manifold had light oil residue. Nothing was high. No drips anywhere.. I suppose I should pull the ICs at this point and fix the nasty leak on drivers side, and small one on passenger.

    Hopefully I get get it all wrapped up by tomorrow. I am past the most frustrating part (I hope). The good news is, I won't have to do this for another 150k miles!
    03 RS6 | Daytona Gray on black | KW V3 | Rotiform 19x10 Wheels | REVO ECU | MTM TCU | 170k miles and counting..
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  17. #53
    Registered User Brav's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kday View Post
    Are you sure you need to undo the one-time-use clamps?
    I was just following the tech guides step by step.. to remove the lines going to the secondary air lines just above the MAF seats, you have to remove the one time clips. There are many on top of the manifold that need to come off, as well as the line going to the vacuum reservoir. All were one-timers on mine..

    I think I am going to replace them with the generic style worm-gear clamps as found throughout the rest of my car.
    03 RS6 | Daytona Gray on black | KW V3 | Rotiform 19x10 Wheels | REVO ECU | MTM TCU | 170k miles and counting..
    "Some people play hard to get... I play hard to want."

  18. #54
    Registered User kday's Avatar
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    It's worthwhile fixing the ICs while you have the front end off. My car feels faster now.

    I had a hard time getting some of the cooling hoses apart too. It used the same little screwdriver that I used to unclip the clamps to break the seal between the rubber and the metal -- it helped quite a bit.

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