Front CV Boot or Axel Replacement

**Tom Sawyer** · February 4th, 2012 19:12

I did the front brakes + Rotors (Audi Rotors, EBC Yellows, an easy brake job for sure!) Thursday and in the process of inspecting everything while the tires were off, I discovered a torn outer CV boot on the drivers side. From what I have read searching the threads, it sounds like it might be easier to just replace the whole front axle as one piece, and not that expensive parts wise.

Sorry if I've missed it in the search, but are there any 'how-to' posts on this task? There was definitely some grease that had been thrown out, but the joint is making no noise and still has grease in it (planning on stuffing some more in and patching the boot so I can get by for a few weeks).

Greatly appreciate any thoughts and advice on this... I'm all for picking up a whole new axle with both joints/boots if the price is within reason.

I did find this write-up on audizine, I'm guessing pretty much the same procedure:

AZ Article

If I'm going to go for the whole axle assembly I would prefer to go OE Audi part or even a better built aftermarket assembly (if that even exists). I did find this but the price seems too low:

RS6 Axle/CV

Quick update: Called the local Audi dealer and got a price on OEM (reman) part: 4B3 407 451 AX - $537.00. Found it online with a very quick search for $384.00.

**mdegracia** · February 4th, 2012 21:02

As long as the joint is good just replace the boot. I bought a boot kit from Europaparts and it was GKN (oem grade) and invluded everything for the change out. I think it was $30...

**Tom Sawyer** · February 4th, 2012 21:39

Originally Posted by mdegracia

As long as the joint is good just replace the boot. I bought a boot kit from Europaparts and it was GKN (oem grade) and invluded everything for the change out. I think it was $30...

That makes sense... how was the job just replacing the boot?

I'm not sure what the lifespan of a CV joint is under normal circumstances but since this has been split for long enough to throw out quite a bit of grease, I'm wondering if the safer bet would be to just replace. Car has just under 72K on the clock.

**Elevens** · February 4th, 2012 22:11

Check Raxles.com. I believe I got both sides for less that $500.00 shipped. They use only quality German OEM joints and supply you with the necessary tools to remove the axles and return shipping of the Cores. Excellent people to deal with....................

**mdegracia** · February 4th, 2012 22:47

Pretty easy removal. Unbolt at rotor hub. Remove aluminum shield at transmission. Disconnect axle at transmission hubs (10 or 12mm triple square). Disconnect rear lower control arm. Remove axle.

Sounds like you may want to replace the joint if the boot has been torn for awhile. You can buy just the joint too...

**ben916** · February 5th, 2012 00:12

Originally Posted by Elevens

Check Raxles.com. I believe I got both sides for less that $500.00 shipped. They use only quality German OEM joints and supply you with the necessary tools to remove the axles and return shipping of the Cores. Excellent people to deal with....................

^^^This^^^

**Tom Sawyer** · February 5th, 2012 00:58

Guys, thanks for the tip on Raxles.com; reading through their info I like what I'm seeing. At ~$500 I may just go ahead and replace both sides at once.

**kday** · February 5th, 2012 02:53

FWIW the joints can last a long time even with a torn boot. Unless it was making noise I would just replace the boot. It's pretty easy. The outer boot can be done with the axle still attached to the transmission. In either case, make sure you replace the axle bolt, it's one time use. The boot kits usually come with a new bolt.

**TozoM8** · February 5th, 2012 03:51

http://www.audipages.com/Tech_Articl...toverhaul.html

http://www.audipages.com/Tech_Articl...placement.html

**Bigglezworth** · February 6th, 2012 04:41

As said above, if the joint isn't clicking, just replace the boot. Boot kits come with new boot, grease, clamps, and new axle bolt. You can knock the outer joint off the axle wiithout having to unbolt the inner joint from the tranny. Some say pop the bottom joint, but I prefer to do the top joints. Takes a nominal 1.5 hours if you don't rush things. Ensure you clean the joint thoroughly and don't mix the greases if at all possible.

**nistah** · February 8th, 2012 19:44

Just reviewing a receipt from a drivers side CV Boot I had replaced was charged 4 hours labor for the the service aspect of this repair, I noticed someone earlier in the thread said 1.5 hours taking your time & wanted to check with the forum to determine if the 4 hours I was charged is reasonable . Thanks,

**kday** · February 8th, 2012 20:11

I have no professional experience as a mechanic and it took me under 2 hours to do both the inner and outer boot the first time I ever did it. This was on a C4 A6, which is probably simpler (there is enough room to remove the axle without undoing the suspension) but it's the same basic idea. As to whether it's reasonable, I don't know. Book time is a rate schedule, not necessarily the amount of time it takes.

**Bigglezworth** · February 8th, 2012 21:38

Assuming it's the outside boot, 4 hrs is absurd. Plain and simple. To give you an idea of what is involved, it's literaly this simple.

With weight of car on wheel, crack/loosen bolt holding end of drive axle tight in hub assembly
Put car on hoist/jack stand
Remove 5 lugs holding wheel on
Remove compression nut and bolt for steering tie rod, split apart steering arm, pop out tie rod
Remove compression nut and bolt for top pair of ball joints, remove nuts off ball joints, split apart top of steering arm assembly to enable both upper control arms to pop out.
Pull steering arm assembly outwards and to one side while pushing the end of the axle inwards.

If removing entire axle assembly and replacing with another, then you need to remove the half dozen triple head bolts fastening the inner boot housing to the output drive shaft of the tranny.
Reassembly in opposite order with appropriate torque settings.

If replacing 'just the outer boot', then you have a few more steps:
Cut off old rubber boot and steep bands/clamps
Wipe up excess grease with rag/paper towel
Take hammer and punch and drive outer joint off end of drive axle (this sounds easy, but sometimes this is the hardest part)
Clean joint in parts washer with mineral spirits and blow/air dry
Put new boot on end of axle and new C-clip on end of axle. Clamp small end of boot to axle shaft
Fill joint and boot with grease.
Push joint back on end of drive axle until fully seated past retaining clip)
Slip boot over joint housing and clamp.
Work grease into joint by wobbling/rotating joint a few dozen times.
Reassemble per above.

I have seen lots of people use the large bolt that holds the axle shaft in to the hub to 'pull' the joint off the shaft, but I personally have never had success doing it that way.

Anyway, I've done the boot repair and axle swap both on different RS6's and each were under 1.5 hours with slight advantage to the swap of the entire assembly. If you were replacing an inner boot, it would be similar times even though the joint comes apart easier. If you were replacing both boots, I would question why they wouldn't have simply swapped the entire assembly for a rebuilt unit.

**kday** · February 8th, 2012 21:54

So there isn't enough room to get the axle spline out of the hub without undoing the tie rod and ball joint? Bummer. There's just barely enough room on the C4 to leave everything in place.

I replaced both boots instead of the whole axle because it's considerably cheaper, parts-wise. Maybe not if you're paying for labor.

**ben916** · February 9th, 2012 02:01

Originally Posted by kday

So there isn't enough room to get the axle spline out of the hub without undoing the tie rod and ball joint? Bummer. There's just barely enough room on the C4 to leave everything in place.

I replaced both boots instead of the whole axle because it's considerably cheaper, parts-wise. Maybe not if you're paying for labor.

I haven't had the lovely experience of doing this... yet.
I am not questioning or disgracing anyone, but there are several threads on AZ with C5 A6 that by turning the wheel, there is just barely enough room to remove the axle...
I will see if I can locate the threads and post here.
Also am unsure of the difference between C5 A6 and C5 RS6 axle lengths - this might be the key..

**Tom Sawyer** · February 11th, 2012 12:06

Well many thanks to everyone, I ended up going with both sides, replaced with Raxles. As many many have said, Raxles is THE way to go, amazing company to deal with and as previously mentioned they even send you the two 'special tools' needed to do the job. As far as doing the job, I ended up having it done at a very reputable local Audi/VW shop, he charged me $200 to do both sides which was well worth saving my time, back etc. The passenger side, while still intact, would have gone probably within the next 10 or 15k. The mechanic at the shop even mentioned how awesome raxles are, his comment was "well you'll never have to worry about cv axles again."

I'm sure this won't surprise anyone, but upper control arm bushings are shot, so that's scheduled for Wednesday.

**4everRS** · February 11th, 2012 14:30

Thanks for the update Tom.

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