Wow, this is a big job. I started yesterday and only now do I have the front clip in "service position", ready to start dismantling the front of the engine. I've been following the Bentley step by step. Any other car and I'd be done by now. (Granted, I only spent a few hours each day, but still.)
I am a little disappointed that this is all the room you get in service position -- is this right?
Remove the upper rad hose from radiator and will move much further
I removed both radiator hoses already. (I disconnected the upper hose at the junction with the clamp further in.) It guess it's hung up on something. Will look again. Thanks.
Oh, another question: are there really two drains for coolant from the block, like the Bentley says? I could only find one, on the left side.
Did you unplug your headlights and turn signals?
Avus RS 6, RNS-E/BT/RVC, Eurocharged/MTM, SuperSports, PSS9/Hotchkis, SS Lines/EBC Reds, FMU/BMC, Sportec vents, 007's, 9500ci, Black Optics/Headlights/Trim/Rims, CC; coming soon: stage 3 snow meth
good luck, a nice DIY would be very, very helpful for all the others who didn't dare to do it by themselves like my self
Ex.: 2004 Audi RS6 C5 ABT, Milltek non-resonated, 19" RS4 B7 rims, RNS-E - SOLD
2004 AUdi RS6 C5, SE exhaust, RNS-E, 19' original rims - SOLD
Now :2009 Audi RS6 C6 - stock yet pretty fast
Either on here or on Quattroworld "Brazil" did a pretty nice writeup on the Timing Belt DIY about 2 years ago.
2003 White RS6 2013 Midnight Blue S5
2013 Daytona RS5 2x944 Turbo's 1974 911 w/'91 3.6ltr motor
Roy, WA
Ah, much better:
It was that silly little hose from the big upper radiator hose that I missed somehow. Once that was out of the way, and the headlights disconnected, it's become much more spacious.
I will go look for the DIY writeup, thanks.
BRAVE man!
SOLD - 03 RS6 Avus (905355)
Current - 03 Toyota Tacoma 4x4 double cab - the YETI, lifted, winched, snorkeled, lockered, skidded, geared
Nice clear pic, great to see the internals, good luck with the work!
Ace/Edge TC - Tozo Trans - MTM TCU - REVO/ME7 tune - Wagner IC's w/ Venair Hoses - Aux Radiator delete - Hotchkis Sways - Hawk HPS Pads - Koni Sport Struts - Scroll KO4 Turbos - Devil's Own WM - 421whp/452wtq on Mustang Dyno - http://www.audirssix.com
Ok, done for the night. I got the lock pin threaded into the crank, the cam bar installed, and the crank pulley removed.
That black thing threaded into the block is the crank lock pin. (Incidentally this is the same crank lock pin used as far back as the 12 valve V6. I already had one, which was nice.) To get it in you have to drop the sway bar and pull the left side turbo outlet hose.
The hose. This is going to be fun to put back in...
Cam bar:
Finally, a tip. If you are going to replace the tensioner/dampener, you don't need to buy the pin tool, since it comes with one. I don't know what I'm going to do with this extra $12 piece of bent wire.
kday, did You have to drain the ATF fluid (disconnect trans radiator) and detach the AC radiator ?
Are you planning on doing the T-stat while you are there?
metal or plastic impeller on water pump?
SOLD - 03 RS6 Avus (905355)
Current - 03 Toyota Tacoma 4x4 double cab - the YETI, lifted, winched, snorkeled, lockered, skidded, geared
Nope. The trans cooler, oil cooler, and AC condenser are still connected. That's the beauty of "service position", though it takes a lot more effort to get there on this car than others.Originally Posted by SzymekCRX
The T-stat is actually the main reason I'm doing the belt now. The belt was done 30K miles ago. My thermostat has been sticking open, leading to cool running on the highway and intermittent ECU fault codes that run the fans on max all the time.
The water pump impeller is plastic. I got it from Blau. I would prefer metal but I don't think it's a big deal.
I was going to say, the belt looked pretty good there, and for 30k certainly. Isn't that the suggested change interval anyhow?
Ace/Edge TC - Tozo Trans - MTM TCU - REVO/ME7 tune - Wagner IC's w/ Venair Hoses - Aux Radiator delete - Hotchkis Sways - Hawk HPS Pads - Koni Sport Struts - Scroll KO4 Turbos - Devil's Own WM - 421whp/452wtq on Mustang Dyno - http://www.audirssix.com
The interval is 35k or 40k depending on how you read the schedule.
I have done a few timing belts on other cars at more normal intervals (60k or 90k) and have never seen a belt that looked bad. But with interference motors who wants to take the chance? Especially on one like this that's probably worth more than the car. I think it's good to refresh the bearings in the rollers, tensioners, and water pump though. I have come across squeaky bearings and leaky water pumps in the small number of belt jobs I've done.
The weak link in the 4.2tt is not the belt. It is the small rollers on top. If you think about it....due to the small size of the roller/bearing and high speed rpms that component is exposed to....there is the weak link. I have pulled 30k roller with a squeek/rough feeling in the past. fyi
Nice work so far and good detailed pictures.
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